tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16440965067609199072024-03-17T20:04:05.794-07:00Strathcona Beekeepers' LibraryUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-15960990139648605132021-11-30T15:08:00.033-08:002021-12-25T16:25:39.486-08:00<div style="text-align: left;">
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<span style="color: #b45f06; font-size: x-large;">Basic Beekeeping</span><br /><span style="color: blue; font-size: medium;">- </span><span style="color: blue; font-size: medium; font-weight: medium;"><a href="#beekeepingbooks" style="font-weight: medium;">Beekeeping Books</a> </span></span><span style="color: blue; font-size: medium;"> </span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">- <a href="#classicbeekeepingbooks">Classic Beekeeping Books</a></span>
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- <a href="#children'sbooks">Children's Books</a><br />
- <a href="#beekeepingvideoseries">Beekeeping Video Series</a><br />
- <a href="#onlineeducation">Online Education</a><br />
- <a href="#regional">Regional</a><span style="color: red;"> </span><br />
- <a href="#beebiology">Bee Biology</a><span style="color: red;"> </span><br />
- <a href="#basicbeekeepinginformation">Basic Beekeeping Information</a><br />
- <a href="#hiveinspection">Hive Inspection</a><br />
- <a href="#splits,nucsandpackages">Splits, Nucs and Packages</a><br />
- <a href="#swarms">Swarms</a><br />
- <a href="#feeding">Feeding</a><br />
- <a href="#wintermanagement">Winter Management</a><br />
- <a href="#beehiveconstruction">Beehive Construction</a> </span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" id="beekeepingbooks">Beekeeping Books</a></span></span></span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><u><span style="font-size: x-large; font-weight: normal;">Getting Started</span></u></span></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EmMX3swslMEB6hPkqAEbKyZROekYqOQU/view" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Northern Climates</a><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EmMX3swslMEB6hPkqAEbKyZROekYqOQU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><br /></a></span>This beekeeping manual accompanies an
<a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/binc-online" target="_blank">online course from the University of Minnesota Bee Lab</a>. "Interested in becoming a beekeeper? Dr. Marla Spivak, Dr. Katie Lee
and Gary Reuter from the University of Minnesota Bee Lab will help you get
started in beekeeping. If you have no prior experience keeping bees in our
cold climate, Beekeeping in Northern Climates will teach you everything you
need to know. The course modules cover honey bee biology, management,
successful wintering of colonies, managing diseases and pests and so much
more. If your goal is to keep your bees alive and healthy year after year,
this engaging course is for you. This online class is over 12 hours of
recorded instruction divided into modules. You will be able to work through
the course material in modules entirely at your own pace and schedule. There
are optional live Q&A sessions with the Bee Squad that you can choose to
attend on the first Tuesday of each month at 6pm CT. There is also ample
opportunity to ask questions in the discussion forums. You will have access to
the materials for two years to allow you to review any module over two
beekeeping seasons. Two manuals accompany the class: Beekeeping in Northern
Climates and
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eMybX1guBdOwlEiZX882EKnNjl1YIaZG/view" target="_blank">Honey Bee Diseases and Pests</a>. The manuals can be downloaded for free either in the course itself or from
<a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/manuals" target="_blank">our manual page</a>.
If you wish to donate see our
<a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/give" target="_blank">Giving page</a>."
A worthy cause to support. <a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/binc-online" target="_blank">To register for the course</a>. The
<a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/videos" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Northern Climates video series</a>
is also very useful.
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfcJaT6itBBVkvtJJOQETzyiAMZBqGTR7Y-DHUd1cAPtZ0h96_CfxAQPVh-gd0rBseZb49hJzQlTk8Rnha5-kDlWbDB8HeBVVF8Ww_v-ifwFG69w_7Om-yo1ouhUx4N2HRzKO-vWW_bw/s1600/Capture1111.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyfcJaT6itBBVkvtJJOQETzyiAMZBqGTR7Y-DHUd1cAPtZ0h96_CfxAQPVh-gd0rBseZb49hJzQlTk8Rnha5-kDlWbDB8HeBVVF8Ww_v-ifwFG69w_7Om-yo1ouhUx4N2HRzKO-vWW_bw/s320/Capture1111.PNG" width="315" /></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTVhfeXp5UmM1dkE" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Backyard Beekeeping</span></a> </span>(James E. Tew) This book by Dr. James Tew is a good overview of
the basic steps to acquiring and management of a bee colony for the
beginner beekeeper. Some of the things that are covered are the
cost, races of honey bees, bee life cycle, hive design, equipment,
swarms, hive site, seasonal management, pesticides, diseases and
harvesting of honey and wax. "</span></span></span>Nearly anyone can keep a hive or two of honey bees. The majority of
beekeepers are hobbyists, who keep bees just for pleasure. Men, women, teens,
or young children, to some extent, can all be beekeepers. Gardeners,
retirees, professionals, teachers, physicians, construction workers, airline
pilots, and lawyers are among the types of diversified occupations enjoying
beekeeping. A sideline beekeeping hobby can earn extra income if colonies are
managed efficiently. Even if you do not have a place to put a few colonies,
most people can find a friendly farmer or landowner on whose land to place
colonies. If you enjoy biology, outdoor activities, woodworking, gardening,
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animal care, or if you are just looking for a sideline income, beekeeping will
probably interest you."
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEmhgJiJlqrz4bg1gRjgw5DKoEkPx5ilUwWoHUHI-ey7TZzC3reie5ozAqsdNE5XTi-c_kCT36lWgIPwsmAJG56TRaSGe6AavJYjCBVSlSlQZrqUn2Gxdb6517asG3lxGrAbFH3DryRwc/s1600/Capture22222.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEmhgJiJlqrz4bg1gRjgw5DKoEkPx5ilUwWoHUHI-ey7TZzC3reie5ozAqsdNE5XTi-c_kCT36lWgIPwsmAJG56TRaSGe6AavJYjCBVSlSlQZrqUn2Gxdb6517asG3lxGrAbFH3DryRwc/w295-h400/Capture22222.PNG" width="295" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaHJYU0RZRFhZWkU" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping Basics</span></a> This Penn State University publication provides a fairly
comprehensive and detailed book for the backyard beekeeper. <span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 29pt 2pt 11pt; height: 12.1pt; top: 345.8pt; width: 216.8pt;">"This manual is all about beekeeping—under</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 28pt 2pt 11pt; height: 12.1pt; top: 358.8pt; width: 218.3pt;">standing honey bee biolog<span style="width: 0.44em;">y</span>,
getting started, man</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 31pt 2pt 11pt; height: 12.1pt; top: 371.8pt; width: 214.9pt;">aging bee colonies for fun and/or pro<span style="width: 0.61em;">fi</span>t and is </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 10pt 2pt 11pt; height: 12.1pt; top: 384.8pt; width: 235.9pt;">designed to help you become a successful beekeeper. </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 82pt 11pt 11pt; height: 12.1pt; top: 397.8pt; width: 164pt;">Welcome to the world of beekeeping." It covers topics like bee
castes, beekeeping equipment, clothing, packages and nucs, apiary
location, seasonal management, diseases and pests, honey production
and processing, rendering bees wax and pollen trapping ... </span>A very good resource for the beginning beekeeper. "</span></span></span>This manual is all about beekeeping—understanding honey bee biology, getting
started, managing bee colonies for fun and/or profit—and is designed to help
you become a successful beekeeper. Welcome to the world of beekeeping."
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTdsRvkAEpn7z7S-nBEdoiaEdB41r7z1ZVVQUshaQVJtJS_Wou2lX3NjIV3x7RNj2Sq8J9qtrKE3fySX8UuWQHOxyVo4hkccdl_lCmZ7V5kEBYFygFRgH9iBE76sIuojSLIg6d4IW1Jk/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTdsRvkAEpn7z7S-nBEdoiaEdB41r7z1ZVVQUshaQVJtJS_Wou2lX3NjIV3x7RNj2Sq8J9qtrKE3fySX8UuWQHOxyVo4hkccdl_lCmZ7V5kEBYFygFRgH9iBE76sIuojSLIg6d4IW1Jk/w266-h400/Capture.PNG" width="266" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV2dsaEhOYVNZYU0/view?usp=sharing" style="font-weight: normal;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Handbook on Beekeeping</span></a>: (<b>Europe</b>) A good, complete guide to sustainable beekeeping from
the European Union Bees project. "BEES is a Transfer of Innovation
project aiming at further developing a module from the Leonardo da Vinci
ENSA project on organic and biodynamic agriculture education. The main
objective of the project is to create completely updated teaching
materials on bee behaviours and relevant importance as indicators of
agriculture sustainability. Biodiversity is directly linked to this
approach. The main targets of the handbook are farmers' associations,
environmental associations, agriculture professional schools,
agriculture and veterinary medicine universities, bee keepers
associations, policy makers, institutions at European, national and
local level, elementary and secondary schools."</span></span></span>
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<b>Australian</b> government. It covers everything from bee castes
and life-cycle to seasonal management, diseases and pests. "This
book provides basic information to assist beginner and sideline
beekeepers. It draws on the knowledge and experience of apiculture
scientists, various state and territory apiary inspectors and apiary
officers, and most importantly, the many beekeepers who enjoy keeping
bees." It covers most everything except treatment of varroa mites
which are not present in Australia.</span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/17knLMnAdRE8L7BXS69e_vEYNt9tPSIUP/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR BEE HEALTH</span></a> </span></span>
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A Guide for Beekeepers by the
<a href="https://honeybeehealthcoalition.org/hivehealthbmps/" target="_blank">Honey Bee Health Coalition</a>
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Every beekeeper should seek to have hives that are healthy and
productive. Today, the many threats to honey bee health — including
parasites, pests, disease, pesticides, and inadequate nutrition —
make achieving this goal a major challenge. Successful beekeeping
means closely monitoring bee health and taking proactive steps to
protect them.
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Over the years, a wide range of public and
private organizations have developed Best Management Practices
(BMPs) for the honey bee industry. Important work has been done by
state governments, crop and grower organizations, universities
(particularly extension services), state beekeeping organizations
and other stakeholders. This guide collects BMPs from many sources
into one document to make it easy for beekeepers to find practical
information that they can use. Experts from within and outside the
Honey Bee Health Coalition, including entomologists, small-scale and
commercial beekeepers, apiary inspectors and commercial bee
suppliers, have reviewed the BMPs in this guide to make sure that
they are accurate and consistent with the latest research findings.
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<div>
Whether you are just starting out as a beekeeper or have years of
experience, you’ll find that this guide offers valuable BMPs on many
topics, including:
</div>
<div>Safety</div>
<div>Apiary and hive set up and maintenance</div>
<div>Pesticide exposure</div>
<div>Treatment of parasites and bee diseases</div>
<div>Queen health, bee breeding and stock selection</div>
<div>Bee nutrition</div></span></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sSTWqX90gGT3cIjdN7xt1pl3ieib043V/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Managing Alternative Pollinators</a></span>
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<div>
<span style="color: black;"><div>Written by Eric Mader, Pollinator Outreach Coordinator,</div>
<div>The Xerces Society Pollinator Conservation Program.</div>
<div>
Marla Spivak, Professor of Entomology, University of Minnesota and
Elaine Evans, Author of Befriending Bumble Bees.
</div></span>"This book cound not have come at a better time. We
</div>
<div style="color: black;">
<div>stand at a crossroads, where honey bee losses and</div>
<div>rental rates for pollination are on the rise, research is</div>
<div>expanding our knowledge of native bees’ role in crop</div>
<div>pollination, and growers are looking for pollination</div>
<div>alternatives to improve crop security. Herein lies the</div>
<div>heart of this book: It is a technical resource that brings</div>
<div>together the latest advances in native and introduced</div>
<div>bee management with a big-picture perspective on</div>
<div>how to manage a farm for these pollinators’ greatest</div>
<div>success. In the coming years, honey bees will continue to</div>
<div>be critically important for production agriculture. To</div>
<div>improve the sustainability and security of farming in</div>
<div>the United States, however, it is important for grow-</div>
<div>ers to diversify the pollinators upon which they rely. It</div>
<div>
also might be time for beekeepers to diversify their own operations and
expand their management to native bees. This book provides the necessary
tools for growers, beekeepers, and other agricultural professionals to
do just that. Perhaps the silver lining of Colony Collapse Disorder is
its wake-up call to invest time, research, and energy into new managed
pollinators and new ways of looking at farm management for the
betterment of all pollinators. We are being asked to picture a future in
agriculture where even the most intensively managed almond orchards,
cranberry bogs, and squash fields make room for flowering plants that
complement blooming crops and have strategically placed hives of honey
bees, tubes of leafcutters, boxes of bumble bees, and natural habitat
that provides a home for wild native bees."
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QiTnPsAzwxTju-BVF_lSYXvajn7PIK3G/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Starting Beekeeping in Ireland</span></a> by Thomas Carroll</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42TAoNteBwbjHL4Nh6TgddNf4pjQSsPx4b49ndLZGjgJuociCwwbck0fHF5HLO4uMPS-DKj8okr2YV7XPCFjHI35Sy1DEKzXrwm_nkb8EDo205NPwP2KvH6j4BG4vEimNajzs5CUtvNo/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="331" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42TAoNteBwbjHL4Nh6TgddNf4pjQSsPx4b49ndLZGjgJuociCwwbck0fHF5HLO4uMPS-DKj8okr2YV7XPCFjHI35Sy1DEKzXrwm_nkb8EDo205NPwP2KvH6j4BG4vEimNajzs5CUtvNo/w255-h400/Capture.PNG" width="255" /></a>"This book is as much a guide to sources of additional information as
it is a how to beekeeping guide. There is a lot of bee related
information available and I have compiled an impressive list of</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">sources of additional information from an Irish centric
perspective. Why did I write this eBook? The need for this book
came to me when I searched for as simple and straightforward text on
how to start beekeeping in Ireland. I was restarting my
beekeeping here in 2015. I wanted a plain and straight to the
point book which was up to date and appropriate in the Irish context.
I wanted a book at a sensible price which was available in electronic
format (an eBook) which I could easily and quickly download and start
reading. I could not find or easily access a suitable
publication to assist me and therefore decided to write the book my
self to assist others who may be trying to start beekeeping... I
have spent over two years researching and writing this eBook. I hope
that you find it useful and helpful. I would be delighted to
hear from you and to get your feedback." Tom Carroll PHD,
Killenure Nursery, Ballybrittas, Co Laois. Website - <a href="http://apiconsult.com/" target="_blank">Apiconsult</a></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzN3Euw-x7guBtXQj5LD4RGwzczYLXi9NrjIkuSabgiMT6qsqs93JdNurwCi-SRVFjpc-jTjsqr4O0XlOi79qv17zhiSUOZRiFgqPULpXCTZl4tEdgfaVwwqcy7CzmXZmZ5tmSN1DzdY/s1600/Capturebc1987.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="274" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzN3Euw-x7guBtXQj5LD4RGwzczYLXi9NrjIkuSabgiMT6qsqs93JdNurwCi-SRVFjpc-jTjsqr4O0XlOi79qv17zhiSUOZRiFgqPULpXCTZl4tEdgfaVwwqcy7CzmXZmZ5tmSN1DzdY/w270-h400/Capturebc1987.JPG" width="270" /></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/13U8PLfTl3u_aaEOwWIFGJN56HXAWmFOm/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in California</span></a> "This publication describes the fundamentals of keeping
bees in California (1987) and discusses the differences between
commercial and non commercial approaches. Persons considering
keeping bees can learn through self education and experience. Classes
and short courses in beekeeping are also helpful, and many good books
and other literature are available (see References). However, no amount
of reading can substitute for actual experience with colonies. Local
beekeeping clubs often willingly share information, and many will show
beginners how to manage a colony and what to expect through the
year."</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUmViQUlsMWZPRDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Canadian Best Management Practices for Honey Bee Health</span></a>
(Agriculture and Agri-Food <b>Canada</b>) - "Best Management
Practices (BMPs) for the honey bee industry are developed by
different levels </span>and divisions of government, various organizations, institutions and
stakeholders. Content ranging from regulations for pest and
disease treatment thresholds to management of colonies during
pollination services are included. While in many cases these
recommendations are readily available, their authors are varied
and the publications are provided by diverse sources. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Some </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">recommendations will apply to the Canadian nation as a whole, while
others will only relate to </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">specific areas of the country. The BMPs discussed in this document
refer to those that pertain to honey bee health. Traceability
aspects like food safety, beekeeper safety and
environmental safety are not included within this BMP
document."</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Cyb4OrhTzrw1M4eLT7SyksAGkIJljhXsj__8rV39sQxhXy68wWBj-A3cVM7KijyMoycFdRhviRBzE-ClNvSvBlJBVsvZwGcbxu_Uvary_a4jrsp5WCMBgVZlLDJmgCdhjHhd5E-g2GE/s1600/4+H+Advanced.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Cyb4OrhTzrw1M4eLT7SyksAGkIJljhXsj__8rV39sQxhXy68wWBj-A3cVM7KijyMoycFdRhviRBzE-ClNvSvBlJBVsvZwGcbxu_Uvary_a4jrsp5WCMBgVZlLDJmgCdhjHhd5E-g2GE/w318-h400/4+H+Advanced.PNG" width="318" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYnZ0MXNNbWxwWUk" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">4 H Beekeeping Manuals</span></a> The 4-H Beekeeping Project from Purdue
University is divided into three divisions.
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcjdSM24yLXFtMU0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Division I</a>, Understanding the Honey Bee, covers
information on the basic facts of beekeeping: the types of bees, the
honey and wax they produce, the plants that attract bees, and the
equipment a beekeeper needs. In the first year, youth are not required
to have any bees, but prepare to take care of a honey bee colony of
their own. In <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldHk3TXVqUUFJZlk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Division II</a>, Working with Honey Bees, youth acquire a colony of bees and learn
how to care for their beehive throughout the year. This will include
basic beekeeping operations that result in the production of
extracted, chunk, or cut comb honey. When the youth are experienced
and knowledgeable in the basic care of a beehive, they should move on
to <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYnZ0MXNNbWxwWUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Division III</a>, Advanced Beekeeping Methods. The advanced topics include:
increasing the number of your honey bee colonies, increasing honey
production, producing special kinds of honey, learning more about the
bee societies, and how to manage honey bee diseases and parasites.
This is a good resource for beginning beekeepers of all
ages. In addition here is a
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Cr0-ck875rW3OjZpRXS5MiEeZG9ZoEW/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">4H Basic Beekeeping Manual</a>
from Malcolm Sanford (University of Florida) and from the Virginia
Cooperative Extension
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EkBaClLF5OHsNlGWcNDyvFzbpknyPhMG/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">4H Honey Bee Youth Project Book 1</a>
and
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nefx5cm7GAlihtii0WChyKslnHB2kbIi/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">2</a>
.</span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT01iam1EWm9LYlk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">4 H Beekeeping Manua</span>l</a> A good beginner beekeeper manual written by Brian Rowe of the 4
H organization that covers everything from hive components, types of
bees, first year and seasonal management, honey, wax and diseases and
pests. "Welcome to beekeeping. I hope you enjoy it as much
as I have. The bees have been good to me, and I hope they will do
the same for you." Brian Rowe.</span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHt_dAyqu86y3v5o03bVjiJv1vRXfuNMz51-GmzFPKuflGn3s7R6DYVFy9T5V6ZQG0BD1DIe8eItoidQEBRKOl44WgvOhkfk427pDGcxsgoA_Zlg8BzK01My9qw8dwhs7tFtgOqPxEaQ/s1600/Capture+%25281%2529.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHt_dAyqu86y3v5o03bVjiJv1vRXfuNMz51-GmzFPKuflGn3s7R6DYVFy9T5V6ZQG0BD1DIe8eItoidQEBRKOl44WgvOhkfk427pDGcxsgoA_Zlg8BzK01My9qw8dwhs7tFtgOqPxEaQ/w320-h307/Capture+%25281%2529.PNG" width="320" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbTFpZDBUVlp6TVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">The Basics of Beekeeping</span></a> (<b>Scotland</b>) This is a good introductory Beekeeping guide
written by M.M. Peterson on behalf of the Dunblane and Stirling
Districts Beekeepers' Association in Scotland. The topics
discussed include bee biology, beekeeping equipment, handling bees,
swarm control, diseases and pests and
harvesting. </span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOL6Sq1CBCREmt5uXJS-7Tm0WFUHTiIGFmU9ZjeYWXE1yH50FU3EBE8S4TE5FLFMIB_WPdD80NO5GaU660RrcTU9OJDF6gcB6F9hC0qO65anJyogp11Yr9BR-fqL4xE6o8xV6lpXsW8cY/s1600/At+the+hive+entrance.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOL6Sq1CBCREmt5uXJS-7Tm0WFUHTiIGFmU9ZjeYWXE1yH50FU3EBE8S4TE5FLFMIB_WPdD80NO5GaU660RrcTU9OJDF6gcB6F9hC0qO65anJyogp11Yr9BR-fqL4xE6o8xV6lpXsW8cY/w290-h400/At+the+hive+entrance.PNG" width="290" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV2MyNTJpN2NqeVk" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">At the Hive Entrance</span> </a> This useful German handbook written by Prof. Storch in 1985 (pre
varroa) explains the value of being able to calculate a hive health by
observing the outside of the hive. "All year round it is through
this little opening that the life of a colony pulses. Here it breathes
and rejects all that it will not tolerate in its domain. Here it
transmits its meaningful message for the person who can understand it.
Here the colony's behaviour informs the beekeeper of its problems and
state of health, and lets him know whether it needs his help. A keeper
who can tell the condition of his bees by observing the hive entrance
does not need to open his hives and disturb the bees' sanctuary, the
brood nest. This never produces good results. A healthy colony
must have peace if it is to perform its productive role. On principle a
visit should only be made once the keeper has determined at the hive
entrance that something is not in order. It is not always easy to know
what is happening inside the hive by observing the hive entrance and
this is only learnt after many years, especially when the keeper is
alone and there is no-one to give advice. </span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vdxOky3qe65pF-RCboA3O5J4h1Y-7Stf_PU5_M-wbmjeBjuc-XbuALx2yPf6Kkr3OD8vrmQ5xMv2K72hLKNdNSC5_dmhzXTjTvYf2g8xkkcJVC1796kHeOEWQ1Myfnnk33la5lzhEXM/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vdxOky3qe65pF-RCboA3O5J4h1Y-7Stf_PU5_M-wbmjeBjuc-XbuALx2yPf6Kkr3OD8vrmQ5xMv2K72hLKNdNSC5_dmhzXTjTvYf2g8xkkcJVC1796kHeOEWQ1Myfnnk33la5lzhEXM/s320/Capture.PNG" width="264" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla2pqWXFKZUV3ZFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in the United States</span></a> This beekeeping handbook from the U.S. Department of Agriculture
provides readers with a better understanding of beekeeping in the United
States from a l980 perspective (pre Varroa). Some topics discussed are
the life history of the honey bee; bee behavior; breeding and genetics
of honey bees; queens, packaged bees, and nuclei; managing colonies for
high honey yield and crop pollination; dis- eases and pests of honey
bees; and effects of pesticides on honey bee mortality. The handbook
also lists beekeeping organizations and some statistics on bees and
honey. Martin, E. C, E. Oertel, N. P. Nye, and others. 1980. Beekeeping
in the United States. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agriculture
Handbook. </span></span></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_x2hSnnmPQtVRkHv3sCMiE7UYseHDUGy/view" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping for All by Abbe Warre</span></a> L'Abbé Eloi François Émile Warré was born on 9 March 1867 at
Grébault-Mesnil in the Somme département. He was ordained a priest on 19
September 1891 -- Amiens diocese -- and became the parish priest of
Mérélessart (Somme) in 1897 then of Martainneville (Somme) in 1904. He
disappeared from the records in 1916 subsequently to reappear at
Saint-Symphorien (Indre-et-Loire) to devote himself exclusively to beekeeping.
He died at Tours on 20 April 1951. Abbé Warré developed The People's Hive
based on his studies of 350 hives of different systems that existed at his
time as well as of the natural habits of the bee. To publish his findings, he
wrote several books: La santé ou les Meilleurs traitements de toutes les
maladies (Health or better treatments for all illnesses), Le Miel, ses
propriétés et ses usages (Honey its properties and applications), La Santé,
manuel-guide des malades et des bien-portants (Health, a manual for the ill
and the well) --1912 -- and by far the most important L'Apiculture pour Tous
(Beekeeping for All) whose twelfth and last edition is dated 1948.
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga12NK9Z1fCcK9T2F9C0814W-jkYQC-eg223aRqjyNbAOAGwQe9-u2yXZZUvJI3QQiScQbjOEVC1wChzZQfD8Q_wlPFGnDXcbxk3_U0MU1DRBnUGN4aR_6U9J2xKkfbzlEdFV-ASx5Ipg/s1600/Basic+beekeeping+manual.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga12NK9Z1fCcK9T2F9C0814W-jkYQC-eg223aRqjyNbAOAGwQe9-u2yXZZUvJI3QQiScQbjOEVC1wChzZQfD8Q_wlPFGnDXcbxk3_U0MU1DRBnUGN4aR_6U9J2xKkfbzlEdFV-ASx5Ipg/w341-h400/Basic+beekeeping+manual.PNG" width="341" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZXp4Ym8zcDlTSFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Basic Beekeeping Manual</a> </span>
(<b>Africa</b>) This is a 2 volume publication written by Pam Gregory
with assistance of Gay Marris of the U.K. National Bee Unit (FERA) that
concentrates on top bar hive beekeeping, but many of the techniques and
ideas can also be used by traditional and frame hive beekeepers.
"This field manual is designed for use by field-based trainers in
sub Saharan Africa. It is based on colour pictures with few words. The
manual covers basic techniques needed to start a beekeeping business. It
also offers some new ideas to help beekeepers to become independent by
making their own equipment from local materials. I hope that this will
help people to start beekeeping at an affordable cost, and maybe to
experiment with new materials. The pictures show some of the many
different ways that people keep bees. This is intended to promote
discussion and shared experiences to help people to solve problems
locally. The manual concentrates on top bar hive beekeeping but many of
the techniques and ideas can also be used by traditional and frame hive
beekeepers." The
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR0thLUVyLWxTdEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Advanced Beekeeping Manual</a>
covers more advanced management techniques and problem solving and
offers some ideas about how to tackle them. The
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTTJHSWZRcnFKTEk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swahili language version</a>
of this manual.</span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TAIklvZQoelgbFr4XG1ifMZu2ZFuYQ92/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">A Beginner's Guide to Beekeeping in Kenya</span></a>
by Thomas Carroll, Msc. (Agr.)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHPmENkw4QieOhi4SMimRSY3_AMDJhZTsS3yf0tEAp7jGT_ofpqEfgUmFQFZllVDExDMJ0dJ-v6_NiWvofaPhmxadf9TLmEvH0yiSO9XypJEZCj021fFzF1H39QdLipU-XkjlJRh39MI/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="371" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXHPmENkw4QieOhi4SMimRSY3_AMDJhZTsS3yf0tEAp7jGT_ofpqEfgUmFQFZllVDExDMJ0dJ-v6_NiWvofaPhmxadf9TLmEvH0yiSO9XypJEZCj021fFzF1H39QdLipU-XkjlJRh39MI/w289-h400/Capture.PNG" width="289" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">"This book was written to assist beekeepers in <b>Kenya</b> and other
African countries improve their beekeeping. It is written in
simple language and is intended to be as practical as possible." Thomas
Carroll. Reader's feedback on the guide. </span><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">“It is a wonderful and easily understandable introduction to
beekeeping with all the important tips and advice……….it is by far the
most informative book (about Kenyan beekeeping)”. From the
Organic Farmer Magazine, Nairobi,
</span></i><i><span style="font-family: inherit;">“<i>Congratulations for your Beekeeping Guide that is very interesting,
complete and useful not only for the Scutellata beekeepers but for
the Adansonii ones in Central and West Africa where the problems are
similar</i>”.</span></i></span></span>
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The book brings out the enormous untapped potential for the
development of a dynamic apiculture industry in the developing
countries. Most countries in these regions are blessed with abundant
sunshine, and a rich flora which blooms all the year round. An
integrated consideration of the problems and potential of the apiculture
industry in the <b>tropics and sub- tropics</b> will therefore help in
identifying the constraints responsible for the gap between potential
and actual honey production. At the same time, it will help to monitor
and regulate the movement ofbees and associated pathogens from temperate
into tropical areas, where beekeeping is especially vulnerable to
setbacks caused by new diseases. We urgently need a mechanism for
disease monitoring, and for organizing an early warning system with
reference to the spread of new pests and pathogens. Information on
marketing opportunities will also be necessary for countries that are
substantially increasing their apicultural production. Much of
this book has been written by scientists who are authorities in their
respective fields. The book, therefore, serves as an encyclopedia of
information relating to the various aspects of apiculture.</span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0RfdZvMpVOzfTj44xuayRIckfJzHBXqXbYw30shozASzjrwJsdq-C-eaDqQ8HamtA5-alrEwr7DV3dnYWETK4k1qrpVNQ8VksydZf32xj8O9jblsV2mAtXUvHxbsxqoWAKxXK-2RFezM/s1600/Capturennnn.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0RfdZvMpVOzfTj44xuayRIckfJzHBXqXbYw30shozASzjrwJsdq-C-eaDqQ8HamtA5-alrEwr7DV3dnYWETK4k1qrpVNQ8VksydZf32xj8O9jblsV2mAtXUvHxbsxqoWAKxXK-2RFezM/s320/Capturennnn.PNG" width="320" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtleVgxR2kwQzB2aE0" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">The National Beekeeping Training Extension Manual</span></a> (<b>Uganda</b>) This beekeeping training guide produced by the
Ugandan Ministry of Agriculture is a manual that others in tropical and
subtropical areas may find useful. "Over the years, several
stakeholders including Government Ministries, Departments and Agencies
have been carrying out training of farmers in their own ways without
standard guide and uniformity. Some of the guides/manuals used by
the stakeholders are substandard. This practice has for long undermined
efforts to increase production and enforce compliance to standards.
This manual has therefore been developed to provide the basic
standards for training beekeepers all over Uganda."</span></span></span>
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<a href="http://www.fao.org/3/t0104e/t0104e00.htm" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in <b>Africa</b></span></a>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNY3SBhWZmSIecr-fxv0ec6RQq0jy4dUWMhg84LP4x6tJCsI9PhCLYy_yTfBJguTx3BNE1O2gWYssD2sPlWt-v9_RyqsW0s6KpIHfq_iC-FR8H_JD7pfgx8SkaAlCUM2MaslHoGrrJmc/s1600/Capture2.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="221" data-original-width="149" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwNY3SBhWZmSIecr-fxv0ec6RQq0jy4dUWMhg84LP4x6tJCsI9PhCLYy_yTfBJguTx3BNE1O2gWYssD2sPlWt-v9_RyqsW0s6KpIHfq_iC-FR8H_JD7pfgx8SkaAlCUM2MaslHoGrrJmc/w269-h400/Capture2.JPG" width="269" /></a>This practical guide to Beekeeping in Africa is one volume in the
programme of publications on apiculture in the Third World initiated early
in 1986 by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.
Previous volumes include Tropical and sub-tropical apiculture; Honeybee
mites and their control: A selected annotated bibliography; Honey and
beeswax control; Beekeeping in Asia, Honeybee diseases and enemies In
Asia: A practical guide; and Beekeeping in Latin America. It is hoped that
other topical works will follow. The present practical guide was
written by Mr. Stephen O. Adjare, Research Fellow in charge of the
Apiculture Promotion Unit of the Technology Consultancy Centre, University
of Science and Technology, Kumasi, Ghana. While it draws on a wealth of
information based on the experience of beekeepers around the world, and
especially in the United States, it focuses on those problems,
opportunities and resources which are peculiar to Africa. It stresses the
potential that beekeeping offers to agriculture, rural development,
nutrition and income generation in the continent, and the ways in which
individual, small-scale and commercial beekeepers can improve the
productivity of their hives. The use of local technology and materials, as
well as the particular characteristics of the African honeybee, are
treated in detail.</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT47suSEPSoWzBZVXjkWdcXv7F5XkRLLpmWEpDs-cXv-SiygiiUb6-dNFES9y6VCcBqRME1bxh2E_xD_uH3UWoO0yDbqCyGVgx3DJ9tYuyoDNP3TiyZvHwRAvLTljk9GyqFxwUELg8KYE/s1600/Capture1.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="389" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT47suSEPSoWzBZVXjkWdcXv7F5XkRLLpmWEpDs-cXv-SiygiiUb6-dNFES9y6VCcBqRME1bxh2E_xD_uH3UWoO0yDbqCyGVgx3DJ9tYuyoDNP3TiyZvHwRAvLTljk9GyqFxwUELg8KYE/w400-h389/Capture1.PNG" width="400" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVmtqNFN1YjZyYmc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Apiculture in Sub-Saharan Africa</span></a>
(A manual for trainers) This manual focuses on modern beekeeping
in <b>Sub-Saharan Africa</b>. It attempts to upgrade and refine the
knowledge of trainers/field workers within government departments or
organizations/NGOs on the correct use of modern beekeeping techniques.
The final aim is that competent services will be provided to
farmers/beekeepers and appropriate transfer of know-how will be
accomplished to the same. It is hoped that this will contribute to the
creation of a new generation of beekeepers in the Region.</span></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihNgmLlOBioEBlXzwRa1kmYHABCk6MqXfzueV3tiBwMAgSl2f3EWsjDYbglHCN9YAhbyi1GaprhvcDnqMYojt1xKKQR3LvmvUAr7jX_dYoaCSk9176UInmjLYiiOky-bPh3ESyO8tu3rw/s1600/Capturennnn.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihNgmLlOBioEBlXzwRa1kmYHABCk6MqXfzueV3tiBwMAgSl2f3EWsjDYbglHCN9YAhbyi1GaprhvcDnqMYojt1xKKQR3LvmvUAr7jX_dYoaCSk9176UInmjLYiiOky-bPh3ESyO8tu3rw/w376-h400/Capturennnn.PNG" width="376" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT1ZKVi16aDZuaEE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Small Scale Beekeeping</span></a>
(The Peace Corps) As part of the United States “whole of government”
effrt to address food security in the <b>developing world</b>, the Peace
Corps has edited and revised several existing technical manuals designed
for use by Volunteers. Most of these materials were created in the late
1970s and early 1980s and were written by a number of diffrent
subject-matter experts employed or contracted by the Peace Corps. They
have been revised with funding provided to the Peace Corps by the U.S.
Agency for International Development’s (USAID) Bureau of Food Security
under a food security agreement, known as “Feed the Future.” The
Small-Scale Beekeeping manual is written as a guide for Volunteers who
are getting started with small-scale beekeeping projects. The intention
is to provide an overview of beekeeping and its possibilities as a tool
for development. The manual focuses on “intermediate levels” of
beekeeping that can be self-sustaining, using only local
resources.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2rxu4q9S-MHvD1dCzyMxtQygcNcaUEO1mFoNWBNDyXa_REXOqmML0eFgdr4AiVKm055PNN7aEo3AsTMfGTsXdaDZg8GHA46n8wzOvQAtH4joXe8v4i0Y0n54nM4cRe2vRxqW-Ig-g54/s1600/Capture8.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV2rxu4q9S-MHvD1dCzyMxtQygcNcaUEO1mFoNWBNDyXa_REXOqmML0eFgdr4AiVKm055PNN7aEo3AsTMfGTsXdaDZg8GHA46n8wzOvQAtH4joXe8v4i0Y0n54nM4cRe2vRxqW-Ig-g54/w351-h400/Capture8.PNG" width="351" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRUlfVHg2TWpGbVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">A Manual for Trainers of Small-Scale Beekeeping Development
Workers</span></a>
(The Peace Corps) A Manual for Trainers of Small-scale Beekeeping
Development Workers [T0029] is useful for Volunteers and staff for
training purposes. The content is adaptable to pre-service and inservice
training events. It is also valuable to Volunteers interested in
training community members. The training is designed to help
participants develop the skills they will need to work and live as
beekeeping extensionists. The emphasis of this training is on
equipping future Volunteers, counterparts, and community members with
the skills necessary to promote appropriate beekeeping development. This
is a creative process that requires individuals to take an active role
in identifying their own needs and finding appropriate and sustainable
ways to meet them. The sessions outlined in this manual cover a range of
skills needed to establish beekeeping projects. The approach to training
used in this manual is based on the principles of non formal education
and is designed to strike a balance between structured learning and
independent discovery. By using the sessions, resources, and methods
outlined here, participants will develop a working knowledge of
beekeeping, as well as skills for applying that knowledge in a
meaningful way.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIfk_KRTFl5yMrgrKVD56HZWFivHbr7s8rWaVXQC7QCpFatMDznyRQc0Bf0FF7awwB0B2mPaVninToRZEMw5oXMW9Z8QKCQkLSwTLdFtH_OaFz5nGcprV6jqgG8WA-eLD5SJMZLHrE-BE/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIfk_KRTFl5yMrgrKVD56HZWFivHbr7s8rWaVXQC7QCpFatMDznyRQc0Bf0FF7awwB0B2mPaVninToRZEMw5oXMW9Z8QKCQkLSwTLdFtH_OaFz5nGcprV6jqgG8WA-eLD5SJMZLHrE-BE/w294-h400/Capture.PNG" width="294" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlN3dFNngtR2tOV1U" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping Training for Farmers in the Hymalayas</span></a> This manual produced by the
<a href="http://www.icimod.org/" target="_blank">International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development</a>
covers the full range of basic topics related to beekeeping development,
including the importance of beekeeping in modern agriculture and the use
of bees for crop pollination; production of honey, wax and other hive
products; honey quality standards; and using value chain and market
management to increase the benefits accruing to beekeepers. The focus is
on participatory hands-on training, with issues explained in simple
language with many illustrations. The manual was prepared to meet formal
training needs in <b>Bangladesh</b>, <b>Bhutan</b>, <b>India</b>, and
<b>Nepal</b>, but it is suitable for use in ICIMOD's other member
countries as well - <b>Afghanistan</b>, <b>China</b>, <b>Myanmar</b>,
and <b>Pakistan</b>.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9CA0tXWdBD1QLsX85DsuGxljKg7FHjFR8TX35ZQMIWD56MIlrk6goykFnD2u863ETYjgDGEND7sJmieDQEUbTVCBBy4WpmmpphD_T0LKVOKWLA6VXVI6X8HwP9O4gREi7RvrgWvRHb6g/s1600/Capture4.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9CA0tXWdBD1QLsX85DsuGxljKg7FHjFR8TX35ZQMIWD56MIlrk6goykFnD2u863ETYjgDGEND7sJmieDQEUbTVCBBy4WpmmpphD_T0LKVOKWLA6VXVI6X8HwP9O4gREi7RvrgWvRHb6g/w339-h400/Capture4.PNG" width="339" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLWc3ZnM4bEQ4TzQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in Asia</span></a>
by Pongthep Akratanakul (Food and Agriculture Organization of the
United Nations) - "In a continent as vast as <b>Asia</b>, differences in
climate, levels of agricultural development, and bee races are so
variable that no one book can cover all beekeeping situations. The
author of this study draws heavily on his experiences with European
honeybees introduced into northern Thailand, but he also discusses the
principal features of beekeeping activities in the other zonal and
socio-cultural contexts in Asia at different stages of development.
Both the experienced beekeeper and the novice will find a mine of
useful information, guidance and suggestions in the publication and it
is for this reason that FAO hopes that it will be a useful contribution
to the economic development of the most populous continent in the
world."</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp3KqrigmRIil4_AAVJdJ9-oeEO4igSp-_wmlzvuL7tX224jEeSLIQcZx_GuZJY_GqoNr9Cw5MIVQO54rb3XgC9GzlITxAcJb2STqYiOTRRhrvU7Hzgsb_mYWQvLAS4-qXghFsCRahVFo/s1600/Capture1.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp3KqrigmRIil4_AAVJdJ9-oeEO4igSp-_wmlzvuL7tX224jEeSLIQcZx_GuZJY_GqoNr9Cw5MIVQO54rb3XgC9GzlITxAcJb2STqYiOTRRhrvU7Hzgsb_mYWQvLAS4-qXghFsCRahVFo/w275-h400/Capture1.PNG" width="275" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlU3U1YWc0QVQ1QTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Bees and their Role in Forest Livelihoods</span></a>
by Nicola Bradbear (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United
Nations) - "The role of bees in sustaining forests and forest dependent
livelihoods remains poorly known and appreciated. Bees are a fantastic
world resource: they are essential for sustaining our environment
because they pollinate flowering plants. Bees sustain our agriculture by
pollinating crops and thereby increasing yields of seeds and fruits.
Today, apiculture plays a valuable part in rural livelihoods
worldwide, and this book aims to provide an insight into the many ways
in which bees and beekeeping contribute to these livelihoods, and how to
strengthen this contribution. While the rationale for the sustainable
use of tree resources is widely appreciated, by contrast the sustainable
use of bee resources is poorly promoted and appreciated. Rural people in
every developing country are keeping bees or harvesting from them in one
way or another. This book aims to help ensure that these people
gain the most from these activities."</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-SUlkXe6g_ytHFUtmM_ZtcSDYRAZ6bhvME_92Lop72ew0wJdNUT7lnh_n3ijGFIYk_6JA-spA8UBFxkxjXDTDYOa6AWaulwT-O8ab7iceJ9_7AXbb_12Sgmpm54dpyMNG8018xKML24Q/s1600/Capturegggg.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-SUlkXe6g_ytHFUtmM_ZtcSDYRAZ6bhvME_92Lop72ew0wJdNUT7lnh_n3ijGFIYk_6JA-spA8UBFxkxjXDTDYOa6AWaulwT-O8ab7iceJ9_7AXbb_12Sgmpm54dpyMNG8018xKML24Q/w280-h400/Capturegggg.PNG" width="280" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTjdkYldZMGk5WlE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">A Beekeeping Guide</span></a> - A good beginners guide written by Harlan Attfield of
<a href="http://www.enterpriseworks.org/" target="_blank">VITA</a> for
beekeeping in the tropics and subtropics. "This guide provides an
overview of beekeeping in the <b>tropics and subtropics</b>. It
explains hive management techniques and offers insight into the life of
the common honey bee, Apis Mellifera and the Asian Honey Bee, Apis
Cerana. There are many races of these two honey bees and they
often require very specific techniques and equipment to hive them
successfully."</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSivQvUfnvJ7RbQky_xveRiMnyUP93xMffklyIp7kXpPpI1ambKtD8pj5qKXZK4R4hjAhUJu-LE-s39mY4EqfoQJziahrZfxmiJPezVLxtNJM2spG_-UFmd47jN0FaeWpy-x7b5rZB-g0/s1600/Capturettt.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSivQvUfnvJ7RbQky_xveRiMnyUP93xMffklyIp7kXpPpI1ambKtD8pj5qKXZK4R4hjAhUJu-LE-s39mY4EqfoQJziahrZfxmiJPezVLxtNJM2spG_-UFmd47jN0FaeWpy-x7b5rZB-g0/s320/Capturettt.PNG" width="289" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNi1Pb1laLVl4cnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in the Tropics</span></a> - A beginners beekeeping guide written by P. Segeren and
published by
<a href="http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/agrodok.html" target="_blank">Agrodok</a>. "You can keep bees as an interesting hobby, or as a main or an
extra source of income. This booklet mainly provides information
on how to work with honey-bees that nest in cavities. In most of the
world regions this will be the European bee Apis mellifera, but in large
parts of (sub)tropical Asia the quite similar species A.cerana is mainly
used. Although the composition of a honey-bee colony is basically the
same all over the world, the management of bees must be adapted to the
species and race, the climate and the vegetation." </span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1I3b25wF0WWVZqkp4STkIFpGim7Pm6_FsHn2YoHmMeOvPFtRyZLRSfvmOazxPMKGLzA3NafC8U2jookfAXTMrirzqlx4Ja-pSil5EoWY2LFyONHAIqPsdgAPFsswejhAbflURjP53cxE/s1600/Capturesarda.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1I3b25wF0WWVZqkp4STkIFpGim7Pm6_FsHn2YoHmMeOvPFtRyZLRSfvmOazxPMKGLzA3NafC8U2jookfAXTMrirzqlx4Ja-pSil5EoWY2LFyONHAIqPsdgAPFsswejhAbflURjP53cxE/s400/Capturesarda.PNG" width="256" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYjNmeUg5YWV5Q0E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in India</span></a>
Beekeeping has been practiced in Indian since time
immemorial. The earliest mention of it is in the Vedas and the
Ramayana. Success in beekeeping is largely a question of the
proper understanding of the biology and behaviour of the honey bees and
their proper management including knowledge of their diseases and
enemies and the latest equipment for handling them. This book is
intended to serve as a handy reference and guide for students of
agriculture, extension workers and all those who are interested in
beekeeping either as a hobby or profession. </span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZEsSDGSpG2E4eyeDNhNfax4o-MCUvXPqueLajaEJzujXOXnSSpwLOkbgorKMXSmRu0TuCuVv7SI_fioYS0406AKIsRZ6cqE08vsEzwfisfVVrpXN4HBOWpnhyNvZv_EUC5gy76FHSN4/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ZEsSDGSpG2E4eyeDNhNfax4o-MCUvXPqueLajaEJzujXOXnSSpwLOkbgorKMXSmRu0TuCuVv7SI_fioYS0406AKIsRZ6cqE08vsEzwfisfVVrpXN4HBOWpnhyNvZv_EUC5gy76FHSN4/w350-h400/Capture.PNG" width="350" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSldBY1E5TFVGeHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Honeybees and Their Management in India</span></a>
by R.C. Mishra (Indian Council of Agricultural Research) - "The
beekeeping practices for domesticated Indian honeybee, Apis cerana
indica F. were adopted from the west with suitable modifications suiting
to Indian honeybee. There is need to undertake intensive research for
therefinement of management practices for improved honey yield and
efficient pollination of crops. Production of other valuable hive
products like royal jelly, beeswax and bee venom needs
commercialization. There is a great diversity in regional agroclimatic
conditions and flora. Therefore, for taking up beekeeping, there is a
need to carry out some careful studies to explore the potential of each
area. This is an attempt to present a world-wide picture of
beekeeping, suitable for practical and class-room reference. The book is
mainly focussed on Indian literature, though the contents also draw from
the knowledge accumulated in more advanced countries. It is a
comprehensive account on different aspects of beekeeping, and students,
teachers and scientists will profit by studying it. I am sure, the book
will generate awareness and catalyse action towards a more effective
exploitation of honeybees for honey and other bee products as also for
crop production through bee pollination."</span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wm_4kQxXFWQt-qOOV5eRlaD5vpCGbuVd/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in in Uttara Kannada, Central Western Ghats, India (Indian
Government)</span></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8qZYOzeEftCgai0RFb5bKfQzsorZ5kUlOqiS8SBxOsmjFP-NgZvSDMSQvZ31Tv5WJ1lyrRW-4TxPn5f65rQ2gsUcZlN5XT2GxJ_h5m4xGwVZRZKCnabjP5vJnCwFErt5kKjolLHxWrA/s1600/Capture3.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="404" data-original-width="386" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8qZYOzeEftCgai0RFb5bKfQzsorZ5kUlOqiS8SBxOsmjFP-NgZvSDMSQvZ31Tv5WJ1lyrRW-4TxPn5f65rQ2gsUcZlN5XT2GxJ_h5m4xGwVZRZKCnabjP5vJnCwFErt5kKjolLHxWrA/w381-h400/Capture3.PNG" width="381" /></a>This is a beginners beekeeping guide to beekeeping in the Central Western
Ghats part of <b>India</b> which includes the keeping of Apis
Cerana, Apis Florea, Apis Dorsata and the stingless Trigona.
"Beekeeping is a forest and agro-based industry, which is beyond the
ordinary realms of industry,in the sense that the humans derive benefits
from interaction between two living things like plants and bees without
affecting adversely both. On the contrary plants, including many
crops,prosper with the abundance of bees (as pollinating agents) and the
bees, sheltered both by nature and humans provide mainly honey and other
by-products like beeswax, bee-pollen, propolis and royal jelly.
Bee-keeping, systematically adopted as a supplement to farming, can bring
prosperity to the villages of Uttara Kannada, a district endowed with
species rich forests and cultivation of a high diversity crops. Unlike
intensive farming or fishing that can corrode the natural resource base,
abundance of honey bees in a natural environment benefits both crops and
wild plants."
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qAO-Pog3EC55O-SnkQF71vzAd6qMsAws/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping Manual for Farmers in Sikkim, India</span></a>
by Dr. Peter Gross
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"Beekeeping has been a traditional household activity in Sikkim for
centuries. Rural communities
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throughout the state have adopted this activity as substantial part of
their sustainable livelihoods. In
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17Gnvm38fAD4emAENGRAHigQcKBXS1dZHm2176zTpkIKZ-0em4uL9jz4MIPAxquq3aVs9XF58uQlhnzMyLWncvS1B6LkUpC_zFnHCinqgPG4kyh0PRliu0t8nE9TE3rpSCivHRlMSZpY/s1600/Capture1.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="417" data-original-width="552" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh17Gnvm38fAD4emAENGRAHigQcKBXS1dZHm2176zTpkIKZ-0em4uL9jz4MIPAxquq3aVs9XF58uQlhnzMyLWncvS1B6LkUpC_zFnHCinqgPG4kyh0PRliu0t8nE9TE3rpSCivHRlMSZpY/w400-h301/Capture1.PNG" width="400" /></a>addition to providing income and honey, beekeeping supports other
products and services such as
<span style="color: black;">wax, pollen, medicine and, of particular importance, pollination. The
entire state of Sikkim </span><span style="color: black;">represents an ideal situation to develop beekeeping as an important
component of integrated</span><span style="color: black;">
development and sustainable livelihoods. The various bio physical
conditions, such as varied</span><span style="color: black;">
natural heritage of rural communities make it an ideal activity for
enterprise development. This </span><span style="color: black;">beekeeping handbook has been compiled from various sources to provides
a tool to farmers,</span><span style="color: black;">
governments, NGOs, universities, vocational training institutes, private
sector organizations and </span><span style="color: black;">individual beekeepers in the North Eastern Region to initiate and
manage beekeeping activities, as </span><span style="color: black;">well as facilitate the training of other farmers. It includes a wealth
of information on a full range of </span><span style="color: black;">topics related to beekeeping development. I am confident that the
handbook will be one of the </span><span style="color: black;">important resource materials for beekeeping development in Sikkim." Dr.
Peter Gross</span>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cN6UNlZlzEcSq_dfmlacW1qiT4Gi8HyS/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Rafter Beekeeping</a> </span><span style="color: black;">Sustainable management with <b>Apis Dorsata</b> training
manual. </span>The following document is intended to serve as a training manual and has
been developed on the basis of related literature and the personal
observations of the author. It aims to provide the essential requirements
for the implementation of rafter beekeeping and presents guidelines for
rafter construction and management as a means of sustainable harvesting.
Nevertheless, it should not be considered as a substitute for practical
training by an experienced rafter beekeeper, at least in the first stages
of implementation. As is the case for any beekeeping activity, experience
is a key factor for success. Eric Guerin, Beekeeping consultant
Eric.guerin68@gmail.com
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RP0wYzgwp3ARlTHNzeAuwM5YUcyENs56/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the Phillipines</a>
</span>
(University of the Phillipines)
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDD6Y7V-hSV4jfvPNTl1i7wpOmD_m6PA1krheVtreVcU1-H2p33jKne3Q-9y7TjbKZH-4kBEu4Gi3BETF0sE3mz5iGPuJEbu2qHi0vX6toeOGcit3xJDdM0eFgHIB3XRNv6M2xUd0eco/s1600/Capture4.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="426" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDD6Y7V-hSV4jfvPNTl1i7wpOmD_m6PA1krheVtreVcU1-H2p33jKne3Q-9y7TjbKZH-4kBEu4Gi3BETF0sE3mz5iGPuJEbu2qHi0vX6toeOGcit3xJDdM0eFgHIB3XRNv6M2xUd0eco/w313-h400/Capture4.PNG" width="313" /></a>The Ancestral Domain and Natural Resource Management in Sagada, Mountain
Province, Northern <b>Philippines</b> is an action research program of the
Cordillera Studies Center, University of the Philippines College
Baguio. In line with the Program’s objective “to test sustainable
and equitable community-based natural resource management systems,”
beekeeping was introduced to the<br />
community. Today, there is a cooperative of beekeepers in Sagada that
seeks to encourage individuals to take up beekeeping. This Kit
covers the following aspects of beekeeping, including discussions<br />
particular to Cordillera conditions, in four sections, as follows:<br />
Section 1: An Introduction to Beekeeping<br />
Section 2: The Bee Farm<br />
Section 3: Operation and Maintenance of the Bee Farm<br />
Section 4: Pests and Diseases of Honeybees
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjARi88DSX4Ysu6nSe3o_mhQ2aAALsiLyvIgSOkXLlIf9-9-nmhlLmUHkvA_n0_mF-87v8k_ebRHzaTe1NB87FmbHzLymiYoVmSYGzzQh0r0sezIY3oyBA5SjE2dLs62WmSscGT1MmMMbE/s1600/Capture2.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjARi88DSX4Ysu6nSe3o_mhQ2aAALsiLyvIgSOkXLlIf9-9-nmhlLmUHkvA_n0_mF-87v8k_ebRHzaTe1NB87FmbHzLymiYoVmSYGzzQh0r0sezIY3oyBA5SjE2dLs62WmSscGT1MmMMbE/w400-h353/Capture2.PNG" width="400" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbUlOLWxmN0NBc1k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeper's Manual</span></a> (Belize) - Management and Caring of Africanized Bees for the
Production of Honey In the Vaca Forest Reserve in <b>Belize</b>.
The primary aim of this Beekeeper’s Manual is to provide
information to beekeepers on the integrated management of Africanized
Bees. The manual describes the basic management of beekeeping from the
formation of a new nucleus to the extraction and marketing of honey.
Beekeepers in Belize should not only think that the only product
in beekeeping ishoney. Pollen, propolis, wax, royal jelly and venom, the
queen, the beehives and the apicultural materials are other products
that capture a good market price. This manual takes into
consideration climatic changes experienced over the past 5 years and the
response of bees to this factor.</span>
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<u style="color: blue; font-size: xx-large;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="books">Books</a>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="classicbeekeepingbooks">Classic Beekeeping Books</a> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sxSPgF0y0F9sWWP76K2R7N2JVxs_aGS0WHI69Ez3SfXP3YQ2AVKjFfoQWtz-miHHbaVh_9VzfXQZ6eVr_ph463FD6xTP5CBJA5xVUaUrWEaRYIgaAn4zoTi-cmSOWalQpTd2hQNkGqU/s1600/img_0191.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sxSPgF0y0F9sWWP76K2R7N2JVxs_aGS0WHI69Ez3SfXP3YQ2AVKjFfoQWtz-miHHbaVh_9VzfXQZ6eVr_ph463FD6xTP5CBJA5xVUaUrWEaRYIgaAn4zoTi-cmSOWalQpTd2hQNkGqU/s320/img_0191.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CDwhBJg4j8ZoeMM8KuFa1FAiUWsSsnrj/view?usp=sharing" style="outline-width: 0px; user-select: auto;" target="_blank">The Hive and the Honey-Bee (Langstroth)</a> -<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-size: 19px; letter-spacing: 0.0933333px; line-height: 17.2484px; white-space: nowrap; word-spacing: 0.386667px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 17px; text-align: center; white-space: nowrap;">This Treatise on the Hive and the Honey-Bee</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr6Y0seTMNfIVoqz8LVp_74BiVbBktoIq3maQMaTyXVXhyphenhyphenHrFBmI6cV74sohBnsUjOPhfprR6Z02RtH-vqvhQ9Vi2kfe9aJHzDfbKbb8X7TWsMsX2DzxgwCaGGo_arx-J8LzN4SLZkG0M/s1600/Langstroth+the+hive+and+the+honey+bee.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr6Y0seTMNfIVoqz8LVp_74BiVbBktoIq3maQMaTyXVXhyphenhyphenHrFBmI6cV74sohBnsUjOPhfprR6Z02RtH-vqvhQ9Vi2kfe9aJHzDfbKbb8X7TWsMsX2DzxgwCaGGo_arx-J8LzN4SLZkG0M/s1600/Langstroth+the+hive+and+the+honey+bee.JPG" width="267" /></a>is respectfully submitted by the Author, to the candid consideration of those
who are interested in the culture of the most useful as well as wonderful
Insect,in all the range of Animated Nature. The information which it
contains will be found to be greatly in advance of anything which has yet
been presented to the English Reader; and, as far as facilities
for practical management are concerned, it is believed to be a very
material advance over anything which has hitherto been communicated to the
Apiarian Public. Debarred, by the state of his health, from the more
appropriate duties of his Office, and compelled to seek an employment which
would call him, as much as possible, into the open air, the Author indulges
the hope that the result of his studies and observations, in an important
branch of Natural History, will be found of service to the Community as well
as to himself. The satisfaction which he has taken in his researches has been
such that he has felt exceedingly desirous of interesting others, in a pursuit
which, (without any reference to its pecuniary profits,) is capable of
exciting the delight and enthusiasm of all intelligent observers.<br />
<br />
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1psqwi2I5wsIrn-Vz0oqGnfvffOgcnRdS/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The ABC XYZ of Bee Culture (1910)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AK88CvznIw84y_Hh2GuKQTQaUG_vn9Eq/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Mysteries of Beekeeping Explained - M. Quinby (1853)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WcULO4pZFtTsWVAXRygN4uUDrh2uCQt9/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">First Lessons in Beekeeping - C.P. Dadant (1919)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g7MTZePy9PED7dCjak6jXu5jr6JRHEa3/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dadant System of Beekeeping - C.P. Dadant (1920)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CzU78dfkJnMi5tRmRZm5NObIAp1VBe1m/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Constructive Beekeeping - Ed H. Clark (1918)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/15d91ne1VuwW_2hp_hxy7P-mePo1I1UUI/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Practical Queen Rearing (Frank Pellett l918)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/144w0Es0ADwQbFPA-XQca_e8iRAP3P2NP/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Farming (R.O.B Manley)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nkHR5NBewC3UGKQpGAkytQ6OCTNWisrB/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping for All (Abbe Warre)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pXT2NKGKuIWoKtL5A1Uf_fx_9ctdwfFf/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Bee People (M. Morley 1903)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/132y3CnBSvumL4kXa3WvnsNIhtAVaIjT8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">American Honey Plants (1920 Frank Pellett)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DtafYjkSYTgtPAs0syQAzbXS3X7tTehW/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Guide to Beekeeping in British Columbia (1911)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1igGzGLvm_Ec94pGt5oRPmx_2LzlsLtJO/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dr. C. C. Miller's Fifty Years Among the Bees </a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/16zYzt-cl53pbRgI2Y6tNKOCWhoMaR40z/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Hunting (1936 Book - How to line bees)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GqDZc6nM4oDX3m9damREHF9gJsWR8kpr/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">1881 Household Cyclopedia (Includes Horticulture) Book</a>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xvT1rHrJD08o6d41wnuZeRYqU-xBjgZ4/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Bee-Keeper's Handy Book by Henry Allen (1883)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1keRVWhxPS9QpA3I94wzEbcDmtBW38wRF/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Plants and Beekeeping - F.N. Howes (1945)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HxMy-nX8gIcg2YJB3Lo51T6_oHEQzYM4/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Practical Beekeeping - Ralph Benton (1907)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SnziakAkvv0ACocwD3A5-M6E4zYhFBt_/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Some of the essentials of Beekeeping - Burton Gates (1912)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/132y3CnBSvumL4kXa3WvnsNIhtAVaIjT8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">American Honey Plants (1920 Book)</a><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/y975jccmduis2p697yykw4k0rg9yx6dl" target="_blank">The Bee-Keepers Guide (A.J. Cook 1883)</a>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yGDs2y9xzQQaiiXXWY1JW0L5FYV1XrCK/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Apis Mellifera or the poison of the Honey Bee (Wolfe 1858)</a>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/12OqaolO-VJKcvQhiaWfVLW7rCCLCskLb/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The American Apiculturist (1883)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AoYcxoBF_8iaIvihBDUSFQJZLhZ-Erez/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Hive Bee - A manual for beekeeping in Hawaii (E.C. Smith) 1919</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lzXGfsRcyguTo6jFmIckebuCndxIm5Fr/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Practical Bee Guide - Rev. Digges (1901)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K7d2JqkYF69q1qnESU7QK-UdpfG0lBr2/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Every step in Beekeeping - Charles Douglass (1922)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1px-0Dieb36SPP6o6oqOa0u42q80pAUC7/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Elements of Beekeeping - H.R. Niswonger (1919)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wh0JRfRJo2cQuo5nvsIoQ7XqJHwf3zyD/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the Kootenays (B.C.) - W.J. Sheppard (1918)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1342U64oc1U37yE4jpS2WT53DY-_zE9JI/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the Interior of British Columbia (1922)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I8LOvH4OuCfYiGZAjkHKLv0Fo-H7JyEF/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping - E.F. Philips (1915)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Li93nYvZw6WTYNJf3k7NSurLqNupjwdr/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A thousand answers to Beekeeping - Miller and Dadant (1917)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dhhqRA5lMqenKX8VJOfKgmbPRvOV48sg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Book about Bees - Rev. Jenyns (1886)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ttCkiYuOH-Q9gqc-JEb1kAfGtU7DpxoK/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Fungi of the Bee Hive (1912)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/15yM5molMCjaVKeHjEIVL0r0f_7SviwPK/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Manual of Beekeeping (John Hunter)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1607CUrf1YYkB0JWyf1KHT6SpknSJHskR/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Flora of Victoria, Australia (1922) Book</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wGvOz89Aahnkbnd-rFR7wqsOEqabwprg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Cyclopedia of American Horticulture (L.H Bailey 1900)</a>
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* A few great sources of classical books are Cornell University's "<a href="https://digital.library.cornell.edu/collections/bees" target="_blank">The Hive the Honey Bee Collection</a>", <a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/beesoldbooks.htm" target="_blank">Michael Bush's classic bee book collection</a> and <a href="https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/search?searchTerm=beekeeping&stype=F#/titles" target="_blank">The Biodiversity Heritage Library</a>.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUGlXoVyEUqQymgjxhpD_UOrElqx_pxGgTKc4AANWmBxZYfn_mDMXgov4Vxo4rukQotvq3fmeKRO2YAiL-7lQIkJFVixieSJRgNbRijzR2GeCgaT3HKqE6cpHpLhIIipr0ovzGzAcjepY/s1600/Travelling+Beehive.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUGlXoVyEUqQymgjxhpD_UOrElqx_pxGgTKc4AANWmBxZYfn_mDMXgov4Vxo4rukQotvq3fmeKRO2YAiL-7lQIkJFVixieSJRgNbRijzR2GeCgaT3HKqE6cpHpLhIIipr0ovzGzAcjepY/s1600/Travelling+Beehive.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nFpp6-ANA1U_Iw3qh-pYjV8vQiTS6GLi/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive - Children's </a> - "The Travelling Beehive" is an amazing book for children of all
ages. I highly recommend it for every beekeeper, their children and
grandchildren. This book is wonderfully written by Elena Garcia and
Manuel Angel Rosado and beautifully illustrated by
<a href="https://juanhernaz.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Juan Hernaz</a> (<a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/picture-books/" target="_blank">Picture books by Juan Hernaz</a>). It is published by Apolo which is an organization dedicated to the
preservation of pollinators and their habitat. You can follow Polli the
honey bee and her friend Dipter the hover fly as they face the challenges of a
disappearing green space. They are joined in their struggle by Bazumba the
wild bee, Missus Bombus the bumblebee, Lepi the butterfly, her majesty the
queen, Dorian the farmer and Ramon the beekeeper. Sit back and enjoy the The
Travelling Beehive .
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tBmqEZ32BaYLQqZ4ZoCQ2RInEyHFHoos/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bobby Bumble's afraid to Fly</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Cq-E5OVsJLma7JhM5yWo1uGUXcAiYTu/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beatrice the Bee</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YD9YG7X5tnJbclEwD6BKhSlUeOKPq44p/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Busy Bee's Flower Friends</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZMcnvbMmAfHY9tvE5QhTbpyaoJzgs1Y8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarm Story</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11lgiFj4Ci-aSJ0d4E6AYbY9BqnMzYrOs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nuova or The New Bee (a children's story) - Vernon Kellogg</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VZdMVlKr5VMeok3KHdkws8VerP_V0gQN/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Bee-man of Orn and other fanciful tales (Frank Stockton 1887)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f_m1mE1D4MNaN5yTPxlFmyzQfbQfyapT/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Adventures of Maya the Bee (Children's story) - Waldemar Bonsels</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1owH0Owi0iveEmn_jGvK_SpkwvHFDmlnk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Why the Bee Buzzes (Young children) - Ryan Struhl</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/15uveRFfPQjQtB-ebZUwu_boGZ1j_AgN9/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Winnie-The-Pooh and the Missing Bees</a>
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For more children's bee activities and learning go to the
<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/general-interest.html#education" target="_blank">Education section</a>
of this Library.
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="beekeepingvideoseries">Beekeeping Video Series</a>
</span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVSHwztBj_uYplN9TbE54qGpLyDGCX4Ykb1tlhWe2RcfyNm15vlQ-SaYHQJfTPfwoWTHDaKNiDeiyEE1KmIHoKEM5yvYLizMXHwEr1PRSvdYPkmRaqzNCgXEU8E_qWr9ZRVAy7vJMa6k/s1600/Capture4444.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="275" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVSHwztBj_uYplN9TbE54qGpLyDGCX4Ykb1tlhWe2RcfyNm15vlQ-SaYHQJfTPfwoWTHDaKNiDeiyEE1KmIHoKEM5yvYLizMXHwEr1PRSvdYPkmRaqzNCgXEU8E_qWr9ZRVAy7vJMa6k/s320/Capture4444.PNG" width="320" /></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.ohiostatebeekeepers.org/beekeeping_class/" target="_blank">A Web-Based Introductory Beekeeping Training Program</a> This online beekeeping program from the Ohio State Beekeepers'
Association consists of 34 videos and 3 powerpoints and is made to accompany
the book "Backyard Beekeeping" (above). Some of the video segments
include assembling your hive and frames, branding, lighting a smoker,
seasonal management, cross combing, evaluating a queen, package bees,
swarms, laying workers, diseases and pests, moving hives, feeders and
overwintering your colonies. This combination of information is a
great starting point for the beginning beekeeper.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eo75CgKzwb-heaQ0trbK1VqqFstWHuXq9_QAOT3csL9o71KBmqzcANCTGpkgEsscJTQm82KT_DXWPDyl_ftCPUTWMX2rcxLO0MZftu8Hw_VegpmLcdRIBKG2v0N-03uYdHL-vaD_v6U/s1600/Capturevvv.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="237" data-original-width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eo75CgKzwb-heaQ0trbK1VqqFstWHuXq9_QAOT3csL9o71KBmqzcANCTGpkgEsscJTQm82KT_DXWPDyl_ftCPUTWMX2rcxLO0MZftu8Hw_VegpmLcdRIBKG2v0N-03uYdHL-vaD_v6U/s1600/Capturevvv.PNG" /></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://bee-health.extension.org/honey-bees-and-beekeeping-a-year-in-the-life-of-an-apiary/" style="outline-width: 0px; user-select: auto;" target="_blank">Honey Bees and Beekeeping: A Year in the Life of an Apiary</a> This is a very useful 7 part, 25 video beekeeper series presented by
Dr. Keith Delaplane of the University of Georgia and covers a wide range of
topics like assembly and placement of hives, installing bees, bee biology,
diseases and pests, seasonal management, harvesting and overwintering.
It was created in l993 so does not include treatment for newer issues like
Small Hive Beetle or Africanized bees.</span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">1.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/UjrdwXXEtLo" target="_blank">Introduction: History, Langstroth equipment, hive placement</a> (8:18 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 15.84px;">1.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/CkRo1ddHdWk" target="_blank">Hive and frame assembly and painting</a> (9:29 mins)</span></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">1.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/0yK64y0CtsU" target="_blank">Placement of hive, feeding and medications </a>(9:29 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">2.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/psx6sVUWxUc" target="_blank">Bee biology and equipment </a>(7:38 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">2.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/ivqCYOud0ME" target="_blank">Receiving and installing package bees </a>(7:14 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">2.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/hy5UmSosQ3Q" target="_blank">Releasing queens </a>(6:43 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">2.4 <a href="https://youtu.be/oudYBjbmD58" target="_blank">Releasing queens and stings </a>(7:05 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">3.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/HgHUgNbgnc0" target="_blank">Maturing hives and migrating hives</a> (7:10 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">3.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/uNxT6E3whU4" target="_blank">The brood nest </a>(5 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">3.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/qh7OdZUZTOY" target="_blank">Our growing hives </a>(5:49 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">3.4 <a href="https://youtu.be/ogVmNxuZnC4" target="_blank">Migrating our hives </a>(9:18 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">4.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/Db8ncLeytZQ" target="_blank">Requeening </a>(8 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">4.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/TmukiN_btGw" target="_blank">Queen Rearing </a>(9:44 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">4.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/qZ9-yzm4Hlc" target="_blank">Package production beekeeping associations </a>(9:27 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">5.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/Jd5FUJ1qDAo" target="_blank">Diseases and Pests </a>(8:52 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">5.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/Lqq4W3WfKK0" target="_blank">Chalkbrood, sacbrood, moths, tracheal mites </a>(9:28 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">5.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/yVcbvV86-Sk" target="_blank">Varroa mites and queenlessness </a>(8:35 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">6.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/VePfPNsWkUg" target="_blank">Harvesting, processing, packaging and selling</a> (6:45 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">6.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/mCmuj9J0qdw" target="_blank">Extracting honey</a> (7:36 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">6.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/TgRmlyOzKCA" target="_blank">Packaging and selling honey </a>(6:11 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">6.4 <a href="https://youtu.be/1rhm4uvkcUs" target="_blank">Commercial honey processing </a>(6:32 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">7.1 <a href="https://youtu.be/YPh70tTZVuc" target="_blank">Overwintering hives </a>(6:06 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">7.2 <a href="https://youtu.be/hoSs-NwHoV0" target="_blank">Overwintering and one story hives</a> (8:20 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">7.3 <a href="https://youtu.be/so1ovlNWQGQ" target="_blank">Second season spring management</a> (5:30 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: red; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">7.4 <a href="https://youtu.be/FL9uPmRfL5E" target="_blank">Fall Management</a> (4 mins)</span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://bee-health.extension.org/first-lessons-in-beekeeping-honey-bee-biology/" target="_blank">Bee Health First Lessons in Beekeeping</a><br /></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7mzwuO6e8mm923HIcV5VhxMydtCVsYzT_5SitoLyw7SMxKl7vKxo1mpDg2fREQnoI5FY66UAOzomUBs0vMKLCUnLXOUCtTJvnhFf2OcPnKGVZa4ieJNX0GbHpwNFn0_aC103fnzNbO0w/s1600/Capture222.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="223" data-original-width="400" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7mzwuO6e8mm923HIcV5VhxMydtCVsYzT_5SitoLyw7SMxKl7vKxo1mpDg2fREQnoI5FY66UAOzomUBs0vMKLCUnLXOUCtTJvnhFf2OcPnKGVZa4ieJNX0GbHpwNFn0_aC103fnzNbO0w/s320/Capture222.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://honeybee.uoguelph.ca/videos/" target="_blank">The University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre's online
beekeeping series</a> is a great collection of 50 videos that cover beginner topics like
hive location and setup, hive equipment, protective clothing, smoke use,
stinging, comb building, inspections, colony management, pests and
diseases to more advanced topics like making nucs, queen rearing and
indoor overwintering. The University of Guelph is in the city of
Guelph, Ontario, Canada so although much of the information is universal
it is written from a northern perspective. You can access all of the
videos from this <a href="https://honeybee.uoguelph.ca/videos/video-list/" target="_blank">University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre's video list</a>. </span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMyUWr5U2hoqp7TOt1oOnL97nKbXAHjamxJSu4uIOQf2XCH0y1lfzittyI6_24Od0_-scrkhqtjTOwxp-nzOwZeuhi5ZYeJAV8OuWFExjUJZ48ElFoNCIF-MT53RlWoCSsyWFTIdit3NE/s1600/Capture.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="386" data-original-width="629" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMyUWr5U2hoqp7TOt1oOnL97nKbXAHjamxJSu4uIOQf2XCH0y1lfzittyI6_24Od0_-scrkhqtjTOwxp-nzOwZeuhi5ZYeJAV8OuWFExjUJZ48ElFoNCIF-MT53RlWoCSsyWFTIdit3NE/s320/Capture.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/videos" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Northern Climate Video Series</a> from the University of Minnesota. This is a very useful
collection of videos particularly for the northern, cold weather
beekeeper. "The following videos were produced by the University of
Minnesota’s Department of Entomology Bee Lab and UMN Extension. Starring
lead UMN Bee Lab apiculture technician, Gary Reuter, they are intended to
be instructive and entertaining vignettes on a variety of beekeeping
topics. Each video covers a single topic, and you do not have to watch
them in any special order. In their entirety, they are a lesson on how to
keep bees in cold climates such as Minnesota. Videos produced by Deacon
Warner: dwarner@myfilmnorth.org"</span>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.norfolk-honey.co.uk/" style="outline-width: 0px; user-select: auto;" target="_blank">Stewart Spinks of the Norfolk Honey Company</a> in the UK has produced and is continuing to produce an exhaustive
series of over 200 videos that cover pretty much every topic you may
encounter from your initial setup (hive construction, painting, installing
bees, inspecting, diseases and parasites.....) to catching swarms, shook
swarms, queen rearing, overwintering, poly hives etc... "Here you
will find resources to help you get started in beekeeping, learn the basic
essentials for a successful first year. Gain help and advice to take you
through into your second year and beyond." You can access all of the
videos from the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/TheNorfolkHoneyCo/videos" target="_blank">Norfolk Honey Company youtube channel</a>. </span>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnxAdmym5gUN1CLEob7EbZQYtw5vC5sLUh62QY56t0z83y42xkQxsesZZpADOUC7gmafZqpaizSRCsQFmoGRP7P61qTZpkEnG_Z7fwOdz0J_0OZb74_a-86v1PXPGadFl8pMPUU5tyj-4/s1600/Capture3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="172" data-original-width="640" height="106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnxAdmym5gUN1CLEob7EbZQYtw5vC5sLUh62QY56t0z83y42xkQxsesZZpADOUC7gmafZqpaizSRCsQFmoGRP7P61qTZpkEnG_Z7fwOdz0J_0OZb74_a-86v1PXPGadFl8pMPUU5tyj-4/s400/Capture3.JPG" width="400" /></a></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDiQkp5kQF1iikY42MUNdC4XKq4Udu2xCHBWMRWfzCZQWJcbO_IhQfHD5ZHC81b4AajHcQ0IO7zP5PWl_RDxn3Zt-sQeWcGH7G8SvO75OCO39VoAxPOBLyDOeXdgWwQF1yzHsjX30yPG0/s1600/Capture1.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="330" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDiQkp5kQF1iikY42MUNdC4XKq4Udu2xCHBWMRWfzCZQWJcbO_IhQfHD5ZHC81b4AajHcQ0IO7zP5PWl_RDxn3Zt-sQeWcGH7G8SvO75OCO39VoAxPOBLyDOeXdgWwQF1yzHsjX30yPG0/s320/Capture1.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://hiveworld.ca/pages/video-gallery" target="_blank">Hiveworld</a>
out of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada offers a large library of instructive
videos based on season. "</span>We've arranged our video gallery by seasons because we think that's the
most logical way to do it! But note that our most recent Meet the Beekeeper
sessions get their own section because they're so popular. Pretty well
all of the YouTube videos we've produced can be viewed here. Tip: Once
you've started running a video you can make it go full-screen by either
clicking the four square corners icon in the bottom right corner of the
video box, or pressing 'F' on your keyboard. Use the same controls to shrink
it back down when done. We always get asked by new beekeepers, "Why do
I need to split my hive?" Here Barry talks about why you need to do a split
and few other options for those who don't want to make a split..."
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<span style="color: black; font-size: large;"><u>Beekeeping Video Resources</u></span>
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<a href="https://bchoneyproducers.ca/members/education-day-speakers/" target="_blank">B.C. Honey Producers Education Day Videos and Slides</a> This is a large library of videos and slides covering every subject
from overwintering 4 frame nucs to evaluating honey flavour.
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/BrushyMtnBeeFarm/videos" target="_blank">Brushy Mt Bee Farm</a>
has a very large collection of educational videos on pretty much every topic
of beekeeping.
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCg5Q97sTgjXXj_AmqThECxQ/videos" target="_blank">North Carolina State Apiculture</a>
has produced an informative selction of videos.
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0mcpy8uxfuGUClKepUQ_hQ/playlists" target="_blank">Honey Bee Honey</a>
has a good selection of videos on a wide variety of topics like spring
management, hive inspection and fall preparation for winter.
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The folks at GardenFork have produced a series entitled
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLB57601EDC866947A" target="_blank">Beekeeping 101</a>
which covers a wide variety of subjects any new beekeepers should
know.
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A good collection of videos from David Burns at
<a href="https://www.honeybeesonline.com/honey-bee-videos/" target="_blank">Long Lane Honey Bee Farms</a>.
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A selection of videos from the legendary
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/fineshooter/videos" target="_blank">Don the Fat Bee Man</a>.
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Informative videos frm
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/DevanRawn/playlists" target="_blank">Devan Rawn</a>.
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="onlineeducation">Online Education</a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitN684iWD3E-HlOI8grlHz9Vfs7cska-ZWK4E-kM-ixP1LREyV4MfZOVpQiPDi-iRs2udih5pu8KXsWXM7YcFHXlkMZWubY3ui9JyGz2XarvvWIzWzumO0s2dMyZhr1UtB_TYC8eZn0lQ/s1600/Capture333.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitN684iWD3E-HlOI8grlHz9Vfs7cska-ZWK4E-kM-ixP1LREyV4MfZOVpQiPDi-iRs2udih5pu8KXsWXM7YcFHXlkMZWubY3ui9JyGz2XarvvWIzWzumO0s2dMyZhr1UtB_TYC8eZn0lQ/s1600/Capture333.PNG" /></a><a href="http://class.ucanr.edu/course/view.php?id=8" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Free Online Beekeeping Course</span></a><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> "<a href="http://class.ucanr.edu/course/view.php?id=8" target="_blank">Honey Bees and Colony Strength Evaluation</a>"</span>
(You can log in as a guest) Recommended for beekeepers, inspectors
and farmers hiring bee pollinators. This online course from the
University of California is useful for all beekeepers from the beginner to
the professional. "The objective in developing this course was to
provide easily accessible information to improve the understanding of
basic honey bee biology, recommended colony strength evaluation practices,
and recognition of important diseases, pests, and parasites that impact
honey bees. The course consists of individual modules that provide
background information on honey bees as well as clear, consistent
recommendations for apiary inspection. Individuals can take advantage of
the training at their convenience. The modular approach requires short
blocks of time for each section and the viewer can proceed at their own
pace viewing modules in any order they wish. Modules covering basic
information may not be necessary for more experienced beekeepers or apiary
inspectors. However, for those less familiar with the process, training
modules can be re-visited as necessary. The existing information will be
updated when appropriate and additional topics may be added in the future.
Within each module, there are short quizzes to test for understanding. A
series of skills practice sets is also included in this online training to
improve your understanding of brood, frame, and cluster count evaluation.
Nothing can replace actual hands-on experience, so this course should be
considered as an overview of the colony strength evaluation process with
the aim to improve consistency of inspections." This course comes
with a workbook that you can view or download, </span><a href="https://app.box.com/s/73vzuho5kmph9fety5o1sdyropb80a85" target="_blank">Honey Bee Colony Assessment Workbook</a><span style="color: black;"> .</span>
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1. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/basic_bee_biology/intro/index.html" target="_blank">Course Introduction</a>
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2. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/basic_bee_biology/biology_lifecycle/story.html" target="_blank">Basic Bee Biology and Lifecycle</a>
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3. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/basic_bee_biology/hive/index.html" target="_blank">The Hive and Hive Organization</a>
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4. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/colony_strength/index.html" target="_blank">Colony Strength Evaluation</a>
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5. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/inspection_recommendations/index.html" target="_blank">Inspection Recommendations</a>
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6. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/basic_bee_suit/index.html" target="_blank">Bee Suit Basics</a>
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7. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/random_systematic/index.html" target="_blank">Random vs Systemic Selection</a>
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8. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/gen_random_numbers/index.html" target="_blank">Generating Random Numbers</a>
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9. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/other_things/index.html" target="_blank">Other Things You Might See In A Hive Or Apiary</a>
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10. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/skills_practice/bee_frames/story.html" target="_blank">Bee Frames</a>
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11. <a href="http://stream.ucanr.org/bee_modules/skills_practice/brood_area_estimate/story.html" target="_blank">Brood Area Estimates</a>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/first-year-care-for-your-nuc/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">First Year Beekeeping</span></a>
is presented by biologist, Randy Oliver on his website
<a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/" target="_blank">Scientific Beekeeping</a> which is one of the best sources of beekeeping information
available. "</span></span>I’ve attempted to distill 50 year’s of beekeeping experience into a short set
of instructions for starting out with bees in the Sierra Foothills. This
page provides some quick step-by-step notes for your first year of beekeeping,
written specifically for those starting with a nucleus hive or package bees
purchased from me, but generally applicable. Since the vast majority of
colony failures are due to lack of varroa management, I’ve covered this
subject more extensively. For a summary of treatment options, scroll to
the end (Randy Johnson)." As mentioned this website contains a wealth of
regularly updated information on most beekeeping subjects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviLSePUgxdr80rZbpKl1w7LFN7uUJXD1uFgBzhtY0Ysb1oXSwRxBlgm-xVvAAtHxSeS-ICHhPyXT8cAbU2ZqhZ6xmEE0w6NkG56yaW3KazThc8EEKka8t2ab6Pd9A8cnETBYgKOm5PZY/s1600/Capture+%25282%2529.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviLSePUgxdr80rZbpKl1w7LFN7uUJXD1uFgBzhtY0Ysb1oXSwRxBlgm-xVvAAtHxSeS-ICHhPyXT8cAbU2ZqhZ6xmEE0w6NkG56yaW3KazThc8EEKka8t2ab6Pd9A8cnETBYgKOm5PZY/s400/Capture+%25282%2529.PNG" /></a><a href="http://u.osu.edu/beelab/itunesu-course-beekeeping-and-honey-bee-biology-beta-testers-needed/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Ohio State University</span></a><span style="color: black;"> has created a free honey bee biology and beekeeping course based on
Dr. Reed Johnson's for-credit OSU Beekeeping Course. The free course
consists of video lectures, handouts and readings presented on iTunes which
is a free download. Unfortunately it's only available to those with
apple devices which means most people can not access it. The course is in
the testing phase, is extensive and consists of 138 segments covering every
aspect of bees and beekeeping including: Packages and Nucs; Package
Installation; Pheremones; Mites; Swarming; Vitellogenin; Queen rearing and
development; Foraging; Planting; Pesticides; Phenology; Nest Architecture;
Honey Extraction; IPM; Honey Flow; Honey Laundering; Commercial Pollination;
Drone Congregation; Dance Language; Feeding and Wintering; Honey
Crystalization; Apiary Sites; Nutrition; Pests and Diseases; Broodmapper;
Bee Races; and Bee Biology. O.S.U. is asking for volunteer beekeepers
to review the course and offer suggestions. The only suggestions I
would give of this great course are that a few of the videos are repeated
and that they be presented in order of learning. To access this course
and assist in it's development go to "</span><a href="https://itunes.apple.com/ca/course/beekeeping-honey-bee-biology/id1072789096" target="_blank">Beekeeping and Honey Bee Biology on iTunes. </a><br />
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<a href="http://ucanr.edu/sites/sandiegobees/Online_Beekeeping_Course/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beekeeping in San Diego County</span></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYkIRiDNajGETwkxG2VAJkwsnt3VaPPRPTmCL_Jcq0Ac8KcrmGlD0W8jxUC_rv_zDJ7Znjt5jEncjZ0bJot70D2abXAB91DVJfArYFnVmEHDsa9-DvbNBsv4mCBt5lNV0_iqy3wHxblI/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="981" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYkIRiDNajGETwkxG2VAJkwsnt3VaPPRPTmCL_Jcq0Ac8KcrmGlD0W8jxUC_rv_zDJ7Znjt5jEncjZ0bJot70D2abXAB91DVJfArYFnVmEHDsa9-DvbNBsv4mCBt5lNV0_iqy3wHxblI/s320/Capture.PNG" width="320" /></a>The University of California Cooperative Extension-San Diego County has
developed this self-paced online training course for beginning beekeepers
and as a refresher annual training for experienced beekeepers with hives
located in unincorporated areas of San Diego County. The course
consists of three modules and a 10-question quiz survey, which may be taken
separately. The entire course is approximately 30 minutes long. To
begin the course, click the button below and wait a moment for the course to
load in your Internet browser. If you are using Internet Explorer®, use the
'Direct Links,' below. Once started, you will be able to move through the
training using the forward or back arrows located at the bottom left and
right of your screen. You may also move back and forth through the course
using the slide navigation panel on the left. Note, module 2 includes
videos. Depending on your Internet connection, you may need to wait a few
moments for each video to load on-screen.
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At the end of the training, you will be provided a link to the quiz survey.
You may also access the quiz, directly, by clicking the button or direct
link below. To begin the survey, you will be required to enter your first
and last names and email address. Your information and quiz results will be
recorded.1 A summary of your quiz results will be provided at the end. To
keep a copy of your quiz results for your own records, you may print using
your computer's print-screen function.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58GoAL89Nr3PZ0AorjiV-W48YCuzdKcrHhyphenhyphenhgUo5lEfMAFe6yifnFOBy6dKGJTIQvSDd_yeMGizXiqGKZNz_3qxXrU2JolFWT5bqoeCF0p5lfw4UWnGgrCj84MTu46D_mGvoVwcSRURI/s1600/Bee+Md.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58GoAL89Nr3PZ0AorjiV-W48YCuzdKcrHhyphenhyphenhgUo5lEfMAFe6yifnFOBy6dKGJTIQvSDd_yeMGizXiqGKZNz_3qxXrU2JolFWT5bqoeCF0p5lfw4UWnGgrCj84MTu46D_mGvoVwcSRURI/s1600/Bee+Md.PNG" /></a><a href="http://www.thebeemd.com/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">The BeeMD</span></a>
is a diagnostic tool to help beekeepers identify honey bee health issues. The
BeeMD will be used in multiple modalities including computers and handheld
devices such as tablets and smart phones. The information on The BeeMD will be
continually evolving and updated as science and technology add new information
to the ability to diagnose and understand hive health. The BeeMD
originated as a project of the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign
(NAPPC) with funding from the USDA APHIS, the Rust Foundation, the Pollinator
Partnership and the University of Delaware. The founding team included the
University of Maryland, Jamie Ellis from The University of Florida, the
American Beekeeping Federation, and the Pollinator Partnership. The
BeeMD welcomes comments and photographs to expand the effectiveness of this
free service.<br />
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<br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://newbees101.wordpress.com/2015/07/12/begin-at-the-beginning/" target="_blank">Begin at the Beeginning</a>:</span> </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUKdfLG0-nJoULhzoTtGaRlVpk11GLDzxHXd9sWS4aQGlgRkMnFh56RhZMuvgzKTwp72ClrtL_OmdpEvKCfiyYlCmT6_gxlBBzWiDFSfP3PFcoQUu7iEHpSpz6fzp8xOihcAKx46p_VNM/s1600/Captureb.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="357" data-original-width="349" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUKdfLG0-nJoULhzoTtGaRlVpk11GLDzxHXd9sWS4aQGlgRkMnFh56RhZMuvgzKTwp72ClrtL_OmdpEvKCfiyYlCmT6_gxlBBzWiDFSfP3PFcoQUu7iEHpSpz6fzp8xOihcAKx46p_VNM/s320/Captureb.JPG" width="312" /></a></span></span>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">This is an introductory beekeeping course from master beekeeper
Janet Wilson which includes everything from hive components and acquiring
bees to seasonal management, diseases and pests. It is written from a
northwest perspective (West coast Vancouver, Coastal Washington State).
It's a fairly complete beginners course with links to expert resources
(i.e. Randy Oliver). "</span></span>Week by week we will explore together the canon of knowledge which is
Beginning Beekeeping. We will both cover the usual course outline for
beginning beeks, and chat about what we are finding in our hives, and in the
beeyard, at this time of year (we are beginning in mid July in the Pacific
Northwest, in an unprecedentedly dry and sunny summer). The main focus
of our learnings will be giving you tools to prevent colony loss.
Upwards of 80% of new beekeepers quit beekeeping in under three years, likely
out of frustration when their bees keep dying. Bees are precious, and
expensive. So we will emphasize what it takes to keep bees alive, using lots
of web content and resources."
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://bcourse.amazingbees.com.au/index.html" target="_blank">Beginner Beekeeping Course</a>: </span> </span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMkDWgDs8Yzf_VHRbT7voIC_ned9qXJ3A_BfFy85VohSkEFwq2XwivzRDzjfdB-12idBSjUHboR4F-FxruXtsBa8EmXubj3fKV6cPKCcwPDTPkeJ6gh1jFKt1qjw8CmdaUqT3TECqVh0/s1600/Captureaa.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="324" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMkDWgDs8Yzf_VHRbT7voIC_ned9qXJ3A_BfFy85VohSkEFwq2XwivzRDzjfdB-12idBSjUHboR4F-FxruXtsBa8EmXubj3fKV6cPKCcwPDTPkeJ6gh1jFKt1qjw8CmdaUqT3TECqVh0/s200/Captureaa.JPG" width="200" /></a></span></span>
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<br /><span style="color: black;">This is a beginner beekeeping course from <a href="https://amazingbees.com.au/" target="_blank">Amazing Bees</a> in Australia which includes bee biology, rules, regulations and
registration, hive inspection, honey extraction, swarming, queen
replacement, winter prep and feeding. It covers most everything a new
beekeeper in Australia needs to know.</span><br />
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<span><b>Jamie Ellis' <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0" target="_blank">Field Guide to Beekeeping</a></b></span><br />(use the above link for all 41 issues in Jamie's DropBox)<br />These
articles originally published in the <a href="https://americanbeejournal.com/" target="_blank">American Bee Journal</a>.<br /><br />Note: These PDF files may take several seconds to
download... patience!<br /><br />See Jaime's <a href="http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/cv/people/ellis/dl/Ellis_CV.pdf" target="_blank">Curriculum Vitae</a><br />
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1. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=1%2C+January+2014%2C+Introductions%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Introduction</a><br />2. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=2%2C+February+2014%2C+Why+Keep+Bees%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Why Keep Bees?</a><br />3. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=3%2C+March+2014%2C+Langstroth+Hive%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Langstroth Hive</a><br />4. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=4%2C+April+2014%2C+Personal+Protective+Equipment%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Personal Protective Equipment</a><br />5. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=5%2C+May+2014%2C+Hive+Tool+and+Smoker%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Hive Tool and Smoker</a><br />6. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=6%2C+June+2014%2C+Misc+Beekeeping+Equipment%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Miscellaneous Beekeeping Equipment</a><br />7. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=7%2C+July+2014%2C+Informational+Resources%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Informational Resources for Beekeepers</a><br />8. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=8%2C+August+2014%2C+Know+Your+Beekeeping+Goals%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Know Why You are Keeping Bees</a><br />9. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=9%2C+September+2014%2C+Choosing+Apiary+Site%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Choosing the Right Location for Your Apiary</a><br />10. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=10%2C+October+2014%2C+Hive+Configuration%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Hive Choice and Configuration</a><br />11. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=11%2C+November+2014%2C+Assembling+Supers%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Assembling Wooden Supers</a><br />12. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=12%2C+December+2014%2C+Assemblign+Frames%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Assembling Wooden Frames</a><br />13. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=13%2C+January+2015%2C+Acquiring+Bees+and+Queens%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Acquiring Bees and Queens</a><br />14. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=14%2C+February+2015%2C+Stocks+of+Bees+in+the+US%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Stocks of Bees in the United States</a><br />15. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=15%2C+March+2015%2C+Startup+Costs%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Basic Startup Costs Associated With Keeping Bees</a><br />16. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=16%2C+April+2015%2C+Installing+Packages+and+Nucs%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Installing Packages and Hiving Nucs</a><br />17. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=17%2C+May+2015%2C+Inspecting+New+Colonies%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Inspecting Your Newly Installed Colonies for the First Time</a><br />18. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=18%2C+June+2015%2C+Members+of+a+Honey+Bee+Colony%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Members of a Honey Bee Colony</a><br />19. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=19%2C+July+2015%2C+Components+of+Honey+Bee+Nest%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Components of a Honey Bee Nest</a><br />20. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=20%2C+August+2015%2C+External+Anatomy%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The External Anatomy of the Honey Bee</a><br />
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21. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=21%2C+September+2015%2C+Internal+Anatomy%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Internal Anatomy of the Honey Bee</a><br />22. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=22%2C+October+2015%2C+Tasks+of+Worker+Bees%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Tasks of a Worker Honey Bee</a><br />23. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=23%2C+November+2015%2C+Swarms%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Swarms</a><br />24. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=24%2C+December+2015%2C+Mating+Biology%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Mating Biology of Honey Bees</a><br />25. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=25%2C+January+2016%2C+Stings%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">The Honey Bee Sting</a><br />26. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=26%2C+February+2016%2C+Thermoregulation+and+Dance+Language%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Colony Level Thermoregulation and the Honey Bee Dance Language</a><br />27. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=27%2C+March+2016%2C+Superorganisms%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Honey Bee Colonies as Superorganisms: The Hive or the Honey Bee</a><br />28. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=28%2C+April+2016%2C+Honey+Bee+Biology%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">An Overview of Honey Bee Biology</a><br />29. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=29%2C+May+2016%2C+Mitigating+the+Threat+Your+Bees+Pose+to+Others%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Mitigating the Potential Threat Your Bees and Beekeeping Activities
Pose to Other People</a><br />30. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=30%2C+June+2016%2C+Beekeeping+Rules+and+Regulations%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Beekeeping Rules and Regulations</a><br />31. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=31%2C+July+2016%2C+Biotic+Stressors+of+Honey+Bees%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Biotic Stressors of Honey Bee Colonies</a><br />32. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=32%2C+August+2016%2C+Other+Stressors+of+Honey+Bees%2C+low+res.pdf" target="_blank">Other Stressors of Honey Bee Colonies</a><br />33. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=33%2C+October+2016%2C+Making+Money+With+Bees.pdf" target="_blank">Ways of Generating Income With Honey Bees</a><br />34. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=34%2C+November+2016%2C+Basic+Equipment+Needed+to+Extract+and+Bottle+Honey.pdf" target="_blank">Basic Equipment Needed to Extract and Bottle Honey</a><br />35. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=35%2C+December+2016%2C+Time+Commitment+Associated+with+Keeping+Bees.pdf" target="_blank">The Time Commitment Associated with Keeping Bees</a><br />36. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=36%2C+March+2017%2C+The+Big+3.pdf" target="_blank">Reasons for Colony Losses: The Big Three (and One Ugly Cousin)</a><br />37. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=37%2C+April+2017%2C+Honey+Bee+Development.pdf" target="_blank">Honey Bee Development</a><br />38. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=38%2C+May+2017%2C+Now+That+You+are+a+Beekeeper.pdf" target="_blank">Now That You Are a Beekeeper...</a><br />39. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=39%2C+July+2017%2C+Conducting+a+Hive+Inspection.pdf" target="_blank">Conducting a Hive Inspection</a><br />40. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=40%2C+October+2017%2C+Indispensable+Nuc.pdf" target="_blank">The Indispensable Nuc</a><br />41. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h0xfamw26tbsz32/AADa6ntEDyQlxHMX4OeTnXHDa?dl=0&preview=41%2C+December+2017%2C+What+to+get+your+Beekeeper+for+Christmas.pdf" target="_blank">What To Get Your Beekeeper for Christmas</a>
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<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
From
<a href="http://www.paulmikkelsen.com/Personal/Bees/JamieEllis.asp" target="_blank">Paul Mikkelsen's Beekeeping Resources</a>.
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/" target="_blank"><span>The Perfect Bee</span></a>
is a commercial beekeeping company that sells beekeeping equipment and
lessons. They also offer a free introductory beekeeping course in the
form of 40 emails. To sign up for the course go to
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/introductory-beekeeping-course" target="_blank">Perfect Bee Introductory Beekeeping Course</a> . Below is a sample from
<a href="http://www.paulmikkelsen.com/Personal/Bees/" target="_blank">Paul Mikkilsen's website</a>
which is a useful source of beekeeping information. <br />
<h1 style="text-align: -webkit-center;">
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/" target="_blank">Perfect Bee</a>
</h1>
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<td valign="top" width="40%">
Browse at <a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/" target="_blank">www.perfectbee.com</a><br />Save at <a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/store" target="_blank">www.perfectbee.com/store</a><br />Learn at <a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/course" target="_blank">www.perfectbee.com/course</a><br />Higher learning at <a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/academy-beekeeping-course" target="_blank">PerfectBee Academy</a><br />
</td>
<td valign="top">
Like at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/perfectbee" target="_blank">www.facebook.com/perfectbee</a><br />View at <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/perfectbee" target="_blank">www.pinterest.com/perfectbee</a><br />Join at <a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/colony-membership" target="_blank">www.perfectbee.com/colony-membership</a><br />
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br style="text-align: -webkit-center;" />
<table style="width: 90%px;" target="_blank">
<tbody>
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<td valign="top" width="40%">
<b>1. LEARN ABOUT BEES</b><br /><b>1.1 The Science of Bees</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/why-bees-rock?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+2+%3A+The+Incredible+Diversity+of+Bees&utm_campaign=Lesson+2+%3A+The+Incredible+Diversity+of+Bees" target="_blank">1.1-01. Why bees rock!</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/bee-species-diversity?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+2+%3A+The+Incredible+Diversity+of+Bees&utm_campaign=Lesson+2+%3A+The+Incredible+Diversity+of+Bees" target="_blank">1.1-02. The Incredible Diversity of Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/honey-bees-reproduce?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+3+%3A+How+Honey+Bees+Reproduce&utm_campaign=Lesson+3+%3A+How+Honey+Bees+Reproduce" target="_blank">1.1-03. How Honey Bees Reproduce</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/exploring-the-process-of-pollination" target="_blank">1.1-04. Exploring the Process of Pollination</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/cells-in-honeycomb" target="_blank">1.1-05. The Secrets of Honeycomb</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/why-bees-cant-fly?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+5+%3A+Why+Bees+Can+t+Fly&utm_campaign=Lesson+5+%3A+Why+Bees+Can+t+Fly" target="_blank">1.1-06. Why bees can’t fly</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/the-anatomy-of-bees" target="_blank">1.1-07. The Anatomy of Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/honey-bee-genetics" target="_blank">1.1-08. Honey Bee Genetics</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/honey-bee-life-cycle" target="_blank">1.1-09. The Honey Bee Life Cycle</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/how-bees-use-pheromones" target="_blank">1.1-10. How bees use pheromones</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/common-races-of-honey-bee" target="_blank">1.1-11. The Common Races of Honey Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/science-bees-overview" target="_blank">The Science of Bees Overview</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/the-benefits-of-bees" target="_blank">The Benefits of Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-science-of-bees/the-types-of-bees" target="_blank">The Types of Bees</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>1.2 The Life of Bees</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/how-bees-sense-and-react?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+7+%3A+How+Bees+Sense+And+React+To+Their+World&utm_campaign=How+Bees+Sense+And+React+To+Their+World" target="_blank">1.2-01. How Bees Sense and React to Their World</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/inside-and-out-of-the-beehive?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+6+%3A+Inside+and+Out+of+The+Beehive&utm_campaign=Lesson+6+%3A+Inside+and+Outside+of+The+Beehive" target="_blank">1.2-02. Inside and Out of the Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/why-and-how-bees-forage?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+8+%3A+Why+And+How+Bees+Forage&utm_campaign=Lesson+8+%3A+Why+And+How+Bees+Forage" target="_blank">1.2-03. Why and How Bees Forage</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/bees-make-honey?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+9+%3A+How+Do+Bees+Make+Honey%3F&utm_campaign=Lesson+9+%3A+Why+Do+Bees+Make+Honey%3F" target="_blank">1.2-04. How Do Bees Make Honey?</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/how-and-why-bees-swarm?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+10+%3A+Why+And+How+Bees+Swarm&utm_campaign=Lesson+10+%3A+Why+And+How+Bees+Swarm" target="_blank">1.2-05. Why and How Bees Swarm</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/role-of-the-drone-bee" target="_blank">1.2-06. The Role of the Drone Bee</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/role-queen-bee" target="_blank">1.2-07. The Role of the Queen Bee</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/the-role-of-the-worker-bee" target="_blank">1.2-08. The Role of the Worker Bee</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/sticking-with-propolis" target="_blank">1.2-09. Sticking with Propolis</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/understanding-the-honey-flow" target="_blank">2.1-10. Understanding The Honey Flow</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/fat-bees-and-the-winter-cluster" target="_blank">2.1-11. Fat Bees and the Winter Cluster</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>1.3 About Beekeeping</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/beekeeping-with-kids?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+11+%3A+Beekeeping+With+Kids&utm_campaign=Lesson+11+%3A+Beekeeping+With+Kids" target="_blank">3.1-01. Beekeeping with Kids</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/beekeeping-clubs-and-mentors?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+12+%3A+Finding+Beekeeping+Clubs+And+Mentors&utm_campaign=Lesson+12+%3A+Finding+Beekeeping+Clubs+And+Mentors" target="_blank">3.1-02. Finding Beekeeping Clubs and Mentors</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/top-beekeeping-books?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+13+%3A+Top+Beekeeping+Books+For+Your+Bookshelf&utm_campaign=Lesson+13+%3A+Top+Beekeeping+Books+For+Your+Bookshelf" target="_blank">3.1-03. Top Beekeeping Books For Your Bookshelf</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/natural-beekeeping" target="_blank">3.1-04. The Philosophy of Natural Beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/growth-of-urban-beekeeping" target="_blank">3.1-05. The Growth of Urban Beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/understanding-avoiding-and-coping-with-bee-stings" target="_blank">1.3-06. Understanding Bee Stings</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/beekeeping-and-the-neighbors" target="_blank">1.3-07. Beekeeping and the neighbors</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/learn-about-bees-stage-summary" target="_blank">Learn About Bees: Stage Summary</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/potted-history-beekeeping" target="_blank">A potted history of beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/about-beekeeping/is-beekeeping-right-for-you" target="_blank">Is Beekeeping Right For You</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/inside-and-out-of-the-beehive" target="_blank">Inside and Out of the Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/the-life-of-bees/how-bees-sense-and-react" target="_blank">How Bees Sense and React to Their World</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>2. YOUR BEEHIVE</b><br /><b>2.1 Beehive and Accessories</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/your-beehive-intro?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Lesson+14+%3A+A+Practical+Guide+To+Starting+Beekeeping&utm_campaign=Lesson+14+%3A+A+Practical+Guide+To+Starting+Beekeeping" target="_blank">2.1-01. A Practical Guide to Starting in Beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/what-bee-need" target="_blank">2.1-02. What Bees Need</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/what-beekeepers-need" target="_blank">2.1-03. What Beekeepers Need</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/common-types-of-beehive" target="_blank">2.1-04. The Common Types of Beehives</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/practicalities-of-setting-up-a-beehive" target="_blank">2.1-05. The Practicalities of Setting Up a Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/langstroth-beehive-in-detail" target="_blank">2.1-06. A Look at the Langstroth Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/a-detailed-look-at-the-warre-beehive" target="_blank">2.1-07. A Detailed Look at the Warre Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/a-detailed-look-at-the-top-bar-beehive" target="_blank">2.1-08. A Detailed Look at the Top Bar Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/foundation-or-foundationless" target="_blank">2.1-09. Foundation or Foundationless Beekeeping?</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/a-detailed-look-at-the-flow-hive" target="_blank">2.1-10. A Detailed Look at Flow Hive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/why-have-more-than-one-beehive" target="_blank">Why Have More Than One Beehive?</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/what-is-a-slatted-rack" target="_blank">What is a slatted rack and why use one?</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>2.2 Equipment and Clothing</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/beekeeping-and-use-of-smokers" target="_blank">2.2-01. Beekeeping with a smoker</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/beekeeping-equipment" target="_blank">2.2-02. Beekeeping equipment</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/beekeeping-protective-clothing-overview" target="_blank">2.2-02. Beekeeping protective clothing overview</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/tools-for-beekeepers-to-consider" target="_blank">2.2-03. Tools for beekeepers to consider</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/perspective-feeding-bees" target="_blank">2.2-04. Perspective on feeding bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/using-feeders-with-your-beehive" target="_blank">2.2-04. Using feeders with your beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/equipment-and-clothing/beekeeping-technology-and-science" target="_blank">2.2-05. Beekeeping and technology</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/parts-of-a-beehive" target="_blank">Parts of a Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/beehives-and-accessories/selecting-the-right-beehive-components" target="_blank">Selecting The Right Beehive Components</a>
</li>
</td>
<td valign="top">
<b>2.3 Starting Your Beehive</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/questions-for-the-new-beekeeper" target="_blank">2.3-01. Questions the new beekeeper should answer first</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/preparing-and-installing-your-beehive" target="_blank">2.3-02. Preparing and installing your beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/obtaining-bees-for-a-beehive" target="_blank">2.3-03. An overview of obtaining bees for a beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/guidance-for-the-new-beekeeper" target="_blank">2.3-04. Practical guidance for the new beekeeper</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/a-thriving-colony" target="_blank">A Practical Guide to a Thriving Colony</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/introduction-to-the-beehive-inspection" target="_blank">2.3-05. An introduction to the beehive inspection</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/beekeeping-advocacy" target="_blank">2.3-06. Beekeeping advocacy</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/family-and-friends-in-beekeeping" target="_blank">2.3-07. Involving family and friends in beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/obtaining-and-installing-a-package-of-bees" target="_blank">2.3-08. Obtaining and installing a package of bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/obtaining-and-installing-a-nuc-colony" target="_blank">2.3-09. Obtaining and installing a nucleus colony</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/intro-to-capturing-and-installing-a-swarm-of-bees" target="_blank">2.3-10. An introduction to capturing and installing a swarm of
bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/introduction-to-feeding-bees" target="_blank">2.3-11. An introduction to feeding bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/contrarian-positions-for-new-beekeepers" target="_blank">2.3-12. Contrarian positions every new beekeeper should
consider</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/introduction-to-the-brood-nest" target="_blank">2.3-13. An introduction to the brood nest</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/tracking-beehive-progress-and-keeping-records" target="_blank">2.3-14. Tracking beehive progress and keeping records</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/beekeeping-myths" target="_blank">2.3-15. Beekeeping myths for the new beekeeper to question</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/your-beehive-stage-summary" target="_blank">Your Beehive : Stage Summary</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/when-to-start-a-beehive" target="_blank">When To Start a Beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/planning-and-purchasing-your-beehive" target="_blank">Planning and purchasing your beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/buying-bees" target="_blank">Buying bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/where-to-place-a-beehive" target="_blank">Where to place a beehive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/bees-need-thrive-in-your-location" target="_blank">What Bees Need To Thrive In Your Location</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/your-beehive/starting-a-beehive/purchasing-and-installing-your-bees" target="_blank">Purchasing and installing your bees</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>3. A HEALTHY BEEHIVE</b><br /><b>3.1 Threat To Bees</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/a-healthy-beehive-intro" target="_blank">3.1-01. A Healthy Beehive: A Practical Guide to a Thriving
Colony</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/intro-to-colony-collapse-disorder" target="_blank">3.1-02. An Introduction to Colony Collapse Disorder</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/the-threat-of-robbing" target="_blank">3.1-04. The Threat of Robbing</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/small-hive-beetle-and-bees" target="_blank">3.1-05. Small Hive Beetle and Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/from-tiny-mice-to-big-bears-and-bees" target="_blank">3.1-06. From Tiny Mice to Big Bears</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/the-threat-of-american-and-european-foulbrood" target="_blank">3.1-07. The Threat of American and European Foulbrood</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/an-introduction-to-nosema-and-chalkbrood" target="_blank">3.1-08. An Introduction to Nosema and Chalkbrood</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/an-introduction-to-tracheal-mites" target="_blank">3.1-09. An Introduction to Tracheal Mites</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/the-threat-and-impact-of-varroa-mites" target="_blank">3.1-10. The Threat of Varroa Mites: Part 1</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/the-threat-of-varroa-mites-part-2" target="_blank">3.1-11. The Threat of Varroa Mites: Part 2</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/main-threats-to-bees" target="_blank">3.1-03. The Main Threats To Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees-overview" target="_blank">Threats To Bees Overview</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/threats-to-bees/a-thriving-colony" target="_blank">A Practical Guide to a Thriving Colony</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>3.2 Inspecting Your Beehive</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/big-things-to-check-during-a-hive-inspection" target="_blank">3.2-01. The Big Issues to Check at Every Inspection</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/the-challenges-of-cross-comb" target="_blank">3.2-03. The Challenges of Cross Comb</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/introduction-to-cross-comb" target="_blank">An Introduction to Cross Comb</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/managing-hive-capacity" target="_blank">3.2-04. Managing Hive Capacity</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/a-faq-for-the-new-beekeeper" target="_blank">3.2-05. A FAQ for the Committed New Beekeeper</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/learning-from-deadout-inspections" target="_blank">3.2-06. Learning From Deadout Inspections</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/queenlessness-in-your-hive" target="_blank">3.2-07. Queenlessness in Your Hive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/why-and-when-to-consider-requeening" target="_blank">3,2-08. Why and When to Consider Requeening</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/inspecting-and-understanding-the-brood-pattern" target="_blank">3.2-09. Inspecting and Understanding the Brood Pattern</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/splitting-a-hive" target="_blank">3.2-10. Splitting a Hive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/introduction-to-queen-rearing-part-1" target="_blank">3.2-11. An Introduction to Queen Rearing: Part 1</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/introduction-to-queen-rearing-part-2" target="_blank">3.2-12. An Introduction to Queen Rearing: Part 2</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/overwintering-honey-bees" target="_blank">3.2-13. An Introduction to Overwintering Honey Bees</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/moving-a-hive" target="_blank">3.2-14. Moving a Hive</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/inspecting-your-hive/recognizing-and-avoiding-swarms" target="_blank">Recognizing and Avoiding Swarms</a>
</li>
<br /><br /><b>3.3 Reaping The Rewards</b><br />
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/reaping-the-rewards/the-tangible-rewards-of-beekeeping" target="_blank">3.3-01. The Tangible Rewards of Beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/reaping-the-rewards/end-of-course-start-beekeeping" target="_blank">3.3-02. From the End of a Course to the Start of Beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/reaping-the-rewards/introduction-to-harvesting-honey-part-1" target="_blank">3.3-03. An Introduction to Harvesting Honey: Part 1</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/reaping-the-rewards/an-introduction-to-harvesting-honey-part-2" target="_blank">3.3-04. An Introduction to Harvesting Honey: Part 2</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/reaping-the-rewards/an-introduction-to-extracting-beeswax" target="_blank">3.3-05. An Introduction to Extracting Beeswax</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://www.perfectbee.com/a-healthy-beehive/reaping-the-rewards/making-money-from-beekeeping" target="_blank">3.3-06. Making Money from Beekeeping</a>
</li>
<li></li>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br /><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://egyankosh.ac.in/handle/123456789/41096" target="_blank">Certificate in Beekeeping</a>: </span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHtdDb6iOMIGkSm3y1wHcrYX8FFsrT0MVyethbwsIbAcZ9XIAGutPTuFnC1iTmFSbKltI81XIhoBVck5QDz6dAXy6mxTbB0nIE1raxj7gF0TRoddgn-VGt6SseaQM-MsAkxseUK-5_WA/s1600/Capturei.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="154" data-original-width="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHtdDb6iOMIGkSm3y1wHcrYX8FFsrT0MVyethbwsIbAcZ9XIAGutPTuFnC1iTmFSbKltI81XIhoBVck5QDz6dAXy6mxTbB0nIE1raxj7gF0TRoddgn-VGt6SseaQM-MsAkxseUK-5_WA/s1600/Capturei.JPG" /></a>
</div>
This is a fairly complete beginners beekeeping course from the Indira Ghandi
National Open University. The course focuses on beekeeping in India with
an awareness of the preference for the more productive introduced European
honey bee. The course covers subjects like bee biology, beekeeping
history, bee flora and pollination, seasonal management, pests and diseases,
hive products and the economics of beekeeping. The course is accompanied
by several manuals available to view or be downloaded from the University
website. <br />
<br /><br />
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.northof60beekeeping.com/education" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">North of 60 Beekeeping</span></a> For beekepers in the extreme north (<b>Yukon, N.W.T. and Alaska</b>). This website is a good source of beekeeping information specific
to northern latitudes. They include an education section which
covers all the basics from a northern perspective: Bee Biology
Basics, Getting Started, Northern Basics, </span></span>Bee Yard Setup Basics, Nuc Install, Hive Inspection Basics, Disease and
Pests, Northern Forage, Honey Harvest and Fall and Winter Preparation.
Their
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/yukonbees/" target="_blank">facebook group</a>.
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWCiYKqbYwaQF0Nv5uItwNS08ozyUlfMjQcifsBUWuyhaEUlW515Y6wq9Dp21R3na3Ko7g498BJguVL-8qqd-lzUenIkdfPbujqkdHSWceXaeYpxY61REerDW2cH7S8xnliOUyFYCpBAs/s1046/north+of+60.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="1046" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWCiYKqbYwaQF0Nv5uItwNS08ozyUlfMjQcifsBUWuyhaEUlW515Y6wq9Dp21R3na3Ko7g498BJguVL-8qqd-lzUenIkdfPbujqkdHSWceXaeYpxY61REerDW2cH7S8xnliOUyFYCpBAs/w640-h320/north+of+60.JPG" width="640" /></a>
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<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/programs/ANR/beginning-beekeeping.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Beginner Beekeeping Short Course</span></a>
from the Virginia Cooperative Extension.<br />
<ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-top: 0px;">
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/fell_class1_hb_biology_basics.pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Class 1: Honey Bee Biology - The Basis of Beekeeping (Fell)</a><br style="box-sizing: border-box;" /></span>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/quesenberry_flowers_class2_beekeeping_equipment.pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;">Class 2: Equipment and Hive Location (Quesenberry and Flowers)</span></a>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/flowers_fell_class3_getting_started_locating_bees.pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; outline: 0px;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;">Class 3: Getting Started and Locating Bees (Flowers and Fell)</span></a>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/flowers_class4_overview_yearly_management(1).pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;">Class 4: Overview of Yearly Management (Flowers)</span></a>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/flowers_class6_monthly_management.pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;">Class 5: Monthly Management (Flowers)</span></a>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/fell_bee_diseases.pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;">Class 6: Bee Diseases (Fell)</span></a>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<a href="https://carroll.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/carroll_ext_vt_edu/kreowski_class7_managing_maladies.pdf" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #660000; font-family: inherit;">Class 7: Managing Maladies (Kreowski)</span></a>
</li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; line-height: 1.8; list-style-type: none;">
<br />
</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://planbeeproject.eu/bee-course" target="_blank">The PlanBee Beekeeping Training Course</a> </span>(Europe)<br />
Plan BEE aims at the development of an apiculture training game for adults
supporting the development of beekeeping. The Plan BEE serious game will serve
as single information point that guides potential beekeepers on how to start a
lucrative business depending on their own needs and background by diminishing
risks related to traditional beekeeping. At the same time, the project aims at
increasing the bee population in the wild by promoting apiculture.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>Beekeeping Tests</u></span><br />
<br />
The legendary master beekeeper Dana Stahlman has an online course which is
being worked on at present but he has a test for the beginner, advanced and
master beekeeper which are useful tools. Check it out at
<a href="https://www.gobeekeeping.com/Test.htm" target="_blank">Gobeekeeping</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="regional">Regional</a>
</span></span><b></b>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcel86UGT6rp9Vtc42vsm6rF3q66t-hFjg9Ixvia-rRzkZQDOfi3F-HYSd2uz32tg27aOwvxyklwnBz2rfHD5Xh_z9CpDj2bYPNoQGhECGfIJFNgRcHzahJAYqfWmQdd1guPVYi0R4DiA/s1600/Capturewww.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcel86UGT6rp9Vtc42vsm6rF3q66t-hFjg9Ixvia-rRzkZQDOfi3F-HYSd2uz32tg27aOwvxyklwnBz2rfHD5Xh_z9CpDj2bYPNoQGhECGfIJFNgRcHzahJAYqfWmQdd1guPVYi0R4DiA/s200/Capturewww.PNG" width="188" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldm0tUnpIRFcwX2c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in West Virginia</a> Beekeeping in West Virginia began with individuals keeping
bees in log hives often called gums. Some bees were managed in hives made
out of rough sawed lumber and they were called box hives. Records show
that these honeybee colonies produced from 14 to 24 pounds of honey on
average each year.</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleUZqS2MtejFiR0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">West Virginia Beekeepers Guide</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZjg2dXhTN2wzdVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping for Beginners (Missouri)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM1RBY1RLcFJITkE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beginning with Bees (Louisiana State University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcHpseW9FTVJ6ODA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Best Honey Bee Management Practices (Florida)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PcM8bKaFVL-zip__C5SgSyAi9bX3946S/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Backyard Beekeeping in Florida by Richard Martyniak</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldUphekFGWlBxYjA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Florida Beekeeping Calendar</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k9VsQOOQzebV9oXiXcaLgcivz5OgI-n3/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">East Texas Beekeepers Monthly Guide Book (E.T.B.A.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fwhOdQX4FewCQ9Ayhl5juiE_SKHtDOP2/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in San Diego County (University of California)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUEJjTUs2eWxwdTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in California (l971 $1)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JqTU3zawM6iVC07hAhufiy_7NGv9ZX_v/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Residential Beekeeping in Oregon (University of Oregon)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcHNreVRYWHphd00/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Integrated Hive Management for Colorado Beekeepers</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wz4EyjPQzuxjBeaZCbSizF8eDrgYAw04/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Calendar for Northern Utah</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSDJlUHRQWmVxVDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bees and Beekeeping (U. of Georgia)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbmMwMExFb3BUT2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Seasons of beekeeping in South Arkansas by Jerry Freeman</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLWpydlY0NmVET2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping In Tennessee (University of Tennessee)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i1YzsiYeExmZtGzv6gvaLRXCH3ZnGXtL/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Kentucky Beekeeping: A Guide for beginners by Thomas Webster</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRUFidkFIaVBLekE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beginning Beekeeping for Kentuckians (University of Kentucky)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaEZYMkVBZlNEOFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Kentucky Beekeeper's Calendar (Kentucky State University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTk5ENFcyNG1wLW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Guide to Beekeeping in West Virginia</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM2tmWjlmY1ctblE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee IPM for Mid Atlantic States</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYWQzMjdqS0NiY2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeper's Calendar (North Carolina)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYnk0YklSNWJtbzA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Connecticut Beekeeping</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlY0ExNGtoWjlTQ2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Connecticut Beekeeping (Seasonal Management Guide)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HBLusNg6b6uPAOupIl7544Iwq3Lr-8TV/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Seasonal Beekeeping Management (Ohio State Beekeepers Association)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IXFmi633-Yt61_fySx5FBf1LulW7c7fc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Hawaii by Lorna Tsutsumi and Darcy Oishi</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWVlJX1NSLWh6dUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The What and How of Beekeeping in Hawaii by Lorna Tsutsumi</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMTNmcW9RbER1clE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Alaska (University of Alaska)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb0NDRVpNcS1neE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Northern Cold Weather Beekeeper's Calendar</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla2pqWXFKZUV3ZFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the United States (USDA l980)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQWhRWDB0ZmRNRlk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Western Canada - Szabo (1981)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BxalXyG_o0HPjBzIXcFIc8P5RMDJFJBi/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Keeping Barkyard Honey Bees (Caribou Regional District)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vfJgK4S_OflmAZGjMAqNb7LKHUz7Pi5H/view" target="_blank">British Columbia Beekeeping Calendar (B.C. Government)</a>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S5h6pAFAdld76ZTHbVGLi6wN5g7vwq3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Spring Checklist (Ontario Beekeepers Association)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTFptXzJKa2pyZFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ontario Beekeepers - Preparing for Winter by Paul Kozak (Provincial
Apiarist)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZVpEMElFeGYwNHM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the Maya Region of Mexico</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld0YtdGU4c1I0M2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Keeping Africanized Bees in Belize</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JqOWY5QhaOADXABaaUtMVdLwzCf4Hk3e/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Jamaica (Government of Jamaica)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlXy1IeDlwQ2hYbjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Creative Beekeeping ideas from Eastern Europe</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IvLGb1kCY8bgvXAmAF_bPFbpenQQr-X_/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Spring Checks (National Bee Unit - Britain)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbTFpZDBUVlp6TVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Basics of Beekeeping by M. Peterson (Scotland)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kq9vwyrlECckI828lKN0lW0GYCv214pZ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">My Beekeeping Year by Ian Craig (Scotland, monthly guide, S.B.A.)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaGswUE5nWUVIY2c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Seasonal beekeeping in Scotland</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcmNjYld1U01tX0k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Scotland - forage</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSmVhQzA5VTM2RG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Scotland - bee biology</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQTRsVGZVOFZHZzg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ireland Beekeeping Calendar</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTTFvU1JYSU9xS3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Greenland by Ole Hertz (B.F.D.)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.northof60beekeeping.com/home" target="_blank">North of 60 Beekeeping (Yukon, N.W.T., Alaska)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lHy2JNCvs0k9fhAFYT5GLErdf3sDDM_q/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Greece by F. Hatjina (Hellinic Institute of Apiculture)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYjBEMkRNNWh3ekE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping at Tel Rehov (Israel)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMy1DRElUZldjR0E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Syria</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldEMwY2JDX0Q5ZjQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Asia</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV2piTWo5OXhIV2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in Vietnam</a> </span>
</div>
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZTM2TWhUa0c0WGs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the Phillipines</a></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlN3dFNngtR2tOV1U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Training for Farmers in the Hymalayas</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FIsLnnmsb-mFwiLwHAvfS1t5fGnXaF0t/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hymalayan Honey Bees and Beekeeping in Nepal by R. Thapa</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/14oN1ewrfzt5Mmd4xc2oOoJqpnnHK_ayw/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Improving Indian Bee Hives and Beekeeping by J. Abbott (M.I.T.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1374ZHcn8hbd5j-ZvmxHcI23W8h8o3p4p/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nagaland Beekeeping and Honey Mission (Northeast India)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWTZzX19rSGdXcWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beginner Beekeeping in Developing Countries</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZXp4Ym8zcDlTSFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Basic Beekeeping Manual (Africa)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbVIyNVFFS3hwaVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">African Organic Beekeeping Training Manual</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSURnZDQ4WDRJd2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Beginners Guide to Beekeeping in Kenya </a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uTJK3p-R9_5bUXXxbBm0Radrf-EqVqlt/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in S.W. Ethiopia by P. Gallmann and H. Thomas</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVFFHVDdfTFdFX2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Hive Construction and Beekeeping Training for Zimbabwe Youth</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleVgxR2kwQzB2aE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Training Manual (Uganda)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jlUwW0iV1-nbd3iABaRpq3qtjZX99iiN/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Practical Guide for Organic Beekeepers in Africa (EPOPA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/11RcCNN6do4UowT7onIsnRUQuv3qCL2Bw/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bees and Red Light (Night time hive inspection in Africa - B.F.D.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lnAQyUI11KQ_0wSltFN9SZFzQnIcWo1y/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">People and Bees (Government of Tanzania)</a>
</div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<div style="color: black;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNi1Pb1laLVl4cnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping in the Tropics</a>
</span>
</div>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRmJJdXIyOXJkM2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Australian Beekeeping Guide (State Government Victoria)</a>
</div>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNXVDMHZ0Q3dteWs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Biosecurity Manual for the Honey Bee Industry (Australian Government)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/15lZKMFTfuiMwcre3IrxRghXS16_PrzV9/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Best Management Practices for Beekeeping (Australian Government)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cSLLaGlSGfhV31G-kun1NYeC1H-dqYdO/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Asian Honey Bee Manual (Australian Government)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/12gQuSEs8uLPmNkRT71Z6NEriF_DwIHvF/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Easy Beekeeping for Hobbyists in New Zealand by Tudor Caradoc-Davies</a>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="beebiology">Bee Biology</a> </span><br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G32sko4btIQ" width="560"></iframe>
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This is the first of a 9 part video series,
<a href="http://www.understandingbeeanatomy.com/" target="_blank">Understanding Bee Anatomy</a>
by Dr. Ian Stell<br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/BmQL8oEFyVE" target="_blank">The multifunctional glands of the honey bees's head</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/Myu4pOONbyc" target="_blank">The honey bees's eyes and vision</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/kh479v_hhoA" target="_blank">The remarkable brain of the bee</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/Myu4pOONbyc" target="_blank">The honey bees's eyes and vision</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/hI6lBv5jo5s" target="_blank">Anatomy of the bee antennae</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/RdTiPQDF7-A" target="_blank">Bee metamorphosis: Remarkable internal changes</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/ql0OyLXeRuQ" target="_blank">How do bees bite and suck?</a><br />
<a href="https://youtu.be/tX7j-uj3U5U" target="_blank">The mandibles of the honey bee</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSKkPEBd2BblivX6EDQizGPet-6MfAzmjFDKIS1rzTBz_cCWQoKnoIEysCZTsbGFOYWgkjpCR478Bkdiu4QnngAYsm3iwmsn892EO0QaQ1y47yRlJUonvcQn4q_401-NSm5dWLpKRFWU/s1600/5dcc8897acbfd9ddabf220f28373d0ef.jpg" style="clear: right; color: black; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSKkPEBd2BblivX6EDQizGPet-6MfAzmjFDKIS1rzTBz_cCWQoKnoIEysCZTsbGFOYWgkjpCR478Bkdiu4QnngAYsm3iwmsn892EO0QaQ1y47yRlJUonvcQn4q_401-NSm5dWLpKRFWU/s320/5dcc8897acbfd9ddabf220f28373d0ef.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTjJEVE5SZDhidXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Internal Anatomy of the Honey Bee (Texas A and M University)</a>
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<div style="color: black;">1. Digestive and excretory systems.</div>
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2. Circulatory, respiratory, and nervous systems.
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<div style="color: black;">3. Endocrine system.</div>
<div style="color: black;">4. Reproductive organs.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT1puVlhxZkFiR1U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Microscope Atlas of the Honey Bee (U.S.D.A.)</a></span><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K-kaliikx6c_A_KHcZ_o8wfgmyKgYqvB/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Basic Bee Biology and Identification (The Xerces Society)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/103GgU-hKruY7le275ZigXrnNenVKtWci/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Basic Bee Biology for Beekeepers (MAAREC)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QDlZ886xGHYUWdhy-fIpKeaFvhH-WPc2/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Biology by Dr. Debbie Delaney (University of Delaware)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ezarD0hFreFzLKbLKRIGoY3jO_blLKAt/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Biology by Rick Fell (Virginia Tech)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YC1NMRR6TSQ4g_3o1gWFbQCF3NYOOnHR/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Biology and Anatomy of the Honey Bee by D. Lesco and T. Lulec</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F4yH4RVv44-T8RxqHZAzWUlXDnKlwaA3/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Biology of Bees - Hymenoptera Apoidea (Russian Academy of Sciences)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w0NZPhhf6AmRYFuZo5g3vfXGUCdrdXjV/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Biology of the Honey Bee (CIHEAM)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNk9XQ1JEQzRaRGs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Biology And External Morphology of Bees (Oregon State University)</a>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRVluOV9KS3ZkZXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">An Introduction to Bee Biology by David Stone</a></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-EOuGJXDlU4Jhq98Rc4hRVnW5bNB-FXg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Biology of the Honey Bee by M. Kilani (Tunisia)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldUhycDkxcGpQaTA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Body Parts Identification (bwars.com)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMEI3NUJXTW1Mejg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Body Parts Glossary (bwars.com)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUzZzR05wVWYtVHM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Pheromones (Texas A and M University)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYjlyVTd2b21YcWs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Chemistry - Pheremone Communication (Ohio State University)</a>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld3ltazYtbGxSMmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How microbes work for honey bees by D. Sammataro</a> </span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR1gySEZHM2FtUnc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Respiratory System</a>
</span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qDgozpWcjyKBSR6IG3W1eTd1-QLUFVcf/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Anatomy of the Honey Bee by R.E. Snodgrass (l910)</a></span>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PqoZvVu1E7s" width="560"></iframe>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">This video, "Biology of the Honey Bee" is presented by Dr. Jamie Ellis,
Professor of Entomology from the University of Florida.</span>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Videos</b></span>
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<a href="https://youtu.be/ZiOYwBoKvSA" target="_blank">Bee Biology</a>
with Larrry Connor from Wicas Press
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<a href="https://youtu.be/0wsHqbAGMkQ" target="_blank">The Biology of Wintering Bees</a>
by Medhat Nasr, Provincial Apiarist, Alberta, Canada
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="basicbeekeepinginformation">Basic Beekeeping Information</a>
</span></span><b></b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilz2BzjQx5Bnpaf11FdDHEjrelA1pwTyl-EdapXYnDbQLFwS33Qbz_iMniYPcFHryMNhQVbMm9K0hxLtXkl9jIVqD_lTigbPXfMKAut8-UyVzIIrMloCoplqpfzWE3rMrbRcJdzqONsbE/s1600/Captureiiiii.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilz2BzjQx5Bnpaf11FdDHEjrelA1pwTyl-EdapXYnDbQLFwS33Qbz_iMniYPcFHryMNhQVbMm9K0hxLtXkl9jIVqD_lTigbPXfMKAut8-UyVzIIrMloCoplqpfzWE3rMrbRcJdzqONsbE/s1600/Captureiiiii.PNG" /></span></a><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVzZzeTlXZkVKVEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Western Honey Bee Subspecies</a> The European Honey bee or Western Honey Bee (Apis Mellifera)
is a species of honey bee. The genus Apis is Latin for "Bee" and
mellifera comes from the Latin meli meaning "honey" and ferre meaning "to
bear". Hence the scientific name means "honey-bearing bee".
The name was coined in 1758 by Carolus Linnaeus who, realizing that
bees do not bear honey, but nectar, tried later to correct it to Apis
Mellifica (honey-making bee) in a subsequent publication. However,
according to the rules of synonymy in zoological nomenclature the older
name has precedence. </span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSnVvdldYUjVmaGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Guide by Mike Alsop (Different hive types)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FS7tUZ7O23pFRwxarnSHnjcfNzBcHUv8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Equipment list for beginning beekeepers (Langstroth) by Tom Chester</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fm9vqaT4OZ5npuk_4rEAX8aPfYqLOkMH/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Keeping Bees in Mediums by Landi Simone</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gCpXv1fuiFjGKrjmwU3Zp6ANHkjXzeja/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Transitioning deep frame nucs to medium boxes
(centralmarylandbees.org)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OdA5HdknHPMkG_vxETf8QCUgYoOvha4O/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making Plastic Foundation work for you and your bees by Grant Gillard</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ScejcCXVUbal7w4B62QWa25lB_ZWmmlG/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Screened bottom boards (Comparison to solid) by Australian Government</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/10o6MkTzPa6L023GPwB3Jn_zwpALoJ7dn/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Working with Screened Bottom Boards by Landi Simone</a>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlblRnWDZ3VVNBNUE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Species by Nicola Bradbear (F.A.O of the U.N.)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-rOrk_zMBpG2X-n7voy5owU8-KqC3ARt/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">European Honey Bee Races and Traits</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/14yZbTXVzCzqAFCgOm9gdwLhjtsnxeG0t/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">European honey bee subspecies and their traits</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMGZIak44Mmp0S1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Characteristics of Races of Honey Bees (ironbee.us)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVjlJNWQ5NDhUR28/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Different Types of Honey Bees (N.Carolina Cooperative Extension)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZVZRWURFU1VXNnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Breeds by Eversweet Apiaries</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaERwRDR1VkpLYVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Best Bee by George Imirie (Italian, Carniolan, Buckfast ...)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV0hWV1E3TjQ1bm8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Races of Honey Bees in North America by Mann Lake</a>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTXQ4RGgtMndQZjA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Comparison of Russian and Italian Bees (NC State University)</a></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BUwyMO-osdQxIh4bhPg6Tin9mgB2Mt3W/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee: Diversity, Castes and Life Cycle (Haryana Agricultural
University, India)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZ1NLVlMwdUEwaEE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Locations by ABC (backyardbees.ca)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fV1iVmsziP8HgnKePLnFXH_dxKunTxIa/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Placement</a>
</div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOXZ2S1o0ckU2ZzQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Keeping Bees in
Populated Areas - Tips
for suburban
beekeepers (MAAREC)</a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldFVObVRZT0pSb3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Division of labour in Honey Bees by Brian Johnson</a> </span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb1RHbHJjcW90T0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hiving a Package of Honey Bees (University of Minnesota)</a></span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IB_KwZqOcQeLVO40vZKEbCMqnJP5s3vS/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Package Bees: Handling, hiving and spring management (B.C.
Government)</a> </span>
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<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT0hyOGl4WXQ2NW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to install a package of bees (N. Carolina State University)</a></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/169HUrsT5XlOvs7UYOUuVIr-KopZiSBUr/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Cold Weather Suggestions for Package Bees (Brushy Mountain Bee Farm)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/10BeNs1cFXrg9imXrPikdx3kYwaIpmNIu/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Care and Installation of Package Bees by Dana Stahlman</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSXltVzRHMjNVbzQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Introduction Cage (robo.bushkillfarms.com)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcm9FU2c1ZjhiZ2c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Introduction (British Beekeepers Association)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tefP9fwIgvcIN3DnbNyhoB1NoywlgdFb/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Bee Introduction by Dana Stahlman</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1piznznnfskSCOnN9SJCJ14pEVvWg5jbI/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Survey of Queen source and Winter Survival</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVGZsa3A0S3ViMFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">7 ways to find the queen</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYWRSQV9IUG1XTXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Marking Colours</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTElkN0Yyd1NBNG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Successful Requeening by Randy Oakley</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlc3hxQmo1NmNOTDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Season Plan (Month by month) by A. Hawkins</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbXlucVhtTTFXWlU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bees, Neighbours and Placing Hives (B.B.A.)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaUlPbVlnQmFTdDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Monitoring and Record Keeping</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DpF_jDlKaaRinDxQFe8zUdF081W4L-YB/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Hive Inspection Guide by Bill Evans</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM0lCellfWXhuV2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The first year of beekeeping by Dr. Deborah Delaney (U. of Delaware)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I7GZkCrkmdiP85as1K1G6WMc-OkEnu-q/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">First Year Care for your Nuc or Package by Randy Oliver
(scientifibeekeeping.com)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/14DXXtFLTA-HOU9ClEvnRpZvM2CSjPEAU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring Management by Dana Stahlman</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/18CUDHycKghPAyRg5PyWhRiqwRUVGiR8j/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring Management Guide (Canadian Maritime Provinces)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dReCriHg3O7s3PXsaXfbNy4m7nTAOoGQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring reversal not good management for all areas? by Walt Wright</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Cv9gS_ayCMDDobwYWNPKW74bJiUZwXr/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping by Wikibooks</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/12thqZ6AUMaand8R450aEo4BRKG4dcrgc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping 101 by Nick McDonald</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbkhRV2FQNXRyR00/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Management 101 by Deirdre Perot Lightsey</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/17oLevHmj1ScSsG6l1Uc3Gl83cKaZbk8y/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Frame Reading by Dewey Caron</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQ2lVTDUzNF9nMFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen cells in my hive (Welsh Government and FERA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaTkzSEY3eUZTZHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to deal with a colony that is requeening itself by Wally Shaw</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRnk4ZVNDb2FGd1U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Equalization of bee colony strength by Khalil Hamdan</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcTR2YU0tU3NnUjQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Phenomena of Bee Bearding by Khalil Hamdan</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUzgyVDJZMURNaHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Honey Bee Dance Language (N.C. State University)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb2VJRjFaYnN1b0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Robbing Behavior in Honey Bees (University of Florida)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlX0VNV2x6LWhhY1k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Robber Bees by Khalil Hamdan</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYTRRTi1mQ1VNblE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Preventing Robbing by Dr. Eric Mussen (U.C. Davis)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JHDw-aAE5NzN4mvyapVdd_Ku00864dMH/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Robbing Screens (When and how to use)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSC00dXN0OFlDZ3c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Egg laying Worker Bees by Khalil Hamdan</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T-_aWUZuu-NWw1m_4cjw4Dri08cumtcM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Requeening a drone laying colony by Joe Lewis</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcFNBS0JwWVR3Tzg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Imirie Requeening Method (George Imirie)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZXFMZmNqZEowVk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Upward Ventilation by Malcolm Sanford (U. of Florida)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaUk1aXRrN1lFaW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Advantages of using Open Mesh floors by M.W. Shaw</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMjFkdWJ3cExFemM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Replacing Brood Comb (BeeBase)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Uqzkxb5Ln-52qZYAdIE6w762zad1H1G3/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bailey Comb Change Method (Replacing old comb)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR05VRFhFOGRuQ0E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Replace that Old Comb by Jennifer Berry</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WtS3Tmy5KtJI5ngqpUPZ8yCrJKuEZyqL/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring Comb Culling by Carole Booth</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlalNFWmpkMUN1YVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">New vs Used Comb (honeybeeworld.com Alberta)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleW1ac2NPUjlVWW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Fumigating Comb (National Bee Unit and FERA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wVGLpg6rn03ogsZ8TDHH_k0KBxnawfrL/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ozone fumigation of combs by Rosalind James (U.S.D.A.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTnpnQ1o2S3dOSUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Effects of comb age on a honey bee colony (University of Georgia)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUFczeW5CTGk2QTA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Comb Management from Welsh Government</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSHpYT2FfR0p0cUU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Cross wiring wax foundation by John Pashia</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNHdkWW5Xc2FrQ0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Apiary Hygiene (B.B.A.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcFQ4anMtVl8xSFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Apiary and Hive Hygiene (FERA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldmhJRWtyVU51V00/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hygiene in the Apiary (E.U. Bee Research Institute)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUFIxNXpmbGVMT0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Apiary Hygiene and Quarantine (National Bee Unit)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVzJqTXJpNjVfR3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Cleaning and Sterilization (National Bee Unit)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlei1Pc3pSLTE3TE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Disinfection of Beekeeping Equipment (National Bee Unit and FERA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR3AxS2xzQks2enc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Disinfection of Plastic Hives (National Bee Unit and FERA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldVg3U0U2SUJsR0k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Using Second Hand Equipment (National Bee Unit and FERA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oH04Glvmmt5ZmM6NZ5n-vSo67Q3IP5R5/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Cleaning Frames by Scott Williams (beyond the torch and scrape)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM1Q0TGNkY1dlS3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Smoker Maintenance (University of Minnesota)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N-NgEKoazrq3rEfa5q4a-UKr5jzRuP9_/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to maximize honey production by Khalil Hamdan</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Y7YznzNduo0b3ydtbl6K_ptF8RX5tFA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Management for Honey Production by Walt Wright</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gwS1nrUEQtIivb83OqInrmXYwuCZRIKt/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Managing Honey Bee Populations for greater honey yield by Kathy Keatley
Garvey</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YVTBG78wIWe6yAfdKTUPNfNRuSdF7zbV/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Profitable Honey Production (Ireland, teagasc.ie)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUjlLOFBsUm0ydk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Removing Honey from the Hive (N.S.W. Agriculture)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZlQwQzVEOGFRbnc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Collection and Extraction by D. Askquith-Ellis</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYkl0RHBYWDVkVlk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Extracting your Honey (Mann Lake)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hw7X8iWgOzcF9vF5g3f5ZiEQdvLZcYXu/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Guide to Honey Extraction</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSDMyUU1JeFhDVVk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Different types of Honey Extraction</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcW1ZZDNTNFFxdUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Extracting without an Extractor</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWjFidTM3WW81V1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Moving Hives</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTFVCd0FJYnVsMTA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Moving Bees (MAAREC)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR0Q2UHMxWk5EVTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The many uses of a Snelgrove Board by M.W. Shaw</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xz8f0e5ew9dXb0_XRXs8_yy46dSBkabz/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen excluder or honey excluder by G.W. Hayes (l985)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/19HrwMYPWSO0aCZUzNignAhQ06sENrP4W/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Shook Swarm Benefits (National Bee Unit)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nMNzN2sbuw1L0EG3FUAci-dWBIsuuBgc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Shook Swarm Technique</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Us1Ts9ku048NlQ904CvB9NMZ3nO42okw/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Rose Hive Method by Tim Rowe</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tHH2jJ6LLGe-G6uI6VPJrLXsVcEjZLUK/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Washboarding in Feral Honey Bees by James Taulman</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JJ1ywOHBlOWCq-0HqMdb3f-oupWrKN1p/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">What makes a honey bee scout? (Oxford University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb2JwTUtsZlBJZ3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">City of Vancouver Beekeeping By-Law</a>
</div>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM3dDN1BISHZRQVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hobby beekeeping in the city of Vancouver</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbG5RZHNhcE1va0k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Useful Beekeeping Websites</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lHy2JNCvs0k9fhAFYT5GLErdf3sDDM_q/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Glossary</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BKYQQNfTvl6imoqPrgUTjrAgbrsxyDgD/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Glossary of terms use in Beekeeping</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8AdQUCWLVZaMj_4IhxqWtWsL3-hDXAF/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Flow Frame Instructional Manual</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VYJAlyYsovnMZNjkG_G5J-jjsJDBPsqk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Keeping a hive at someone's home written agreement</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FssxgHwNRlJubf0mkN_eaOC8C6uJ4FWV/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey and Infant Botulism by John Durkacz (S.B.A.)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pRBk4DLx0M1AtRhoAePFAHnfeimsOoGa/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Sting Pain Study by Michael Smith (Cornell University)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ylblBv1p_SMPRl10rRWR9r3-ja7iSHRL/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Normal and allergic reactions to insect stings</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C35uSC9lfeMXTxehBJZ1xqDvvqkDv2Ej/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Odds of death by stings</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>Informative Beekeeping Websites:</u></b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/" target="_blank">Dave Cushman's website</a><br />
<a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/" target="_blank">Scientific Beekeeping (Randy Oliver)</a><br />
<a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm" target="_blank">Michael Bush's website</a><br />
<a href="https://beeinformed.org/" target="_blank">Bee Informed</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ohiostatebeekeepers.org/" target="_blank">Ohio State Beekeepers</a><br />
<a href="http://articles.extension.org/pages/23694/status-report-on-the-health-of-the-us-honey-bee-industry#.U_-Tvnbp8_c" target="_blank">Cooperative Extension</a><br />
<a href="https://ext.vt.edu/search-results.html?q=beekeeping" target="_blank">Virginia Cooperative Extension</a><br />
<a href="http://beesource.com/" target="_blank">Beesource</a>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://beemaster.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=7n508d47v8svsd1idvsmo4qes1&" target="_blank">Beemaster</a><br />
<a href="http://pollinator.org/" target="_blank">Pollinator Partnership</a><br />
<a href="https://xerces.org/" target="_blank">Xerces Society</a><br />
<a href="https://www.projectapism.org/" target="_blank">Project Apis m.</a><br />
<a href="https://agdev.anr.udel.edu/maarec/" target="_blank">MAAREC</a><br />
<a href="http://www.beeculture.com/" target="_blank">Bee Culture</a><br />
<a href="https://americanbeejournal.com/" target="_blank">American Bee Journal</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thebeemd.com/" target="_blank">The BeeMD</a>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.paulmikkelsen.com/Personal/Bees/bookmarks.asp" target="_blank">Paul Mikkelsen's Beekeeping Resources</a>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://nwbee.ca/education-2/" target="_blank">NWBA Education </a><br />
<a href="http://www.fao.org/search/en/?cx=018170620143701104933%3Aqq82jsfba7w&q=beekeeping&cof=FORID%3A9&siteurl=www.fao.org%2Fpublications%2Fen%2F&ref=www.fao.org%2Fwaicent%2Ffaoinfo%2Fagricult%2Fags%2FAgsi%2Fpub%2FPUB214.htm&ss=1783j390391j10" target="_blank">Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations</a>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://www.betterbee.com/instructions-and-resources/how-to-be-a-beekeeper.asp?utm_source=Betterbee+Contact+List&utm_campaign=0c6091e3f4-Betterbee_Buzz_September_2021&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_61e19f35ed-0c6091e3f4-212304302&mc_cid=0c6091e3f4" target="_blank">Better Bee</a><br />
<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="hiveinspection" style="font-size: xx-large;">Hive Inspection</a>
</div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's important to have a purpose/s when inspecting a hive. Why are you
inspecting and what are you looking for? An argument can be made that
new beekeepers can only improve their skills by regular weekly inspections
but the disruption to the colony is real and should be minimized. A
beekeeper can learn a great deal by observing the entrance to the
hive. The book "<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV2MyNTJpN2NqeVk/view" target="_blank">At the Hive Entrance</a>" explains the value of being able to calculate a hive health by
observing the outside of the hive. In this video Paul Kelly, research
and apiary manager (University of Guelph, Canada), shows how to open a bee
hive and in the following video he will describe what you are looking for.
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BnjjULpVsDM" width="560"></iframe>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tlqXDInZUoE" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr37YFM28FqPQ8gzAD5LyH-YfEAPapxmJs3WapAZGojvxyf8v_fUlEyOWWbdZa39nivFou4I2fhTvomdzNBN61uVrn9SxtLKYo_e8HtdaDxD4GwJooCHvBwa9CnffY2KMmaCSeK0lEEHs/s1600/Capturem.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"></span></a>
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<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A
<a href="https://honeybee.uoguelph.ca/videos/frequently-asked-questions/" target="_blank">list of frequently asked questions</a>
on the University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre website. These
videos are from University of Guelph's video series which can be found in
the
<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#beekeepingvideoseries" target="_blank">video series section</a>
of our Library.
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</div>
<div style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PfXSSPSad_O0IGJUGN0w_vBkUIHzQC6S/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Hive Inspection</a>
- What are you looking for
</div>
<div style="clear: both;">and what do you see? </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtcbcHUwV268RyE0tkomb8zkLkVoPvduYMmCp7sBi5H2sNdoJLLnGkdwehHXITfhU6xW7DGLljc44MA0p4TNunjhwgYOylZrDYMFbrp4CdS0qh23R-SHIQF1Zl47VXfYuAQHPJNXUDTU/s1600/Capture111.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="304" data-original-width="409" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtcbcHUwV268RyE0tkomb8zkLkVoPvduYMmCp7sBi5H2sNdoJLLnGkdwehHXITfhU6xW7DGLljc44MA0p4TNunjhwgYOylZrDYMFbrp4CdS0qh23R-SHIQF1Zl47VXfYuAQHPJNXUDTU/s320/Capture111.JPG" width="320" /></a>"OUTSIDE OF THE HIVE • What is the level of activity of the colony at
the entrance of the hive? • How does the activity compare to that of
other colonies in the bee yard? • Are the bees “bearding” (festooning)
and what does that behavior mean? • Is there any indication of robbing
behavior? • Are the bees bringing in pollen? What does that
mean? FESTOONING Hanging out on the front of a hive. Just cooling off
on the front porch on a hot summer day. Don’t confuse this with swarming or
robbing behavior. ROBBING BEHAVIOR Bees are all over a hive and can be on
all sides. Flight patterns are erratic and frenzied. Installing entrance
reducers may help to mitigate robbing behavior.... " INSIDE THE HIVE
Checking for adequate stores, queenright, pests, parasites and
diseases. Prepared and presented by Bill Evans, Master
Beekeeper, Rose Hill Farm, LLC, Jemison, Alabama.
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1qVTyv6hvgg8sX63ZVi7fQwTqNqS7hnyjH6XBkZoAA7ZR8IjKzOfcYnYaNRkP2UPRwUfhQjk3XuHh2ftG4jYH6VFER6uh0VVsDhcG98ry6phNmJQzQfUnM3CBianaFQtjs62NpdFr2M/s895/Bee+brood.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="895" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir1qVTyv6hvgg8sX63ZVi7fQwTqNqS7hnyjH6XBkZoAA7ZR8IjKzOfcYnYaNRkP2UPRwUfhQjk3XuHh2ftG4jYH6VFER6uh0VVsDhcG98ry6phNmJQzQfUnM3CBianaFQtjs62NpdFr2M/w640-h448/Bee+brood.JPG" width="640" /></a>
</div>
Brood cell types<br />
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<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr37YFM28FqPQ8gzAD5LyH-YfEAPapxmJs3WapAZGojvxyf8v_fUlEyOWWbdZa39nivFou4I2fhTvomdzNBN61uVrn9SxtLKYo_e8HtdaDxD4GwJooCHvBwa9CnffY2KMmaCSeK0lEEHs/s1600/Capturem.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr37YFM28FqPQ8gzAD5LyH-YfEAPapxmJs3WapAZGojvxyf8v_fUlEyOWWbdZa39nivFou4I2fhTvomdzNBN61uVrn9SxtLKYo_e8HtdaDxD4GwJooCHvBwa9CnffY2KMmaCSeK0lEEHs/s200/Capturem.PNG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMjJyR19hamN2bVk/view" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Guide and Checklist</a> "To have healthy, strong, honey producing hives, beekeepers
must make inspections to know the conditions inside the hive. Hive
inspection is simply a term to describe: Taking the hive apart and
making observations, then deciding what needs to be done, based upon those
observations. There are a number of things we need to look for when we
inspect a bee hive. An inspection sheet helps keep things organized and
allows easy comparison from one inspection to the next. Experienced
beekeepers may find this check list too detailed, but that’s really the
point. It helps keep beginners and forgetful old folks like me from
overlooking something important.
</div>
APPROACH the hive from behind or from the side. As much as possible, stay out
the bees’ line<br />
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of flight. The rule of thumb is to smoke the bees a little and smoke them
often. Give them 2 or 3
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puffs of smoke in the entrance and under the lid before opening the hive.
After that, giving them
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1 or 2 puffs of smoke across the frames before you remove each frame will
usually keep them
</div>
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calm. Smoke under each box before removing it. If the bees get aggressive,
put a LOT of smoke
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in the air. This will mask the alarm scent and some of the bees will seek
shelter inside the hive..."
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Jerry Freeman, Ashley County Beekeepers Association, Arkansas.
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<br />
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eN64Zxp5zPkDGutg9XdhhwxkkENXoVgv/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">September Inspection</a>, Menifee County, Kentucky.
</div>
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An inspection sheet helps keep things organized and allows easy comparison
from one inspection to the next. It helps keep new beginners from
overlooking something important. I encourage you to use one of these
or one of the many available apps. As you become more experienced you
will make up your own checklist that suits your needs. There are many
apps and software programs for tracking your hives like <a href="https://hivetracks.com/" target="_blank">Hive Tracks</a>, <a href="http://beecloud.co/en/" target="_blank">BeeCloud</a> and <a href="https://www.beetight.com/" target="_blank">Beetight</a>.
</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldXp6V3ROZ29xYW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Colony Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/17RyRbYO1pByRXkgCrtnkT8y-Ul4orqSU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Inspection Sheet (backyardbees.ca)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcG9yQl9oSWlTdmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Check List</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMXpTc09NbEhQc2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Checklist pdf</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM2pFbmZOYklCVVk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Sheet pdf</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLUdjRE9iZlhORmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Sheet doc</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOVVPY1Y5bVlyRTQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Sheet
</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YUGtNQWABiGzcI1kbHYk2Z9IUAWrhQz1/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVUlld05kNWo0ems/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlN3l6VGZfODQtOGs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Work Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aeULojL8OJGdKZrnXvWWC4XcveZRZ1IC/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Record</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/12Mct13WOA8OkNOHh635mPzmuoZKO35wm/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F_bd3GCHP0645Ss0w0gc027a5Axxxt3w/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hive Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldDREaThMOWtRMzA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beekeeping Records - Checklist and Guide (BBA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMkZvWDlaaDd1aE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Multiple Hive Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlY1dPbEFvQWFVOFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Colony Inspection Sheet</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNF90QktRM3VJMzQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Colony Record Card</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GlAirbr6SLVPJi2GbvMNndzcOf9Fffxr/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Colony Inspection Sheet (Hawkins Apiaries)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSVBZbkJ1S3k4N0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring Check List (OBA)</a>
</div>
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<br />
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RMENWsJoIUs" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
</div>
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Inspect a Colony with
<a href="https://www.projectapism.org/video.html" target="_blank">Project Apis m</a>
Executive Director, Danielle Downey
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX6btZ_FUibxiaolMoIc6JIhZIeQXBpo4CDtcgxUpTW0RL_0PaYfhT3U3bPTX0KSUT6ftbIPN5u0PHWE8rdWa7buJ-bi5LiA_MgU_KSdw2ijGJTD2TCnNEzrPzTNI9PCrxthEOLpWQ7Lc/s1600/Bee+Md+%25282%2529.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="77" data-original-width="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX6btZ_FUibxiaolMoIc6JIhZIeQXBpo4CDtcgxUpTW0RL_0PaYfhT3U3bPTX0KSUT6ftbIPN5u0PHWE8rdWa7buJ-bi5LiA_MgU_KSdw2ijGJTD2TCnNEzrPzTNI9PCrxthEOLpWQ7Lc/s1600/Bee+Md+%25282%2529.PNG" /></a><a href="http://www.thebeemd.com/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">The BeeMD</span></a>
is a useful tool to help identify issues a beekeeper may find during an
inspection. "The BeeMD is a diagnostic tool to help beekeepers
identify honey bee health issues. The BeeMD will be used in multiple
modalities including computers and handheld devices such as tablets and
smart phones. The information on The BeeMD will be continually evolving and
updated as science and technology add new information to the ability to
diagnose and understand hive health." The BeeMD originated as a
project of the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign (NAPPC) with
funding from the USDA APHIS, the Rust Foundation, the Pollinator Partnership
and the University of Delaware. The founding team included the University of
Maryland, Jamie Ellis from The University of Florida, the American
Beekeeping Federation, and the Pollinator Partnership.
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<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wLmls2OpmhDE1ZloeTajiDUk2dor259Y/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Queen Spotting Identification Tool</span></a> (<a href="http://www.thegardenacademy.com/micro-homesteading/" target="_blank">The Garden Academy</a>)
</div>
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Finding the Queen - It's important that new beekeepers know you don't have
to find your queen each inspection. You can observe the state of her
health and performance by the brood pattern and the presence of all ages
of brood from egg to capped.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyl_F_WwjcscabI8-zfJi7XOZuYDYkHir88G7lPoK5gKd-LCA07Jmlm5r83t88bIEeqSYX6R8lbkYs0LB6lNdKAcJBS2LFgHUxwgFIJfvIGQf9AWE_eZFNUlWnqAMGlmEXoQeYnYOVxA/s535/Bee+brood+development.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="263" data-original-width="535" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwyl_F_WwjcscabI8-zfJi7XOZuYDYkHir88G7lPoK5gKd-LCA07Jmlm5r83t88bIEeqSYX6R8lbkYs0LB6lNdKAcJBS2LFgHUxwgFIJfvIGQf9AWE_eZFNUlWnqAMGlmEXoQeYnYOVxA/w640-h314/Bee+brood+development.JPG" width="640" /></a>
</div>
From
<a href="https://bee-health.extension.org/broodmapper-honey-bee-development-and-citizen-science/" target="_blank">Bee Health Honey Bee Development</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3S4GFzo164x4yPlvSNuRn83cbNJBJ_NAFyhUNf-N3Lj4OYcrKqFV626y1NcfypSXj0nzSX0tLrplQ6N8RhevpQ4pyBXZFJ3K7XzoGPWsoE3gzWG08LwxJFNc8SPNPayYzKmrabPbcxqc/s486/brood+development.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="179" data-original-width="486" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3S4GFzo164x4yPlvSNuRn83cbNJBJ_NAFyhUNf-N3Lj4OYcrKqFV626y1NcfypSXj0nzSX0tLrplQ6N8RhevpQ4pyBXZFJ3K7XzoGPWsoE3gzWG08LwxJFNc8SPNPayYzKmrabPbcxqc/w640-h236/brood+development.JPG" width="640" /></a>
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However, finding the queen is a necessary skill you will eventually have
to develop.
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• The more your eyes get used to landing on the queen, the faster you will
be able to find her during hive inspections.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUMCT95eIDGEwNbLzbrEGegez-EJepuwvgNcKNex4pc_nZqjfAAYQZLw8Z3ww5L3YrFapawwuLDOAJlk4ubtCKT7QrvS1Y1ADdbI_KEBLmFlBvC2ihdT0l2wqhzurZv5FeNLKOzlArrMo/s668/Queen+Training+Slides.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="323" data-original-width="668" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUMCT95eIDGEwNbLzbrEGegez-EJepuwvgNcKNex4pc_nZqjfAAYQZLw8Z3ww5L3YrFapawwuLDOAJlk4ubtCKT7QrvS1Y1ADdbI_KEBLmFlBvC2ihdT0l2wqhzurZv5FeNLKOzlArrMo/w400-h194/Queen+Training+Slides.JPG" width="400" /></a>
</div>
• The queen will often be moving, but training yourself to recognize her
on still pictures will still make you better at locating her.
• She is often easier to see when she is moving. She is much larger
than workers and when she moves quickly she leaves a wake of workers in
her path.
• If she is laying, or not
running from you, her movement is usually slow and graceful with a
noticeable retinue of attendants as seen in many of these images.
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• Move from slide to slide, and see how fast you can find her. Some are
very easy. Others are more of a challenge.
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<div>
• She is often easier to see when she is moving. She is much larger than
workers and when she moves quickly she leavesa wake of workers in her
path.
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• If she is laying, or not running from you, her movement isusually slow
and graceful with a noticeable retinue of
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attendants as seen in many of these images.
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• Move from slide to slide, and see how fast you can find her. Some are
very easy. Others are more of a challenge.
</div>
</div>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/grOyvr4y9xY" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
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Queenspotting Like a Pro - How to Spot the Queen Every Time from
<a href="https://www.beekeepingmadesimple.com/blog/queenspotting-tips" target="_blank">Beekeeping Made Simple</a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="splits,nucsandpackages">Splits, Nucs and Packages</a>
</span></span><b></b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd6kpQzhGJqQPlrqndZX7UdAxpHVErloO0WfmQ5FqqkzdA_z_Qrq1qmEbJgkWVIFDIZx-FqwudKNLQqbB6vgXli8oJoVAoTdlf79sqU6EKLcnPPZjG-RFNkHt6gL42rp95cFJU8NO5KyQ/s1600/Capturennnnnn.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd6kpQzhGJqQPlrqndZX7UdAxpHVErloO0WfmQ5FqqkzdA_z_Qrq1qmEbJgkWVIFDIZx-FqwudKNLQqbB6vgXli8oJoVAoTdlf79sqU6EKLcnPPZjG-RFNkHt6gL42rp95cFJU8NO5KyQ/s200/Capturennnnnn.PNG" width="176" /></a><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWGJKM0QtSllGSms" target="_blank">The advantages of using Nucs (University of Florida)</a> Nucleus colonies, commonly called “nucs”, are smaller versions
of full-size Langstroth colonies. They usu-ally have the same length and
depth dimensions as full-size colonies, but nucs are not as wide. As such,
nucs may hold 3-5 frames compared to the 8-10 frames typically held by a
full size colony. A second type of nuc, commonly called a “baby nuc” or
“queen mating nuc”, exists but is smaller than full-size colonies in every
dimension and is used primarily for queen bee production. Queen mating nucs
will not be discussed in this document. Rather, we will focus on five-frame
nucs exclusively, although three- and four-frame nucs can be used and
managed almost identically.
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FwGWN0AyoFg" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
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Splitting Hives (<a href="https://honeybee.uoguelph.ca/frequently-asked-questions-3/frequently-asked-questions-2/" target="_blank">University of Guelph Research Centre</a>)
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVzFSamloeXRoZkE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making Colony Splits - Dr. James Tew (Powerpoint)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qH-lq5_zZLeuYWVjRJstCM642zgnG4ox/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Introducing Queen cells and making Splits by R. Williamson and J.
Jordan</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtleHQ3SjgxVktnVVE" target="_blank">Getting Started with Nucs by Buddy Marterre</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qst3WDAQCApaVdnZ8aTigKfDjqDr9wRo/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Advantages of Nucs in Beekeeping Operations by J. Ellis and C. Nalen</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYk9qSnVuQ2dReUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Increasing Colonies (making nucs - Welsh Government)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWlQwVFZXOWk5TFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Simple method of making Increase by Wally Shaw</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOWlPSlVCdlNXOFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making a Nucleus or Splitting a hive</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HyyqCiIT6qdo_64AF8DRHbFT71REcpTK/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making Hive Increases by Dana Stahlman</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR1FObW1XTFVFenc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dividing Bee Colonies for making Nucs by Khalil Harndan</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ea4wV40q1b9DiFsHDh6jUrhsjViDT5Fu/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Peak Performance Splitting of Honey Bee Hives by Grant Gillard (Study)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUkFua3k3WDZZWHM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Efficient Production of Bee Colonies (Thorsen)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BqzFLCUj1JH75A8GqHMoo7hCKml_phb_/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Nuts and Bolts of Splits and Nucs by Jim and Pat Haskell</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMklCUlFXaGN3a1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Nuts and Bolts of Splits</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlX3VXSXlvcWR2WlE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Mel Disselkoen's method of healthy, rapid population expansion</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZnVPUGE3azhLYWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nuc Buyer's Guide (Ontario Bee Breeders Association)</a>
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Nuc vs Package Bee Comparson (A 6 video series from
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1E7M_Yky_5RtG-zX0C0rUQ" target="_blank">Beekeeping University</a>)
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlN0x4V3p3Um9ZZEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Survivability Comparisons between Nucs and Packages</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSFgzZ3VtSlFzb1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Buying Bees: Packages vs Nucs</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVVZhUU5xQjV3OXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nucs vs Packages (Pros and Cons)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZkJNM21aNkVsZkk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nucs vs Packages 2</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM2dBazNGaWlXd1U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Packages vs Nucs</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTHotN21sVzh4RDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The advantages of using Nucs</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV0hnb1JCVWtnem8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Standard and Guidance Notes for Nuclei (BBA)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZUFOdy0yNUtuNVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Cost effective Nuc Management (mdasplitter.com)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUEE2OUVFNlh1SU0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making and wintering summer nucs (Larry Connor)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQ1FlMy1Va3BrZDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making a Fall Split</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZm03WWpYNlMxeEE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Outbreeding Mites and Overwintering Honey Bee Nucs Part 1 (Mel
Disselkoen)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOVJRUzczaGh0cG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Outbreeding Mites and Overwintering Honey Bee Nucs Part 2</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQXVOZ29FR1hoWDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering Double Nucs</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleU80eV9MbF81dGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">6 frame Nuclei Wintered Indoors</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb0NKRW1ZakVoRmM/view?pref=2&pli=1" target="_blank">Package and Nucleus Study Fraser Valley, B.C. (1989)</a>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-14p8KWNg3w" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
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Package vs Nuc Challenge (A video series from
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkoAuqRakc1TtvXxL4Kr76Q" target="_blank">Kamon Reynolds</a>)
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<span><span style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="swarms">Swarms</a></span></span>
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<b></b>
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<h3 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span><span style="font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">Swarm Control</span></span>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1x8T_CHZemE" width="560"></iframe>
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Swarm Intelligence with Tom Seeley
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-GD0oKQSB-c" width="560"></iframe>
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Swarm Control: University of Guelph Honey Bee Research
Centre
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVTllVzVxN3ppRTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Checkerboarding by Walt Wright</a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DgBSotkLNOf3niCY-9vW8qzEED3_pY5HWlWPIwMod_Ed-tZiN79qrxhMAMZN_R6K79Neu6VUnWQcE-sa3bDx4zxBz42fEU9UPGHzmS72I618tm3UpX4KjhLXWON2__LWycWQUxC595w/s1600/Captureccccc.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DgBSotkLNOf3niCY-9vW8qzEED3_pY5HWlWPIwMod_Ed-tZiN79qrxhMAMZN_R6K79Neu6VUnWQcE-sa3bDx4zxBz42fEU9UPGHzmS72I618tm3UpX4KjhLXWON2__LWycWQUxC595w/s320/Captureccccc.PNG" width="320" /></a>The main thrust of Checkerboarding is to break up the overhead band of
capped honey maintained by the colony through the swarm preparation season.
(The literature refers to the band of honey or nectar as causing a “honey
bound” condition.) In the undisturbed colony, it is capped honey. In the
colony reversed in the early season, the band is rebuilt with nectar.
Maintenance of the band is deliberate addition of empty comb above the band
is often ignored, and swarm preparations continue below the band – which
Walt calls the “reserve”. He says that the reserve is maintained through the
swarm prep period to offset forage drop – outs or bad weather during swarm
preps.
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOGhhbXFYUGFqcTQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarm Prevention Alternatives (Walt Wright)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y-JYn3owGAxK8M-o5cKdjo4c2QfTmUww/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Group decision making in honey bee swarms by T. Seeley, K. Visscher and
M. Passino</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRkNsOENkR0hQczQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarm Prevention - Demaree Method</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleVJtMVN2VTZ4RGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarm Control for Managed Bee Hives (University of Florida)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMW1FX21ldVp5YlE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Managing Honey Bee Swarms (Australian Government)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMk9Iak4tYTIxSGM" target="_blank">An Apiary Guide to Swarm Control by Wally Shaw</a>
</div>
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<a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/beespresentations.htm" target="_blank">Swarm Prevention by Michael Bush</a>
</div>
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<a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/beespresentations.htm" target="_blank">Swarm prevention and Splits (Michael Bush) Powerpoint</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZWlqZHlXZjhRVzA" target="_blank">Bee Swarms and their control</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYlJNNzViNVI3dGc" target="_blank">Simple Swarm Control (Artificial Swarming)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQmJYXzY3N216Slk" target="_blank">Swarming: Insights from a Master (Cleo Hogan)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVW8wMld3LXR0UEE" target="_blank">Swarming Time Again by Dana Stahlman</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNUVhWnJUZ3RUTlU" target="_blank">Swarms and Swarm Management by Dr. James Tew</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT2RtQk56TDM4b1U" target="_blank">Swarm control for beginners (BBA)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRkZXN0ZOdVcxZWs" target="_blank">Monitoring Swarming Sounds in Bee Hives for early detection of swarms
(from ScienceDirect)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rrmnNc6hM-3T5q1niGsYnO9AuXe80dd3/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarming: It's Control and Prevention by L. E. Snelgrove (l935)</a>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Swarm Catching</span>
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Swarm Traps: What you need to know to be successful (Brown's Beef and Bees)
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/JPthebeeman/videos?reload=9" target="_blank">JP the Bee Man: Catching Swarms (Videos on every type of catch you can
imagine)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcWJTSzk1cjVuLTA" target="_blank">Collecting Swarms (BBA)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtldUhEdWdpUFRZRVE" target="_blank">Dealing with Swarms in Buildings (BBA)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTXBtMERKSkhqT3M" target="_blank">Collecting and Hiving a Swarm by John Farrow</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNFVEaXhnblNtOW8" target="_blank">Catching Swarms by Larry Connor</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMXVVd1FBSjBPU2c" target="_blank">So you want to be a Swarm Catcher by Beth Conrey</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUGxpQndVWERhb0U" target="_blank">Bait Hives for Honey Bees by Thomas Seeley</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HVve8fHZMbZCc6ZiorscYaI6udM9LLix/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Swarm Trap on every Tree by Dr. L. Sharashkin</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYVNjMHNOTDNtTW8" target="_blank">Use of Swarm Traps (Bait Hives)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vQNvxMXmTjiLhQOq2U2YZXXtnPajYWoC/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Removing Honey Bees from Walls (University of Tennessee)</a>
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<a href="http://www.ohiostatebeekeepers.org/beekeeping_class/hiving-a-swarm/" target="_blank">Hiving a Swarm: Ohio State Beekeepers Association (Video)</a>
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<a href="http://www.ohiostatebeekeepers.org/beekeeping_class/hiving-three-swarms/" target="_blank">Hiving 3 Swarms: Ohio State Beekeepers Association (Video)</a>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1e-5v0GP9I" target="_blank">Swarm Trapping 101: Beekeeping University (Video)</a>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xjqg1UpsbU" target="_blank">Setting Up and Baiting Swarms (Jason Chrisman Video)</a>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eO_lgROUC4" target="_blank">Catching a Swarm (Brushy Mt Bee Farm Video)</a>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRnIxeG5lTjRxakk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bushkill Swarm Trap (Bushkillfarms.com)</a></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUUFyTm9nc1Y1ZXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarm Box Plans (Gary Reuter, University of Minnesota)</a></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uJ3m9IkowoSXcyvoypr6M7PtyBH0MInw/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Building a Swarm Trap (Bees on a Mission)</span></a>
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<a href="http://horizontalhive.com/how-to-build/swarm-trap-free-plans.shtml" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Swarm Trap Lite Plans (Horizontalhive.com)</span></a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYS1Nb2pkcnNNbG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bait Hives plans and description (T. Seeley, R. Morse, R.
Nowogrodski)</span></a>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://youtu.be/7OBlsAD5eyY" target="_blank">The Complete Guide to Building a Swarm Trap (Woodworking Accountant
Video)</a></span>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="wintermanagement">Winter Management</a>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtla2NKVy1MbkRKSWs" target="_blank">The Biology and Management of Colonies in Winter</a>
</div>
<div style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vWraGCLBk9nKyppUsd5krbeFQSP-22kbnyJsGXIayKgZzLEe-ALZNXbxgY8sKdmOdeSiKp1TKglaw-HKuWDOtg4tQlZL8dhY_bWbcucprWRIsb30VwDY4Kaz1L9MlV13MW72CmMXt4s/s1600/Capturewwwwww.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vWraGCLBk9nKyppUsd5krbeFQSP-22kbnyJsGXIayKgZzLEe-ALZNXbxgY8sKdmOdeSiKp1TKglaw-HKuWDOtg4tQlZL8dhY_bWbcucprWRIsb30VwDY4Kaz1L9MlV13MW72CmMXt4s/s1600/Capturewwwwww.PNG" /></a>(Beaverlodge Research Farm, Alberta, Canada) In nature bees have two
general methods for maintaining colony temperatures in winter: 1) selecting
a protected and well-suited cavity (Tab. 1) and 2) clustering.
Clusters have a two-part structure (Fig. 1): 1) a dense outer mantle
in which bees jam together, orienting their heads towards the center of the
cluster and 2) a loose inner core where bees are free to move. The mantle
insulates and, at its tightest, approaches the insulation of bird feathers
or mammal fur (0.1 W/kg/ºC). Clusters move slowly from empty combs to ones
full of honey. This movement is typically upwards and sideways, never
downwards. Before we go on, here are four critical temperatures you should
know: 1) brood nest = 32-36ºC, 2) minimum thorax temperature needed for
flight = 27ºC, 3) minimum temperature needed to pump flight muscles and warm
up (analogous to mammal “shivering”) = 18ºCand 4) below which bees go into a
“chill coma” = 6ºC.</div><div style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlX1NzY0EzeGdDRk0" target="_blank">The Thermology of Wintering Bee Colonies by Charles D. Owens (Agriculture
Research Division, Wisconsin)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYi1qZ1FrbXhlTlk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies (USDA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR0R6alhpUXl6TGM" target="_blank">Honey Bees in Winter (Cluster Dynamics by Kim Flottum)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT2dPS000RVJhdE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering Honey Bees: Biology and Management (Penn State
University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTFptXzJKa2pyZFE" target="_blank">Winter Preparation for Ontario Beekeepers by Paul Kozak, Provincial
Apiarist</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNUxHcXF1TVJBQ0E" target="_blank">Spring Reasons for Colony Loss Checklist (Ontario Beekeepers
Association)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtldlMxMlJORmxUbHM" target="_blank">Wintering Honey Bees in Quebec by George Brezina</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldDFuaHlpV3NLWWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Fall Honey Bee Management Guide (Atlantic Canada - ATTA)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_X5prmTMoOvVlOXsfoqIdcBqHedM-c-S/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Fall Management for Winter Survival by Kevin Reichert</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNXlrUFE1VFFMVXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees in the Maritimes</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcmFxRkl6YW9qVEU" target="_blank">Winterizing Guide for Beekeeping by Eliese Watson (Alberta -
backyardbees.ca)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtldDlaWklkRUp1MWs" target="_blank">Honey Bees and Winterkill by Medhat Nasr (Province of Alberta)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbWxHVmRzZHlacnc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering Beehives in the North (Eric Krouse , New York)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlajByN1hWdmxSa1E" target="_blank">Winterizing your Top Bar Hive (Colorado - backyardhive.com)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVWN1dEQta3pWTkE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Honey Bees in Alaska (Joe Carson)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMEVoQWFhckJrekk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Fall and Winter Preparation and Management (Hale's Honey, Kentucky)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlc2M0VnNZUzBiUjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering of Bees in San Francisco (Ruby Blume)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMEtsVGxfczVHX0U" target="_blank">Preparing Apiaries for Winter Survival by Barbara Bloetscher (O.S.U.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldjN4TEM5SXVBTEE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Getting Ready for Winter (Les Crowder)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWnNPWjB5eXlIMjA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Considerations (Kim Flottum)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYU5yTGprRy1fdk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering in Cold Climates (The Beekeepers Quarterly)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZzU5VzJWS29veWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees in Cold Climates (Cornell University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/psuAswYFSG4" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
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</div>
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Winter check with Jorik, from
<a href="https://www.hudsonvalleybeesupply.com/" target="_blank">Hudson Valley Bee Supply</a> in Kingston, New York.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLVhwV1JuMUFpN1k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Beehives (James E. Tew)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRFU1M2FpZXBXczQ" target="_blank">Winter Bee Losses and Remedies (Bee-commerce.com)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT0NDNHdfZFpjNFE" target="_blank">Overwintering Honey Bee Colonies in Northern Climates (University of
Florida)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVnJKWm13RFJRS28/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Preparing Honeybee Colonies for Winter (National Bee Unit)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYWFBTGpSbHJ0VE0" target="_blank">Overwintering of Russian Honey Bees (USDA Honey Bee Breeding
Laboratory)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYnFuNW8xWm5iZ1U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Winter Hardiness of Buckfast Bee (University of Lublin)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYzh6NUFVRlRPYnc" target="_blank">Wrapping a bee colony for winter by G.S. Reuter and Marla Spivak
(University of Minnesota)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYXdEdW55aDBDNDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making Beehive Winter Wraps</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZEVESk9odDFUVDg" target="_blank">Why Insulate Hives? (Pros and Cons)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVTNxR3llVUdCSDg" target="_blank">Indoor Wintering Requirements (Research Station, Beaverlodge, Alberta)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcW13bXloeWlYNFU" target="_blank">Indoor Wintering Highlights (Research Station, Beaverlodge, Alberta)</a>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYXdHVEQtZlFIbHM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Remotely Controlled Bee Wintering Building (Latvia University)</a>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYmZrbHc2R2N4a00/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Effects of Wintering Environment on Parasite-Pathogen Interactions
(University of Winnipeg)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNjNoSkdSVVlnTDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ageing in Long-lived Winter Honeybees (University of Pretoria)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XwFMqlsPaYjzpGsr_vGhtgb7Xjid_rgs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Effects of Hive Color and Feeding on Russian Honey Bee Winter Clusters
(U.S.D.A.)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZnByQkV4bzhJSDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Study of Honey Bee Colony Winter Losses and their association with
Varroa, Neonics... (Netherlands Centre for Bee Research)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QUhO0Q5LLYp4ZUPJPPoeLfgzqu5FcQri/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Why did my bees die? (Winter - Michigan State University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2020/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gS4y3kSo2Hc" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Adding Sugar Bricks to Beehives in Newfoundland (<a href="https://mudsongs.org/making-no-cook-sugar-bricks-for-honey-bees/" target="_blank">Mudsongs making no-cook sugar bricks</a>)
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVHJISGU5RmxDbFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintered Honey Bee Nucleus Colonies (Pacific Northwest
Extension)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTWFBa051Tzd4OFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Nucs (Dr. Joseph Latshaw)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlazF0YVhFbWY5am8" target="_blank">Wintering 2 Frame Nucs in Manitoba (mbbeekeeping.com)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcjJkSGlTQlFUalk" target="_blank">Cell Building and Overwintering Nucs by Kirk Webster</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSjBFb1BwUmlSNEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Outbreeding Mites and Overwintering Nucs (Mel Disselkoen)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUjVNNjNTUzQ5MTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering Nuc Workshop </a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQndXbFFVekx0cDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Overwintering Honey Bee Queens and it's effect on their performance
(Ankara University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV3JMbW9ZbmlCbFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Mass Storage of Honey Bee Queens during Winter (Simon Fraser
University)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVUhDS3pySklaa3c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees (E.R. Root, 1913)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbmVOXzEtbmtCX0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees in Canada (F. Sladen, 1920)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlREtnaE9qeHctZW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees in Canada (C. Gooderham, 1926)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlODNOSnRnMmY3bUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees in Colorado (R. Richmond, l924)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/17O6WPnj7UXS33CUFuTKZRqkSNnIclgD7/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wintering Bees in Australia (Doug Somerville)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T-rrqiSM_ylVHD-EX8Odm3P2jURbcRYe/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Indoor Storage of Honey Bee Colonies in the United States</span></a><b> </b>It is important to consider the purpose and/or motivation for the use of
indoor storage as part of the overall management strategy of each unique
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkgthFy7SERJjkGQjBTaN64LIl_ONngXaLciPE3cQ4r0RgR_63nrosH3ZXIjD8PM_fn1uYBXR3WEzwMTjOGlriW4v1A8zAPI638JeqMQCK6RaN9bhJ8I8gQmynCQsQyHPaH2B9DPtOetc/s482/Indoor+Storage+of+Honey+Bee+Colonies.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="419" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkgthFy7SERJjkGQjBTaN64LIl_ONngXaLciPE3cQ4r0RgR_63nrosH3ZXIjD8PM_fn1uYBXR3WEzwMTjOGlriW4v1A8zAPI638JeqMQCK6RaN9bhJ8I8gQmynCQsQyHPaH2B9DPtOetc/s320/Indoor+Storage+of+Honey+Bee+Colonies.JPG" width="278" /></a>
</div>
operation. The following statements might have made for a good title for
this publication and reflect underlying principles for the recommendations
found herein. These sayings have become something of a mantra from
beekeepers with experience in managing indoor storage.“You get out what
you put in” “Garbage in, garbage out” “Storages are not hospitals” Indoor
storage is not a cure-all and they are not suitable for all operations.
All the work and preparation in the month leading up to the storage period
are critical. This document is intended to be a starting block to be built
up and create a central repository of knowledge on the practice of indoor
honey bee storage and the management surrounding storing bees in
buildings. The following sections are the initial collection of invited
contributions from individuals with experience from different aspects
related to indoor storage. We expect to learn more and openly invite
additional collaborators to add to this work - watch for an online
resource coming soon. Following this introduction is - The “Ins” and
“Outs”. A section intended
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
to cover the preparation of colonies before they go into storage and some
precautions and advise for treatment of colonies when they get out of
storage. This is mainly composed of advice gathered from commercial
operations who have been storing bees indoors.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.ars.usda.gov/pacific-west-area/tucson-az/carl-hayden-bee-research-center/research/cold-storage/cold-storage-overwintering-tool" target="_blank">USDA Cold Storage Overwintering</a><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://www.mbbeekeeping.com/" target="_blank">Manitoba Wintering Methods</a><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://scientificbeekeeping.com/suggested-readings-and-resources-for-serious-beekeepers/" target="_blank">Randy Oliver's Overwintering of Honey Bee Colonies</a><br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ODy9iIM_s4&t=1s" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Indoor Storage conference Webinar Video</span></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Indoor storage of honey bee colonies for winter is not a new idea, but it is rapidly becoming a more widely-used practice, with many potential benefits to explore.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">This virtual conference is presented by Project Apis m., The Almond Board of California, and Washington State University. Resources and content in this video include Researcher talks about the latest science and results, panel discussions with Researchers, Commercial Beekeepers, and an HVAC specialist, and virtual tours and informative videos.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Chapter Links Below:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">0:00 - Introduction of Day 1 with Danielle Downey, Project Apis m. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">7:51 - Research Talk: Population Dynamics and Biology of Colonies Overwintered in Storage with Dr. Gloria DeGrandi-Hoffman, USDA-ARS </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">0:58:33 - Mini Documentary Part 1: Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: Tour of Buildings and HVAC Systems</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">1:13:18 - Mini Documentary Part 2: Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: Preparing Bees for Indoor Storage</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">1:24:42 - Day 1 Panel Discussion "Indoor Storage Today" with Buzz Landon, Dr. Brandon Hopkins, Dr. Gloria DeGrandi-Hoffmann, Nick Noyes, and Bryan Ashurst</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">2:38:37 - Introduction of Day 2 with Dr. Josette Lewis, Almond Board of Califorina</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">2:42:30 - Research Talk: Research Updates from Washington State University, with Dr. Brandon Hopkins</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">3:54:03 - Resources for Non-Commercial Beekeepers, with Dr. Kelly Kulhanek </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">3:57:33 - Mini Documentary Part 3: Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: Putting Bees into Storage</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">4:07:10 - Mini Documentary Part 4: Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: During and After Storage </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">4:17:02 - Day 2 Panel Discussion "Best Practices and HVAC Considerations" with Nick Noyes, Anthony Molitor, Dr. Brandon Hopkins, and Jason Miller</div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span>For those beekeeping in the extreme north</span>
(<b>Yukon, NWT and Alaska</b>)</span> a good source of information is
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://www.northof60beekeeping.com/" target="_blank">North of 60 Beekeeping</a>.</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Our goals are:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
To develop a better understanding of Beekeeping in Extreme Northern
Climates (Yukon, NWT and Alaska)
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
•Best Practices – How can we improve yields and winter survival of
honeybees?
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
•Best Forage for Success – What are the best native and non-native
pollen and nectar sources in the different parts of the North?
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
•Best Equipment to Use – What is the best equipment to use to here for
our specific conditions?
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
To develop North of 60 beekeeping knowledge for all levels
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
To introduce beekeeping to more people in the North (more data and
experiences to learn from and share)
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
•Save money by not making the same mistakes we made
</div>
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•Ability to run successful beekeeping businesses
</div>
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•Pooling and sharing resources, skills and tools to reduce some costs
(OAV Vapourizer, Extractors, Books, etc...)
</div>
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•To educate beekeepers on diseases and pest that could have a large
impact on the viability of keeping bees in the North <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/yukonbees/" target="_blank">Facebook group</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://www.northof60beekeeping.com/education/fall-and-winter-preparation" target="_blank">Fall and Winter Preparation</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WOvdUYOO9XGfum-XpYPpxTm9EBrE7bGq/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">The Bees and the Cold by Etienne Tardiff</span></a>
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Abstract: A bee colony in a hive will undergo a wide variety of
heating and cooling events related to weather and due to internal hive
biological processes (e.g. brood rearing) where they will be required
“control” thermoregulate their internal environment. Our job as
beekeepers is to understand these requirements and provide them with
the best “homes” possible for them to succeed. In this presentation I
will explore the use of simple. Temperature and Humidity data
(in/out of the hive), basic geometry and basic thermodynamic
principles to illustrate what goes on in the hive during very cold
winters (0C to -46C). I will look to find practical
implications/approaches and concepts that beekeeperscan use to improve
their wintering performance and make the bees more comfortable during
very cold winters.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCVZnYPym-lwXIjS53jppJZjE_30ybgJjo8ZWAomJb3dTzlExA1UED-aVrZtoYNUUnbfqsVlYz8UK_XL7kWG-UZwcTWHd6QlUL2eULzJ5uI66YJx0w35LMZHokNpbiPSs5IIi4hpB7AY/s1163/Hive+insulation.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="659" data-original-width="1163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVCVZnYPym-lwXIjS53jppJZjE_30ybgJjo8ZWAomJb3dTzlExA1UED-aVrZtoYNUUnbfqsVlYz8UK_XL7kWG-UZwcTWHd6QlUL2eULzJ5uI66YJx0w35LMZHokNpbiPSs5IIi4hpB7AY/s16000/Hive+insulation.JPG" /></a>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0wsHqbAGMkQ" width="560"></iframe>
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The "Biology of Wintering Bees" by Medhat Nasr, Provincial Apiarist,
Alberta, Canada.
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</div>
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<div style="font-size: 16pt; margin: 0in;">Winter Management Webinars</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/Wxk5at5Pqps">Getting your hives ready for winter with Kim Flottum (BMBF)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/F6xzWwKymkQ">Getting ready for winter (BMBF)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/O2xRs7u6WUg">Final winter preparation (BMBF)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://u.osu.edu/beelab/winter-survival/">Winter preparation with Barbara Bloetscher (OSU)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/NCAvKRjd_DU">Getting your bees ready for winter with Dr. David Tarpy (NCS)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/5aisF4oV8D0">Overwintering nucs with Larry Connor (BMBF)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/DSjlwKfjM1U">Overwintering bees panel discussion with Michael Palmer, Kim Flottum
and Harry Fulton (BMBF)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/OQw8sKtF0Ww">Hives have made it through winter...Now what? (BMBF)</a>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0in;">
<a href="https://youtu.be/SUCywzUs9gs">Recovering from winter losses with Larry Connor (BMBF)</a>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="beehiveconstruction">Beehive Construction</a> </span><b style="color: blue; font-size: xx-large;"><u> </u></b>
</div>
</div>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: blue;"></span></span></b><br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;"><u><b></b></u></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4IdphROWxsmYn-GzCb3QeaeqUcsT6o9kAgGZMwGam-vlcSF3VQj7PHnARoYco4J_t_UHVbwLBxEwec_ZlM8xfse508Iq-rewfRTu1JMWSQw-kw9vJqUBI-1xsINLkkgC7T4QanGV6-I/s1600/Beehive+fence+annotated+layer+(s).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="481" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4IdphROWxsmYn-GzCb3QeaeqUcsT6o9kAgGZMwGam-vlcSF3VQj7PHnARoYco4J_t_UHVbwLBxEwec_ZlM8xfse508Iq-rewfRTu1JMWSQw-kw9vJqUBI-1xsINLkkgC7T4QanGV6-I/s640/Beehive+fence+annotated+layer+(s).jpg" width="640" /></a>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Hives </span></u>
</div>
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<br />
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkF59M0dvZTqN3no9LFRDWgSjMomL2DgkkYel_1jjLIh-2mEgSU3_zF60BSkJtUzlHuRqXoMPT8JhAXvnU5S9rxqs3YKdGk0mJ40kRxtAfcLFWZ3XRErnAWNyR0DZICMv2Ls4wwqjfZzQ/s1600/Captureb.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="188" data-original-width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkF59M0dvZTqN3no9LFRDWgSjMomL2DgkkYel_1jjLIh-2mEgSU3_zF60BSkJtUzlHuRqXoMPT8JhAXvnU5S9rxqs3YKdGk0mJ40kRxtAfcLFWZ3XRErnAWNyR0DZICMv2Ls4wwqjfZzQ/s1600/Captureb.PNG" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZXZDZ2otQ090c0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive construction</a>
(B.C. Government) - Most beekeepers will assemble pre-cut beehive
equipment at some time. Others go farther by manufacturing their
own equipment. In either case, it is important to use standard
dimensions and assembly methods to ensure that the equipment will be
interchangeable, strong and durable. This publication offers
dimensions and designs of individual hive parts, and a few assembly
hints. In Canada, the Langstroth movable-frame hive has been adopted
as the hive standard. This hive design provides simplicity of
construction and ease of manipulation, permitting rapid inspection and
interchange of frames. Well-constructed equipment pays off in
ease of management, and retains its resale value.</span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u>Beehive Construction Resource Websites</u></span>
</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium;">
- One of the best sources of beehive construction information I have
found is <b>Steve Tilmann</b> of the Michigan Beekeepers
Association. His instructional written and video presentations
are detailed and easy to understand. A great contribution to
the beekeeping community. <a href="https://www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/" target="_blank">Michigan Beekeepers Association</a>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/beekeepersworkshop/videos" target="_blank">Beekeepers Workshop Videos</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium;">
- Dave Cushman's drawings of <a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/natdrawings.html" target="_blank">National Bee Hive Component Parts</a>. (UK)
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium;">
- <a href="https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=20&order=desc" target="_blank">DIY Hive Construction Plans and Tools</a> from UK Beekeeping Forum.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium;">
- <a href="https://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/" target="_blank">Beesource</a> Build it Yourself Section. <a href="https://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/" target="_blank">Plans</a> <a href="https://www.beesource.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?250-Equipment-Hardware" target="_blank">Forum</a>
</div>
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- Plans for bee hive components from <a href="https://freewoodworkingplan.com/free/beehives/" target="_blank">FreeWoodworkingPlan.com</a>.
</div>
<div><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div></span>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vV-7kmLwQ00" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
<br />
Steve Tilmann's video on how to make hive bodies (8 frame medium) from
the
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/beekeepersworkshop/videos" target="_blank">Beekeepers Workshop</a>.
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlX2VaX3NHWjFKX3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Construct and Repair Bee Hives (Australian Government)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTXhoVUZpUHlxUUE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">10 Frame Langstroth Construction Plans (Bottom board; Deep, medium
and shallow super; Inner and outer cover) Beesource.com</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span>
</span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlM1pHQ0J4aXdzWDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bottom Board, Entrance reducer, Deep, Medium and Shallow Super
Plans (University of Minnesota)</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUmo4VVd5SUp2Nms/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dimensions for Langstroth Hive Parts and Frames (U.S.D.A)</a> </span></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOWJwRUlkc045Y2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Assembling a Beehive</a> </span><span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"> </span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlU3JLYXZjYkdVNkU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Plans for hive stand, bottom board, deep super and frame and
outer cover (University of Tennessee)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOGMxSVFpYVk1eVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Low Cost Beehive Plans (Hive made from 10' 1x12 and 1x8 and 6' 2x2
- U.S.D.A)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWTY2SWlxSS1YdjA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">10 Frame W.B.C. Double Walled Hive (Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSFdDMTRIekRTbnc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">DIY Construction of the W.B.C. Hive (HMSO)</span></a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYUtVdXZ1WkRrcTQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">11 Frame British National Hive Construction details
(Beesource.com)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla041Ukc4bGNlZ2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dimensions and Construction of the British National Hive (HMSO)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlamtOYjh1ZXRYSGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">DIY Guide to Building the Smith Hive (HMSO)</span></a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWS1LdU94MnhSUDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">An A-Frame Modular Bee Hive by John Alexander Hogg</a> </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaWlEdVJsS2R6bUE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Warre Hive Construction Plans by David Heaf</a></span></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMWVsd1dKcWhaUDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Detailed Instructions for Building a Warre Hive by Darren Gordon
(houseofbees.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcW1qTWUxeDlvQk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Newby Hex Hive (Warre inspired hexagon shaped hive)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMjRpNzcwMFJmcXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Sun Hive (9 frame straw hive by Guenther Mancke)</a> </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbUFFQjkzUWdwSGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Sun Hive Management</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTHJVSU82VTdyM28/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">9 Frame electronically powered Rotating Broodframe Beehive
(Description)</span></a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcXNKV0JKUkhCSEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making a Perone Hive by Oscar Perone</a> </span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQllLaVFMeGhQYVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dartington Horizontal Deep Hives by Robin Dartington</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbmRNaXRtT0NGbk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Double Deep Horizontal Hive Plans (Horizontalhive.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://horizontalhive.com/how-to-build/hive-frame-swarm-trap.shtml" target="_blank">Horizontal Langstroth Plans</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlam1rcHJtMmFlMEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Building a Horizontal Hive with plywood (Horizontalhive.com)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbDJ4dzJ2bzA5RXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Gable Roof for Horizontal Hive Plans (Horizontalhive.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZkdmVnZnZkw0RUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Screened Bottom with oil pans for Horizontal Hive Plans
(Horizontalhive.com)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTVY4UEtzcTdVY3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hexagon shaped Beatrice Hive (Detailed patent and plans)</a></span></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSG5uN0N4RGs1MGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Stewarton Hive (Inner octagon frame) by Rev. Bartrum, London,
l881</a> </span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleXBPTDh1M1Q5UjQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to make a Bee Skep (colonialsense.com)</a></span>
</span></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcmpvVWZqeEFSNG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Straw Hive Construction for Apis Cerana (ICIMOD Bee Project)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMEZpMXhOQzUxMkk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to Build a Top Bar Hive (Kenyan) by Philip Chandler
(Biobees.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVTVDZkVIWmRseXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Designing your ideal Horizontal Top Bar Hive by John Vendy</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVEowM1ZrTkMzMEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Kenyan Top Bar Plans (Peace Corps)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcHB3M0JVY05hbXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Yemen Top Bar Hive (Abdullah and the University of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVU5SWVJkTlhEeVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">The Calgary Northern Climate Top Bar Hive by Metropropolis and the
C.B.A.</span></a>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSlc5R0FzRVloSXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">German Top Bar Hive in German (Bavarian State Research Center)</a></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcW1hbjZvbDlRakE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Colorado Top Bar Hive (Modern adaption of KTB from
opensourcebeehives.net)</span></a>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZDNGaTd5SmYyTzg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Barcelona Warre Hive (Modern adaptation from
opensourcebeehives.com)</a> </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZlJ5clNmZDk3cGc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">2 Queen Hive description and plans (U.S. Patent)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSkxyd0VrOW1RYmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Multiple Queen Beehive plans and desrciption (U.S. Patent)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOW4wcXRxRFlSUDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Portable Beehive for Pollination plans and description (U.S.
Patent)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRnIxeG5lTjRxakk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bushkill Swarm Trap (Bushkillfarms.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUUFyTm9nc1Y1ZXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Swarm Box Plans (Gary Reuter, University of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uJ3m9IkowoSXcyvoypr6M7PtyBH0MInw/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Building a Swarm Trap (Bees on a Mission)</a>
</div>
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<a href="http://horizontalhive.com/how-to-build/swarm-trap-free-plans.shtml" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Swarm Trap Lite Plans (Horizontalhive.com)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYS1Nb2pkcnNNbG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Bait Hives plans and description (T. Seeley, R. Morse, R.
Nowogrodski)</span></a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaG14S0FLT05QMW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Easy DIY Native Bee Condos (Resonatingbodies.wordpress.com)</a></span> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/beespresentations.htm" target="_blank">Alternative Equipment (Michael Bush) Powerpoint</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYzZTM3YtczNudjQ" style="font-size: large;" target="_blank">AZ Slovenian Hive Guide and Construction</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNGl6UFdpRjBVYms/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">How to build a Beehive Bed (Horizontalhive.com)</span></a>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Observation Hives</u></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlS3FaYkpBUFRHdzg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Building and Operating an Observation Bee Hive (W. Gojmerac and M.
Allington)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlU0dIdGpuSUJCMTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Observation Bee Hives by M. Sanford (U. of Florida)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZHZ2cTJFRzdLbEk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A plan for a very simple Observation Hive by Dr. James Tew</a> </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSU9aMm5HR2Jjdk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Simple Single Frame Portable Observation Hive by Ed Simon</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRXgtTmxRQWZmalE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">8 Medium Frame adjustable Observation Hive by Tim Arheit</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld2x4Z24xOEtjUjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">3 Frame Observation Hive (beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlejBBTDlCV1U0VTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">2 Frame Vertical Observation Hive by Gary Reuter (U. of
Minnesota)</span></a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSUJWa1p4YkhIYkk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Single Frame Observation Hive plans (N. Carolina State College and
the U.S.D.A)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZzBMaXBxdndiYlE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making the Bowness 6 Medium Super Observation Hive (by
Metropropolis, Calgary Beekeepers Assoc.)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNHppZWp4azRJWnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Setting up an Observation Hive (N. Carolina State University)</a></span>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Parts</span></u>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVnpzZ01sX3N6bGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Building Langstroth Supers by Stephen Tilmann and the Michigan
State Beekeepers Association (Michiganbees.org)
</span></a>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRn1ClFzVFdh9t1s4hJLFXs6WQNaT4BInB0GPgClvWYZYjuWB2Ujdy6ME3N_Fvuh6SstrLrOUacExwG9NDlZLTM7SQvgQF7o62mGEwCkCC-lz0c1IRYOyTvQWTdvrsN_vWw4ZCN2vAGXk/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRn1ClFzVFdh9t1s4hJLFXs6WQNaT4BInB0GPgClvWYZYjuWB2Ujdy6ME3N_Fvuh6SstrLrOUacExwG9NDlZLTM7SQvgQF7o62mGEwCkCC-lz0c1IRYOyTvQWTdvrsN_vWw4ZCN2vAGXk/s320/Capture.PNG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 44pt 6pt 29pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 193.2pt; width: 228.3pt;">Hive bodies take a lot of abuse and need to be con-</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 27pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 207pt; width: 263.4pt;">structed accordingly. Not only do they have to bear a lot of </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 30pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 220.8pt; width: 259.5pt;">weight (up to 70 pounds, or more) for a super, but the bee-</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 10pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 234.6pt; width: 280pt;">keeper will use their hive tool to twist and pry apart hive bodies </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 55pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 248.4pt; width: 235.1pt;">after the bees glue everything together with propolis. </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 29pt 6pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 262.2pt; width: 242.9pt;">Of all the hive components, hive bodies have the most </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 18pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 276pt; width: 272.3pt;">differences in size. There are four standard heights
(referred </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 35pt 11pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 289.8pt; width: 255.1pt;">to as “depth”) for hive bodes: deep, medium, shallow and
</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 35pt 11pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 289.8pt; width: 255.1pt;"><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 21pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; width: 269.6pt;">comb honey. In addition there are three common widths:
10-</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 157pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 13.8pt; width: 133.4pt;">frame, 8-frame and 5-frame. </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 13pt 6pt 29pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 27.6pt; width: 259.5pt;">We typically recommend to beekeepers just starting out to </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 15pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 41.4pt; width: 276.1pt;">decide on one size hive body and then stick with it. That
way, </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 21pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 55.2pt; width: 269.6pt;">all equipment is interchangeable. Because a 10-frame deep </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 20pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 69pt; width: 270.9pt;">super can be very heavy (70+ pounds), we suggest using 10-</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 10pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; letter-spacing: 0.01pt; top: 82.8pt; width: 280.7pt;">frame mediums (which usually top out around 35 pounds when </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 27pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 96.6pt; width: 263.9pt;">full of honey). The plans presented in this article are for
10-</span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 18pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; top: 110.4pt; width: 272.3pt;">frame medium hive bodies, though tables on the cut list page </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 117pt 6pt 11pt; height: 9.3pt; letter-spacing: 0.01pt; top: 124.2pt; width: 173.9pt;">provide dimensions for the other sizes.
</span></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldmNhTmhUU1c0WFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Jig for Cutting Handholds in Hive Bodies by Whimpy Hogan
(Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYUlubXN4Qy1IdWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Insulated Moisture Quilt</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRTdxSFFEaVRCVDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Foundation Form Board (Holds frames to aid foundation
installation and frame wiring)</a></span></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVEUtMVE3azUxaDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Inner cover and Outer Cover plans (both telescoping and migratory)
by Gary Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld3kxVmwyS0NrdWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">All Season Ventilation/Insulation Box (in place of inner cover) by
Tim Arheit (Honeyrunapiaries.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleUVqRG9NMTM2Tzg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">DIY Wax Cloth for Hive Body (Natural inner cover by
Beeosphere.org)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbG0yX0YyOU9lRGc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Vented Beehive Outer Cover design (U.S. patent by N. DeYoung)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld1hEQnZDVW9HalU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive movable top entrance design (U.S. patent by E.
Schmitz)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQkxuTW1LVVJFenM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Making Organic Beeswax Foundation (Volcano Island Honey Company)</a>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlajJoZ1B3Wk5OYlk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to make a Snelgrove Board (Swarm Management) by John Tait</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSlhUTGhENEViQkk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Snelgrove Board Plan</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSm1UbWtRNHFWZlE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Many Uses of the Snelgrove Board by M.W. Shaw (Anglesey
Beekeepers' Association)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSVFBSllrZ2JyRWs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Langstroth Gable Roof Plan (Bill's)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"></span>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Nucs</span></u>
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<span style="font-size: large;"></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTEZYdlFBOEs1cHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5 Frame Nuc with Migratory Cover by Tim Arheit
(Honeyrunapiaries.com) </a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjW7K8s2BBXyKniHsvCJKcjIqRPeooF_I9HJ-Nkrstxa_rVuEX8sndg_-RT1ld7E2GT56vCEZjobyiYehvljG9mBLJGO4n44f24lkJ_iIPW45wPv4pGa1kHH5g1HMu-kaQ8pwsChLRWfc/s1600/Capture2.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjW7K8s2BBXyKniHsvCJKcjIqRPeooF_I9HJ-Nkrstxa_rVuEX8sndg_-RT1ld7E2GT56vCEZjobyiYehvljG9mBLJGO4n44f24lkJ_iIPW45wPv4pGa1kHH5g1HMu-kaQ8pwsChLRWfc/s320/Capture2.PNG" width="320" /></a>1. #8 Hardware cloth should be placed over the middle section of the
bottom of the hive for ventilation. It is easiest to install if it is
stapled on after the front, back and sides are assembled but before the
bottom is attached. 2. A 9 3/4 x 9'' piece of corrugated plastic
can be slid in the dados in the bottom pieces to block off the
ventilation in cold weather. 3. The feet may be made of treated
wood or other wood that resists rot to extend life. 4. To enable
feeding the nuc a hole may be cut in the top to fit a quart jar or other
suitable feeder. Screen may be placed on the inner side of the hole to
prevent the bees from coming out when the feeder is replaced and a
square of heavy plastic may be placed over the hole and attached by one
screw or nail. This piece of plastic can be moved aside when feeding and
moved over the hole when not feeding.
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5. When moving the nuc you need only close off the entrance with duct
tape. The bees will have plenty of ventilation from the bottom screen.
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSnJvdEVsalhVbjQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5 Deep Brood Frame Hive (U.S.D.A)</a> </span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlY216bzQtbVo5aGM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5 Frame Mating Nuc and Feeder (Gary Reuter of U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTklqaEYzb3VBbWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Coates 5 Frame Nuc Plans by Drew Coates</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldlNzWUpzSUw4LVk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Standard Hive body Mating Nuc with 4 Dividers (Gary Reuter of U. of
Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSXRyN0xELVJreXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">4 x 4 Mini Half Medium Frame Mating Nuc by Gary Reuter (U. of
Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlc0xNT05MdGdremc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">3 Frame Mini Mating Nuc (Designed to hold half length frames) by
Gary Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRUF3M2tCVzlLQTQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Mini Mating Nuc Feeder by Gary Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUmI5NkRFV3pQWUU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">3 Frame Mini Mating Nuc with Feeder by Gary Reuter (U. of
Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZHRQRUtJcW1kM2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bushkill 4 Way Mating Nuc (Bushkillfarms.com)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQ21OR3JSaHZUMGs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to Make a Styrofoam Nuc Box by Stephen Tilmann</a> </span></span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOTFPbDMwOUNHcmc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5 Fram Nucleus Hive Plan by Andy Robinson (British metric)</a></span></span></span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlamtjQXN2ZUZJQ28/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5 Frame Nuc Plans (U.S.D.A)</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaFI3ay11ZlB3Tjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Plans for a 5 frame and Double 3 frame Nuc (L.S.U. Ag Center)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcU5jbWJya0thZ2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Double 3 Frame Brood Hive Plans (U.S.D.A)</a> </span>
</span></span>
</div>
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black; font-size: x-large;"><u>Frames</u></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.box.com/s/46li8ydx8h49chj1pbhy" target="_blank">Beehive Frame Plans by Gary Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV09YcWhQMFdYcms/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Extra Deep Horizontal Hive Frame Plans (Horizontalhive.com)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWWtYM3VTcG5vYW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Removeable Swarm Catching Frames (Beesource.com)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlS1JzN2kwanNiUFE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">10 Frame Assembly Jig (Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTmlWYm5kZTc2dFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Frame Assembly Jig (Robo.Bushkillfarms.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbFlQeFB2ZW5pVmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Foldable Beehive Foundation Frame (U.S. patent by R. Little)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYU9jX3hueURfMk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Dadant type Langstroth Frames (Deep, medium and shallow)
Beesource.com</a></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"></span>
</div>
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<br />
</div>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Bottom Boards and Racks</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSEM2ODVXODdxUEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Langstroth Screened Bottom Board Plans (Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWk1GRFJnT1FENGs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Langstroth Screened bottom board Plan by G. Reuter (U. of
Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcUpOcmtfVFEwNTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Langstroth 2 x 4 Screened Bottom Board by Michael Wilson</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbWhXRVFQOUZYSTA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Design and Construction of Open Mesh Floors (SBB) by M.W. Shaw
(British metric)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQldRR1Y3TkJQNmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Research on Screened Bottom Boards (Australian Government)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSXdUU1FNbUZoLWs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Multi Use 3 Drawer Bottom Board by G. Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQjM2cVp2VVlUa2c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Langstroth Double Screen Board (Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbG9WcUVvSTJ1ejA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Varroa Floor Design and Use from "The Scottish Beekeeper" (Metric)
</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcTljSWgwV2JvRDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Parasite Reducing Bottom Board (U.S. patent by G. Griffith)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldndPRF9BUFdsS00/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Solid Bottom Board by Tim Arheit (Honeyrunapiaries.com)</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOFMyWUNBR09mTjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">National Hive Mesh Floor by Graham White</a></span>
</span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcjVTWG5ySUd5RzA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Langstroth Slatted Bottom Rack (Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
</div>
<div a="a" id="id">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Feeders</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT293SjJvdGp6VVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Miller Feeder</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8W-1fvcHb79RR6ZREoJ8B01U1kqNZNBjQOhPjR4QPs5Aph_YfjGhdQCVPZjaht3OR_W4TyKzIjy4vSLLtTc69iK0CVwY-SjkBh6mpBYU0E4DIh5qT-L0ffpHG8Rmxif5OPAmUMvhaRo/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8W-1fvcHb79RR6ZREoJ8B01U1kqNZNBjQOhPjR4QPs5Aph_YfjGhdQCVPZjaht3OR_W4TyKzIjy4vSLLtTc69iK0CVwY-SjkBh6mpBYU0E4DIh5qT-L0ffpHG8Rmxif5OPAmUMvhaRo/s320/Capture.PNG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 21pt 3pt 11pt; height: 7.4pt; width: 259.2pt;">Give entire inside of feeder two coats of polyurethane or
marine varnish. Pour molten wax onto all inside
seams. Attach hardware cloth to top of boards "A" with
staples (Beesource.com).</span></span></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaTJCWXJ3S1dXbTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Construct a Boardman Feeder</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUmRGMjJ3T01WajA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Entrance Jar Feeder Plan</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLUl1M2ItRV9JVVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Frame Holding Bee Feeder (U.S. patent by W. Varni and R.
Aruzmendi)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVU5SWVJkTlhEeVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Kenyan Top Bar Entrance Feeder by Metropropolis of C.B.A (Pgs.
34-38)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcTNuTkZiYVpxTVk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Warre Hive Feeder</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Pollen Traps</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT2pYcm52TXZUemc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hosterman Pollen Trap Construction Details (Beesource.com)</a>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldldQaS1MOUlnYkE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ontario Agricultural College Pollen Trap</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMko1aHBNY3NSLW8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen Trap Plans and description (U.S. patent by K. Healy)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNnlwV3dpa3JWN3c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen Trap Plans and description (U.S. patent by V. Shaparew)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlajlPRWxTQ0hhOUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen Trapping in Minnesota by S. Duff and B. Furgala (U. of
Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYThaNllMUUJIZTA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen Trapping and Storage (D. Somerville, Australian
Government)</a> </span>
</div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Queens</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlendJY1lRNUhiZGc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Cage Construction Pictures and Dimensions (Danish metric)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUUNFZHhQVW9LU1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hotel Queen Holder designed for Langstroth Deep by G. Reuter (U.
of Minnesota)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaUFpU21UcU9LX0E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Rearing Box</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRWpjb3VJWjZva2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wood Queen Cage Holder by G. Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUklSeWtFeTlnM2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Queen Cell Bars and Frames by G. Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVktlenBVY0toN0E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Constructing a Grafting Tool by G. Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR1ZYZlVad2NOcUU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">5 Frame Queen Incubator Plans by Tim Arheit
(Honeyrunapiaries.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Vacuum</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla3BrR21Qc1R3NEE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">DIY Portable Bee Vacuum (Battery powered vacume)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVDl4VlprWWVPUU0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Vac Plans and description of assembly by Mathew Westall
(Beesource.com)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSk5hX0hfVlgyU3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Sampling Vacuum Attachment by Gary Reuter and Kirk Visscher</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Parts for Pests</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVzE1SVAzS214OTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Building a Gizmo Varroa Mite Sampler (University of Minnesota)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSl9JY0dzT3pXcEk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Gizmo Varroa Mite Sampler Operating Instructions (University of
Minnesota)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOU03Q1BoRGpwSDg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Formic Acid Fumigator Plans and description of use (W. Virginia
University)</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWlp2R1JYRDRXSG8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Parasite Removal Device by agitated bee filtration screen (U.S.
patent by H. Vanderpool)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleXQ0ZElEZVNGRjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Parasite removing apparatus by heating element (U.S. patent by M.
Arndt)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNEFQakZWSDJteFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Infestation Device using essential oils - "Thymol" (U.S.
patent)
</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMk9LSTViX1FBdnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Wasp and Hornet Pop Bottle Trap and Bait (Simple design and use)</a>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNktlUmNKRzZITEU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">A Simple Monitoring Trap for the Asian Hornet
(Nationalbeeunit.com)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Winter Protection</span></u>
</div>
<div a="a" id="id"></div>
<div a="a" id="id">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYUlubXN4Qy1IdWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a></span><br />
<a href="https://app.box.com/s/04blcua3kgu98sjx1mwqe8ffmz6gmtch" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Ventilation/Insulation Box</span></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.box.com/s/y4v0nh157d78d489vluy">Making winter wraps</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.box.com/s/r064o9xam6b39en1eboc" target="_blank">Making Beehive Winter Wraps</a>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Transporting</span></u><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlakhNRWtaM3paSk0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">German Beehive Transporter Plan in German metric (Bavarian Research
Centre)</a>
</span>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQ3CxLa_b0wR-wmd2bhAR-BuJNw24YPLnsIhpTABoQJkUvQioCcsO7iNJaFbixZoWqmxElrzKA27-XGpxxPwupq73arT52FRtWiEnG8idAWBnq_CNu6vXSEqCvSnEeQ3-8Rn3k0C2nDw/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvQ3CxLa_b0wR-wmd2bhAR-BuJNw24YPLnsIhpTABoQJkUvQioCcsO7iNJaFbixZoWqmxElrzKA27-XGpxxPwupq73arT52FRtWiEnG8idAWBnq_CNu6vXSEqCvSnEeQ3-8Rn3k0C2nDw/s320/Capture.PNG" width="209" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>English translation</b>: The large bicycle tires (57-406, 20 x 2,
125) </span><span style="font-size: medium;">give the sack barrow a particularly good ride s</span><span style="font-size: medium;">uitability in uneven terrain. The wide </span><span style="font-size: medium;">wheelbase provides a good grip against </span><span style="font-size: medium;">slip </span><span style="font-size: medium;">of the </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Hives. T</span><span style="font-size: medium;">he </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Prey truck for hives to max. 46 cm w</span><span style="font-size: medium;">idth. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">If your hives be wider than 46 cm, is </span><span style="font-size: medium;">only an adaptation of Pos. 1 and 2 (see </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Plan </span><span style="font-size: medium;">A) </span><span style="font-size: medium;">to the desired </span><span style="font-size: medium;">width </span><span style="font-size: medium;">make. </span><span style="font-size: medium;">The construction of the prey truck based on both a comfortable
posture and on the </span><span style="font-size: medium;">great usability with secure stand against </span><span style="font-size: medium;">overturning. </span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLVZqSFhsRllYRnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Clamping and Transfer Device (U.S. patent by W. Barnes and
C. Emilio)</a></span>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Heating and Ventilating</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYlU5bXlQS1JHNDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Heater Plan (U.S. patent by J. Van Damme and C. Rendino)</a></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaWhzeUNiQzhmeTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Ventilator Plans (U.S. patent by M. Jamison)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlN0s5Rmp0dUN0eHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Upper Aerator (U.S. patent by H. Kettl)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVDRRSVZBMUl5T2c/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Solar Powered Beehive Cooler and Ventilator (U.S. patent by G.
Stearns)</a></span>
</div>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Elephants</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMFJOLWNEMmJHR1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Fence Construction Manual (Step by step guide to deter
elephants)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Bears</u></span>
</div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTk9qZW5uVU9wY3M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">A Starter's Guide for using Electric Fencing to Deter Bears by K.
Annis (M.F.W.P Bear Specialist)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGPumRIwBhjbBwdN5sIpoFKzkdu-SqG3K9JQURGhCh1rsqcpATjxbw7-ALveY4RVNpoZrs8ie6IRj4wVRCXSvfuQCCILkRo_hbILc3hXQjRvg5TM72iEWSohn56BJtrcWKdQXhU3TNjjQ/s1600/bbandhive.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGPumRIwBhjbBwdN5sIpoFKzkdu-SqG3K9JQURGhCh1rsqcpATjxbw7-ALveY4RVNpoZrs8ie6IRj4wVRCXSvfuQCCILkRo_hbILc3hXQjRvg5TM72iEWSohn56BJtrcWKdQXhU3TNjjQ/s1600/bbandhive.jpg" /></a><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 35pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 61pt; width: 479.9pt;">A properly constructed electric fence is safe for people and pets
and has proven to be effective at </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 22pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 75.7pt; width: 492.7pt;">deterring bears from apiaries (beehives), fruit trees, gardens,
livestock pens, rabbit hutches, garbage </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 10pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 90.4pt; width: 504.8pt;">containers, dog kennels, chicken coups, compost piles, storage sheds,
along with numerous other uses. </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 19pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 105pt; width: 496.1pt;">There is an abundant variety of applications and effective fencing
designs for deterring bears. Design, </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 59pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 119.7pt; width: 455.9pt;">construction and proper maintenance will determine the effectiveness of
your electric fence. </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 59pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 119.7pt; width: 455.9pt;"><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 26pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 148.9pt; width: 488.5pt;">Safety is always a concern when using electrified equipment. Modern
electric fence energizers have </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 14pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 163.6pt; width: 501pt;">been shown to be safe for humans, animals and vegetation. The pulse
rate of a modern energizer is so </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 17pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 178.2pt; width: 497.6pt; word-spacing: -0.07pt;">quick that they cannot generate enough heat to start vegetation on
fire. While touching an electrified </span><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 118pt 4pt 11pt; height: 12pt; top: 192.9pt; width: 396.5pt;">fence is unpleasant, modern energizers are safe to use around pets
and children.</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld3FETWZhNlJjekE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Cost-effective energized fence to protect beehives from black bears
(Minnesota Department of Natural Resource)</a>
</span>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZWhHcEFLckN0Rmc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Study on the design of effective bear fencing to protect apiaries by
T. Otto (Michigan State U.)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlekJPMm1DQ2lRMUE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Electric Bear Deterrent Fence Instructions (Pennsylvania Game
Commission)</a> </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlODBTVDFIdjBieEk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Detailed Pictorial Instructions on Building an Electric Bear Fence by
master beekeeper L. Simone </a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.sustainablehomesteading.com/bee-keeping/build-bear-proof-bee-fence/" target="_blank">How to Build a Bear-Proof Beehive Fence
(Sustainablehomesteading.com)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYjlXSnk4TVY1Vm8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bearproofing Beehives (Vermont Bearhound Association)</a> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQkR2SjRLaE5mWU0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Florida Bears and Beekeeping by M. Sanford and J. Ellis (U. of
Florida)</a> </span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZWZCVld0V0xYa2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bears and Beehives in North Carolina by Mike Carraway (N.C.
Wildlife Resources Commission)</a> </span></span></span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span></span>
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<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Honey Extraction</span></u>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.voiceofthehive.com/VotH/15_1_Voice_of_the_Hive-Roll_Your_own_Extractor.htm" target="_blank">DIY Bike Wheel Honey Extractor (Voiceofthehive.com)</a></span>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3RDjGF4OtrexsxKk0IX9P3J7TMYKk8oxzw88bGo1bDB5GqXGPJRmy5TCtCuVRGNRB9wyBnNVsiHA0SnJfK6D-UWyvSPSRAen5Eh0gY0IsCM53bbFsEDSQQ4YOyc6aWLxTAEkkL7u7QQ/s1600/ExtractorWholeSmall.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3RDjGF4OtrexsxKk0IX9P3J7TMYKk8oxzw88bGo1bDB5GqXGPJRmy5TCtCuVRGNRB9wyBnNVsiHA0SnJfK6D-UWyvSPSRAen5Eh0gY0IsCM53bbFsEDSQQ4YOyc6aWLxTAEkkL7u7QQ/s320/ExtractorWholeSmall.jpg" width="240" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The bicycle wheel extractor begins with a bike. The frame cage
is made of the bicycle rims, with the spokes serving to hold the
frames in place. Which bike you want is based on your drum and
your frames. Not all bike wheels are created equal, primarily
because of the spoke design. For the western supers I use, I
discovered that the front wheels of some sixteen inch bicycles would
fit nicely, while the rear wheel and some other spoke patterns
wouldn’t allow western frames (but did allow true shallow
frames). The way that I discovered this involved my daughter’s
bike. “You don’t need a wrench to put on streamers,” she
said. Her bike wasn’t right anyway. I didn’t want to buy
two bikes just to sacrifice the front wheel, so tape measure in hand I
descended on yard sales and thrift shops, carrying a western frame
along for a “test fit”...</span></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla25NTXBJQ0VRdE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">U.S.D.A. Model Honey Extractor (Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSGFORUhBVnpDMFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Extractor Plans (U. of Tennessee and U.S.D.A)</a></span>
</span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://www.voiceofthehive.com/VotH/15_1_Voice_of_the_Hive-Roll_Your_own_Extractor.htm" target="_blank">DIY Bike Wheel Honey Extractor (Voiceofthehive.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldnpmMmZHZEFFYjg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">DIY 9 Frame Bike Wheel Extractor for $90 or less (Edwin Simon)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleXdVb2hCalVEYXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Yankee Beekeeper 20 Frame Extractor Plans and Guide (David
Verville and Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTktyejAySFhwUHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">DIY Drill Powered $50 Honey Spinner (by Chase at
Kiltedcraftworks.com)</span></a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR2gtVFFuSWV4RGc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Extractor Use and Maintenance (Bobsbeekeeping.com.au)</a>
</span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld2R4X2ZCNEozeXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Solar Bees Wax Extractor Plans (L.S.U. Ag Center and Penn State
U.)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcWdGTXhOUlNNMkU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Solar Wax Melter Plans by G. Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaWt0YWdXdy11dFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Mini Solar Wax Melter by G. Reuter (U. of Minnesota)</a></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZ3NER0lJWXpXVWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Heater for crytalized or high water content honey
(Beesource.com)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtld2tUVnRfdjBlRWs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honeycomb Uncapping Tank (U.S.D.A.)</a></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla2pfUkZIRVNpZlU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: medium;">Building a Honey Extractor Stand by Stephen Tilmann</span></a>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><span style="font-size: x-large;">Hive Care</span></u>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlR2ZmeC1qY09EUFU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Care of Wooden Beehives (British Beekeepers Association)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleXFTYkxGN0gtS28/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Preserving Woodenware in Beekeeping Operations (U. of Florida)</a></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlc1g5UDJmOGlBZDA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Hot Wax Dipping of Beehive Components (Australian Government)</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT0lYZ3NFQ0l2TlE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Beehive Monitoring System (U.S. patent)</a><span style="font-size: large;"> </span>
</span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u>Beehive Construction Resource Websites</u></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
- A great collection of plans and videos from Steve Tilmann and the
Michigan Beekeepers Association. <a href="https://www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/" target="_blank">Michigan Beekeepers Association</a>
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/beekeepersworkshop/videos" target="_blank">Beekeepers Workshop Videos</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
- Dave Cushman's drawings of
<a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/natdrawings.html" target="_blank">National Bee Hive Component Parts</a>. (UK)
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
- <a href="https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=20&order=desc" target="_blank">DIY Hive Construction Plans and Tools</a>
from UK Beekeeping Forum.
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
- <a href="https://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/" target="_blank">Beesource</a>
Build it Yourself Section. <a href="https://beesource.com/build-it-yourself/" target="_blank">Plans</a> <a href="https://www.beesource.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?250-Equipment-Hardware" target="_blank">Forum</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
- Plans for bee hive components from
<a href="https://freewoodworkingplan.com/free/beehives/" target="_blank">FreeWoodworkingPlan.com</a>.
</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue; font-size: x-large;"><u><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="feeding">Feeding</a>
</u></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GOtdkW6tJHOaUiTtrGGGJ_G7Ldj6HUmdrfoEXDtfzmbrbGVAz-jepWGKNwjOa3oTLMSP1b1Cjb68P0jLfz3-UoZNje85BJZ8nbC9w2ciSPZX4YfsM7bzWlzXgcaQdyV4bd5H7Is_bs8/s1600/Fat+bees.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_GOtdkW6tJHOaUiTtrGGGJ_G7Ldj6HUmdrfoEXDtfzmbrbGVAz-jepWGKNwjOa3oTLMSP1b1Cjb68P0jLfz3-UoZNje85BJZ8nbC9w2ciSPZX4YfsM7bzWlzXgcaQdyV4bd5H7Is_bs8/s1600/Fat+bees.PNG" width="320" /></a>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlekRNOU9xajhSRUE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Fat Bees Skinny Bees</a>
- a manual on honey bee nutrition for beekeepers by Doug Somerville
(Australian Government). This publication provides information on the
known essential chemical requirements of honey bees including the
components of nectar and pollen. Pollens with a protein level
around 25% or greater have been recognised as excellent quality
pollens, those less than 20% have been described as of a poor
quality. Australia has had more pollens analysed than any other
country, and for the first time all of the profiles of the analysis
are presented, representing 183 species. There is some
evidence that pollens from the same genus, i.e., closely related
plants, exhibit similar nutritional values in regards to pollen
chemical composition.
<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">Lack of nectar or stored honey presents the beekeeper with various
sets of problems.<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
These scenarios are discussed with the most appropriate course of
action. Likewise,<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
lack of pollen or poor quality pollen creates its own set of
problems, often exacerbated<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
by the stimulus of a nectar flow. How to recognise the need to
provide pollen<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
supplement and the circumstances which may lead a beekeeper to
invest in this<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
practice are discussed.
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">Some facts about honey bee nutrition include; nectar flows
stimulate hygienic<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
behaviour; total protein intake is what should be
considered, not so much the individual<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
chemical properties of individual pollens; fats in pollen
act as strong attractants to<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
foraging bees, although increasing concentrations in
pollen limit brood rearing;<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
vitamins are very unstable and deteriorate in stored
pollen; principal cause of winter<span style="color: black; font-size: 12pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;">
losses is starvation, not cold...</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOFhfVktWR2VRUVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Nutrition by Eric Mussen (UC Davis)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOE1zaHFNSVVFa1U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Nutrition by Zachery Huang (Michigan State U.)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWVQ4WWNiekFGZHM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Bee Nutrition - Review of Research and Practices by J. Black
(Australian Government)</a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVUtuNkpKNFJSOXM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey bee nutrition and supplementary feeding by D. Somerville
(Australian Government)</a>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMFVVdkpGRkUwUE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen nutrition and colony development in honey bees (Swiss Bee
Research Centre)</a>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRHhHeEstMlQ1VHM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Effects of High and Low Fat Pollens on Honey Bee Longevity by Rob
Manning (Australian Government)</a>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlYkdyUkZIdndhM2M/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens by D. Somerville (Australian
Government)</a>
</div>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlY0pqamdLaUEzWmM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey (not sugar) constituents up-regulate immunity and detoxification
genes in Honey Bees (University of Illinois)</a> <br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQXVNcFREeVkycjQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Benefits of Pollen to Honey Bees (University of Florida)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSjdXUThuWm95S0U/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Considerations in Selecting Sugars for feeding to Honey Bees by R. Barker
(U.S.D.A)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtla2laRlgyeWVvZE0/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Feeding Bees Pollen Substitute by Dr. E. Mussen (UC Davis)</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleGpka004aUVJMUU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Honey Substitution Chart for Feeding Bees (National Honey Board)</a><br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNjNZWExYVUZhMDQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Development of an Artificial Pollen substitute/supplement diet for
Honey Bees by R. Gupta (Haryana Ag. U.)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZTNFaUFVRDVMOUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Development of a Pollen Substitute to meet the Nutritional Needs of
Honey Bees (Australian Government)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWldYSVdWMFpFU1E/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Winter Feeding (Edinburgh and Midlothian Beekeepers' Association)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLVFNanBWeVp3eWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Storage Proteins in Winter Honey Bees (U. of Guelph and U. of
Arizona)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlQ0JrQng2elBaVHc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Amino-B Booster (Food supplement) Honey-B-Healthy</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWHZvZ0o5bGQyNGs/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Proteins, Honey Bee Nutrition and Amino-B Booster (Honey-B-Healthy)</a>
</div>
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<a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/bee-nutrition/" target="_blank">Nutrition Section</a>
of Scientific Beekeeping (Randy Oliver) which includes studies on a
variety of topics like light or heavy syrup?; probiotics; beebread; pollen
substitutes and more.
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Recipes</u></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNjg3S1R5eXEwT0k/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Feeding Recipes by Cass Cohenour</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMmNCVFg3YVNJaVk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Recipe for a Pollen Substitute (Scottish Beekeepers Association)</a><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlREgwYVQ3Vm4xNUk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen Substitute Recipe</a></span></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRVpmUHJJRGM4TFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Pollen Substitutes and Supplements including recipes (B.C.
Government)</a></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSXp1ZEdwXzAtTkU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Homemade Protein Supplement Recipe</a></span></span>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;">
<br />
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WX4O1yeSf8I" width="560"></iframe>
<br /> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;">Pollen Substitute Patties by DC Honeybees</span></span>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"> </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"> </span></span>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtleHhKa1Y5azJHMXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Light Syrup Preparation and Application (Scottish Beekeepers
Association)</a></span></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldG9zbDhndXYxMms/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Heavy Syrup Preparation and Application (Scottish Beekeepers
Association)</a></span></span></span>
</div>
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"> </span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldlNFOEp4ZnQwN2s/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ziploc Sugar/Honey Feeder Recipe by Graham White</a></span></span>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlNDlwWkUxbkNxZVU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Fondant Recipe for Bees (Edinburgh and Midlothian Beekeepers
Association)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMkhIUkVJS1A0REU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Tea Recipes (Honeybeelives.org)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlclVNaEU5RmJXREE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bee Candy Recipe (Scottish Beekeepers Association)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV3Y5dmF5NTg4RnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Feeding Bees (Welsh Government)</a>
</div>
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<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2019/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter (Strathcona Beekeepers)</a>
</div>
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<a href="https://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Winter Candy Board from Beverlybees.com</a>
</div>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gS4y3kSo2Hc" width="560"></iframe> </span></span>
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Adding Sugar Bricks to Beehives from
<a href="https://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mud Songs</a>.
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Feeders</u></span>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lrFErz3SoVE" width="560"></iframe>
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Feeder Types from
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/BrushyMtnBeeFarm" target="_blank">Brushy Mt Bee Farm</a>.
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlT293SjJvdGp6VVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Miller Feeder</a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8W-1fvcHb79RR6ZREoJ8B01U1kqNZNBjQOhPjR4QPs5Aph_YfjGhdQCVPZjaht3OR_W4TyKzIjy4vSLLtTc69iK0CVwY-SjkBh6mpBYU0E4DIh5qT-L0ffpHG8Rmxif5OPAmUMvhaRo/s1600/Capture.PNG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs8W-1fvcHb79RR6ZREoJ8B01U1kqNZNBjQOhPjR4QPs5Aph_YfjGhdQCVPZjaht3OR_W4TyKzIjy4vSLLtTc69iK0CVwY-SjkBh6mpBYU0E4DIh5qT-L0ffpHG8Rmxif5OPAmUMvhaRo/s320/Capture.PNG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span class="tx" style="border-width: 0px 21pt 3pt 11pt; height: 7.4pt; width: 259.2pt;">Give entire inside of feeder two coats of polyurethane or marine
varnish. Pour molten wax onto all inside seams. Attach
hardware cloth to top of boards "A" with staples
(Beesource.com).</span></span></span></span>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaTJCWXJ3S1dXbTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Construct a Boardman Feeder</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlUmRGMjJ3T01WajA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Entrance Jar Feeder Plan</a>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlLUl1M2ItRV9JVVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Frame Holding Bee Feeder (U.S. patent by W. Varni and R. Aruzmendi)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVU5SWVJkTlhEeVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Kenyan Top Bar Entrance Feeder by Metropropolis of C.B.A (Pgs.
34-38)</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcTNuTkZiYVpxTVk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Warre Hive Feeder</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMVpBS3FjeEZnSGM/view?usp=sharing" style="outline-width: 0px; user-select: auto;" target="_blank">Boardman Feeder DIY Plans</a>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSTd3eHFuQkZHaFk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Bottle Feeder DIY Plans (Scottish Beekeepers Association)</a>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-6723899261555287892021-09-08T13:23:00.028-07:002023-07-20T14:08:33.420-07:00Winter Preparation for Vancouver Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVVfCYpwwO-k5EYGYbHofl81F3Ks_7eDx-poUOTWU63p2NXCK6pnfhfXUW7pIe9xbBGQDx3lad20-4maeknmTnYLMsL6qWDG9VG1jU-sVJwSwFPW4RzzhH2g370rA99OD5tmaow1M1vY/s1600/bees-need-rain-too2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcVVfCYpwwO-k5EYGYbHofl81F3Ks_7eDx-poUOTWU63p2NXCK6pnfhfXUW7pIe9xbBGQDx3lad20-4maeknmTnYLMsL6qWDG9VG1jU-sVJwSwFPW4RzzhH2g370rA99OD5tmaow1M1vY/s640/bees-need-rain-too2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span>It's September and time for Vancouver beekeepers to prepare for winter. Actually winter preparation is an ongoing task (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs103.pdf" target="_blank">Beekeeping Calendar for B.C.</a>). The main reasons our bees die over the winter is starvation, colonies suffering from parasitic mite syndrome, too few bees to heat the cluster and moisture. I complete my winter hive setup by the middle of October. Much of what
you do in preparation depends on your management style of beekeeping
(virtually nothing for the extreme natural beekeeper to intense
management for others). This is a revised post from last year and are just a few
suggestions based on my experience keeping bees in Vancouver. Beekeeping is very location dependent so for those outside of Vancouver revise accordingly (Check out the <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/basic-beekeeping_26.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a> section of our library).</span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> Over the years my winter survival rate has improved. Folks ask what is my secret and I tell them I never put to bed for winter a weak colony. When I say above winter preparation is an ongoing task I mean addressing a weakness at it's infancy by treatment or requeening long before September. Adding frames of bees to a weak colony now won't make it a strong colony just a more populated weak colony. Some of the practices I use for winter preparation are 2x4 under rear of hive to allow drainage down the front and not on the cluster, R5 insulation under the outer cover to reduce condensation, candy board added at start of winter, insulate, tar paper and mite test board in place. Once again this is location dependant and I'm sure others will find other practices that work well for them. I completed a formic acid treatment in August and will possibly do another later in September (mite check). I have screened (eighth inch) entrance reducers to allow for treatment during wasp predation season (unusual low yellowjacket population this year but fairly strong bald faced hornet presence - picking off bees at hive entrance). We have the normal skunk scrapings at the hive entrances this year and a first for me, a pair of sparrows that spent most of the summer picking off bees at the hive entrances (feeding their young). Pretty good honey production year despite the cold, wet spring and early summer. </span><br />
<br />
<span><b><span>Food</span><span> </span></b></span> <br />
<span>To address the food issue you will need about 10 deep frames or 15 medium frames of honey (65 lbs or 30 kgs) for an average sized colony to survive the winter. In our specific location (Strathcona) we still have a good availability of nectar and pollen with many different plant species still in flower in our 4 acre garden and the surrounding area. Due to global warming plants in Vancouver can begin to flower 2-3 weeks earlier than in the past so our forage shortage begins in mid September (the Goldenrod and common Aster are in bloom now). The problem occurs when the temperatures are still warm and dry enough from mid September through mid October for the colony to stay active. An active colony without a natural food source may consume much of the winter food supply. I'm fortunate this year to have a good supply of honey frames from my stronger hives that I can share with my weaker hives. If the food reserves are low it's a good time to feed 2 to 1 syrup. You can feed during formic acid treatment by adding the feed either before or when you add the formic pads. You cannot open the hive during the treatment period. </span>This article "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2020/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a>" describes the different methods of feeding at different temperatures. The girls will take a 2 to 1 syrup down to about 12 celsius (53 fahrenheit) after which they find it too difficult to dehydrate for storage. Some beekeepers will feed syrup baggies on top of the frames in colder temperatures on the theory that heat from the cluster warms the syrup. I've not tried this. An issue with syrup feeding this time of year is making sure most of the syrup the bees store gets capped. The uncapped syrup will become a source of winter moisture and mold. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> To address our</span><span> main foraging shortage which occurs from mid September to mid October I have separated the root balls of common Asian Asters for planting and transplanted the invasive Canadian Goldenrod (Aster). When mature the common Asian Aster becomes a 1.5 by 1.5 metre (4 by 4 foot) bush with hundreds of flowers and can bloom well into October. We have a few hundred autumn flowering variety Asters in our 4 acre garden. Other late bloomers in our garden are Japanese Anemone, Mint, Autumn Joy Sedum, Scarlet Runner Bean, Jersulam Artichoke, and the invasive <a href="http://bcinvasives.ca/search/results/1708aa0cb72d0a47fbd5641916571b79/" target="_blank">Japanese Knotweed</a> (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs904.pdf" target="_blank">Nectar Plants of British Columbia</a>). A mixed diet is beneficial for the girls so some other late blooming plants are Caryopteris 'Dark Knight' (Blue Mist Spirea), Dahlia, Hardy Fushia, Seven Sons flower (Autumn Lilac), Impatiens omeianan, Camellia sinensis (Hardy tea bush) and Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Olive) (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a> and <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.de/p/plants_5661.html" target="_blank">Pollen Sources</a>). I will avoid the temptation to plant the invasive late blooming ivy and Himalayan Balsam. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWvv6cHFiS4tVMh2rj3aShfG-ftEHb3xQCQBqAzz14Mvfj-U_RjWhXQH4oKZUHDKMTvmWY-calIAP_kYUxdT0u10whVbi5Vvq_uoYRUyBJZyn5c1g3Ejsw08bEueLRFRTa_QOiBA3mfs/s1600/800px-Bee_and_Goldenrod_3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWvv6cHFiS4tVMh2rj3aShfG-ftEHb3xQCQBqAzz14Mvfj-U_RjWhXQH4oKZUHDKMTvmWY-calIAP_kYUxdT0u10whVbi5Vvq_uoYRUyBJZyn5c1g3Ejsw08bEueLRFRTa_QOiBA3mfs/s400/800px-Bee_and_Goldenrod_3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goldenrod</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJclLT9bcVIRh6FA22CLA8wketcWKvmBZejLgx4eqdxFBde7LjlXNdps2l_bVp8IJiy3j8Tnjz7VtTJN1_Sqo4H2qodgnRq1tP2CVClDjDE06GGEYBB04Ms8osh2vYUaTtqe1Md-8NaRA/s1600/asterrrrr_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJclLT9bcVIRh6FA22CLA8wketcWKvmBZejLgx4eqdxFBde7LjlXNdps2l_bVp8IJiy3j8Tnjz7VtTJN1_Sqo4H2qodgnRq1tP2CVClDjDE06GGEYBB04Ms8osh2vYUaTtqe1Md-8NaRA/s400/asterrrrr_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aster</td></tr>
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<b><span> </span></b><span><span style="font-size: normal;">It's good at this point to make sure you have your emergency winter
feeders ready if you plan to use them. A major cause of colony death is late winter starvation
(February - April) which can be solved by the use of an emergency
winter feeder like this one from Beverly Bees (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Candy Board</a>). During a prolonged cold spell bees may be unable to access honey on the other side of the box. A candy board directly above can be a lifesaver.<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXy6mKJGh42FFWwzo5WdfdMqmgty22VlOHy2TQzCYHEV3uLWosYGFFKhcpPHhYMrwMXGSpKD9X2b63EW8xjG0AW-CQuMI-kmeUFl1nO-LhHVgkGD7PeaZX_yQtlQ1AraEcblbU2xBR8g/s1600/Candy+board_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXy6mKJGh42FFWwzo5WdfdMqmgty22VlOHy2TQzCYHEV3uLWosYGFFKhcpPHhYMrwMXGSpKD9X2b63EW8xjG0AW-CQuMI-kmeUFl1nO-LhHVgkGD7PeaZX_yQtlQ1AraEcblbU2xBR8g/s400/Candy+board_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Candyboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span>They're
easy to build with 1x4's and quarter or half inch wire mesh and can be a colony
lifesaver. You can quickly check on the feeders through the late
winter to gauge the status of the food supply (<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2020/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a>). </span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> In the Greater Vancouver area there are some differences in winter food requirements based on available foraging days
and available forage. Because of the effect of the North Shore
Mountains precipitation varies from 150+ inches (380 centimeters)
annually at the upper altitudes of the mountains to 30 inches (75
centimeters) along the U.S. border. This effect reduces precipitation
and increases hours of sunlight as you move southward. It can be sunny in the south and cloudy and rainy by the mountains. An obvious benefit to late and early season foraging. This is particularly beneficial in March and April when we have a lot of flowering plants available but marginal foraging weather. The graph below
divides Greater Vancouver into 9 zones with 9 being the upper altitudes
of the North Shore Mountains and 1 being the southern region along the
U.S. border (<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/clzry9yrghgpdyf/Greater%20Vancouver%20Rainfall.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">Greater Vancouver Precipitation</a>). As the crow flies this is a distance of less than 30 kilometers or 20 miles.</span><br />
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<span>Though
active at lower temperatures I have found high population foraging in
our apiary at 12 degrees celsius (53 fahrenheit) in March (Willow trees,
Forsythia, Flowering Cherry).</span><br />
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<span>This
means more flyable, foraging weather the further south you live and the
more active the colony with the additional needed sunshine warming the
hive and bees. The activity of the bees is directly linked to the number of hours of sunlight
on the hives. For optimum colony health maximize the
sun exposure on your hives (South to southeast exposure with minimal
shade). We moved our apiary because it was surrounded by fast growing
Black Locust, Willow and Cottonwood trees (Great pollen and nectar
sources). Other than occasional bearding the hives didn't seem adversely affected by the extreme heat this summer (2021 - 40 celsius/ 100 fahrenheit). * Update: Unfortunately we had 3 times the normal rainfall this September followed by temperatures 3-4 degrees cooler than normal in October decreasing the available foraging time. Feeding may be essential for most. Check your winter food supply. </span><br />
<span> Also effecting food availability and feeding in preparation for winter is whether you are in a rural
agricultural or urban setting. The rural, agricultural areas in Surrey,
Delta and the Fraser Valley tend to have extreme honey and brood
production during crop blossoms but can suffer in the off season while
the urban areas tend to have a more consistent food source availability
throughout the foraging period (March - November) due to urban
landscaping and irrigation. </span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> The honey frames should be
positioned on both sides of the cluster in the bottom box and above the
cluster in the second super (super = hive box). If the cluster is in an
upper box it's recommended to switch the box to the bottom in
preparation for winter. In the spring you can reverse that process as
the girls will have worked their way up to upper part of the second box.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s1600/Capture_0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s400/Capture_0.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter cluster at the end of winter </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> For
a Kenyan Top Bar put the cluster at one end and the honey frames next
to the cluster. I've often run all deep supers in my Langstroth hives
because universal boxes and frames are easier to manage. I can add
honey frames from my third or fourth box to the brood boxes to over
winter. Many new beekeepers and some old are moving towards all medium
boxes because of the lighter weight. This makes sense as a deep box of
honey can weigh 80 lbs (36 kgs).</span><br />
<span> All beekeepers have plus
and negative food accumulation months and generally April 1 to Oct 1 are
positive food accumulation months for us in Vancouver. March and October can be neutral but are usually negative depending on
the available foraging days (weather). November through February are
winter cluster, negative food accumulation months.</span><br />
<br />
<span><b><span><a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandpests" target="_blank">Pest and Disease Control</a> </span></b><span> </span></span> <br />
<span>Pest and disease identification and control should be an ongoing process and if you are beginning now it may be too late. Evidence of chalk brood or nosema would indicate a weak colony (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandparasites" target="_blank">Honey Bee Diseases and Parasites</a>). Increased ventilation and removal of old comb can be done to combat the chalk brood and a <a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/nosema-ceranae/treatment-for-nosema/" target="_blank">pollen patty/fumagillin mixture</a> may help combat the nosema. Mite counts throughout the year and subsequent treatments should let you know whether you have a major issue. <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#varroamites" target="_blank">Mite treatments</a> like formic acid can continue into October as long as there is a day time high temp of 10c and although oxalic acid was traditionally done in December when there is little to no brood present (it does not effect mites in the brood) it is now a year round treatment option. A mistake made by many beekeepers is to treat in August and with a large, healthy colony and assume everything is fine. Continue mite tests and treatment through September. If needed I will start my final formic acid treatment in the middle of September. A reduced screened entrance using eighth inch hardware cloth can be used to allow for needed ventilation during formic acid treatments while providing a more easily defended (against wasps) reduced entrance. I staple the eighth inch hardware cloth to the bottom board and first brood box. I find this a necessity as the yellowjacket wasps are very aggressive starting in August. </span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> The video below "Getting Your Hives Ready for Winter" is a recorded webinar with Kim Flottum (Bee expert and editor of Bee Culture magazine) which does a very good job of discussing winter preparation for bee colonies focusing on year around mite control. Controlling mites goes a long way to controlling virus transmission and overall colony health.</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wxk5at5Pqps?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
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<span><b><span>Cold and Moisture</span></b></span><br />
<span>The <a href="https://beeinformed.org/results/the-bee-informed-partnership-national-management-survey-2014-2015/" target="_blank">U.S. Bee Informed Survey</a> of wintering hives (the only large scale North American winter survival survey) showed that only 3 conditions determined winter survival success and they were adequate food, strong colonies (equalization or combining hives) and ventilation (moisture reduction).</span><br />
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<span>The survey is extensive and includes the results for geographic region, all types of pest and disease management, feeding and winter preparation. <a href="https://bip2.beeinformed.org/survey" target="_blank">The Bee Informed Survey 2016 - 2017</a></span><br />
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<span>Wrapping and insulation showed no benefit but I think that depends on where you live. If you live in cold northern climates like <a href="http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-deep-freeze-as-cold-as-uninhabited-planet-1.2479967" target="_blank">Winterpeg</a> either you wrap and insulate or you bring the girls inside. 40 below is 40 below. While insulation is not traditionally necessary in Vancouver (we have a mild winter climate and rarely get much below freezing) I know some that do with good results. Insulation could be counter productive by keeping the heat out and preventing the hive from warming up by the sun (Sun in Vancouver in winter?). However, insulation under the outer cover is effective at minimizing the temperature difference and resulting condensation between the outside and inner hive (With half inch R5 insulation no moisture and mold, without both). Some local beekeepers wrap their hives with black roofing paper to prevent wind penetration and to help absorb the heat (<a href="http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=3873" target="_blank">Black objects absorb more heat</a>). It may be helpful but an argument against this is that the girls take care of wind penetration with use of propolis and do we want a warmer hive in the winter? Warmer means more active bees and more food consumption. For us wrapping in March may be a good option as we have lots of blossoms (Willow, forsythia, flowering cherry, bulbs ...) but marginal foraging temperatures. Wrapping would warm the hives and get the girls flying earlier in the day increasing their pollen and nectar intake and stimulate egg laying. This winter with a prolonged forecast of -12 Celsius (10 Fahrenheit) I insulated and wrapped the hives. Over the 2 week period we had cold temps and high winds. Sunny and 6 Celsius (43 Fahrenheit) today I checked the hives and all were well and active with lots of cleansing flights (poop breaks) and house cleaning (removing dead bees). One particularly strong 8 frame cluster came to greet me in an unfriendly manner when I added the candy board. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temperature difference on black and white surface</td></tr>
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</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> Wintering your bees is like real estate value in that the 3 most important
considerations are location, location and location. Location
dictates the methods you will use to protect your bees from the
elements. Windbreaks are essential in some areas where there are cold,
winter winds, especially for rooftop beekeepers. In winter Vancouver has a predominant, low pressure weather pattern with
winds from the southeast that bring with it fairly constant cool, wet weather. We have only a few snow falls per year and a few weeks of freezing temperatures. Therefore moisture, not cold is our biggest issue. The moisture is created when warm air created by the cluster of bees rises and contacts the cold inner cover creating cold condensation which drips onto the cluster. There are a lot of different methods to reduce moisture in the hive from dripping on the cluster like tilting the hive forward by putting a 2x4 under the back of the hive to allow the moisture to run down the front of the hive and not on the cluster and/or as mentioned above insulating under the outer cover. Another option is an <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a> placed above the hive boxes to reduce cold condensation dripping on the winter cluster.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s1600/Stage+18_1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s640/Stage+18_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bee hive in winter without any form of moisture reduction</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s1600/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s400/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulated Moisture Quilt</td></tr>
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<span><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> The heat produced by the cluster rises to contact the warmer insulated cover producing less condensation, which then drips onto the wood chips (not the bees) which are dried by the vent holes. They are easy to make out of scrap material and the link above provides detailed building instructions. </span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> During winter you must have an upper entrance in your Langstroth hive for ventilation and because dead bees or snow can block the lower entrance. For moisture reduction in a Kenyan Top Bar Hive beekeepers can use an insulated moisture quilt, carpet over the top bars (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Bill Stagg's method</a>) or reflective insulation (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Sam Comfort's method</a>). Whether you leave your screened bottom board open or not (for increased ventilation) is debatable but if left open you must block the drafts from blowing under the hive. I put the mite test board in to block the winter winds but have friends who do not and successfully overwinter their bees. </span><br />
<span> In Vancouver we get at least 2 major storms a year of 80+ km winds (50 miles per hr). For this reason and the presence of skunks and racoons we use cinder blocks (ratchet straps are another option) on our hives to prevent the outer cover from blowing off or being removed and have positioned the hives to have a natural wind break (berm to the south). A wind break is particularly important for roof top beekeepers. Though not necessary some of us use pieces of plexiglass extending 4+ inches over our outer covers to provide additional weather protection and extend the life of our beekeeping equipment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Winter Hive</b></span></span><br />
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<span><b><span><a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wasps" target="_blank">Wasps</a></span></b></span><br />
<span>With the decrease in available forage robbing and
wasp attacks become a real concern starting in August so guard bees will become more
defensive and in the wild the colony may reduce the size of the entrance
with propolis and wax. The beekeeper can assist by reducing the
entrance to as small as 1.5 centimeters or a half inch to make it easier
to defend (weaker colonies). In Vancouver wasps have been more aggressive, longer into the winter over the last few years. I received a swarm call recently in December. There had been a few hard frosts so out of interest (knowing it wasn't a swarm) I went to see a very active paper yellowjacket nest in an unheated crawl space. The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a>
and to a lesser degree Bald Faced Hornets are usually aggressive in our apiary starting in August, attempting to
enter hives and picking off stray bees at the entrance. This year I used eigth inch cloth as an entrance reducer to allow for mite treatment. This blocks potential wasp intrusion and robbing
by other
bees
if you are feeding and still allows ventilation. The girls are better able
to defend the reduced single entrance. Wasps will stay active at cooler temperatures than your bees so when the girls are in cluster the wasps may enter the hive. I don't indiscriminately kill
wasps (I've identified 9 different types in our garden including a parasitic wasp in my blue mason and leaf cutter bee cocoons) but have found them
increasingly aggressive towards our colonies for a longer period of time
in the fall (last year until December). I've found the pheremone lure variety wasp trap to
be very effective on our greatest threat which are the common <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a> (does not attract Bald Faced Hornets). This lure trap can also be used in the spring to kill the emerging wasp queens. The <a href="http://www.rescue.com/product/why-trap-wasps-hornets-yellowjackets" target="_blank">Rescue</a> brand lure variety works well but the bait only lasts for about 5 days so can be expensive.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wasp trap</td></tr>
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<span>You can also make your own wasp trap. Here is a
study from the University of Athens showing the effectiveness of 3
different types of traps (<a href="http://www.bulletinofinsectology.org/pdfarticles/vol59-2006-135-145bacandritsos.pdf" target="_blank">Wasp Traps</a>). Maybe the easiest and most popular is the<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Wasp-Trap" target="_blank"> pop bottle trap</a>. We have a number of these out now with a 50/50 mixture of sugar and water and a capfull of vinegar poured in the entrance to keep the bees away. They have worked well but you need to add a capfull of vinegar occasionally to dissuade the bees. Here is a study from the University of California
on the effectiveness of different baits (<a href="http://www.pestboard.ca.gov/howdoi/research/2009_yellowjacket.pdf" target="_blank">Baits for the Control of Yellowjackets</a>). I've not had much success with fish or meat baits later in the summer. These protein baits are successful earlier in the season when the wasps are feeding their brood. Wasps prefer a sugar and water bait at this time of year. For more information on wasps go to the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wasps" target="_blank">Wasp</a> section of our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeeping Library</a>. </span><br />
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<span>If wasp attacks or robbing persists and they gain access to your hive you can use a <a href="http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/files/147611.pdf" target="_blank">robber screen</a> which are easy to make.</span></div>
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<span>Due to the homeless camp next to our hives last year we had a noticeable increase in our ground tunneling rat population this year which I believe resulted in a decrease in ground nesting yellowjacket wasps. <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2012/12/charles-darwin-and-bumblebee-humble-bee.html" target="_blank">Charles Darwin and his children studied</a> ground nesting bumble bees and found that the population of bumble bees was dependant on old maids who kept cats who killed the rats allowing for greater bumble bee ground nesting success. We don't have any cats though this summer a pair of Sharp-shinned hawks moved in to help with the over population of rats. </span> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<span><b><span>Equalization, Combining Colonies or Requeening</span><span> </span></b></span> <br />
<span> It is recommended that new beekeepers have
2 hives rather than 1 because inevitably one will be stronger than the other. This allows you to strengthen the weaker hive with bees from the
stronger colony (<a href="http://countryrubes.com/template/images/Equalization_of_Bee_Colonies_Strength_update_9_09.pdf" target="_blank">Equalization of Bee Colonies Strength by Khalil Hamdan</a>) or to split the stronger hive if you lose the weaker colony. Though this can be done in the spring it can also be done in preparation for winter by adding 2-3 frames
of bees and brood as needed. However, if you have a weak colony it's likely you have a sick colony or weak queen which would suggest treatment and/or requeening. You can also combine the weaker colony with a stronger one using the newspaper method (<a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/unitenewspaper.html" target="_blank">Uniting Honey Bees by David Cushman</a>). Although some will insist it imperative to kill the weaker queen others like the late, great <a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/" target="_blank">David Cushman</a> suggest that it is not necessary: "Many texts will tell you to kill the least desirable queen in one of the
two groups to be united, but I find it is often prudent to leave both
queens, so that the bees can make the choice, in most cases the younger
and fitter queen remains, but there may be subtle things in a queen's
make up that the bees are better able to make
choices about rather than the beekeeper (David Cushman)." </span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span> </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The newspaper method of combining hives</td></tr>
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In October most beekeepers reduce their Langstroth hives to 2 deep supers (3 mediums) and Kenyan Top Bar hives are reduced by moving your follower board or your false backs forward (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/cv4940rtyau4hivphwed" target="_blank">Winterizing your Top Bar Hive</a>). Queen excluders should be removed so the queen can move with the cluster as it moves upward<br />
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<span><b><span>Mice</span></b> </span> <br />
<span>Though still mild it's time to think of mice which like to winter
in the hives. There are a hundred different varieties of mouse proof
entrances from quarter inch screened mesh, drilled metal sheet to simple
nails minimizing the entrance. The mice can get through a fairly small area and will chew through wood. I use a simple wood entrance reducer with a nail reducing the entrance to just over the width of a bee. This allows for the removal of dead bees which the girls do as part of winter house cleaning. If you find the mice chewing on the entrance reducer you can wrap it in wire mesh. Here is an easy <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2013/11/04/making-mouse-guards-2013/" target="_blank">step by step guide to making a mouse guard from Brooksfield Farm</a> just south of us near Mt. Baker.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-qaXr6ZXSWFgt37ObLZN7pGrBNvSOM-Etk1dLOHwAIdvh05p8t_epG8Tn1_HlITCn0Zu-ckbu7NZ7qCSXDcLI5iEE0t12om05_KfRdTZP9R-BgL3oTHrGLczOXMcG3xoMdnI7vf2pSc/s1600/mouse_6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-qaXr6ZXSWFgt37ObLZN7pGrBNvSOM-Etk1dLOHwAIdvh05p8t_epG8Tn1_HlITCn0Zu-ckbu7NZ7qCSXDcLI5iEE0t12om05_KfRdTZP9R-BgL3oTHrGLczOXMcG3xoMdnI7vf2pSc/s400/mouse_6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficult house cleaning</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s1600/mouse2_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s400/mouse2_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire mesh mouse proof entrance reducer</td></tr>
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</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> <span>For more information on wintering your colonies check out the recorded webinars by Kim Flottum, <a href="http://youtu.be/Wxk5at5Pqps" target="_blank">"Getting your hives ready for winter" </a> or
<a href="http://youtu.be/OdA1SnRKi90" target="_blank">"Putting the hive to bed for winter"</a>. You may also want to check out <a href="https://app.box.com/s/x1ewocs9t5tt94xltb21">The Biology and Management of
Colonies in Winter</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi">Winterization
Guide for Beekeeping</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/ajcqvuu8e6z3yutmxkzl">The
Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies</a> or <a href="https://app.box.com/s/csires9qmv2ylz0c21o5">Wrapping a Honey Bee Colony
with Tar Paper</a> from the "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/basic-beekeeping_26.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>. Good luck to you and your bees and stay dry. </span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-31686481994340448302021-06-05T16:42:00.044-07:002021-09-22T20:34:01.023-07:00Where's the Bees?!<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQFyOyTnEdUsjEqkaw_ax1rUYB-v5vvvg26j0ff3h2X1MC9ahk0EBdzVQ0E800oW2icfSA2Bmibg3SFH-3sh5SLQn2WxFz-Lbjf-ZCpGoGcwodZOrIwpwcwm_6jKLoYGlam5iTIVrl1ww/s848/wheres+the+bees.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQFyOyTnEdUsjEqkaw_ax1rUYB-v5vvvg26j0ff3h2X1MC9ahk0EBdzVQ0E800oW2icfSA2Bmibg3SFH-3sh5SLQn2WxFz-Lbjf-ZCpGoGcwodZOrIwpwcwm_6jKLoYGlam5iTIVrl1ww/s320/wheres+the+bees.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> <b>Where's the bees?</b> There are no honey bees for sale in our area of the world right now and have not been for some time. Packages and nucs were sold out long before they were available and a result is the prices have risen considerably much like the real estate prices here. </p><p> In our area of the world, which is the city of Vancouver (nestled in the Fraser Valley - approximately 120 km by 50 km and 3 million people) over 90% of honey bees are employed in primarily commercial blueberry pollination. Why the shortage of honey bees? It would be either an increase in agricultural need or shortage of bee population. Every year we lose agricultural acreage to urban development so an increased need should not be the cause. We might deduce a heavy winter loss and/or more likely covid-19 distribution challenges. </p><p> We have for several decades been completely dependent on nations to the south for our bee supply. Every spring we import thousands of packages of bees from the southern hemisphere for commercial pollination and backyard use (<a href="https://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs002.pdf" target="_blank">Importing Queens and Packaged Bees to B.C.</a>). We have a real lack of local nuc and package production (including <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlVHJISGU5RmxDbFk/view" target="_blank">overwintered nucs</a>, <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlV3JMbW9ZbmlCbFE/view?resourcekey=0-UWiGME8BZ3lZe6cyd46iaQ" target="_blank">banked queens</a> and <a href="https://watermark.silverchair.com/toaa102.pdf?token=AQECAHi208BE49Ooan9kkhW_Ercy7Dm3ZL_9Cf3qfKAc485ysgAAAp0wggKZBgkqhkiG9w0BBwagggKKMIIChgIBADCCAn8GCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQM3tCKgPDLKetH9YklAgEQgIICUEEKykCM5BtAY3D9W7fk9VgxqlSMg7xcrC0gcKScv5CU9P76MqQa1vxMqDFIKRMtlbdZ25c_IR7kzCNl2Xoso14-xKsVLjnpxTu5TDRZl9nYIIXMKK5Nez9iXG16ehjSN2Lg6z3F3Lx5COB3el95XMXw5cwovNOgPHGUlJn6sH3hjjwFxnBkfRtkYwCW6eZargzbPMpJ8DSJOY4HVvXRNBHoQX-ux2ZZzNTN6AJXdd-o4oVZgGRzevftjNjU32AeV43hFK_RDFRdcLVi3MsfehqaPAkEMTw_vIbcQJM2TyU61TUwCMqfL1KshHALk2BGYBl-i7XTEyZW4we_rWrNGVrBtCwxSNq4C7p1YSaep1a37dSkqmsc5VH2AqMTyfid9063dNYsHErA0ViFSwJ6dD0gVBOTC5q1v8bzgy7Ka6TzA9PppvunNG4ALSbR4VxWfpAf4SFxv9dNs4er8U-FyogVpy9PXskunEpsa-8TUdNIUTjQTwQMnypqojP1xtvaLlzXYijw2GMGBIPmzvvevV5N07kGLBc5V7DT99BRyvhdKRKM2A_hWeX3BUVn7KfD7ORzvvZIatrZujABPn_f11smgSG3dSnscaAnnnrhOfPY40CwPOS0JdQYjlbXnrw0VM3-RbDO7UY6dE3p269NTacFdicHeaSNQRdi_XYm_dtLjzXm9lyu8ivDBWy0AqzB08xFnVKO4KtFMIs86BdykzSw1OHumes4H5MOJfdx1tou6DihWrA4RT38OfSUxxmdwrTDfsMG8TkmCy1t0Cxoxxc" target="_blank">domestic queen production</a>) and little has been done to improve this situation for decades despite our awareness that our major beekeeping problems are imported (Varroa, AFB ...). We seem content with the economic equation of package importation and an <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2013/11/no-us-bees-for-canada.html" target="_blank">American boycott</a>. Prior to the 1987 Canadian government blockade of U.S. bees we imported our bees from the southern U.S. (323,000 packages in 1984). </p><p> We need a concerted effort by our government and the beekeeping industry to support and develop local nuc and package production as suggested by Punnett, Mitchell and Winston in the 1980's (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb0NKRW1ZakVoRmM/view?pref=2&pli=1" target="_blank">Package and Nucleus production</a>, <a href="https://academic.oup.com/jee/article-abstract/78/5/1037/2214449?redirectedFrom=fulltext" target="_blank">Feasibility of Package Honey Bee Production</a>, <a href="https://academic.oup.com/jee/article-abstract/79/4/952/812862?redirectedFrom=fulltext" target="_blank">Timing of Package Honey Bee Production and the use of 2 Queen Management</a>). The studies suggest that it could be an economically viable industry and in the 30 years since advances have been made on the science of overwintering queens and bees. I think it's also important to control the genetic nature of your bee population with the development of optimum <b>localized</b>, hygienic stock. This could be a long term 20+ year project with government financial incentives (including tax) like the <a href="https://iafbc.ca/bee-bc/?utm_source=Growing+Today+eNewsletter&utm_campaign=5f52b94f12-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_07_21_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e72ef34781-5f52b94f12-49275015" target="_blank">BC Bee program</a> and sponsorship in coordination with the beekeeping industry and <a href="https://beehive.ubc.ca/research" target="_blank">university efforts</a> with the clear objective of <b>self sufficiency</b>. Perhaps a government funded beekeeping centre in the Fraser Valley completely dedicated to the raising of bee colonies and queens. I think it should be part of our collective food sovereignty philosophy. Then maybe we won't have to ask, "<b>Where's the Bees?!</b>" </p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px;"><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p></p></blockquote></blockquote>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, B.C., Canada50.2283622 -121.856268427.592813318855242 -157.0125184 72.863911081144749 -86.7000184tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-28546664009947943902021-03-13T12:52:00.004-08:002023-02-02T21:41:28.767-08:00Honey Bee Nucs vs Packages<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLh9BQAOkPeBuitRXWWBuBRZxkCkUQVH296TAQU2QvimLKJlDN_0-Bw_jMMPJ0rIEiiIQSNqTaaYDDdDdSTklM-c6fvEQUCS6lVZqt5CcBhl33leRIz8uuQ5ZVZR4tp4nP9yxolEXsM4/s1600/Untitled+picture.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLh9BQAOkPeBuitRXWWBuBRZxkCkUQVH296TAQU2QvimLKJlDN_0-Bw_jMMPJ0rIEiiIQSNqTaaYDDdDdSTklM-c6fvEQUCS6lVZqt5CcBhl33leRIz8uuQ5ZVZR4tp4nP9yxolEXsM4/s1600/Untitled+picture.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /> Whether to buy a bee nuc or package depends like a lot of things on your location and needs. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>Nucs</u></b></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> A nuc (nucleus of a colony) consists of 4-5 frames of bees in a half sized Langstroth deep box which should include a laying queen, 2 frames of brood, 2 frames of honey and/or pollen and possibly a fifth frame of drawn comb. Local nucs for us are usually available starting in mid May. The reason for this is the queen requires temperatures 15-20 C. (60-70 F.) to mate and the formation of drone congregation zones. In some locations there is a supply of overwintered nucs which are made in August. The benefits of using a nucleus over a package are that you have a fully functioning colony with a laying queen and brood pattern you can see. You also have bees in all stages of development from egg to forager. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwYtZfS2EGrAJFxAem2diJJL0jqXEzVr4bKtEVWpKG-OK3_SScICIRb6Sv9Xo2Dr5_s8IANi6rDwGHU_PGqei0Mh_A9PSub7DcL2Ou35AuiR9WPP286JJWCJh4Lg9t4TmXDXfALzcptQ/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="576" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwYtZfS2EGrAJFxAem2diJJL0jqXEzVr4bKtEVWpKG-OK3_SScICIRb6Sv9Xo2Dr5_s8IANi6rDwGHU_PGqei0Mh_A9PSub7DcL2Ou35AuiR9WPP286JJWCJh4Lg9t4TmXDXfALzcptQ/w400-h299/image.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good brood pattern</td></tr></tbody></table><br /> Unless it is an overwintered nuc produced in the late summer the queen should be a new queen (born this spring). The queen is established (brood pattern visible) and the worker bees in a nucleus colony know their roles so there are nurse bees and foragers and the foundation is set (drawn comb) which will put them at least a few weeks ahead of an imported package. Because there are foragers and at least 2 frames of honey and pollen the nucleus will not require as much feeding. Also, with local nucs there is no climatic and forage stress. A negative aspect of nucs is they are available for us l.5-2 months later than packages and may come on old, dark colored frames and nuc boxes that may contain diseases. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXrB5IMEtbvS0FZ-umSwX-qsb9HptBMTC9dddVRQRKwDzv-4deZuJKS8PCblqmM9z3O06PKemxIfYV6VcUkfF3VWoAeJ32tV_3xTYpyYux9k34dqsyLt9WZXT7plUnXB9xALLRHjLAvo/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="204" data-original-width="300" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXrB5IMEtbvS0FZ-umSwX-qsb9HptBMTC9dddVRQRKwDzv-4deZuJKS8PCblqmM9z3O06PKemxIfYV6VcUkfF3VWoAeJ32tV_3xTYpyYux9k34dqsyLt9WZXT7plUnXB9xALLRHjLAvo/w400-h272/image.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honey frame</td></tr></tbody></table><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-n2mtU49rDutVdjypfU9iUx-hyQDYv_ktY71lEAZMK-TO38aY6ksXV7gWOmfoClI-CKSU_5j1-XNixqrXu_mBR7EcyH9RXldDVwAXKfSH6uAHCHLX418WhbHzBE6braNShvs3ql71wRM/s910/Screenshot_2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="910" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-n2mtU49rDutVdjypfU9iUx-hyQDYv_ktY71lEAZMK-TO38aY6ksXV7gWOmfoClI-CKSU_5j1-XNixqrXu_mBR7EcyH9RXldDVwAXKfSH6uAHCHLX418WhbHzBE6braNShvs3ql71wRM/s16000/Screenshot_2.png" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><b style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Packages</u></b></div></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> A typical package consists of 2-3 pounds of bees, a can of syrup and a queen. A 3 lb package is optimum for most as a 2 lb will be underpopulated and a 4 lb may experience some die off with less accessibility to the syrup can. Normally the package bees are from production hives where they shake out bees into the package box til the required weight is reached. A mated queen is then placed in the package, protected in a queen cage. There is usually a container of syrup in the package to feed the bees for the few days of travel before they are transferred to a hive. The bees generally fair well for up to a week in a package. A package is usually put together a few days before sold and in the case of cold weather beekeepers in spring comes from a warmer location to the south. In our case because of government restrictions (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2013/11/no-us-bees-for-canada.html" target="_blank">No U.S. Bees to Canada</a>) this means thousands of miles south from New Zealand, Australia or Chile. Many backyard beekeepers will not have drawn frames to install their packages on to so a lot of energy and feeding will be required to produce the wax to draw out the frames. With a package close attention needs to spent on the survival and performance of the new queen.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCwncWisd9xwqXIaTgO6ssLhGbNXPjZ-2fH30qrcc4BDarWRR4MLp1ZbR8xdb8mNFkJqIBNVx5heO1YIYEsV1K191uY-Um59Un80VJVT3kxUj6ePZwz0ygF2sM1GCNSY_vhD5pTjNwiuc/s1600/bad-comb.jpg.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCwncWisd9xwqXIaTgO6ssLhGbNXPjZ-2fH30qrcc4BDarWRR4MLp1ZbR8xdb8mNFkJqIBNVx5heO1YIYEsV1K191uY-Um59Un80VJVT3kxUj6ePZwz0ygF2sM1GCNSY_vhD5pTjNwiuc/s1600/bad-comb.jpg.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption">A lot of energy and feeding is required to draw out the comb<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">The video below shows the process of creating a package of bees.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The main advantage of the package is that in cold weather areas they are available a few months before local nucs which allows beekeepers to take advantage of spring fruit blossoms and to lengthen the beekeeping season. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> Packages are a necessity in some areas because of the lack of nucs
available. They are usually cheaper, have less pests and diseases (no comb) and can be
installed into any type of hive. Unlike the nuc you don't have bees in all stages of development and if queen acceptance and performance goes well it will take 3 weeks for new brood to be born and several weeks for the population to reach that of a 5 frame nuc. Despite the added challenges most beekeepers have success with packages. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihDRwzxXKrmcf8JLfaqp7FgCrslliPx8j_Mnfm27jQc0isvFRL7Anp5JlNA1Eb2z_CjnaNbdf_luZmeoNZVN6tQtp2NkN1B7QqldM7EnUK4hAVXtqGiy8bWpcAeAoLphT2W9qLqpozBHc/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="301" data-original-width="889" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihDRwzxXKrmcf8JLfaqp7FgCrslliPx8j_Mnfm27jQc0isvFRL7Anp5JlNA1Eb2z_CjnaNbdf_luZmeoNZVN6tQtp2NkN1B7QqldM7EnUK4hAVXtqGiy8bWpcAeAoLphT2W9qLqpozBHc/s16000/image.png" /></a></div><br /> In most areas the packages come from a
warmer climate so winter survival may be less likely as proven in a good,
small scale study carried out in New England by master beekeeper Erin
MacGregor-Forbes (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2arfqeyue2ktnodr5z6u" target="_blank">Comparison of colony strength and survivability between nucs and packages</a>).
This single study is certainly not conclusive evidence but suggests a problem with imported warm weather packages and a
need for more projects like this. Erin found a significant difference
in winter survival between the
southern package and nucleus (the nucs had twice the survival rate) but also found that a southern package with
a replaced local queen performed as well as the nucleus. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22JWIAI2v8YA_iJQzjLludeEIlJW34dj0_VOVjxSjPvXtND_UbpDCBi9JaDIBwgLXv56C3IxDXNSLYN_U9I9Vljsv22aykKzay6A7EHrT2PnoaA2RXLrpHV7hb7sFoFiDttDn5dLnU0s/s1600/Table2HiveStrength-xn5kvh.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22JWIAI2v8YA_iJQzjLludeEIlJW34dj0_VOVjxSjPvXtND_UbpDCBi9JaDIBwgLXv56C3IxDXNSLYN_U9I9Vljsv22aykKzay6A7EHrT2PnoaA2RXLrpHV7hb7sFoFiDttDn5dLnU0s/s1600/Table2HiveStrength-xn5kvh.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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In our situation bee packages may come from a similar climate but the opposite hemisphere so they leave the southern hemisphere in late summer and arrive in Canada a few days later in early Spring where it can be freezing temperatures and snowing (I have experienced this). This obviously can be hard on the bees. Erin also found in her study that the packages outperformed the nucs in terms of honey
production which she attributed to a high rate of swarming by the
nucleus colonies. I don't know if she
took measures to prevent swarming but this has not been my experience . I've not had exceptional problems
with nucs swarming but have used swarm prevention methods like
checkerboarding (Check out the "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#swarms" target="_blank">Swarms</a>" section in our Beekeepers' Library).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoG7zdjTzGoa1axXkRhE2RuK5XitGTd29SEBz0nLnxOca_7sg4xiKpyCeJ3rElA-h19VM0aCcoRAi5rNPEl0WJQmDKSDIHLiQFflT24KRjRk5skdb68dnoAnNrGGodNXrfzCiznHGd0Ek/s1600/Table1SurplusHoney-1lsa0rh.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoG7zdjTzGoa1axXkRhE2RuK5XitGTd29SEBz0nLnxOca_7sg4xiKpyCeJ3rElA-h19VM0aCcoRAi5rNPEl0WJQmDKSDIHLiQFflT24KRjRk5skdb68dnoAnNrGGodNXrfzCiznHGd0Ek/s1600/Table1SurplusHoney-1lsa0rh.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
<br /> The Prince William Regional Beekeepers Association in Virginia carried out a study which compared hives started from packages to those started from nucs which found a higher survival rate in nuc started hives, particularly evident in the second year (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a444FYMRWOUk_Q5OqdnWirdWM_dIrQrn/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Promoting Sustainable Beekeeping Practices Through Local Production of Nucs and Local Honeybee Queens</a>). One aspect of their study was the importation of Africanized bee genetics and small hive beetles. Importation of diseases and pests is perhaps the biggest challenge for beekeepers presently. <br /> A <a href="http://pwrbeekeepers.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/BANV-2011-Queen-Colony-Survival.pdf" target="_blank">survey</a> by the Beekeepers Assocition of North Virginia to determine if the source of queens effected colony winter survival found significant differences between southern imported queens (23%) and local queens (87%). While this is an extreme example I thinks it supports the theory of the benefits of local nucs over imported southern packages. </div><div> Biologist and author Mark Winston (<a href="http://books.google.ca/books?id=oDyWBAAAQBAJ&source=gbs_similarbooks" target="_blank">Bee Time: Lessons from the Hive</a>) suggests we need to wean ourselves off of this dependence on imported bees. In l985 he wrote "it is estimated that, at present colony densities, BC has the potential to produce 75,520 spring packages each year, and increased colony density and a higher level of commercial beekeeping could elevate this figure. Continued and increased package and nucleus production, coupled with increased wintering and queen production, could result in a high degree of Canadian self-sufficiency within the next few years (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/ucmicus2gf8guzzv7lu5d4gxjzs9hwho" target="_blank">l989 Study on package and nuc production in B.C.</a>)." That self-sufficiency was never realized. Large scale package and nuc production was never developed and with current 25-30% winter colony losses our dependence on imported packages will continue. The solution may be in the lowering of the winter loss rate through the development of a strong local, survivor stock with hygienic behavior and supporting the development of a large scale, local bee colony production industry. Government initiative, leadership and support may be essential for this to be realized.</div>
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In the video below Michael Palmer describes some of the difficulties associated with starting a bee hive from scratch using package bees including the lack of nurse bees for the new brood.<br />
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<div> <a href="https://bchoneyproducers.ca/bc-beebreeders/questions-for-nuc-suppliers/" target="_blank">Here are some questions you may want to ask your nuc supplier</a> and <a href="https://bchoneyproducers.ca/bc-beebreeders/questions-for-queen-producers/" target="_blank">some questions for queen purchasers</a> as suggested by the BC Honey Producers Association. For more information on nucs and packages check out "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/basic-beekeeping_26.html#splits,nucsandpackages" target="_blank">Splits, Nucs and Packages</a>" in the <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/basic-beekeeping_26.html" target="_blank">Basic Beekeeping</a> section of the Beekeepers' Library above. Also check out the articles on overwintering nucs by Kirk Webster, Mel Disselkoen and others in the "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/basic-beekeeping_26.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of our library. In Vancouver BC Beekeeping and Urban Bee usually sell packages from the southern hemisphere in March-April and nucs late May-June (<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/bees-for-sale-in-vancouver.html" target="_blank">Vancouver Bees for Sale</a>). Good luck.</div><div> <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-46458756611542451822021-01-02T19:48:00.011-08:002023-01-08T18:39:55.673-08:00Feeding Bees in Winter<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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One of the main reasons for bees not surviving winter is starvation, particularly in late winter/early spring. Depending on the length of your winter (no natural food source or too cold to forage) a full colony of bees in our northern regions will consume between 27-40 kgs (60-90 lbs) of honey. In our apiary in Vancouver we have found that a average sized colony requires 10-12 deep frames (30 kg or 66 lbs) to overwinter in a normal year. Every location is different. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Opening the hive in winter should be avoided but if necessary you can check if your hive is in need of winter feeding with a quick check on a nice day (not snowing or windy). This should take less than a minute and not require the lifting of frames. It's possible to avoid opening the hive by monitoring the weight (vs weight at beginning of winter) by simply lifting the back of the hive if you have experience or using a simple <a href="https://www.ebay.ca/itm/331418539867?chn=ps&dispItem=1" target="_blank">luggage scale</a>. Here is an example of a winter hive check.</div>
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In beekeeping it may vary yearly but months are either negative or positive in terms of food accumulation. In our temperate northern climate April to October are positive accumulation months, March and October are neutral depending on the weather and November through February are negative. </div>
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In some areas where there is a late summer dearth (lack of forage) beekeepers will feed a 2 to 1 sugar syrup mixture to ready their bees for winter. When the weather is still warm and there is not good forage, the bees are still very active and can consume a lot of their winter food supplies. This can occur for us in October. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <span style="font-size: large;"><b>Sugar</b></span> syrup is sometimes fed to bees in the spring and fall but below a certain temperature (approximately 12 C / 54 F) the bees are unable to dehydrate the liquid to store it. One issue to keep in mind when autumn feeding is the accumulation of stored uncapped syrup in frames which acts as a hive humidifier in winter. It's a good idea to minimize this. Some beekeepers maintain that the warmth from the cluster will be sufficient to heat a plastic baggy of syrup placed above the cluster at colder temperatures. I've not tried this. </div>
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When it is colder beekeepers can use a solid sugar feed in dry form as a sugar cake. In the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#feeding" target="_blank">Feeding</a>" section of our "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers Library</a>" you will find recipes for syrup, candy, pollen patties, grease patties, pollen substitute, essential oil mixtures, inverted sugar syrup and other bee food products. If you are using sugar make sure it is refined sucrose (table sugar) without impurities. Unrefined sugars have poisoned bees and brown sugar and molasses are toxic to bees (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/sl2jnjkw60o8czk76r85" target="_blank">Selecting sugars for feeding to Honey Bees</a>). While it was previously thought that high fructose corn syrup, which is used by many commercial beekeepers was chemically indistinguishable from honey a recent study (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/rkrzqem5f5ngcv2nz6hgh1jb1cvyhl9u" target="_blank">Honey elements induce detoxification and immunity</a>) found that honey contains important elements of pollen and propolis. These elements induce the detoxification and immunity genes and may help the bees cope with pesticides and pathogens. Feeding anything but their own honey is not a long term healthy alternative. </div>
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Some beekeepers believe that if you invert the sucrose (refined table sugar) by adding an acid (i.e vinegar) you will create a more natural food similar to honey and easier to digest. The inversion process changes the sucrose to fructose and glucose essentially the same as honey. However, there is no scientific evidence supporting this and bees actually perform the inversion in the digestive process in their honey stomach. </div>
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When feeding in winter you want to apply the food so that the girls do not have to leave their winter cluster. You can invert your inner cover to leave space to place the sugar cake or patty on top of the frames or build a simple spacer or eke. I use 2 inch feeding spacers similar to those used by Anita at Beverley Bees (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Beverley Bees Candy Board</a>) and a simple no cook sugar and water mixture. I add enough water (not much) that it sticks together and does not run down between the frames. I place the sugar/water mixture on paper with cuts in it for easier accessibility in the feeding spacer in place of the inner cover (it is removed) with a hole drilled as an upper entrance. Remember to make your spacer as small as possible as the ladies love to fill that space with comb and may do so rather quickly in the spring. You can feed the ladies dry sugar on paper (Michael Bush uses a <a href="http://bushfarms.com/beesfeeding.htm" target="_blank">dry granulated sugar</a> for cold weather feeding) on top of the frames wetted down with water (the hive humidity should keep it moist) or make a Sugar Cake. You can check quickly throughout the winter on nicer days (avoid windy,snowy days) and add as needed. Here is a demonstration by Philip from <a href="http://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mudsongs.org</a> adding a sugar cake on a winter day. </div>
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Here is a few simple recipes for those not as lazy as me:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fondant from Granulated Sugar</b></span></div>
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Fondant can be fed directly to the bees once cooled. They are a good
food source for mini-mating nucs because there is no drowning involved when
you have a small amount of bees. It is also common to use this recipe in small
quantities to plug the hole on a Queen Cage.
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Equipment:<br />
< 1 large saucepan<br />
< 1 Hand or electric mixer<br />
< 1 Cooking themometer<br />
< Shallow disposable setting pans (pizza)<br />
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Ingredients:</div>
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4 parts (by volume) granulated white sugar</span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">< 1 parts (by volume) water</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">< Optional 1 teaspoon white vinegar</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><span style="font-size: normal;">Boil
water and slowly add the sugar until dissolved, stirring constantly. Continue heating until
the mixture reaches 238°F (114°C). Without mixing allow the solution to cool
until it is slightly warm to the touch (200F). Then begin to mix (in a mixer) and aerate the</span> <span style="font-size: normal;">solution.
As you do this the color should turn white and creamy with air bubbles. Pour into shallow dishes or </span>mold
and allow to cool. To feed it can be placed directly on top of the frames or in a feeding spacer. You can make the fondant thin enough to where it can
be worked into an empty frame of drawn comb.</span>
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This video is a step by step process of how to make their version of fondant by the Northwest New Jersey Beekeepers Association.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Bee Candy</b></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Candy is not used as much as in the past because it's harder to make and work with. However here is the recipe for those not deterred by hard work.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Equipment:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Heavy duty cooking pans</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Large spoon for stirring</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Measuring jug</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Cooking themometer</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Plastic containers</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Enameled or pyrex dishes</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Ingredients:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Refined granulated white sugar</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Water</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Cooking oil</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Newspapers</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Pour 500 ml (1 pint) of water in a heavy saucepan and add 2 kgs. granulated sugar. Heat to the boiling point, stirring constantly to prevent the sugar burning on the bottom. Continue to boil til the syrup reaches 117 degrees centigrade (242 fahrenheit). Prepare your enamel or pyrex glass dish by coating with vegetable oil, then lining with a sheet of newspaper. Also, soak an old towel in cold water and lay it on a waterproof heat proof work surface. Once the boiling syrup has reached 117 degrees centigrade place it on the wet towel to cool. Stir the mixture continuously as it thickens. Stir only so long that the mixture can still be poured into the lined dishes. Allow to set and cool and to remove (when cooled) pull gently on the edges of the paper liner. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"> Here are a few other versions of fondant recipes from <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2014/01/30/making-bee-candy-aka-fondant/" target="_blank">Brookfield Farm</a> and <a href="http://www.303beekeeper.com/2009/11/recipe-fondant-for-winter-feeding.html" target="_blank">Backyard Beehive</a> or you can purchase it from a retailer. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Whether you use the above recipes or just dry granulated sugar you can check on your feed and add as needed whenever there is a break in the weather. Here is another video showing feeding at 40 fahrenheit (4 celsius). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pollen patties</b></span> (with sugar) provide both the carbohydrates from sugar and the proteins from pollen (usually pollen substitute) to stimulate brood production. T</span>he presence of new pollen substitute in the hive triggers the nurse bees to produce royal jelly to prepare the cells for queen egg laying. A good explanation of the importance of pollen by <a href="http://beespoke.info/" target="_blank">Beespoke Info</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://beespoke.info/2022/01/11/pollen-and-bees/" target="_blank">The Importance of Pollen</a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">"Protein is important because it is the building material for growth and tissue repair. As a measure of the importance of the protein in pollen, it has been shown that the amount available to a colony influences the size of the emerging brood. In fact it has been calculated that the amount of pollen required to rear a bee – from the hatching of the egg to the emergence of the adult – is between 120 and 145mg.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">But it doesn’t stop there because bees continue to grow after emergence. On average, emerging bees contain 13% protein (Witherell) but by the time they are 5 days old, the heads, thoraces and abdomens of young bees contain 93%, 38%,76%, more protein respectively than those of the newly emerged (Dietz). This huge increase is brought about by a massive consumption of pollen which is initiated within a very short time of emergence, perhaps as little as two hours, and rises to a peak at about 5-9 days old before gradually diminishing and eventually tailing off at 15-18 days (Dietz).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However not all this protein intake is used in growth of the bee or development of the hypopharyngeal glands because it is on about the 3rd day after emergence that the bees are directly employed in brood rearing, an activity that continues up until about the 13th day (Gary) and involves the passing on of pollen-derived protein to larvae in bee milk.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">During brood rearing, a nurse bee needs to digest about 10mg of pollen to produce 4mg of protein per day in brood food which is produced in the hypopharyngeal glands. The more protein that is available to the nurse bees either by concentration in, or sheer bulk of, pollen the more larvae a bee is able to feed."</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> We want to time the protein feeding to coincide with the main nectar, pollen flow which for us is early April (fruit flower). <span>In Vancouver pollen patties can be added as early as February. There is a </span><span>theory to begin feeding pollen patties 8 weeks prior to that flow. 3 weeks for the girls to be born, 3 weeks to become foragers and two weeks to build up the forager numbers. </span><span> Also, remember a brood break is good for the colony for many reasons. First of all no brood, no varroa reproduction. This means the colony can start the year with a minimal varroa population. Secondly, in cold climates in winter the center of the cluster may be only 20 celsius as opposed to 35 in summer resulting in chilled brood. Third, less bees means less food consumption and lastly a break for the queen. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> Pollen is the source of protein and nutrients for bees. The level of body protein in bees varies seasonally between 21-67% depending on the availability and type of pollen available and the amount of energy expended foraging and brood raising. Different blossoms produce different quality pollen. For example dandelions and blueberries produce a fairly low nutritional pollen while almond pollen is fairly high in nutrition. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0Atua6FENc/TxSunjAH12I/AAAAAAAAA2s/j7W-2eLoj_8/s1600/dandelion.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0Atua6FENc/TxSunjAH12I/AAAAAAAAA2s/j7W-2eLoj_8/s640/dandelion.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dandelion pollen, although attractive to bees lacks certain amino acids. Other types of pollen must be gathered in order to fully utilize the protein. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: medium;">Bees store protein in their bodies in the form of vitellogenin which directly determines their life span and immunological strength to fight diseases and pests. When the body protein level in bees drops it may take several weeks to recover. Low body protein level means low brood and honey production. A wide variety of pollens are essential for optimum bee health as each pollen provides different essential nutrients. The report, "<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a>" is an qualitative analysis of the pollen from different plants and trees. This is why pollen patties or pollen substitute patties are not as healthy as a natural variety of stored pollens but rather a diet supplement. Having said that research has shown that colonies receiving pollen supplements in early spring can produce 2-4 times the brood of a non supplemented colony. In addition the life span of worker bees is increased up to 15 days and consequently mid summer honey production is also increased. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span> The best protein source for supplemental feeding is of course pollen. Studies show that bees are attracted to pollen and consume significantly more when the patties contain pollen rather than pollen substitute. The graph below illustrates the benefits of pollen in supplemental feeding. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMDoZb2eVg9zlnKiBl6tJFEfxreIlDfehUYrMF3INuD4oB_LDo_3ZsmwHOpEmaBLI6SEO4UhA9HjDhYMxAqQwdlWj9i6EVQFDHBBzqlgDzydyMrJO1gLV9HQvVeFH2cNqtw9ob7DqGCg/s1600/Capturewwww.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMDoZb2eVg9zlnKiBl6tJFEfxreIlDfehUYrMF3INuD4oB_LDo_3ZsmwHOpEmaBLI6SEO4UhA9HjDhYMxAqQwdlWj9i6EVQFDHBBzqlgDzydyMrJO1gLV9HQvVeFH2cNqtw9ob7DqGCg/s1600/Capturewwww.PNG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span>Having said that pollen can be a carrier of bee diseases and if the source is unknown should be irradiated before use in a pollen patty. Since most beekeepers don't want to irradiate use your own pollen collected from healthy hives. The nutritional value of pollen diminishes quickly when dried and stored so it is best to freeze your pollen immediately after collecting without drying. It is recommended that you use between 3-5% pollen in your pollen patty and that your overall protein level be about 25%. The best protein supplements or alternatives to pollen are yeast and soy flour. Brewer's yeast has a 48-56% protein content and is a good but expensive protein source to stimulate brood production. The more affordable soy flour (48-50% crude protein level) appears to be more of an adult bee food stimulating activity in the hive. Due to these different benefits a combination of these protein sources is recommended. Other additives like pollard (mixture of fine bran and flour- vitamin and essential oil source), vegetable oil (feed palatability), vitamins and minerals and sugar (carbohydrate and energy source) can be utilized. I read recently where a local beekeeper is using herring meal as a protein source and no his honey doesn't taste like fish. Human vitamin and mineral supplements are made for mammals not bees so are not recommended. Always use fresh ingredients as nutritional values decrease with time and old soy flour may even be toxic to bees. Sugar is an attractant in your feed and vegetable oil (like soy or cotton seed) can make it more palatable. The patty should be placed directly over the winter bee cluster which is normally in the middle of the brood box as the bees will not leave the cluster if it is cold. You can invert your inner cover to make room for the pollen patty. If you find there is not enough room between your hive frames and your inner cover you can make a simple hive eke (an extender frame or shallow box). When I made my insulated moisture quilt (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a>) I left space over the frames for supplemental feeding. Pollen patties can usually be obtained from any beekeeping supply store but here are a few pollen or substitute pollen patty recipes. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span>Pollen Patty</span></b><b> </b><span>(3 different recipes)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">(<a href="http://www.al.gov.bc.ca/apiculture/" target="_blank">Government of B.C. Apiculture Department</a>)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">In supplement mixes, the percentage of pollen can be increased or decreased depending on availability.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">#1 3 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">#2 4 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 2 parts dry sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 2 parts lighter sugar syrup (2 sugar : 1 water)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">#3 10 parts Torula Type S Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 10 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Note: use 2 parts dry mix to 3 parts syrup</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span>Substitute Pollen Patty </span></b><span>(3 different recipes)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">#1 soybean flour only</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">#2 4 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 1 part Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">#3 10 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 6 parts casein</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 3 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"> 1 part egg yolk powder</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">In each case, add 4-5 parts of the dry mix to 2 parts heavy sugar syrup as indicated below in directions on preparation of patties.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Prepare patties as follows:
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Mix dry ingredients thoroughly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Mix a heavy syrup of 3 parts sugar to 1 part water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Slowly add 2 parts of syrup to 4-5 parts of dry mix (see dry mix formulas above), while kneading.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Leave overnight and knead again before flattening into a 1.5 cm cake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Cut into squares weighing about 0.5 kg (1 lb).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Place on wax paper and cover with another wax paper to prevent drying.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Here is a video from <a href="http://dchoneybees.com/DC_Honeybees_Site/Home.html" target="_blank">DC Honeybees</a> showing how to make a substitute pollen patty using these ingredients: </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span>1/2 lb yeast;</span><br />
<span>1/2 lb dried milk;</span><br />
<span>1.5 lb soy flour;</span><br />
<span>1/3 cup canola oil</span><br />
<span>juice of 1/2 lemon</span><br />
<span>a multi vitamin</span></span></div>
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Here are the folks from <a href="http://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mudsongs</a> installing a pollen patty.</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cBZCL33fNHY?rel=0" width="560"></iframe>
<br /> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> <span style="font-size: medium;"> For more information on feeding bees go to the "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/basic-beekeeping_26.html#feeding" target="_blank">Feeding</a>" section of our library and for more information on winter management go to the "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of our library.<br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: x-large;"><b>"There is no other field of animal husbandry like beekeeping. It has the appeal to the scientist, the nature lover, and even (or especially) the philosopher. It is a chance to work with some of the most fascinating of God's creatures, to spend time and do work in the great outdoors, to challenge my abilities and continue to learn. My hope is that I never become so frail with old age that I cannot spend my days among the bees. It gives credence to the old saw that "the best things in life are free". I thank God daily for the opportunity and privilege to be a beekeeper."</b></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-19349831068913961482020-12-13T15:55:00.010-08:002022-12-17T12:30:05.787-08:00Christmas Gifts for Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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At this time of year I'm especially appreciative that I have a roof over my head and food in my belly when so many in the world have neither. You don't need to be a Christian to celebrate the idea of Christmas
which should be a time of peace, love and selfless giving rather than
the modern concept of commercialized over consumption. Here are a few Christmas gift suggestions that we can give to beekeepers less fortunate than ourselves. <br />
In many countries beekeeping is a practical solution to reduce poverty and relieve suffering. Beekeeping requires little space, minimal cost and offers much needed income from the sales of honey, beeswax and pollen. In addition increased pollination from the introduction of these bees can substantially increase fruit and vegetable yields as well as pollinating native plants. For most beekeeping has become a supplement to the family income but for an increasing number it has become a major part of the village economy. This is one of reasons we created our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>, to provide free localized information to beekeepers worldwide. There are many good philanthropic beekeeping organizations worthy of your Christmas donations like "<a href="http://www.beesfordevelopment.org/" target="_blank">Bees for Development</a>", "<a href="http://www.icimod.org/?q=1497" target="_blank">ICIMOD</a>", <a href="https://www.trocaire.org/gifts/honey-bees/" target="_blank">Trocaire Gift of Honey Bees</a> and "<a href="http://beesabroad.org.uk/" target="_blank">Bees Abroad</a>".<br />
One organization on my gift list is "<a href="http://www.heifer.org/gift-catalog/animals-nutrition/honeybees-donation.html?msource=kwg2396" target="_blank">Heifer International</a>" which has been operating throughout the world for over 70 years. For a mere $30 you can give the gift of honey bees.
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<br /><b>Beekeeping in Nicaragua</b>. Cirila del Carmen Zambrana is a beekeeper and businesswoman who lives in the town of Villa Nueva in Nicaragua. Although men traditionally dominate the beekeeping field, Cirila and her cooperative of 13 other female beekeepers are shattering gender stereotypes. After receiving training and support from Heifer, the group began producing and selling high-quality honey. They also learned how to make products such as shampoo, soap and cream. The bees are not only a source of income — they are also effective pollinators, increasing nearby fruit and vegetable production and helping the forest adapt to climate change.<br />
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</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> Another worthy organization is the <a href="https://ashevillesistercities.org/mayan-melipona-bee/" target="_blank">Mayan Bee Sanctuary Project</a> (<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-stingless-honey-bee-of-maya.html" target="_blank">Stingless Honey Bee of the Maya</a>) which is dedicated to the welfare and sustainability of Maya women beekeeping honey producers in Yucatan, Mexico. In addition they hope to create sustainable Melipona bee populations and preserve traditional Maya beekeeping practices. This is particularly important in an area which like most of the world prefers the increased honey production of the European honey bee (<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/general-interest.html#africanizedbees" target="_blank">Africanized bee</a>). </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/47zgZbZvjM8" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> Although I grow much of my own food and support local, organic farmers an organization that I support at Christmas and throughout the year is <a href="http://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade</a>. Farmers in developing countries have traditionally been exploited by greedy food distribution corporations. A small portion of the price you pay for agricultural products from developing countries goes to the farmer. The concept of "Fair Trade" has empowered these farmers and provided them and their communities with a fair income which has allowed them a healthier, happier lifestyle. This documentary "Hope is Golden" is about the beekeeping cooperatives in Brazil’s arid Caatinga region that produce Fair Trade certified honey.<br />
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The Fair Trade organizations provide funding for the infrastructure required by farming cooperatives in developing countries. "<a href="http://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade International</a>" began 25 years ago and in 2012 the number of Fairtrade producing organizations grew by 16%. It works and it is growing. Each time you buy a Fair Trade product you are supporting the farmer and their family in the developing world rather than the multinational food distribution corporation. Buying "Fair Trade" products (honey, tea, chocolate, sugar, fruit, flowers and coffee), easily identifiable by the "Fair Trade" symbol is a good idea throughout the year.<br /> Organizations that I do not support or legitimize are Bayer/Monsanto's Bee Care and Syngenta's Operation Pollinator. There are a number of factors contributing to the demise of all species of bees including imported diseases, pests and diminished available forage, global warming but a major cause is the prophylactic overuse of agrichemicals. Monsanto, Bayer and Syngenta are in the process of monopolizing the world seed market with patented genetically modified seeds that contain or are designed to accept massive quantities of <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#pesticidesandbees" target="_blank">agrichemicals</a> that are dangerous to both bees and humans. Their bee programs are a public relations ploy to divert you from the true danger of their products.<br />
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<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div> There are also many worthy beekeeping organizations that carry out research based studies to help educate us to deal with the many challenges we face as beekeepers that could use our support. Organizations and individuals like <a href="https://scientificbeekeeping.com/" target="_blank">Scientific Beekeeping</a>, <a href="https://www.projectapism.org/" target="_blank">Project Apis m.</a>, <a href="https://bee-informed-partnership-inc.networkforgood.com/projects/104255-bip-s-autumn-fund-drive" target="_blank">Bee Informed</a>, <a href="https://xerces.org/" target="_blank">Xerces Society</a>, <a href="https://www.pollinator.org/" target="_blank">Pollinator Partnership</a>, <a href="http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdonations.htm" target="_blank">Bush Farms</a>, <a href="https://beelab.umn.edu/give" target="_blank">University of Minnesota Bee Lab</a> and locally the <a href="https://bchoneyproducers.ca/about-us/boone-hodgson-wilkinson-trust/" target="_blank">Boone Hodgson Wilkinson Trust</a> are worthy examples of this. <br />
A free gift I recommend to beekeepers of all ages is the wonderful book, "<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRlFBTTh2RVhzRWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive</a>". This book is written by Elena Garcia and Manuel Angel Rosado and beautifully illustrated by <a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/latest-work/" target="_blank">Juan Hernaz</a>. It is published by <a href="http://apolo.entomologica.es/index.php?d=colmena" target="_blank">Apolo</a> which is an organization dedicated to the preservation of pollinators and their habitat. You can follow Polli the honey bee and her friend Dipter the hover fly as they face the challenges of a disappearing green space. They are joined in their struggle by Bazumba the wild bee, Missus Bombus the bumblebee, Lepi the butterfly, her majesty the queen, Dorian the farmer and Ramon the beekeeper. Sit back with your children or grandchildren and enjoy the <a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/portfolio/the-travelling-beehive/" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive.</a> <br />
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The bees are snuggled in their hives waiting for Santa. Penny, from the Natural Beekeeping Trust of the United Kingdom says "Traditionally, Christian beekeepers have visited their colonies at midnight on Christmas Eve to tell the bees of the nativity. They also hoped to hear the special melodious humming that the bees were said to perform at this time, portending health and prosperity throughout the coming year. It was thought that this custom was predated by an earlier pre-Christian one when the return of the sun was by no means guaranteed!" If you're wondering what to recite to your bees on Christmas Eve here is a poem by Carol Ann Duffy.<br />
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<span style="color: red; font-size: x-large;"><u>The Bee Carol</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Silently on Christmas Eve,</span></span> <br />
the turn of midnight's key;<br />
all the garden locked in ice -<br />
a silver frieze -<br />
except the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Flightless now and shivering,<br />
around their Queen they cling;<br />
every bee a gift of heat;<br />
she will not freeze<br />
within the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Bring me for my Christmas gift<br />
a single golden jar;<br />
let me taste the sweetness there,<br />
but honey leave<br />
to feed the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Come with me on Christmas Eve<br />
to see the silent hive -<br />
trembling stars cloistered above -<br />
and then believe,<br />
bless the winter cluster of the bees.</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div> From Joan Riise and <a href="https://www.beeculture.com/catch-the-buzz-twas-the-night-beefore-christmas/" target="_blank">Bee Culture</a> "Twas the Night BEEfore CHRISTMAS".</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjd_Qp48isEnNJn5z7YvdgbCOFeF5l86qpaVtTXnrBPNggarNgJ2lBmaBhcZRlfRsJZVeTFmQEwi4LlsPAhVRQFrMntQejUvkO5EA_Sl-sO1JiV3bXSFkV5Ha2UqlcpiL2gQn4xByxpwzgT3VYKjFzC80n50JqNmVl8JoT3VF3Tnd5QWo2b7vthpptP=s1984" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1984" data-original-width="1490" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjd_Qp48isEnNJn5z7YvdgbCOFeF5l86qpaVtTXnrBPNggarNgJ2lBmaBhcZRlfRsJZVeTFmQEwi4LlsPAhVRQFrMntQejUvkO5EA_Sl-sO1JiV3bXSFkV5Ha2UqlcpiL2gQn4xByxpwzgT3VYKjFzC80n50JqNmVl8JoT3VF3Tnd5QWo2b7vthpptP=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> If you have any favorite bee projects that could use our financial assistance I would love to hear of them. I hope that you, your bees and your family have a wonderful Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year. Peace on earth and good will to all.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Merry Christmas!</span></span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-20655318167155357972020-09-21T16:03:00.001-07:002020-09-22T09:42:32.618-07:00Winter Preparation for Vancouver Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">It's September and time for Vancouver beekeepers to prepare for winter. Actually winter preparation is an ongoing task (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs103.pdf" target="_blank">Beekeeping Calendar for B.C.</a>). The main reasons our bees die over the winter is starvation, colonies suffering from parasitic mite syndrome, too few bees to heat the cluster and moisture. I complete my winter hive setup by the middle of October. Much of what
you do in preparation depends on your management style of beekeeping
(virtually nothing for the extreme natural beekeeper to intense
management for others). This is a revised post from last year and are just a few
suggestions based on my experience keeping bees in Vancouver.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Food</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To address the food issue you will need about 10 deep frames or 12+ medium frames of honey (65 lbs or 30 kgs) for an average sized colony to survive the winter. In our specific location (Strathcona) we still have a strong availability of nectar and pollen with many different plant species still in flower in our 4 acre garden and the surrounding area. Due to global warming plants in Vancouver can begin to flower 2-3 weeks earlier than in the past so our forage shortage begins in mid September. The problem occurs when the temperatures are still warm and dry enough from mid September through October for the colony to stay active. An active colony without a natural food source will consume much of the winter food supply. I'm fortunate this year to have a good supply of honey frames from my stronger hives that I can share with my weaker hives. This is why I prefer to wait til October to extract honey when I know the state of my winter supply. Some beekeepers have started feeding 2 to 1 syrup to their hives now because their honey reserves are low. This is a personal decision based on your style of beekeeping and your location. I usually like to reserve my feeding to emergency late winter feeding. An issue with syrup feeding this time of year is making sure most of the syrup the bees store gets capped. The uncapped syrup will become a source of winter moisture and mold. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> I've identified our main foraging shortage to occur from mid September to mid October so to address this issue I have separated the root balls of common Asian Asters for planting and transplanted the invasive Canadian Goldenrod (Aster). When mature the common Asian Aster becomes a 1.5 by 1.5 metre (4 by 4 foot) bush with hundreds of flowers and can bloom well into October. We have about a few hundred autumn flowering variety Asters in our 4 acre garden. Other late bloomers in our garden are Japanese Anemone, Mint, Autumn Joy Sedum, Scarlet Runner Bean, Jersulam Artichoke, and the invasive <a href="http://bcinvasives.ca/search/results/1708aa0cb72d0a47fbd5641916571b79/" target="_blank">Japanese Knotweed</a> (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs904.pdf" target="_blank">Nectar Plants of British Columbia</a>). A mixed diet is essential for the girls so some other late blooming plants are Caryopteris 'Dark Knight' (Blue Mist Spirea), Dahlia, Hardy Fushia, Seven Sons flower (Autumn Lilac), Impatiens omeianan, Camellia sinensis (Hardy tea bush) and Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Olive) (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a> and <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.de/p/plants_5661.html" target="_blank">Pollen Sources</a>). I will avoid the temptation to plant the invasive late blooming ivy and Himalayan Balsam. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWvv6cHFiS4tVMh2rj3aShfG-ftEHb3xQCQBqAzz14Mvfj-U_RjWhXQH4oKZUHDKMTvmWY-calIAP_kYUxdT0u10whVbi5Vvq_uoYRUyBJZyn5c1g3Ejsw08bEueLRFRTa_QOiBA3mfs/s1600/800px-Bee_and_Goldenrod_3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWvv6cHFiS4tVMh2rj3aShfG-ftEHb3xQCQBqAzz14Mvfj-U_RjWhXQH4oKZUHDKMTvmWY-calIAP_kYUxdT0u10whVbi5Vvq_uoYRUyBJZyn5c1g3Ejsw08bEueLRFRTa_QOiBA3mfs/s400/800px-Bee_and_Goldenrod_3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goldenrod</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJclLT9bcVIRh6FA22CLA8wketcWKvmBZejLgx4eqdxFBde7LjlXNdps2l_bVp8IJiy3j8Tnjz7VtTJN1_Sqo4H2qodgnRq1tP2CVClDjDE06GGEYBB04Ms8osh2vYUaTtqe1Md-8NaRA/s1600/asterrrrr_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJclLT9bcVIRh6FA22CLA8wketcWKvmBZejLgx4eqdxFBde7LjlXNdps2l_bVp8IJiy3j8Tnjz7VtTJN1_Sqo4H2qodgnRq1tP2CVClDjDE06GGEYBB04Ms8osh2vYUaTtqe1Md-8NaRA/s400/asterrrrr_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: normal;">It's good at this point to make sure you have your emergency winter
feeders ready if you plan to use them. A major cause of colony death is late winter starvation
(February - April) which can be solved by the use of an emergency
winter feeder (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Candy Board</a>). </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXy6mKJGh42FFWwzo5WdfdMqmgty22VlOHy2TQzCYHEV3uLWosYGFFKhcpPHhYMrwMXGSpKD9X2b63EW8xjG0AW-CQuMI-kmeUFl1nO-LhHVgkGD7PeaZX_yQtlQ1AraEcblbU2xBR8g/s1600/Candy+board_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXy6mKJGh42FFWwzo5WdfdMqmgty22VlOHy2TQzCYHEV3uLWosYGFFKhcpPHhYMrwMXGSpKD9X2b63EW8xjG0AW-CQuMI-kmeUFl1nO-LhHVgkGD7PeaZX_yQtlQ1AraEcblbU2xBR8g/s400/Candy+board_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Candyboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">They're
easy to build with 1x2's and quarter inch wire mesh and can be a colony
lifesaver. You can quickly check on the feeders through the late
winter to gauge the status of the food supply. Some beekeepers begin feeding in August. This
article "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2014/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a>"
describes the different methods of feeding at different temperatures.
The girls will take a 2 to 1 syrup down to about 12 celsius (53
fahrenheit) after which they find it too difficult to dehydrate for
storage. Some beekeepers will feed syrup baggies on top of the frames in colder temperatures
on the theory that heat from the cluster warms the syrup. I've not
tried this. In the Greater Vancouver area there are very big
differences in winter food requirements based on available foraging days
and available forage. Because of the effect of the North Shore
Mountains precipitation varies from 150+ inches (380 centimeters)
annually at the upper altitudes of the mountains to 30 inches (75
centimeters) along the U.S. border. This effect reduces precipitation
and increases hours of sunlight as you move southward. The graph below
divides Greater Vancouver into 9 zones with 9 being the upper altitudes
of the North Shore Mountains and 1 being the southern region along the
U.S. border (<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/clzry9yrghgpdyf/Greater%20Vancouver%20Rainfall.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">Greater Vancouver Precipitation</a>). As the crow flies this is a distance of less than 30 kilometers or 20 miles.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLsyFDu_7kb6gl4XoKts-CPzFbeWH-WlzGhgwljaFlAiK9eGW82V80Pcl0-beidzHBUxktuCJ-HL3aGnDGc4cVBbRwJoyw2zzsjjQKHRxEfodSj31DlMztYy0oWm7dw8s_t2LTidqHss/s1600/Temp.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLsyFDu_7kb6gl4XoKts-CPzFbeWH-WlzGhgwljaFlAiK9eGW82V80Pcl0-beidzHBUxktuCJ-HL3aGnDGc4cVBbRwJoyw2zzsjjQKHRxEfodSj31DlMztYy0oWm7dw8s_t2LTidqHss/s640/Temp.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Though
active at lower temperatures I have found high population foraging in
our apiary at 12 degrees celsius (53 fahrenheit) in March (Willow trees,
Forsythia, Flowering Cherry).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dM88-qj8MoZR7vmZo7SxPKHrZfkdtSpNXC7YYpOwrrZvhLa8xYlGmHj6QXxK3KcbBCqd0mQbphEG9O6HqEHOeP48QS2yYftIpHywCV06_djfJSD-nvtLMZGpmiDdnmkYrpIwO9zrssg/s1600/Daylight.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dM88-qj8MoZR7vmZo7SxPKHrZfkdtSpNXC7YYpOwrrZvhLa8xYlGmHj6QXxK3KcbBCqd0mQbphEG9O6HqEHOeP48QS2yYftIpHywCV06_djfJSD-nvtLMZGpmiDdnmkYrpIwO9zrssg/s640/Daylight.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This
means more flyable, foraging weather the further south you live and the
more active the colony with the additional needed sunshine warming the
hive and bees. I have observed the activity of the bees throughout the
lower mainland to be directly linked to the number of hours of sunlight
on the hives. Conclusion, for optimum colony health move to a southern
suburb like Tsawwassen, Ladner, White Rock or Abbotsford or maximize the
sun exposure on your hives (South to southeast exposure with minimal
shade). We moved our apiary because it was surrounded by fast growing
Black Locust, Willow and Cottonwood trees (Great pollen and nectar
sources). </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Also effecting hive performance is available
forage which can vary according to whether you are in a rural
agricultural or urban setting. The rural, agricultural areas in Surrey,
Delta and the Fraser Valley tend to have extreme honey and brood
production during crop blossoms but can suffer in the off season while
the urban areas tend to have a more consistent food source availability
throughout the foraging period (March - November) due to urban
landscaping and irrigation. We're fortunate to have 7 cultivated acres
in our 2 combined community gardens surrounded by fields of clover and
flowering trees. Unfortunately this year it has become a homeless camp. While it varies by region, because of the reasons
discussed above (weather and available forage) and the size of the
colony we need on average 10 deep or 12 medium frames of honey
(65 lbs or 30 kilograms) to over winter. The honey frames should be
positioned on both sides of the cluster in the bottom box and above the
cluster in the second super (super = hive box). If the cluster is in an
upper box it's recommended to switch the box to the bottom in
preparation for winter. In the spring you can reverse that process as
the girls will have worked their way up to upper part of the second box.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s1600/Capture_0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s400/Capture_0.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter cluster at the end of winter </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">For
a Kenyan Top Bar put the cluster at one end and the honey frames next
to the cluster. I've always run all deep supers in my Langstroth hives
because universal boxes and frames are easier to manage. I can add
honey frames from my third or fourth box to the brood boxes to over
winter. Many new beekeepers and some old are moving towards all medium
boxes because of the lighter weight. This makes sense as a deep box of
honey can weigh 80 lbs (36 kgs).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> All beekeepers have plus
and negative food accumulation months and generally April 1 to Oct 1 are
positive food accumulation months for us in the Strathcona area of
Vancouver. March and October can be neutral but are usually negative depending on
the available foraging days (weather). November through February are
winter cluster, negative food accumulation months.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandpests" target="_blank">Pest and Disease Control</a> </span></b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The biggest problem I see with new beekeepers is not planning ahead. In our beekeeping coop new beekeepers are always rushing around for needed hive boxes and frames, feeders, robber screens, quilts …. The best advice I could give new beekeepers is to plan 2 months ahead of where you are at. Pest and disease identification and control should be an ongoing process and if you are beginning now it may be too late. Evidence of chalk brood or nosema would indicate a weak colony (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandparasites" target="_blank">Honey Bee Diseases and Parasites</a>). Increased ventilation and removal of old comb can be done to combat the chalk brood and a <a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/nosema-ceranae/treatment-for-nosema/" target="_blank">pollen patty/fumagillin mixture</a> may help combat the nosema. Mite counts throughout the year and subsequent treatments should let you know whether you have a major issue. <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#varroamites" target="_blank">Mite treatments</a> like formic acid can continue into October as long as there is a day time high temp of 10c and oxalic acid is usually done in December when there is little to no brood present. A mistake made by many beekeepers is to treat in August and with a large, healthy colony assume everything is fine. Continue mite tests and treatment through September. A reduced screened entrance using eighth inch hardware cloth can be used to allow for needed ventilation during formic acid treatments while providing a more easily defended (against wasps) reduced entrance. The video below "Getting Your Hives Ready for Winter" is a recorded webinar with Kim Flottum (Bee expert and editor of Bee Culture magazine) which does a very good job of discussing winter preparation for bee colonies focusing on year around mite control. Controlling mites goes a long way to controlling virus transmission and overall colony health.</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wxk5at5Pqps?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Cold and Moisture</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="https://beeinformed.org/results/the-bee-informed-partnership-national-management-survey-2014-2015/" target="_blank">U.S. Bee Informed Survey</a> of wintering hives (the only large scale North American winter survival survey) showed that only 3 conditions determined winter survival success and they were adequate food, strong colonies (equalization or combining hives) and ventilation (moisture reduction).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The survey is extensive and includes the results for geographic region, all types of pest and disease management, feeding and winter preparation. <a href="https://bip2.beeinformed.org/survey" target="_blank">The Bee Informed Survey 2016 - 2017</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wrapping and insulation showed no benefit but I think that depends on where you live. If you live in cold northern climates like <a href="http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-deep-freeze-as-cold-as-uninhabited-planet-1.2479967" target="_blank">Winterpeg</a> either you wrap and insulate or you bring the girls inside. 40 below is 40 below.
Insulation is not necessary in Vancouver and can be counter productive by keeping the heat out and preventing the hive from warming up. Some local beekeepers wrap their hives with black roofing paper to prevent wind penetration and to help absorb the heat (<a href="http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=3873" target="_blank">Black objects absorb more heat</a>). The argument against this is that the girls take care of any wind penetration with use of propolis and do we want a warmer hive in the winter? Warmer means more active bees and more food consumption. For us wrapping in March may be a good option as we have lots of blossoms (Willow, forsythia, flowering cherry, bulbs ...) but marginal foraging temperatures. Wrapping would warm the hives and get the girls flying earlier in the day increasing their pollen and nectar intake and stimulate egg laying.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temperature difference on black and white surface</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wintering your bees is like real estate value in that the 3 most important
considerations are location, location and location. Location
dictates the methods you will use to protect your bees from the
elements. Windbreaks are essential in some areas where there are cold,
winter winds, especially for rooftop beekeepers. In winter Vancouver has a predominant, low pressure weather pattern with
winds from the southeast that bring with it fairly constant cool, wet weather. We have only a few snow falls per year and a few weeks of freezing temperatures. Therefore moisture, not cold is our biggest issue. The moisture is created when warm air created by the cluster of bees rises and contacts the cold inner cover creating cold condensation which drips onto the cluster. There are a lot of different methods to reduce moisture in the hive like tilting the hive forward by putting a 2x4 under the back of the hive to allow the moisture to run down the front of the hive and not on the cluster. Another option is an <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a> placed above the hive boxes to reduce cold condensation dripping on the winter cluster.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s1600/Stage+18_1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s640/Stage+18_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bee hive in winter without any form of moisture reduction</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s1600/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s400/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulated Moisture Quilt</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The heat produced by the cluster rises to contact the warmer insulated cover producing less condensation, which then drips onto the wood chips (not the bees) which are dried by the vent holes. They are easy to make out of scrap material and the link above provides detailed building instructions. During winter you must have an upper entrance in your Langstroth hive for ventilation and because dead bees can block the lower entrance. I presently have my upper entrance covered with eighth inch hardware cloth to keep out robber bees and wasps. I will remove this once those threats have passed. For moisture reduction in a Kenyan Top Bar Hive beekeepers can use an insulated moisture quilt, carpet over the top bars (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Bill Stagg's method</a>) or reflective insulation (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Sam Comfort's method</a>). Whether you leave your screened bottom board open or not (for increased ventilation) is debatable but if left open you must block the drafts from blowing under the hive. I put the mite test board in to block the winter winds but have friends who do not and successfully overwinter their bees. One moisture issue is that if you feed syrup to your bees in September and October some of the stored syrup may not be capped before the arrival of winter and it may ferment and mold and increase the moisture within the hive.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> In Vancouver we get at least 2 major storms a year of 80+ km winds (50 miles per hr). For this reason and the presence of skunks and racoons we use cinder blocks (ratchet straps are another option) on our hives to prevent the outer cover from blowing off or being removed and have positioned the hives to have a natural wind break (berm to the south). A wind break is particularly important for roof top beekeepers. Though not necessary some of us use pieces of plexiglass extending 4+ inches over our outer covers to provide additional weather protection and extend the life of our beekeeping equipment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Winter Hive</b></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjkDpqv1RYUYl98-Yi-VRh6WNHUmOD7_5qKQPapl_Iq0s5Ix5cBRDBQs9U9YZE-Jwyni60qRm5TnkpXHYK2EGQr-q4MqedvLevRDw4BSnpd07MSgeAH-uWKqibcEXq2f8OGDhoub567E/s1600/Winter+Hive+9_6.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="588" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjkDpqv1RYUYl98-Yi-VRh6WNHUmOD7_5qKQPapl_Iq0s5Ix5cBRDBQs9U9YZE-Jwyni60qRm5TnkpXHYK2EGQr-q4MqedvLevRDw4BSnpd07MSgeAH-uWKqibcEXq2f8OGDhoub567E/s640/Winter+Hive+9_6.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wasps" target="_blank">Wasps</a></span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">With the decrease in available forage robbing and
wasp attacks become a real concern starting in August so guard bees will become more
defensive and in the wild the colony may reduce the size of the entrance
with propolis and wax. The beekeeper can assist by reducing the
entrance to as small as 1.5 centimeters or a half inch to make it easier
to defend. In Vancouver wasps have been more aggressive, longer into the winter over the last few years. I received a swarm call last year in December. There had been a few hard frosts so out of interest (knowing it wasn't a swarm) I went to see a very active paper yellowjacket nest in an unheated crawl space. The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a>
and Bald Faced Hornets have been aggressive in our apiary for about 4 weeks, attempting to
enter hives and picking off stray bees at the entrance. I have reduced the bottom
entrance of my hives to between a half inch (1.5 cm) for weaker colonies to 3 inches for stronger colonies and screened off the upper entrance (eigth
inch hardware cloth). This blocks potential wasp intrusion and robbing
by other
bees
if you are feeding and still allows ventilation. The girls are better able
to defend the reduced single entrance. Wasps will stay active at cooler temperatures than your bees so when the girls are in cluster the wasps may enter the hive. I don't indiscriminately kill
wasps (I've identified 9 different types in our garden including
recently a parasitic wasp in my blue mason and leaf cutter bee cocoons) but have found them
increasingly aggressive towards our colonies for a longer period of time
in the fall (last year until December). I've found the pheremone lure variety to
be very effective on our greatest threat which are the common <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a> (does not attract Bald Faced Hornets). This lure trap can also be used in the spring to kill the emerging wasp queens. The <a href="http://www.rescue.com/product/why-trap-wasps-hornets-yellowjackets" target="_blank">Rescue</a> brand lure variety works well.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wasp trap</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can also make your own wasp trap. Here is a
study from the University of Athens showing the effectiveness of 3
different types of traps (<a href="http://www.bulletinofinsectology.org/pdfarticles/vol59-2006-135-145bacandritsos.pdf" target="_blank">Wasp Traps</a>). Maybe the easiest and most popular is the<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Wasp-Trap" target="_blank"> pop bottle trap</a>. We have a number of these out now with a 50/50 mixture of sugar and water and a capfull of vinegar poured in the entrance to keep the bees away. They have worked very well but you need to add a capfull of vinegar occasionally to dissuade the bees. Here is a study from the University of California
on the effectiveness of different baits (<a href="http://www.pestboard.ca.gov/howdoi/research/2009_yellowjacket.pdf" target="_blank">Baits for the Control of Yellowjackets</a>). I've not had much success with fish or meat baits later in the summer. These protein baits are successful earlier in the season when the wasps are feeding their brood. Wasps prefer a sugar and water bait at this time of year. For more information on wasps go to the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wasps" target="_blank">Wasp</a> section of our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeeping Library</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">If wasp attacks or robbing persists you can use a <a href="http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/files/147611.pdf" target="_blank">robber screen</a> which are easy to make.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNstafHgjxCFcQdC9PgYmIn0ygK_Vqwto1BPB7dgmycSsA-PKBzGQKltVqXSuPuBhk9gMccRS4JPWImRJ0lOdlpYCDw4H3Rb5GAhOJwaX-y4SBb8-YMHSh50neM8qvDH4O3lyCUi7969A/s1600/Capture1_1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNstafHgjxCFcQdC9PgYmIn0ygK_Vqwto1BPB7dgmycSsA-PKBzGQKltVqXSuPuBhk9gMccRS4JPWImRJ0lOdlpYCDw4H3Rb5GAhOJwaX-y4SBb8-YMHSh50neM8qvDH4O3lyCUi7969A/s640/Capture1_1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Equalization or Combining Colonies</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> It is recommended that new beekeepers have
2 hives rather than 1 because inevitably one will be stronger than the other. This allows you to strengthen the weaker hive with bees from the
stronger colony (<a href="http://countryrubes.com/template/images/Equalization_of_Bee_Colonies_Strength_update_9_09.pdf" target="_blank">Equalization of Bee Colonies Strength by Khalil Hamdan</a>) or to split the stronger hive if you lose the weaker colony. Though this can be done in the spring it can also be done in preparation for winter by adding 2-3 frames
of bees and brood as needed and available every 3-4 weeks starting in July. If you find you have a weak colony now you can combine the colony with a stronger one using the newspaper method (<a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/unitenewspaper.html" target="_blank">Uniting Honey Bees by David Cushman</a>). Although some will insist it imperative to kill the weaker queen others like the late, great <a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/" target="_blank">David Cushman</a> suggest that it is not necessary: "Many texts will tell you to kill the least desirable queen in one of the
two groups to be united, but I find it is often prudent to leave both
queens, so that the bees can make the choice, in most cases the younger
and fitter queen remains, but there may be subtle things in a queen's
make up that the bees are better able to make
choices about rather than the beekeeper (David Cushman)." Some beekeepers (not me) like to requeen as part of their winter preparation to make sure they have young, active queens the following spring. In October most beekeepers reduce their Langstroth hives to 2 deep supers and Kenyan Top Bar hives are reduced by moving your follower board or your false backs forward (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/cv4940rtyau4hivphwed" target="_blank">Winterizing your Top Bar Hive</a>). Queen excluders should be removed so the queen can move with the cluster as it moves upward.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4_QCSwURgMoCwyegfW5823aimL9TMrCOhl9MrmHqrUD0mk3k8afHwEnaYMJVH4vm1mdactT75Jtti08KyokMHjyZs4nlyDqqtYAisVsFXX3xlozi5H7ksheGiQZy2awCrCT-vB75fpI/s1600/newspaper_uniting.gif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4_QCSwURgMoCwyegfW5823aimL9TMrCOhl9MrmHqrUD0mk3k8afHwEnaYMJVH4vm1mdactT75Jtti08KyokMHjyZs4nlyDqqtYAisVsFXX3xlozi5H7ksheGiQZy2awCrCT-vB75fpI/s320/newspaper_uniting.gif" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The newspaper method of combining hives</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Mice</span></b> </span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Though still mild it's time to think of mice which like to winter
in the hives. There are a hundred different varieties of mouse proof
entrances from quarter inch screened mesh, drilled metal sheet to simple
nails minimizing the entrance. The mice can get through a fairly small area and will chew through wood. I use a simple wood entrance reducer with a nail reducing the entrance to just over the width of a bee. This allows for the removal of dead bees which the girls do as part of winter house cleaning. If you find the mice chewing on the entrance reducer you can wrap it in wire mesh. Here is an easy <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2013/11/04/making-mouse-guards-2013/" target="_blank">step by step guide to making a mouse guard from Brooksfield Farm</a> just south of us near Mt. Baker.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficult house cleaning</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s1600/mouse2_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s400/mouse2_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire mesh mouse proof entrance reducer</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For more information on wintering your colonies check out the recorded webinars by Kim Flottum, <a href="http://youtu.be/Wxk5at5Pqps" target="_blank">"Getting your hives ready for winter" </a> or
<a href="http://youtu.be/OdA1SnRKi90" target="_blank">"Putting the hive to bed for winter"</a>. You may also want to check out <a href="https://app.box.com/s/x1ewocs9t5tt94xltb21">The Biology and Management of
Colonies in Winter</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi">Winterization
Guide for Beekeeping</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/ajcqvuu8e6z3yutmxkzl">The
Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies</a> or <a href="https://app.box.com/s/csires9qmv2ylz0c21o5">Wrapping a Honey Bee Colony
with Tar Paper</a> from the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>. Good luck to you and your bees and stay dry. </span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.120737520.972495263821152 -158.27698750000002 77.59296293617885 -87.9644875tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-71992827063613087502020-04-12T16:35:00.000-07:002020-05-29T16:08:44.089-07:00The Effects of Vancouver City's Pesticide Spraying on Bees<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="405" src="//www.cbc.ca/i/caffeine/syndicate/?mediaId=1479804995976" width="720"></iframe></div>
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The Vancouver Park Board began it's annual pesticide spraying to remove the invasive Japanese beetle on April 3rd. "April 3 2020 – The Vancouver Park Board is set to begin larvicide treatment to eradicate Japanese beetle larvae in more than 30 parks, boulevards, medians, and other city land beginning April 6." This is the third year of treatment of an area that includes the West End, Downtown, Strathcona, Mount Pleasant, Fairview and Kitsilano neighbourhoods. The spraying has been effective in reducing the population of this potentially devastating intruder.<br />
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<iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1k0NiquyPGeWK55N7Uxgf8JkynJUoWUkA" width="640"></iframe></div>
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As stated the effects of the Japanese Beetle could be significant. "Japanese beetle larvae feed on the roots of lawns and other plants. Adults are heavy feeders, attacking the flowers, foliage, and fruit of more than 250 plant species, including roses, blueberries, and grapevines. The damage they cause is significant compared to other pests like European chafer beetles." (<a href="https://vancouver.ca/home-property-development/japanese-beetle.aspx?utm_campaign=japanese-beetle&utm_medium=Vanity&utm_source=japanese-beetle_Vanity#redirect" target="_blank">from City of Vancouver</a>) Here is a mug shot of the deviant offender.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRblsr6XyKZCjrDG2Bq_KMVOjzqbb9ohpvxT0kcDj6MJtbBkNiN8uu8TwmU-_74_9_xdDTKHBxhOz-EWEqmIGAFYcsKfaLZCxZaz_ma_DdXsPyQaNLXVPITHsTGbmg48ice-sSw4B0zDE/s1600/japanese-beetle-by-katja-schulz-news-landing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="640" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRblsr6XyKZCjrDG2Bq_KMVOjzqbb9ohpvxT0kcDj6MJtbBkNiN8uu8TwmU-_74_9_xdDTKHBxhOz-EWEqmIGAFYcsKfaLZCxZaz_ma_DdXsPyQaNLXVPITHsTGbmg48ice-sSw4B0zDE/s400/japanese-beetle-by-katja-schulz-news-landing.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Japanese Beetle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The pesticide they are using is the low impact, effective larvicide, Acelepryn which is produced by the agrichemical corporation Syngenta. The active ingredient is the insecticide chlorantraniliprole. The City claims there is "<b>no</b>" impact on anything other than the Japanese beetle ("<a href="https://vancouver.ca/news-calendar/treatment-for-invasive-japanese-beetle-set-to-begin-in-parks-2020.aspx" target="_blank">will not impact people, pets, mammals, birds, bees, butterflies or other animals</a>"). I heard this statement repeated over and over by representatives of the city to assure the public of safety. From the <a href="https://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/plant-health/acelepryn.pdf" target="_blank">provincial government</a>, "Why is Acelepryn being used for Japanese Beetle in B.C.? Japanese beetle is a new invasive pest found for the first time in B.C. in the False Creek area of Vancouver in 2017. This pest is a significant threat to agriculture in B.C. An eradication program is underway to address this threat. One component of the eradication program is a larvicide treatment in areas where the beetle is known to be present. Acelepryn was selected because it has a very favourable health and environmental profile, is also very effective against Japanese beetle larvae, and does not impact mammals, birds, bees, butterflies or other animals." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> As a long time beekeeper and farmer who has heard these claims of bee friendly insecticides far too often in the past only to be proven later to have significant negative impact I had to check it out. Most of the studies I read agreed that Chlorantraniliprole had little or no effect on bees or other critters. It was often stated that bees would not be interested in turf which it is usually applied to since there was usually no flowers and that if there were flowers in the turf that the grass should be mowed before to remove the flowers and irrigated soon after. I've been running the Vancouver seawall for many years and the part by David Lam Park since it was built after expo. During my runs I observed the grass portion of the park covered in small flowers which were being heavily foraged upon by bumble bees. I observed them spraying on the flowers and foraging bumble bees while I ran by. In addition to this bumble bees nest in the ground and it's likely their nesting areas are being sprayed. We have found over the years a problem with studies that observe the effects on bees is that they are usually not long term and do not observe the sublethal effects (which over time become lethal). Here are a few studies that shows a potential significant negative impact of chlorantraniliprole on bee populations.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Pollinators such as the bumblebee, Bombus terrestris, fulfil a crucial role in agriculture. In this context, tests were conducted with the insecticide chlorantraniliprole (Coragen®) as a model compound active on the ryanodine receptor of insects.</span></div>
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RESULTS:</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Chronic oral exposure via pollen induced lethargic behaviour in B. terrestris workers and their offspring (drones). Indeed, in nests exposed to 0.4 mg L(-1) , representing 1/100 of the concentration recommended for use in the field, workers and drones did not take their defensive position upon stimulation and they were less active than non-exposed insects. The different risk assessment tests used here demonstrated that contact and pollen exposure had no effect on bumblebee worker survival, whereas oral exposure via sugar water caused both acute (72 h LC50 = 13 mg L(-1) ) and chronic (7 week LC50 = 7 mg L(-1) ) toxicity. Severe sublethal effects on reproduction were recorded in nests orally exposed to pollen treated with chlorantraniliprole.</span></div>
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CONCLUSION:</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The present study identified an important physiological endpoint of sublethal effects on reproduction, as this is associated with lethargic behaviour after oral intake. As such, this is a factor that should now be incorporated into future risk assessments. Secondly, it confirmed that the assessment of sublethal effects on behaviour is needed for adequate risk assessment of 'potentially deleterious' compounds with a neurogenic target, as is also pointed out in the recent European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) guidelines (from "<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23564706" target="_blank">Dietary chlorantraniliprole suppresses reproduction in worker bumblebees</a>")." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Here is a study of the effects on honey bees (<a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-019-39193-3" target="_blank">Honey bees long-lasting locomotor deficits after exposure to the diamide chlorantraniliprole are accompanied by brain and muscular calcium channels alterations</a>).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">The point here is not to vilify Acelepryn as it is a much needed low impact </span>larvacide <span style="font-family: inherit;">(not no impact as stated by city sources) but to be clear and honest about the potential impact on other living things and to take the necessary steps to reduce that impact. All pesticides are toxic to some degree. The city field (Strathcona Park) adjacent to our apiary which at present houses both honey and blue mason bees is covered in clover and other assorted small flowers much of the growing year and has not as yet been cut similar to David Lam Park during the spraying of past years. In past years I have requested that the Parks Board cut the field adjacent to our apiary early in the morning to minimize the killing of the honey bees but as of yet they continue to cut in the middle of the day when the fields are covered in bees. As someone who has dealt with and worked for the federal, provincial and city governments for many years this is not a surprise. Maybe some day .....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> On a happier note my hives and those of friends have wintered well and are thriving with the warm, dry weather. The norm for us is 200 ml of precipitation for March and April and so far we have had 40 ml. Good foraging weather. Time for some early splits. Speaking of which as a result of Covid-19 a number of the flights from New Zealand and Australia (our primary source of spring bees) have been cancelled substantially reducing the number of packages available to replace winter losses and for spring pollination (<a href="https://mailchi.mp/f9b018f2e221/bc-bee-survey-april-2020?e=511ab232e7" target="_blank">BCHPA</a>). The BCHPA is doing a survey to identify sources of spring bees in B.C. There are plenty of available queens but a shortage of bulk bees. <a href="https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/CLKZ2T2" target="_blank">Here is the survey</a>.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> One positive aspect of the Covid-19 pandemic is substantially cleaner air worldwide with the reduction in industry and auto use as seen in gas prices (more supply than demand).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> This cleaner air should increase bee foraging efficiency as floral scent is masked by pollutants. "Results indicate that even <b>moderate air pollutant levels</b> (e.g., ozone mixing ratios greater than 60 parts per billion on a per volume basis, ppbv) <b>substantially degrade floral volatiles</b> and alter the chemical composition of released floral scents. As a result, insect <b>success rates of locating plumes of floral scents were reduced</b> and foraging times increased in polluted air masses due to considerable degradation and changes in the composition of floral scents. Results also indicate that plant-pollinator interactions could be sensitive to changes in floral scent composition, especially if insects are unable to adapt to the modified scentscape. The increase in foraging time could have severe cascading and pernicious impacts on the fitness of foraging insects by reducing the time devoted to other necessary tasks." (from a study "<a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1352231016305210?via%3Dihub" target="_blank">Air pollutants degrade floral scents and increase insect foraging times</a>"). This reduced air pollution accompanied by the warm, dry weather mentioned earlier has created prime foraging conditions (urban irrigation has provided needed water). A real fear is that countries will sacrifice environmental regulations to financially recover from the pandemic (<a href="https://www.oilandgas360.com/china-pushes-coal-power-to-fight-economic-slump-analysis/" target="_blank">China pushes coal power to fight economic slump</a>). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> The restriction of movement brought about by Covid-19 has meant difficulty moving bees or getting feed for bees (<a href="https://www.sixthtone.com/news/1005217/chinas-beekeepers-feel-the-sting-of-covid-19-epidemic" target="_blank">Chinese beekeeper kills himself after his colonies starve</a>). Hopefully this pandemic will be over soon. Stay safe.</span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.120737549.1169156 -123.443461 49.448542599999996 -122.79801400000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-45897822084563534742020-02-07T20:48:00.001-08:002021-05-03T20:59:06.891-07:00Honey Bee Nucs vs Packages<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLh9BQAOkPeBuitRXWWBuBRZxkCkUQVH296TAQU2QvimLKJlDN_0-Bw_jMMPJ0rIEiiIQSNqTaaYDDdDdSTklM-c6fvEQUCS6lVZqt5CcBhl33leRIz8uuQ5ZVZR4tp4nP9yxolEXsM4/s1600/Untitled+picture.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLh9BQAOkPeBuitRXWWBuBRZxkCkUQVH296TAQU2QvimLKJlDN_0-Bw_jMMPJ0rIEiiIQSNqTaaYDDdDdSTklM-c6fvEQUCS6lVZqt5CcBhl33leRIz8uuQ5ZVZR4tp4nP9yxolEXsM4/s1600/Untitled+picture.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /> Whether to buy a bee nuc or package depends like a lot of things on your location and needs. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>Nucs</u></b></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> A nuc (nucleus of a colony) consists of 4-5 frames of bees in a half sized Langstroth deep box which should include a laying queen, 2 frames of brood, 2 frames of honey and/or pollen and possibly a fifth frame of drawn comb. Local nucs for us are usually available starting in mid May. The reason for this is the queen requires temperatures 15-20 C. (60-70 F.) to mate and the formation of drone congregation zones. In some locations there is a supply of overwintered nucs which are made in August. The benefits of using a nucleus over a package are that you have a fully functioning colony with a laying queen and brood pattern you can see. You also have bees in all stages of development from egg to forager. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwYtZfS2EGrAJFxAem2diJJL0jqXEzVr4bKtEVWpKG-OK3_SScICIRb6Sv9Xo2Dr5_s8IANi6rDwGHU_PGqei0Mh_A9PSub7DcL2Ou35AuiR9WPP286JJWCJh4Lg9t4TmXDXfALzcptQ/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="576" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwYtZfS2EGrAJFxAem2diJJL0jqXEzVr4bKtEVWpKG-OK3_SScICIRb6Sv9Xo2Dr5_s8IANi6rDwGHU_PGqei0Mh_A9PSub7DcL2Ou35AuiR9WPP286JJWCJh4Lg9t4TmXDXfALzcptQ/w400-h299/image.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good brood pattern</td></tr></tbody></table><br /> Unless it is an overwintered nuc produced in the late summer the queen should be a new queen (born this spring). The queen is established (brood pattern visible) and the worker bees in a nucleus colony know their roles so there are nurse bees and foragers and the foundation is set (drawn comb) which will put them at least a few weeks ahead of an imported package. Because there are foragers and at least 2 frames of honey and pollen the nucleus will not require as much feeding. Also, with local nucs there is no climatic and forage stress. A negative aspect of nucs is they are available for us l.5-2 months later than packages and may come on old, dark colored frames and nuc boxes that may contain diseases. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXrB5IMEtbvS0FZ-umSwX-qsb9HptBMTC9dddVRQRKwDzv-4deZuJKS8PCblqmM9z3O06PKemxIfYV6VcUkfF3VWoAeJ32tV_3xTYpyYux9k34dqsyLt9WZXT7plUnXB9xALLRHjLAvo/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" data-original-height="204" data-original-width="300" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWXrB5IMEtbvS0FZ-umSwX-qsb9HptBMTC9dddVRQRKwDzv-4deZuJKS8PCblqmM9z3O06PKemxIfYV6VcUkfF3VWoAeJ32tV_3xTYpyYux9k34dqsyLt9WZXT7plUnXB9xALLRHjLAvo/w400-h272/image.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honey frame</td></tr></tbody></table><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-n2mtU49rDutVdjypfU9iUx-hyQDYv_ktY71lEAZMK-TO38aY6ksXV7gWOmfoClI-CKSU_5j1-XNixqrXu_mBR7EcyH9RXldDVwAXKfSH6uAHCHLX418WhbHzBE6braNShvs3ql71wRM/s910/Screenshot_2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="910" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-n2mtU49rDutVdjypfU9iUx-hyQDYv_ktY71lEAZMK-TO38aY6ksXV7gWOmfoClI-CKSU_5j1-XNixqrXu_mBR7EcyH9RXldDVwAXKfSH6uAHCHLX418WhbHzBE6braNShvs3ql71wRM/s16000/Screenshot_2.png" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><b style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Packages</u></b></div></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> A typical package consists of 2-3 pounds of bees, a can of syrup and a queen. A 3 lb package is optimum for most as a 2 lb will be underpopulated and a 4 lb may experience some die off with less accessibility to the syrup can. Normally the package bees are from production hives where they shake out bees into the package box til the required weight is reached. A mated queen is then placed in the package, protected in a queen cage. There is usually a container of syrup in the package to feed the bees for the few days of travel before they are transferred to a hive. The bees generally fair well for up to a week in a package. A package is usually put together a few days before sold and in the case of cold weather beekeepers in spring comes from a warmer location to the south. In our case because of government restrictions (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2013/11/no-us-bees-for-canada.html" target="_blank">No U.S. Bees to Canada</a>) this means thousands of miles south from New Zealand, Australia or Chile. Many backyard beekeepers will not have drawn frames to install their packages on to so a lot of energy and feeding will be required to produce the wax to draw out the frames. With a package close attention needs to spent on the survival and performance of the new queen.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCwncWisd9xwqXIaTgO6ssLhGbNXPjZ-2fH30qrcc4BDarWRR4MLp1ZbR8xdb8mNFkJqIBNVx5heO1YIYEsV1K191uY-Um59Un80VJVT3kxUj6ePZwz0ygF2sM1GCNSY_vhD5pTjNwiuc/s1600/bad-comb.jpg.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCwncWisd9xwqXIaTgO6ssLhGbNXPjZ-2fH30qrcc4BDarWRR4MLp1ZbR8xdb8mNFkJqIBNVx5heO1YIYEsV1K191uY-Um59Un80VJVT3kxUj6ePZwz0ygF2sM1GCNSY_vhD5pTjNwiuc/s1600/bad-comb.jpg.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption">A lot of energy and feeding is required to draw out the comb<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">The video below shows the process of creating a package of bees.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The main advantage of the package is that in cold weather areas they are available a few months before local nucs which allows beekeepers to take advantage of spring fruit blossoms and to lengthen the beekeeping season. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> Packages are a necessity in some areas because of the lack of nucs
available. They are usually cheaper, have less pests and diseases (no comb) and can be
installed into any type of hive. Unlike the nuc you don't have bees in all stages of development and if queen acceptance and performance goes well it will take 3 weeks for new brood to be born and several weeks for the population to reach that of a 5 frame nuc. Despite the added challenges most beekeepers have some success with packages. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihDRwzxXKrmcf8JLfaqp7FgCrslliPx8j_Mnfm27jQc0isvFRL7Anp5JlNA1Eb2z_CjnaNbdf_luZmeoNZVN6tQtp2NkN1B7QqldM7EnUK4hAVXtqGiy8bWpcAeAoLphT2W9qLqpozBHc/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="301" data-original-width="889" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihDRwzxXKrmcf8JLfaqp7FgCrslliPx8j_Mnfm27jQc0isvFRL7Anp5JlNA1Eb2z_CjnaNbdf_luZmeoNZVN6tQtp2NkN1B7QqldM7EnUK4hAVXtqGiy8bWpcAeAoLphT2W9qLqpozBHc/s16000/image.png" /></a></div><br /> In most areas the packages come from a
warmer climate so winter survival may be less likely as proven in a good,
small scale study carried out in New England by master beekeeper Erin
MacGregor-Forbes (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2arfqeyue2ktnodr5z6u" target="_blank">Comparison of colony strength and survivability between nucs and packages</a>).
This single study is certainly not conclusive evidence but suggests a problem with imported warm weather packages and a
need for more projects like this. Erin found a significant difference
in winter survival between the
southern package and nucleus (the nucs had twice the survival rate) but also found that a southern package with
a replaced local queen performed as well as the nucleus. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22JWIAI2v8YA_iJQzjLludeEIlJW34dj0_VOVjxSjPvXtND_UbpDCBi9JaDIBwgLXv56C3IxDXNSLYN_U9I9Vljsv22aykKzay6A7EHrT2PnoaA2RXLrpHV7hb7sFoFiDttDn5dLnU0s/s1600/Table2HiveStrength-xn5kvh.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22JWIAI2v8YA_iJQzjLludeEIlJW34dj0_VOVjxSjPvXtND_UbpDCBi9JaDIBwgLXv56C3IxDXNSLYN_U9I9Vljsv22aykKzay6A7EHrT2PnoaA2RXLrpHV7hb7sFoFiDttDn5dLnU0s/s1600/Table2HiveStrength-xn5kvh.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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In our situation bee packages come from a similar climate but the opposite hemisphere so they leave the southern hemisphere in late summer and arrive in Canada a few days later in early Spring where it can be freezing temperatures and snowing (I have experienced this). This obviously can be hard on the bees. Erin also found in her study that the packages outperformed the nucs in terms of honey
production which she attributed to a high rate of swarming by the
nucleus colonies. I don't know if she
took measures to prevent swarming but this has not been my experience . I've not had exceptional problems
with nucs swarming but have used swarm prevention methods like
checkerboarding and splits (Check out the "<a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#swarms" target="_blank">Swarms</a>" section in our Beekeepers' Library).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoG7zdjTzGoa1axXkRhE2RuK5XitGTd29SEBz0nLnxOca_7sg4xiKpyCeJ3rElA-h19VM0aCcoRAi5rNPEl0WJQmDKSDIHLiQFflT24KRjRk5skdb68dnoAnNrGGodNXrfzCiznHGd0Ek/s1600/Table1SurplusHoney-1lsa0rh.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoG7zdjTzGoa1axXkRhE2RuK5XitGTd29SEBz0nLnxOca_7sg4xiKpyCeJ3rElA-h19VM0aCcoRAi5rNPEl0WJQmDKSDIHLiQFflT24KRjRk5skdb68dnoAnNrGGodNXrfzCiznHGd0Ek/s1600/Table1SurplusHoney-1lsa0rh.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
<br /> The Prince William Regional Beekeepers Association in Virginia carried out a study which compared hives started from packages to those started from nucs which found a higher survival rate in nuc started hives, particularly evident in the second year (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a444FYMRWOUk_Q5OqdnWirdWM_dIrQrn/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Promoting Sustainable Beekeeping Practices Through Local Production of Nucs and Local Honeybee Queens</a>). One aspect of their study was the importation of Africanized bee genetics and small hive beetles. Importation of diseases and pests is perhaps the biggest challenge for beekeepers presently. <br /> A <a href="http://pwrbeekeepers.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/BANV-2011-Queen-Colony-Survival.pdf" target="_blank">survey</a> by the Beekeepers Assocition of North Virginia to determine if the source of queens effected colony winter survival found significant differences between southern imported queens (23%) and local queens (87%). While this is an extreme example I thinks it supports the theory of the benefits of local nucs over imported southern packages. </div><div> Biologist and author Mark Winston (<a href="http://books.google.ca/books?id=oDyWBAAAQBAJ&source=gbs_similarbooks" target="_blank">Bee Time: Lessons from the Hive</a>) suggests we need to wean ourselves off of this dependence on imported bees. In l985 he wrote "it is estimated that, at present colony densities, BC has the potential to produce 75,520 spring packages each year, and increased colony density and a higher level of commercial beekeeping could elevate this figure. Continued and increased package and nucleus production, coupled with increased wintering and queen production, could result in a high degree of Canadian self-sufficiency within the next few years (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/ucmicus2gf8guzzv7lu5d4gxjzs9hwho" target="_blank">l989 Study on package and nuc production in B.C.</a>)." That self-sufficiency was never realized. Large scale package and nuc production was never developed and with current 25-30% winter colony losses our dependence on imported packages will continue. The solution may be in the lowering of the winter loss rate through the development of a strong local, survivor stock with hygienic behavior and supporting the development of a large scale, local bee colony production industry. Government initiative, leadership and support may be essential for this to be realized.</div>
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In the video below Michael Palmer describes some of the difficulties associated with starting a bee hive from scratch using package bees including the lack of nurse bees for the new brood.<br />
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<div> <a href="https://bchoneyproducers.ca/bc-beebreeders/questions-for-nuc-suppliers/" target="_blank">Here are some questions you may want to ask your nuc supplier</a> and <a href="https://bchoneyproducers.ca/bc-beebreeders/questions-for-queen-producers/" target="_blank">some questions for queen purchasers</a> as suggested by the BC Honey Producers Association. For more information on nucs and packages check out "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#splits,nucsandpackages" target="_blank">Splits, Nucs and Packages</a>" in the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#basicbeekeeping" target="_blank">Basic Beekeeping</a> section of the <a href="http://goo.gl/doxovX" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>. Also check out the articles on overwintering nucs by Kirk Webster, Mel Disselkoen and others in the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of our library. In Vancouver Urban Bee, B.C. Beekeeping and Dancing Bee Apiary will be selling packages in April (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/bees-for-sale-in-vancouver.html" target="_blank">Vancouver Bees for Sale</a>). Good luck.</div><div> <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-63210764914073440242020-01-05T21:53:00.002-08:002020-01-11T21:55:37.815-08:00Feeding Bees in Winter<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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First let me start by saying that I don't usually feed my bees unless it is a late winter/early spring emergency feed. There are exceptions such as extreme drought but in most areas of the world where honey bees are kept the bees produce enough honey to overwinter. </div>
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Depending on the length of your winter (no natural food source or too cold to forage) a full colony of bees in our northern regions will consume between 27-40 kgs (60-90 lbs) of honey. In our apiary in Vancouver we have found that a average sized colony requires 10-12 deep frames (30 kg or 66 lbs) to overwinter in a normal year. Every location is different. Opening the hive in winter should be avoided but if necessary you can check if your hive is in need of winter feeding with a quick check on a nice day (not snowing or windy). This should take less than a minute and not require the lifting of frames. It's possible to avoid opening the hive by monitoring the weight (vs weight at beginning of winter) by simply lifting the back of the hive if you have experience or using a simple <a href="https://www.ebay.ca/itm/331418539867?chn=ps&dispItem=1" target="_blank">luggage scale</a>. Here is an example of a winter hive check.</div>
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In beekeeping it may vary yearly but months are either negative or positive in terms of food accumulation. In our temperate northern climate April to October are positive accumulation months, March and October are neutral depending on the weather and November through February are negative. </div>
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In some areas where there is a late summer dearth (lack of forage) beekeepers will feed a 2 to 1 sugar syrup mixture to ready their bees for winter. When the weather is still warm and there is not good forage, the bees are still very active and can consume a lot of their winter food supplies. This can occur for us in October. The recipes listed here are not as good as the natural food (honey) bees make for themselves but there are some situations when beekeepers will choose to supplement their bees' diet with a carbohydrate and/or protein feed. Sugar syrup is sometimes fed to bees in the spring and fall but below a certain temperature (approximately 12 C / 54 F) the bees are unable to dehydrate the liquid to store it. One issue to keep in mind when autumn feeding is the accumulation of stored uncapped syrup in frames which acts as a hive humidifier in winter. It's a good idea to minimize this. Some beekeepers maintain that the warmth from the cluster will be sufficient to heat a plastic baggy of syrup placed above the cluster at colder temperatures. I've not tried this. </div>
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When it is colder beekeepers can use a solid sugar feed in dry form as a sugar cake. In the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#feeding" target="_blank">Feeding</a>" section of our "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers Library</a>" you will find recipes for syrup, candy, pollen patties, grease patties, pollen substitute, essential oil mixtures, inverted sugar syrup and other bee food products. If you are using sugar make sure it is refined sucrose (table sugar) without impurities. Unrefined sugars have poisoned bees and brown sugar and molasses are toxic to bees (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/sl2jnjkw60o8czk76r85" target="_blank">Selecting sugars for feeding to Honey Bees</a>). While it was previously thought that high fructose corn syrup, which is used by many commercial beekeepers was chemically indistinguishable from honey a recent study (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/rkrzqem5f5ngcv2nz6hgh1jb1cvyhl9u" target="_blank">Honey elements induce detoxification and immunity</a>) found that honey contains important elements of pollen and propolis. These elements induce the detoxification and immunity genes and may help the bees cope with pesticides and pathogens. Feeding anything but their own honey is not a long term healthy alternative. </div>
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Some beekeepers believe that if you invert the sucrose (refined table sugar) by adding an acid (i.e vinegar) you will create a more natural food similar to honey and easier to digest. The inversion process changes the sucrose to fructose and glucose essentially the same as honey. However, there is no scientific evidence supporting this and bees actually perform the inversion in the digestive process in their honey stomach. Another issue you may wish to consider is whether your sugar contains pesticides. That will depend on your supplier. </div>
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When feeding in winter you want to apply the food so that the girls do not have to leave their winter cluster. You can invert your inner cover to leave space to place the sugar cake or patty on top of the frames or build a simple spacer or eke. I use 2 inch feeding spacers similar to those used by Anita at Beverley Bees (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Beverley Bees Candy Board</a>) and a simple no cook sugar and water mixture. Remember to make your spacer as small as possible as the ladies love to fill that space with comb and may do so rather quickly in the spring. You can feed the ladies dry sugar on paper (Michael Bush uses a <a href="http://bushfarms.com/beesfeeding.htm" target="_blank">dry granulated sugar</a> for cold weather feeding) on top of the frames wetted down with water (the hive humidity should keep it moist) or make a Sugar Cake. You can check quickly throughout the winter on nicer days (avoid windy,snowy days) and add as needed. Here is a demonstration by Philip from <a href="http://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mudsongs.org</a> adding a sugar cake on a winter day. </div>
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Here is a few simple recipes for those not as lazy as me:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fondant from Granulated Sugar</b></span></div>
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Fondant can be fed directly to the bees once cooled. They are a good
food source for mini-mating nucs because there is no drowning involved when
you have a small amount of bees. It is also common to use this recipe in small
quantities to plug the hole on a Queen Cage.
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Equipment:<br />
< 1 large saucepan<br />
< 1 Hand or electric mixer<br />
< 1 Cooking themometer<br />
< Shallow disposable setting pans (pizza)<br />
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Ingredients:</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><
4 parts (by volume) granulated white sugar</span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">< 1 parts (by volume) water</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">< Optional 1 teaspoon white vinegar</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><span style="font-size: normal;">Boil
water and slowly add the sugar until dissolved, stirring constantly. Continue heating until
the mixture reaches 238°F (114°C). Without mixing allow the solution to cool
until it is slightly warm to the touch (200F). Then begin to mix (in a mixer) and aerate the</span> <span style="font-size: normal;">solution.
As you do this the color should turn white and creamy with air bubbles. Pour into shallow dishes or </span>mold
and allow to cool. To feed it can be placed directly on top of the frames or in a feeding spacer. You can make the fondant thin enough to where it can
be worked into an empty frame of drawn comb.</span>
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This video is a step by step process of how to make their version of fondant by the Northwest New Jersey Beekeepers Association.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Bee Candy</b></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Candy is not used as much as in the past because it's harder to make and work with. However here is the recipe for those not deterred by hard work.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Equipment:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Heavy duty cooking pans</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Large spoon for stirring</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Measuring jug</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Cooking themometer</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Plastic containers</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Enameled or pyrex dishes</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Ingredients:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Refined granulated white sugar</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Water</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Cooking oil</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Newspapers</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Pour 500 ml (1 pint) of water in a heavy saucepan and add 2 kgs. granulated sugar. Heat to the boiling point, stirring constantly to prevent the sugar burning on the bottom. Continue to boil til the syrup reaches 117 degrees centigrade (242 fahrenheit). Prepare your enamel or pyrex glass dish by coating with vegetable oil, then lining with a sheet of newspaper. Also, soak an old towel in cold water and lay it on a waterproof heat proof work surface. Once the boiling syrup has reached 117 degrees centigrade place it on the wet towel to cool. Stir the mixture continuously as it thickens. Stir only so long that the mixture can still be poured into the lined dishes. Allow to set and cool and to remove (when cooled) pull gently on the edges of the paper liner. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"> Here are a few other versions of fondant recipes from <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2014/01/30/making-bee-candy-aka-fondant/" target="_blank">Brookfield Farm</a> and <a href="http://www.303beekeeper.com/2009/11/recipe-fondant-for-winter-feeding.html" target="_blank">Backyard Beehive</a> or you can purchase it from a retailer like <a href="http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Fondant" target="_blank">Brushy Mountain Bee Farm</a>. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Whether you use the above recipes or just dry granulated sugar you can check on your feed and add as needed whenever there is a break in the weather. Here is another video showing feeding at 40 fahrenheit (4 celsius). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Pollen patties (with sugar) provide both the carbohydrates from sugar and the proteins from pollen (or pollen substitute) and stimulate brood production. In Vancouver pollen patties can be added as early as February. There is a </span><span style="font-size: large;">theory to begin feeding pollen patties 8 weeks prior to the heavy pollen flow (for us fruit tree blossom). 3 weeks for the girls to be born, 3 weeks to become foragers and two weeks to build up the forager numbers. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Remember the presence of new pollen in the hive triggers the queen to produce brood which is why there is little to no brood production through the winter. Pollen is the source of protein and nutrients for bees. The level of body protein in bees varies seasonally between 21-67% depending on the availability and type of pollen available and the amount of energy expended foraging and brood raising. Different blossoms produce different quality pollen. For example dandelions and blueberries produce a fairly low nutritional pollen while almond pollen is fairly high in nutrition. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0Atua6FENc/TxSunjAH12I/AAAAAAAAA2s/j7W-2eLoj_8/s1600/dandelion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0Atua6FENc/TxSunjAH12I/AAAAAAAAA2s/j7W-2eLoj_8/s640/dandelion.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dandelion pollen, although attractive to bees lacks certain amino acids. Other types of pollen must be gathered in order to fully utilize the protein. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Bees store protein in their bodies in the form of vitellogenin which directly determines their life span and immunological strength to fight diseases and pests. When the body protein level in bees drops it may take several weeks to recover. Low body protein level means low brood and honey production. A wide variety of pollens are essential for optimum bee health as each pollen provides different essential nutrients. The report, "<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a>" is an qualitative analysis of the pollen from different plants and trees. This is why pollen patties or pollen substitute patties are not a healthy alternative to a natural variety of stored pollens but rather a diet supplement. Having said that research has shown that colonies receiving pollen supplements in early spring can produce 2-4 times the brood of a non supplemented colony. In addition the life span of worker bees is increased up to 15 days and consequently mid summer honey production is also increased. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The best protein source for supplemental feeding is of course pollen. Studies show that bees are attracted to pollen and consume significantly more when the patties contain pollen rather than pollen substitute. The graph below illustrates the benefits of pollen in supplemental feeding. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Having said that pollen can be a carrier of bee diseases and if the source is unknown should be irradiated before use in a pollen patty. Since most beekeepers don't want to irradiate use your own pollen collected from healthy hives. The nutritional value of pollen diminishes quickly when dried and stored so it is best to freeze your pollen immediately after collecting without drying. It is recommended that you use between 3-5% pollen in your pollen patty and that your overall protein level be about 25%. The best protein supplements or alternatives to pollen are yeast and soy flour. Brewer's yeast has a 48-56% protein content and is a good but expensive protein source to stimulate brood production. The more affordable soy flour (48-50% crude protein level) appears to be more of an adult bee food stimulating activity in the hive. Due to these different benefits a combination of these protein sources is recommended. Other additives like pollard (mixture of fine bran and flour- vitamin and essential oil source), vegetable oil (feed palatability), vitamins and minerals and sugar (carbohydrate and energy source) can be utilized. I read recently where a local beekeeper is using herring meal as a protein source and no his honey doesn't taste like fish. Human vitamin and mineral supplements are made for mammals not bees so are not recommended. Always use fresh ingredients as nutritional values decrease with time and old soy flour may even be toxic to bees. Sugar is an attractant in your feed and vegetable oil (like soy or cotton seed) can make it more palatable. The patty should be placed directly over the winter bee cluster which is normally in the middle of the brood box as the bees will not leave the cluster if it is cold. You can invert your inner cover to make room for the pollen patty. If you find there is not enough room between your hive frames and your inner cover you can make a simple hive eke (an extender frame or shallow box). When I made my insulated moisture quilt (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a>) I left space over the frames for supplemental feeding. Here are a few pollen or substitute pollen patty recipes. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Pollen Patty</span></b><b style="font-size: medium;"> </b><span style="font-size: large;">(3 different recipes)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(<a href="http://www.al.gov.bc.ca/apiculture/" target="_blank">Government of B.C. Apiculture Department</a>)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In supplement mixes, the percentage of pollen can be increased or decreased depending on availability.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#1 3 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#2 4 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 2 parts dry sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 2 parts lighter sugar syrup (2 sugar : 1 water)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#3 10 parts Torula Type S Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 10 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Note: use 2 parts dry mix to 3 parts syrup</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Substitute Pollen Patty </span></b><span style="font-size: large;">(3 different recipes)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#1 soybean flour only</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#2 4 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#3 10 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 6 parts casein</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 3 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part egg yolk powder</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In each case, add 4-5 parts of the dry mix to 2 parts heavy sugar syrup as indicated below in directions on preparation of patties.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Prepare patties as follows:
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mix dry ingredients thoroughly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mix a heavy syrup of 3 parts sugar to 1 part water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Slowly add 2 parts of syrup to 4-5 parts of dry mix (see dry mix formulas above), while kneading.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Leave overnight and knead again before flattening into a 1.5 cm cake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Cut into squares weighing about 0.5 kg (1 lb).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Place on wax paper and cover with another wax paper to prevent drying.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a video from <a href="http://dchoneybees.com/DC_Honeybees_Site/Home.html" target="_blank">DC Honeybees</a> showing how to make a substitute pollen patty using these ingredients: </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1/2 lb yeast;</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1/2 lb dried milk;</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1.5 lb soy flour;</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1/3 cup canola oil</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">juice of 1/2 lemon</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">a multi vitamin</span></div>
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Here are the folks from <a href="http://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mudsongs</a> installing a pollen patty.<br />
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I checked my hives a few days ago on a warm (8 C or 46 fahrenheit), sunny day and found lots of food remaining. Don't worry Spring is just around the corner. I saw my first cherry blossoms of the year yesterday. For more information on feeding bees go to the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#feeding" target="_blank">Feeding</a>" section of our "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>".<br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><b>"There is no other field of animal husbandry like beekeeping. It has the appeal to the scientist, the nature lover, and even (or especially) the philosopher. It is a chance to work with some of the most fascinating of God's creatures, to spend time and do work in the great outdoors, to challenge my abilities and continue to learn. My hope is that I never become so frail with old age that I cannot spend my days among the bees. It gives credence to the old saw that "the best things in life are free". I thank God daily for the opportunity and privilege to be a beekeeper."</b></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.1207375000000249.1169156 -123.44346100000001 49.448542599999996 -122.79801400000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-14542982110549501122019-12-06T08:50:00.000-08:002019-12-07T17:25:37.635-08:00Christmas Gifts for Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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At this time of year I'm especially appreciative that I have a roof over my head and food in my belly when so many in the world have neither. You don't need to be a Christian to celebrate the idea of Christmas
which should be a time of peace, love and selfless giving rather than
the modern concept of commercialized over consumption. Here are a few Christmas gift suggestions that we can give to beekeepers less fortunate than ourselves. <br />
In many countries beekeeping is a practical solution to reduce poverty and relieve suffering. Beekeeping requires little space, minimal cost and offers much needed income from the sales of honey, beeswax and pollen. In addition increased pollination from the introduction of these bees can substantially increase fruit and vegetable yields as well as pollinating native plants. For most beekeeping has become a supplement to the family income but for an increasing number it has become a major part of the village economy. This is one of reasons we created our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>, to provide free localized information to beekeepers worldwide. There are many good philanthropic beekeeping organizations worthy of your Christmas donations like <a href="https://charity.gofundme.com/o/en/campaign/bahamas-beekeepers-hurricane-relief-fund?utm_source=American+Bee+Journal&utm_campaign=0927c53566-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_04_19_08_03_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_8cdd94c05c-0927c53566-194248025&mc_cid=0927c53566&mc_eid=fcbf8fdeef" target="_blank">Bahama Beekeeper's Hurricane Relief</a>, "<a href="http://www.beesfordevelopment.org/" target="_blank">Bees for Development</a>", "<a href="https://www.oxfamgifts.com/gifts/honey-bees/" target="_blank">Oxfam's Gift of Bees</a>", "<a href="http://www.icimod.org/?q=1497" target="_blank">ICIMOD</a>" and "<a href="http://beesabroad.org.uk/" target="_blank">Bees Abroad</a>".<br />
One organization on my gift list is "<a href="http://www.heifer.org/gift-catalog/animals-nutrition/honeybees-donation.html?msource=kwg2396" target="_blank">Heifer International</a>" which has been operating throughout the world for over 70 years. For a mere $30 you can give the gift of honey bees.
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Although I grow much of my own food and support local, organic farmers an organization that I support at Christmas and throughout the year is <a href="http://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade</a>. Farmers in developing countries have traditionally been exploited by greedy food distribution corporations. A small portion of the price you pay for agricultural products from developing countries goes to the farmer. The concept of "Fair Trade" has empowered these farmers and provided them and their communities with a fair income which has allowed them a healthier, happier lifestyle. This documentary "Hope is Golden" is about the beekeeping cooperatives in Brazil’s arid Caatinga region that produce Fair Trade certified honey.<br />
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The Fair Trade organizations provide funding for the infrastructure required by farming cooperatives in developing countries. "<a href="http://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade International</a>" began 25 years ago and in 2012 the number of Fairtrade producing organizations grew by 16%. It works and it is growing. Each time you buy a Fair Trade product you are supporting the farmer and their family in the developing world rather than the multinational food distribution corporation. Buying "Fair Trade" products (honey, tea, chocolate, sugar, fruit, flowers and coffee), easily identifiable by the "Fair Trade" symbol is a good idea throughout the year.<br />
Another organization that I support is "<a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/" target="_blank">Schools for Chiapas</a>". Mexico is a prime example of how corporate agriculture exploits local farmers in developing worlds. The Zapatista organization "Schools for Chiapas" struggles to educate (<a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/advances/" target="_blank">Schools for Chiapas projects</a>) and empower local, native communities. One part of this is the promotion and education of the beekeeping tradition of Meliponiculture. Melipona beecheii are stingless bees native to Mexico, Central America, the Carribean, and many parts of South America (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2012/09/the-stingless-honey-bee-of-maya.html?utm_source=BP_recent&utm-medium=gadget&utm_campaign=bp_recent" target="_blank">Stingless Honey Bee of the Maya</a>) which were domesticated by the Mayan people long before the arrival of Europeans in the Americas. In much of Latin America stingless beekeeping has been replaced by the introduction of the Africanized European Honey Bee (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2012/09/killer-bees.html" target="_blank">Killer Bees</a>). The native stingless bees are the only honey bee native to the Americas and are essential for the pollination of some native plants and Schools for Chiapas is supporting a revival of this traditional beekeeping practice. You can support this initiative through the <a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/store/gifts-of-change/stingless/" target="_blank">American Stingless Bee Recuperation Gift of Change</a>. They are also working to preserve the native, non gm varities of corn. (<a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/gifts-of-change/" target="_blank">other Gifts of Change</a>).<br />
In this video a group of Mayan women are challenging social norms and preserving an endangered species (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#nativepollinators" target="_blank">The stingless bee, Melipona Beecheii</a>). Traditionally the prerogative of men in Mayan culture, beekeeping is providing this collective with a source of income and a reason to keep the species from going extinct.<br />
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Organizations that I do not support or legitimize are <a href="http://www.monsanto.com/improvingagriculture/pages/honey-bee-health.aspx" target="_blank">Monsanto's Honey Bee Health</a>, <a href="https://beecare.bayer.com/home" target="_blank">Bayer's Bee Care</a> and <a href="http://www.operationpollinator.com/" target="_blank">Syngenta's Operation Pollinator</a>. There are a number of factors contributing to the demise of all species of bees including imported diseases, pests and diminished available forage, global warming but a major cause is the overuse of agrichemicals. Monsanto, Bayer and Syngenta are in the process of monopolizing the world seed market with patented genetically modified seeds that contain or are designed to accept massive quantities of <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#pesticidesandbees" target="_blank">agrichemicals</a> that are dangerous to both bees and humans. Their bee programs are a public relations ploy to divert you from the true danger of their products.<br />
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A free gift I recommend to beekeepers of all ages is the wonderful book, "<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRlFBTTh2RVhzRWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive</a>". This book is written by Elena Garcia and Manuel Angel Rosado and beautifully illustrated by <a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/latest-work/" target="_blank">Juan Hernaz</a>. It is published by <a href="http://apolo.entomologica.es/index.php?d=colmena" target="_blank">Apolo</a> which is an organization dedicated to the preservation of pollinators and their habitat. You can follow Polli the honey bee and her friend Dipter the hover fly as they face the challenges of a disappearing green space. They are joined in their struggle by Bazumba the wild bee, Missus Bombus the bumblebee, Lepi the butterfly, her majesty the queen, Dorian the farmer and Ramon the beekeeper. Sit back with your children or grandchildren and enjoy the <a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/portfolio/the-travelling-beehive/" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive.</a> <br />
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The bees are snuggled in their hives waiting for Santa. Penny, from the Natural Beekeeping Trust of the United Kingdom says "Traditionally, Christian beekeepers have visited their colonies at midnight on Christmas Eve to tell the bees of the nativity. They also hoped to hear the special melodious humming that the bees were said to perform at this time, portending health and prosperity throughout the coming year. It was thought that this custom was predated by an earlier pre-Christian one when the return of the sun was by no means guaranteed!" If you're wondering what to recite to your bees on Christmas Eve here is a poem by Carol Ann Duffy.<br />
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<span style="color: red; font-size: x-large;"><u>The Bee Carol</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Silently on Christmas Eve,</span></span> <br />
the turn of midnight's key;<br />
all the garden locked in ice -<br />
a silver frieze -<br />
except the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Flightless now and shivering,<br />
around their Queen they cling;<br />
every bee a gift of heat;<br />
she will not freeze<br />
within the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Bring me for my Christmas gift<br />
a single golden jar;<br />
let me taste the sweetness there,<br />
but honey leave<br />
to feed the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Come with me on Christmas Eve<br />
to see the silent hive -<br />
trembling stars cloistered above -<br />
and then believe,<br />
bless the winter cluster of the bees.</div>
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If you have any favorite bee projects that could use our financial assistance I would love to hear of them. I hope that you, your bees and your family have a wonderful Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year. Peace on earth and good will to all.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Merry Christmas!</span></span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-36724208063608938822019-08-27T14:50:00.000-07:002019-08-31T18:38:35.279-07:00Winter Preparation for Vancouver Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">It's August and time for Vancouver beekeepers to prepare for winter. Actually winter preparation is an ongoing task (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs103.pdf" target="_blank">Beekeeping Calendar for B.C.</a>). The main reasons our bees die over the winter is starvation, colonies suffering from parasitic mite syndrome, too few bees to heat the cluster and moisture. I complete my winter hive setup by the middle of October. Much of what
you do in preparation depends on your management style of beekeeping
(virtually nothing for the extreme natural beekeeper to intense
management for others). This is a revised post from last year and are just a few
suggestions based on my experience keeping bees in Vancouver.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Food</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To address the food issue you will need at least 10 deep frames or 12+ medium frames of honey (65 lbs or 30 kgs) for an average sized colony to survive the winter. In our specific location (Strathcona) we still have a strong availability of nectar and pollen with many different plant species still in flower in our 4 acre garden and the surrounding area. Due to global warming plants in Vancouver can begin to flower 2-3 weeks earlier than in the past so our forage shortage begins in mid September. The problem occurs when the temperatures are still warm and dry enough from mid September through October for the colony to stay active. An active colony without a natural food source will consume much of the winter food supply. I'm fortunate this year to have a good supply of honey frames from my stronger hives that I can share with my weaker hives. This is why I prefer to wait til October to extract honey when I know the state of my winter supply. Some beekeepers have started feeding 2 to 1 syrup to their hives now because their honey reserves are low. This is a personal decision based on your style of beekeeping and your location. I usually like to reserve my feeding to emergency late winter feeding. An issue with syrup feeding this time of year is making sure most of the syrup the bees store gets capped. The uncapped syrup will become a source of winter moisture and mold. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> I've identified our main foraging shortage to occur from mid September to mid October so to address this issue I have separated the root balls of common Asian Asters for planting and transplanted the invasive Canadian Goldenrod (Aster). When mature the common Asian Aster becomes a 1.5 by 1.5 metre (4 by 4 foot) bush with hundreds of flowers and can bloom well into October. We have about a few hundred autumn flowering variety Asters in our 4 acre garden. Other late bloomers in our garden are Japanese Anemone, Mint, Autumn Joy Sedum, Scarlet Runner Bean, Jersulam Artichoke, and the invasive <a href="http://bcinvasives.ca/search/results/1708aa0cb72d0a47fbd5641916571b79/" target="_blank">Japanese Knotweed</a> (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs904.pdf" target="_blank">Nectar Plants of British Columbia</a>). A mixed diet is essential for the girls so some other late blooming plants are Caryopteris 'Dark Knight' (Blue Mist Spirea), Dahlia, Hardy Fushia, Seven Sons flower (Autumn Lilac), Impatiens omeianan, Camellia sinensis (Hardy tea bush) and Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Olive) (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a> and <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.de/p/plants_5661.html" target="_blank">Pollen Sources</a>). I will avoid the temptation to plant the invasive late blooming ivy and Himalayan Balsam. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goldenrod</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aster</td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: normal;">It's good at this point to make sure you have your emergency winter
feeders ready if you plan to use them. A major cause of colony death is late winter starvation
(February - April) which can be solved by the use of an emergency
winter feeder (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Candy Board</a>). </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Candyboard</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">They're
easy to build with 1x2's and quarter inch wire mesh and can be a colony
lifesaver. You can quickly check on the feeders through the late
winter to gauge the status of the food supply. Some beekeepers begin feeding in August. This
article "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2014/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a>"
describes the different methods of feeding at different temperatures.
The girls will take a 2 to 1 syrup down to about 12 celsius (53
fahrenheit) after which they find it too difficult to dehydrate for
storage. Some beekeepers will feed syrup baggies on top of the frames in colder temperatures
on the theory that heat from the cluster warms the syrup. I've not
tried this. In the Greater Vancouver area there are very big
differences in winter food requirements based on available foraging days
and available forage. Because of the effect of the North Shore
Mountains precipitation varies from 150+ inches (380 centimeters)
annually at the upper altitudes of the mountains to 30 inches (75
centimeters) along the U.S. border. This effect reduces precipitation
and increases hours of sunlight as you move southward. The graph below
divides Greater Vancouver into 9 zones with 9 being the upper altitudes
of the North Shore Mountains and 1 being the southern region along the
U.S. border (<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/clzry9yrghgpdyf/Greater%20Vancouver%20Rainfall.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">Greater Vancouver Precipitation</a>). As the crow flies this is a distance of less than 30 kilometers or 20 miles.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Though
active at lower temperatures I have found high population foraging in
our apiary at 12 degrees celsius (53 fahrenheit) in March (Willow trees,
Forsythia, Flowering Cherry).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">This
means more flyable, foraging weather the further south you live and the
more active the colony with the additional needed sunshine warming the
hive and bees. I have observed the activity of the bees throughout the
lower mainland to be directly linked to the number of hours of sunlight
on the hives. Conclusion, for optimum colony health move to a southern
suburb like Tsawwassen, Ladner, White Rock or Abbotsford or maximize the
sun exposure on your hives (South to southeast exposure with minimal
shade). We moved our apiary because it was surrounded by fast growing
Black Locust, Willow and Cottonwood trees (Great pollen and nectar
sources). </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Also effecting hive performance is available
forage which can vary according to whether you are in a rural
agricultural or urban setting. The rural, agricultural areas in Surrey,
Delta and the Fraser Valley tend to have extreme honey and brood
production during crop blossoms but can suffer in the off season while
the urban areas tend to have a more consistent food source availability
throughout the foraging period (March - November) due to urban
landscaping and irrigation. We're fortunate to have 7 cultivated acres
in our 2 combined community gardens surrounded by fields of clover and
flowering trees. While it varies by region, because of the reasons
discussed above (weather and available forage) and the size of the
colony we need on average a minimum of 10 deep or 12 medium frames of honey
(65 lbs or 30 kilograms) to over winter. The honey frames should be
positioned on both sides of the cluster in the bottom box and above the
cluster in the second super (super = hive box). If the cluster is in an
upper box it's recommended to switch the box to the bottom in
preparation for winter. In the spring you can reverse that process as
the girls will have worked their way up to upper part of the second box.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s1600/Capture_0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s400/Capture_0.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter cluster at the end of winter </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">For
a Kenyan Top Bar put the cluster at one end and the honey frames next
to the cluster. I've always run all deep supers in my Langstroth hives
because universal boxes and frames are easier to manage. I can add
honey frames from my third or fourth box to the brood boxes to over
winter. Many new beekeepers and some old are moving towards all medium
boxes because of the lighter weight. This makes sense as a deep box of
honey can weigh 80 lbs (36 kgs).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> All beekeepers have plus
and negative food accumulation months and generally April 1 to Oct 1 are
positive food accumulation months for us in the Strathcona area of
Vancouver. March and October can be neutral but are usually negative depending on
the available foraging days (weather). November through February are
winter cluster, negative food accumulation months.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pest and Disease Control </span></b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The biggest problem I see with new beekeepers is not planning ahead. In our beekeeping coop new beekeepers are always rushing around for needed hive boxes and frames, feeders, robber screens, quilts …. The best advice I could give new beekeepers is to plan 2 months ahead of where you are at. Pest and disease identification and control should be an ongoing process and if you are beginning now it may be too late. Evidence of chalk brood or nosema would indicate a weak colony (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandparasites" target="_blank">Honey Bee Diseases and Parasites</a>). Increased ventilation and removal of old comb can be done to combat the chalk brood and a <a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/nosema-ceranae/treatment-for-nosema/" target="_blank">pollen patty/fumagillin mixture</a> may help combat the nosema. Mite counts throughout the year and subsequent treatments should let you know whether you have a major issue. Mite treatments like formic acid can continue into October as long as there is a day time high temp of 10c and oxalic acid is usually done in December when there is little to no brood present. A mistake made by many beekeepers is to treat in August and with a large, healthy colony assume everything is fine. Continue mite tests and treatment through September. A reduced screened entrance using eighth inch hardware cloth can be used to allow for needed ventilation during formic acid treatments while providing a more easily defended (against wasps) reduced entrance. The video below "Getting Your Hives Ready for Winter" is a recorded webinar with Kim Flottum (Bee expert and editor of Bee Culture magazine) which does a very good job of discussing winter preparation for bee colonies focusing on year around mite control. Controlling mites goes a long way to controlling virus transmission and overall colony health.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Cold and Moisture</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="https://beeinformed.org/results/the-bee-informed-partnership-national-management-survey-2014-2015/" target="_blank">U.S. Bee Informed Survey</a> of wintering hives (the only large scale North American winter survival survey) showed that only 3 conditions determined winter survival success and they were adequate food, strong colonies (equalization or combining hives) and ventilation (moisture reduction).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The survey is extensive and includes the results for geographic region, all types of pest and disease management, feeding and winter preparation. <a href="https://bip2.beeinformed.org/survey" target="_blank">The Bee Informed Survey 2016 - 2017</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wrapping and insulation showed no benefit but I think that depends on where you live. If you live in cold northern climates like <a href="http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-deep-freeze-as-cold-as-uninhabited-planet-1.2479967" target="_blank">Winterpeg</a> either you wrap and insulate or you bring the girls inside. 40 below is 40 below.
Insulation is not necessary in Vancouver and can be counter productive by keeping the heat out and preventing the hive from warming up. Some local beekeepers wrap their hives with black roofing paper to prevent wind penetration and to help absorb the heat (<a href="http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=3873" target="_blank">Black objects absorb more heat</a>). The argument against this is that the girls take care of any wind penetration with use of propolis and do we want a warmer hive in the winter? Warmer means more active bees and more food consumption. For us wrapping in March may be a good option as we have lots of blossoms (Willow, forsythia, flowering cherry, bulbs ...) but marginal foraging temperatures. Wrapping would warm the hives and get the girls flying earlier in the day increasing their pollen and nectar intake and stimulate egg laying.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temperature difference on black and white surface</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wintering your bees is like real estate value in that the 3 most important
considerations are location, location and location. Location
dictates the methods you will use to protect your bees from the
elements. Windbreaks are essential in some areas where there are cold,
winter winds, especially for rooftop beekeepers. In winter Vancouver has a predominant, low pressure weather pattern with
winds from the southeast that bring with it fairly constant cool, wet weather. We have only a few snow falls per year and a few weeks of freezing temperatures. Therefore moisture, not cold is our biggest issue. The moisture is created when warm air created by the cluster of bees rises and contacts the cold inner cover creating cold condensation which drips onto the cluster. There are a lot of different methods to reduce moisture in the hive like tilting the hive forward by putting a 2x4 under the back of the hive to allow the moisture to run down the front of the hive and not on the cluster. Another option is an <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a> placed above the hive boxes to reduce cold condensation dripping on the winter cluster.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s1600/Stage+18_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s640/Stage+18_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bee hive in winter without any form of moisture reduction</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s1600/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s400/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulated Moisture Quilt</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The heat produced by the cluster rises to contact the warmer insulated cover producing less condensation, which then drips onto the wood chips (not the bees) which are dried by the vent holes. They are easy to make out of scrap material and the link above provides detailed building instructions. During winter you must have an upper entrance in your Langstroth hive for ventilation and because dead bees can block the lower entrance. I presently have my upper entrance covered with eighth inch hardware cloth to keep out robber bees and wasps. I will remove this once those threats have passed. For moisture reduction in a Kenyan Top Bar Hive beekeepers can use an insulated moisture quilt, carpet over the top bars (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Bill Stagg's method</a>) or reflective insulation (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Sam Comfort's method</a>). Whether you leave your screened bottom board open or not (for increased ventilation) is debatable but if left open you must block the drafts from blowing under the hive. I put the mite test board in to block the winter winds but have friends who do not and successfully overwinter their bees. One moisture issue is that if you feed syrup to your bees in September and October some of the stored syrup may not be capped before the arrival of winter and it may ferment and mold and increase the moisture within the hive.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> In Vancouver we get at least 2 major storms a year of 80+ km winds (50 miles per hr). For this reason and the presence of skunks and racoons we use cinder blocks on our hives to prevent the outer cover from blowing off or being removed and have positioned the hives to have a natural wind break (berm to the south). A wind break is particularly important for roof top beekeepers. Though not necessary some of us use pieces of plexiglass extending 4+ inches over our outer covers to provide additional weather protection and extend the life of our beekeeping equipment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Winter Hive</b></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjkDpqv1RYUYl98-Yi-VRh6WNHUmOD7_5qKQPapl_Iq0s5Ix5cBRDBQs9U9YZE-Jwyni60qRm5TnkpXHYK2EGQr-q4MqedvLevRDw4BSnpd07MSgeAH-uWKqibcEXq2f8OGDhoub567E/s1600/Winter+Hive+9_6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="588" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZjkDpqv1RYUYl98-Yi-VRh6WNHUmOD7_5qKQPapl_Iq0s5Ix5cBRDBQs9U9YZE-Jwyni60qRm5TnkpXHYK2EGQr-q4MqedvLevRDw4BSnpd07MSgeAH-uWKqibcEXq2f8OGDhoub567E/s640/Winter+Hive+9_6.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Wasps</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">With the decrease in available forage robbing and
wasp attacks become a real concern starting in August so guard bees will become more
defensive and in the wild the colony may reduce the size of the entrance
with propolis and wax. The beekeeper can assist by reducing the
entrance to as small as 1.5 centimeters or a half inch to make it easier
to defend. In Vancouver wasps have been more aggressive, longer into the winter over the last few years. I received a swarm call last year in December. There had been a few hard frosts so out of interest (knowing it wasn't a swarm) I went to see a very active paper yellowjacket nest in an unheated crawl space. The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a>
and Bald Faced Hornets have been aggressive in our apiary for about 4 weeks, attempting to
enter hives and picking off stray bees at the entrance. I have reduced the bottom
entrance of my hives to between a half inch (1.5 cm) for weaker colonies to 3 inches for stronger colonies and screened off the upper entrance (eigth
inch hardware cloth). This blocks potential wasp intrusion and robbing
by other
bees
if you are feeding and still allows ventilation. The girls are better able
to defend the reduced single entrance. Wasps will stay active at cooler temperatures than your bees so when the girls are in cluster the wasps may enter the hive. I don't indiscriminately kill
wasps (I've identified 9 different types in our garden including
recently a parasitic wasp in my blue mason and leaf cutter bee cocoons) but have found them
increasingly aggressive towards our colonies for a longer period of time
in the fall (last year until December). I've found the pheremone lure variety to
be very effective on our greatest threat which are the common <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a> (does not attract Bald Faced Hornets). This lure trap can also be used in the spring to kill the emerging wasp queens. The <a href="http://www.rescue.com/product/why-trap-wasps-hornets-yellowjackets" target="_blank">Rescue</a> brand lure variety works well.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wasp trap</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can also make your own wasp trap. Here is a
study from the University of Athens showing the effectiveness of 3
different types of traps (<a href="http://www.bulletinofinsectology.org/pdfarticles/vol59-2006-135-145bacandritsos.pdf" target="_blank">Wasp Traps</a>). Maybe the easiest and most popular is the<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Wasp-Trap" target="_blank"> pop bottle trap</a>. We have a number of these out now with a 50/50 mixture of sugar and water and a capfull of vinegar poured in the entrance to keep the bees away. They have worked very well but you need to add a capfull of vinegar occasionally to dissuade the bees. Here is a study from the University of California
on the effectiveness of different baits (<a href="http://www.pestboard.ca.gov/howdoi/research/2009_yellowjacket.pdf" target="_blank">Baits for the Control of Yellowjackets</a>). I've not had much success with fish or meat baits later in the summer. These protein baits are successful earlier in the season when the wasps are feeding their brood. Wasps prefer a sugar and water bait at this time of year. For more information on wasps go to the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wasps" target="_blank">Wasp</a> section of our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeeping Library</a>. </span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;">If wasp attacks or robbing persists you can use a <a href="http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/files/147611.pdf" target="_blank">robber screen</a> which are easy to make.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNstafHgjxCFcQdC9PgYmIn0ygK_Vqwto1BPB7dgmycSsA-PKBzGQKltVqXSuPuBhk9gMccRS4JPWImRJ0lOdlpYCDw4H3Rb5GAhOJwaX-y4SBb8-YMHSh50neM8qvDH4O3lyCUi7969A/s1600/Capture1_1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNstafHgjxCFcQdC9PgYmIn0ygK_Vqwto1BPB7dgmycSsA-PKBzGQKltVqXSuPuBhk9gMccRS4JPWImRJ0lOdlpYCDw4H3Rb5GAhOJwaX-y4SBb8-YMHSh50neM8qvDH4O3lyCUi7969A/s640/Capture1_1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Equalization or Combining Colonies</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> It is recommended that new beekeepers have
2 hives rather than 1 because inevitably one will be stronger than the other. This allows you to strengthen the weaker hive with bees from the
stronger colony (<a href="http://countryrubes.com/template/images/Equalization_of_Bee_Colonies_Strength_update_9_09.pdf" target="_blank">Equalization of Bee Colonies Strength by Khalil Hamdan</a>) or to split the stronger hive if you lose the weaker colony. Though this can be done in the spring it can also be done in preparation for winter by adding 2-3 frames
of bees and brood as needed and available every 3-4 weeks starting in July. If you find you have a weak colony now you can combine the colony with a stronger one using the newspaper method (<a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/unitenewspaper.html" target="_blank">Uniting Honey Bees by David Cushman</a>). Although some will insist it imperative to kill the weaker queen others like the late, great <a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/" target="_blank">David Cushman</a> suggest that it is not necessary: "Many texts will tell you to kill the least desirable queen in one of the
two groups to be united, but I find it is often prudent to leave both
queens, so that the bees can make the choice, in most cases the younger
and fitter queen remains, but there may be subtle things in a queen's
make up that the bees are better able to make
choices about rather than the beekeeper (David Cushman)." Some beekeepers (not me) like to requeen as part of their winter preparation to make sure they have young, active queens the following spring. In October most beekeepers reduce their Langstroth hives to 2 deep supers and Kenyan Top Bar hives are reduced by moving your follower board or your false backs forward (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/cv4940rtyau4hivphwed" target="_blank">Winterizing your Top Bar Hive</a>). Queen excluders should be removed so the queen can move with the cluster as it moves upward.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4_QCSwURgMoCwyegfW5823aimL9TMrCOhl9MrmHqrUD0mk3k8afHwEnaYMJVH4vm1mdactT75Jtti08KyokMHjyZs4nlyDqqtYAisVsFXX3xlozi5H7ksheGiQZy2awCrCT-vB75fpI/s1600/newspaper_uniting.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4_QCSwURgMoCwyegfW5823aimL9TMrCOhl9MrmHqrUD0mk3k8afHwEnaYMJVH4vm1mdactT75Jtti08KyokMHjyZs4nlyDqqtYAisVsFXX3xlozi5H7ksheGiQZy2awCrCT-vB75fpI/s320/newspaper_uniting.gif" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The newspaper method of combining hives</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Mice</span></b> </span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Though still mild it's time to think of mice which like to winter
in the hives. There are a hundred different varieties of mouse proof
entrances from quarter inch screened mesh, drilled metal sheet to simple
nails minimizing the entrance. The mice can get through a fairly small area and will chew through wood. I use a simple wood entrance reducer with a nail reducing the entrance to just over the width of a bee. This allows for the removal of dead bees which the girls do as part of winter house cleaning. If you find the mice chewing on the entrance reducer you can wrap it in wire mesh. Here is an easy <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2013/11/04/making-mouse-guards-2013/" target="_blank">step by step guide to making a mouse guard from Brooksfield Farm</a> just south of us near Mt. Baker.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-qaXr6ZXSWFgt37ObLZN7pGrBNvSOM-Etk1dLOHwAIdvh05p8t_epG8Tn1_HlITCn0Zu-ckbu7NZ7qCSXDcLI5iEE0t12om05_KfRdTZP9R-BgL3oTHrGLczOXMcG3xoMdnI7vf2pSc/s1600/mouse_6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-qaXr6ZXSWFgt37ObLZN7pGrBNvSOM-Etk1dLOHwAIdvh05p8t_epG8Tn1_HlITCn0Zu-ckbu7NZ7qCSXDcLI5iEE0t12om05_KfRdTZP9R-BgL3oTHrGLczOXMcG3xoMdnI7vf2pSc/s400/mouse_6.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficult house cleaning</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s1600/mouse2_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s400/mouse2_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire mesh mouse proof entrance reducer</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For more information on wintering your colonies check out the recorded webinars by Kim Flottum, <a href="http://youtu.be/Wxk5at5Pqps" target="_blank">"Getting your hives ready for winter" </a> or
<a href="http://youtu.be/OdA1SnRKi90" target="_blank">"Putting the hive to bed for winter"</a>. You may also want to check out <a href="https://app.box.com/s/x1ewocs9t5tt94xltb21">The Biology and Management of
Colonies in Winter</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi">Winterization
Guide for Beekeeping</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/ajcqvuu8e6z3yutmxkzl">The
Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies</a> or <a href="https://app.box.com/s/csires9qmv2ylz0c21o5">Wrapping a Honey Bee Colony
with Tar Paper</a> from the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>. Good luck to you and your bees and stay dry. </span><br />
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For more information and to register click on this <a href="https://mailchi.mp/952045f4b3d2/early-bird-deadline-august-31st?e=77ba6df6c8" target="_blank">link</a>.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.1207375000000249.1169156 -123.44346100000001 49.448542599999996 -122.79801400000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-51096151659180372112019-06-09T15:03:00.001-07:002023-05-09T22:13:53.945-07:00Bees Luv Dandelions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of our girls enjoying a Dandelion</td></tr>
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It was a beautiful, sunny, 20 degree celsius (70 fahrenheit) day in the garden and the bees were very active. At this time of year there are a wide assortment of blossoms available to be foraged upon but one of the favourites is an unplanted native, invasive plant, the Dandelion (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taraxacum" target="_blank">Taraxacum</a>) of the Asteraceae (Aster) Family. Many still think of the Dandelion as an unwanted weed but I hope that attitude is changing along with the need for a manicured lawn (<a href="https://www.foodnotlawns.com/" target="_blank">Grow food not lawns</a>). For us the Dandelion can flower throughout the growing period and if the seed heads are allowed to mature you are guaranteed a plentiful crop. <br />
My city garden is a 4 acre community garden close to downtown Vancouver and through the years I have grown to appreciate the invasive plants (weeds?). Being a very multicultural city it is so interesting to hear the perspective of different cultures on particular plants. Gout weed ( <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aegopodium_podagraria" target="_blank">Aegopodium podagraria</a>) for example is an extremely invasive plant, native to Eurasia which although enjoyed by the bees is difficult to remove and an irritant to most gardeners. One day two Asian Canadian women approached me and asked if they could harvest our gout weed. Attempting to hide my enthusiasm I asked them why. They told me of it's medicinal properties (primarily to treat stomach ailments- thus the name gout weed) and told me how they boil it and prepare a tea. On the same day I saw two older men harvesting dandelion leaves. They explained to me that in Italy they cherish the leaves and fry them in olive oil and garlic. <br />
The entire Dandelion plant is edible and the flower petals, along with other ingredients, are used to make dandelion wine. The leaves are best when they first appear or after the first frost (<a href="http://allrecipes.com/recipe/dandelion-greens-with-a-kick/" target="_blank">Recipes</a>). The ground, roasted roots can be used as a caffeine-free dandelion coffee. Dandelion was also traditionally used to make the traditional British soft drink dandelion and burdock, and is one of the ingredients of root beer. Also, Dandelions were once delicacies eaten by the Victorian gentry mostly in salads and sandwiches. Dandelion leaves contain abundant vitamins and minerals, especially vitamins A, C, K, niacin, riboflaven and are good sources of calcium, potassium, iron, manganese and beta carotene. Lecithin in the flower detoxifies the liver. As well Dandelions nourish other plants through their long (up to 3 ft) tap root which brings minerals and nutrients from a less contaminated part of the soil to the surface where it is utilized by the shorter roots of neighbouring plants. If you break the stem of a dandelion the white fluid that appears can be used to ease the pain of bee stings or sores. Wow! What an amazing plant.<br />
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Like us bees are healthier, live longer and perform better when feeding on a mixed diet. <br />
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"There is a growing body of evidence showing that poor nutrition can be a major player in affecting honey bee health. Eischen and Graham (2008) demonstrated that well-nourished honey bees are less susceptible to Nosema ceranae than poorly nourished bees. Naug (2009) tested the hypothesis that nutritional stress due to habitat loss has played a major role in causing CCD by analyzing the land use data in U.S. He showed a significant correlation between the number of colony loss from each state and the state’s ratio of open land relative to its developed land area." <a href="https://articles.extension.org/pages/28844/honey-bee-nutrition" target="_blank">Zachary Huang, Michigan State University</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.pollinator.org/bff/bff-ca" target="_blank">Bee Friendly Farming</a> practices are essential for a healthy bee population. Specifically, adopting a diverse pollinator beneficial planting farming practice. Different pollens have different nutritional value to bees and studies have shown a slight improvement in performance when feeding on Dandelion (<a href="http://www.nbba.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Nutritional_Value_of_Bee_Collected_Pollens.pdf" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a>). Interestingly for me two of the most nutritious pollens for bees, blackberry and cottonwood trees are aggressive volunteers in our garden. <br />
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For many in search of that manicured, green lawn a remedy for the removal of dandelions is to use a herbicide. I request that you put away the Roundup herbicide and let your dandelions grow or control them by removing the flowers before they go to seed. Before Roundup became the most used herbicide in the world it was a metal chelator or cleaner. <a href="https://www.pan-europe.info/sites/pan-europe.info/files/Glyphosate%20Dismissal_Technical%20Report.pdf" target="_blank">Numerous studies</a> have proven the toxic effects of Glyphosate and the World Health Organization has determined that Glyphosate is probably a <a href="https://www.nrdc.org/experts/jennifer-sass/glyphosate-herbicide-linked-cancer-iarc-world-health-organization-assessment" target="_blank">carginogen</a> . In a recent <a href="https://www.beeculture.com/catch-the-buzz-weed-killer-residues-found-in-98-percent-of-canadian-honey-samples/?utm_source=Catch+The+Buzz&utm_campaign=f421bd4569-Catch_The_Buzz_4_29_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0272f190ab-f421bd4569-256260329" target="_blank">study</a> Glyphosate was found present in 98% of Canadian honey samples. A recent U.S. court awarded 2 billion dollars in damages for the causation of cancer in Albert Pilliod (<a href="https://mailchi.mp/gmwatch.org/monsanto-hit-with-2-billion-damages-verdict-in-third-roundup-trial?e=24143f126d" target="_blank">Monsanto hit with $2 billion damages verdict in third Roudup trial</a>). There are also studies showing the negative effects on our bees (<a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZEKFXYEmvMzZuQcjA1ARCRjLUoHGAVpx" target="_blank">Effects of Glyphosate on honeybee apetite and naviation</a>). There is an alternative. You and I as food producers and consumers can grow and eat organically and if desired we can control the spread of dandelions by removing the flowers (hand, scythe, lawnmower or weedeater) before they go to seed (<a href="http://www.makewine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Dandelion-Wine.pdf" target="_blank">Dandelion Wine ?</a>) or by hiring some unemployed goats (<a href="https://www.rentagoat.com/" target="_blank">Rent a Goat</a>). Your bees will thank you.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-7023714892829830732019-03-07T08:40:00.001-08:002019-03-07T15:05:36.808-08:00Honey Bee Nucs vs Packages<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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There are few hard, set in concrete rules in beekeeping despite what some will tell you. Whether to buy a bee nuc or package depends like a lot of things on your location and your needs. <br />
A nuc (nucleus of a colony) consists of 4-5 frames of bees in a half sized Langstroth deep box which should include a laying queen, 2 frames of brood and 2 frames of honey and/or pollen. A typical package consists of 3 pounds of bees, and a queen. Normally the package bees are from production hives where they shake out bees into the package box. A mated queen is then placed in the package, protected in a queen cage. There is usually a container of syrup in the package to feed the bees for the days before they are transferred to a hive. A package is usually put together a few days before sold and in the case of cold weather beekeepers in spring comes from a warmer location to the south. In our case because of government restrictions (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2013/11/no-us-bees-for-canada.html" target="_blank">No U.S. Bees to Canada</a>) this means thousands of miles south from New Zealand, Australia or Chile. The video below shows the process of creating a package of bees.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TYcF8DeQOt0" width="640"></iframe>
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The main advantage of the package is that in cold weather areas they are available (March) a few months before local nucs (May) which allows beekeepers to take advantage of spring fruit blossoms. Fortunately for us in Vancouver a supply of "overwintered nucs" are available this year at the same time as the package, cheaper than the package (devalued dollar) and a better option. However, in British Columbia the supply does not meet the demand as over 3,000 packages of bees will be imported this March from New Zealand to help pollinate the Fraser Valley blueberries. In l985 biologist and author Mark Winston wrote "it is estimated that, at present colony densities, BC has the potential to produce 75,520 spring packages each year, and increased colony density and a higher level of commercial beekeeping could elevate this figure. Continued and increased package and nucleus production, coupled with increased wintering and queen production, could result in a high degree of Canadian self-sufficiency within the next few years (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/ucmicus2gf8guzzv7lu5d4gxjzs9hwho" target="_blank">l989 Study on package and nuc production in B.C.</a>)." That self-sufficiency was never realized. Large scale package and nuc production was never developed and with current 30% winter colony losses our dependence on imported packages will continue.<br />
Packages are a necessity in some areas because of the lack of nucs
available. They are usually cheaper, have less pests and diseases (no comb) and can be
installed into any type of hive. In most areas the packages come from a
warmer climate so winter survival is less likely as proven in a good,
small scale study carried out in New England by master beekeeper Erin
MacGregor-Forbes (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2arfqeyue2ktnodr5z6u" target="_blank">Comparison of colony strength and survivability between nucs and packages</a>).
This single study is certainly not conclusive evidence but suggests a problem with imported warm weather packages and a
need for more projects like this. Erin found a significant difference
in winter survival between the
southern package and nucleus (the nucs had twice the survival rate) but also found that a southern package with
a replaced local queen performed as well as the nucleus. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22JWIAI2v8YA_iJQzjLludeEIlJW34dj0_VOVjxSjPvXtND_UbpDCBi9JaDIBwgLXv56C3IxDXNSLYN_U9I9Vljsv22aykKzay6A7EHrT2PnoaA2RXLrpHV7hb7sFoFiDttDn5dLnU0s/s1600/Table2HiveStrength-xn5kvh.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh22JWIAI2v8YA_iJQzjLludeEIlJW34dj0_VOVjxSjPvXtND_UbpDCBi9JaDIBwgLXv56C3IxDXNSLYN_U9I9Vljsv22aykKzay6A7EHrT2PnoaA2RXLrpHV7hb7sFoFiDttDn5dLnU0s/s1600/Table2HiveStrength-xn5kvh.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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In our situation bee packages come from a similar climate but the opposite hemisphere so they leave New Zealand in late summer and arrive in Canada a few days later in early Spring where it can be freezing and snowing (I have experienced this). This obviously can be hard on the bees. Erin also found in her study that the packages outperformed the nucs in terms of honey
production which she attributed to a high rate of swarming by the
nucleus colonies. I don't know if she
took measures to prevent swarming but this has not been my experience . I've not had exceptional problems
with nucs swarming but have used swarm prevention methods like
checkerboarding and splits (Check out "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#swarms" target="_blank">Swarms</a>" section of our library).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoG7zdjTzGoa1axXkRhE2RuK5XitGTd29SEBz0nLnxOca_7sg4xiKpyCeJ3rElA-h19VM0aCcoRAi5rNPEl0WJQmDKSDIHLiQFflT24KRjRk5skdb68dnoAnNrGGodNXrfzCiznHGd0Ek/s1600/Table1SurplusHoney-1lsa0rh.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoG7zdjTzGoa1axXkRhE2RuK5XitGTd29SEBz0nLnxOca_7sg4xiKpyCeJ3rElA-h19VM0aCcoRAi5rNPEl0WJQmDKSDIHLiQFflT24KRjRk5skdb68dnoAnNrGGodNXrfzCiznHGd0Ek/s1600/Table1SurplusHoney-1lsa0rh.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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The benefits of using a nucleus over a package are that the queen is established, she is laying, you can see the brood pattern and there are usually at least 2 frames of brood.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good brood pattern</td></tr>
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The worker bees in a nucleus colony know their roles so there are nurse bees and foragers and the foundation is set (drawn comb) which will put them at least a few weeks ahead of an imported package. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bees with a sense of humour drawing out a frame</td></tr>
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Many backyard beekeepers will not have drawn frames to install their packages on to so a lot of energy and <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#feeding" target="_blank">feeding</a> will be required to produce the wax to draw out the frames. Because there are foragers and at least one frame of honey and pollen the nucleus may not require feeding (depending on spring weather conditions).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frame of honey</td></tr>
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A <a href="http://pwrbeekeepers.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/BANV-2011-Queen-Colony-Survival.pdf" target="_blank">survey</a> by the Beekeepers Assocition of North Virginia to determine if the source of queens effected colony winter survival found significant differences between southern packages (23%) and local nucs (87%). While this is an extreme example I thinks it supports the theory of the benefits of local nucs over imported southern packages. <br />
While the package may be a necessity for the commercial beekeeper, in my humble opinion if available the nuc from local, survivor stock is a better option even two months after the package particularly for the new beekeeper. With the nuc, because you have an established colony (Queen) with drawn comb and stores there is less likelihood of problems like absconding or queen failure that can occur with packages. Biologist and author Mark Winston (<a href="http://books.google.ca/books?id=oDyWBAAAQBAJ&source=gbs_similarbooks" target="_blank">Bee Time: Lessons from the Hive</a>) suggests we need to wean ourselves off of this dependence on imported bees. The solution lies in the lowering of the winter loss rate possibly through the development of a strong local, survivor stock with hygienic behavior. The increasing popularity of overwintering nucs may also be helpful.</div>
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In the video below Michael Palmer describes some of the difficulties associated with starting a bee hive from scratch using package bees including the lack of nurse bees for the new brood.<br />
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For more information on nucs and packages check out "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#splits,nucsandpackages" target="_blank">Splits, Nucs and Packages</a>" in the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#basicbeekeeping" target="_blank">Basic Beekeeping</a> section of the <a href="http://goo.gl/doxovX" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>. Be sure to check out the articles on overwintering nucs by Kirk Webster, Mel Disselkoen and others in the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of our library. In Vancouver Urban Bee, B.C. Beekeeping, West Coast Bee Supplies and Dancing Bee Apiary will be selling packages in March - April and B.C. Beekeeping will be selling local, overwintered nucs in May (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/bees-for-sale-in-vancouver.html" target="_blank">Vancouver Bees for Sale</a>). <br />
Vancouver has been experiencing unseasonably cold weather with temperatures below freezing. Hopefully spring will arrive soon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSyeLvENsBt82RG1gCGb38Ee0CHT9Es8D_tehZ-Z24oPCBoYWfvClXjSbbx4gjsZBQFibEOC2T2bNIEFfmySkdhG8gSoHShN5L0VPyS3JtRZSf-qNYUTAxmYUgurcXQ1x_50940MPBbgU/s1600/a+beehive+in+my+heart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="685" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSyeLvENsBt82RG1gCGb38Ee0CHT9Es8D_tehZ-Z24oPCBoYWfvClXjSbbx4gjsZBQFibEOC2T2bNIEFfmySkdhG8gSoHShN5L0VPyS3JtRZSf-qNYUTAxmYUgurcXQ1x_50940MPBbgU/s640/a+beehive+in+my+heart.jpg" width="456" /> </a></div>
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From the <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/ABC-Xyz-Bee-Culture-Encyclopedia/dp/0936028017" target="_blank">ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture</a> </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-19054258397190186422019-01-24T16:06:00.001-08:002020-01-05T21:50:57.323-08:00Feeding Bees in Winter<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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First let me say that I don't usually feed my bees unless it is a late winter/early spring emergency feed. There are exceptions such as extreme drought but in most areas of the world where honey bees are kept the bees produce enough honey to overwinter. </div>
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Depending on the length of your winter (no natural food source or too cold to forage) a full colony of bees in our northern regions will consume between 27-40 kgs (60-90 lbs) of honey. In our apiary in Vancouver we have found that a average sized colony requires 10-12 deep frames (30 kg or 66 lbs - every area is different) to overwinter in a normal year. Every location is different. Opening the hive in winter should be avoided but if necessary you can check if your hive is in need of winter feeding with a quick check on a nice day (not snowing or windy). It's possible to avoid opening the hive by monitoring the weight (vs weight at beginning of winter) by simply lifting the back of the hive if you have experience or using a simple <a href="https://www.ebay.ca/itm/331418539867?chn=ps&dispItem=1" target="_blank">luggage scale</a>. Here is an example of a winter hive check.</div>
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In beekeeping it may vary yearly but months are either negative or positive in terms of food accumulation. In our temperate northern climate April to October are positive accumulation months, March and October are neutral depending on the weather and November through February are negative. </div>
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In some areas where there is a late summer dearth (lack of forage) beekeepers will feed a 2 to 1 sugar syrup mixture to ready their bees for winter. When the weather is still warm and there is not good forage, the bees are still very active and can consume a lot of their winter food supplies. This can occur for us in October. The recipes listed here are not as good as the natural food (honey) bees make for themselves but there are some situations when beekeepers will choose to supplement their bees' diet with a carbohydrate and/or protein feed. Sugar syrup is sometimes fed to bees in the spring and fall but below a certain temperature (approximately 12 C / 54 F) the bees are unable to dehydrate the liquid to store it. One issue to keep in mind when autumn feeding is the accumulation of stored uncapped syrup in frames which acts as a hive humidifier in winter. It's a good idea to minimize this. Some beekeepers maintain that the warmth from the cluster will be sufficient to heat a plastic baggy of syrup placed above the cluster at colder temperatures. I've not tried this. </div>
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When it is colder beekeepers can use a solid sugar feed in dry form as a sugar cake. In the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#feeding" target="_blank">Feeding</a>" section of our "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers Library</a>" you will find recipes for syrup, candy, pollen patties, grease patties, pollen substitute, essential oil mixtures, inverted sugar syrup and other bee food products. If you are using sugar make sure it is refined sucrose (table sugar) without impurities. Unrefined sugars have poisoned bees and brown sugar and molasses are toxic to bees (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/sl2jnjkw60o8czk76r85" target="_blank">Selecting sugars for feeding to Honey Bees</a>). While it was previously thought that high fructose corn syrup, which is used by many commercial beekeepers was chemically indistinguishable from honey a recent study (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/rkrzqem5f5ngcv2nz6hgh1jb1cvyhl9u" target="_blank">Honey elements induce detoxification and immunity</a>) found that honey contains important elements of pollen and propolis. These elements induce the detoxification and immunity genes and may help the bees cope with pesticides and pathogens. Feeding anything but their own honey is not a long term healthy alternative. </div>
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Some beekeepers believe that if you invert the sucrose (refined table sugar) by adding an acid (i.e vinegar) you will create a more natural food similar to honey and easier to digest. The inversion process changes the sucrose to fructose and glucose essentially the same as honey. However, there is no scientific evidence supporting this and bees actually perform the inversion in the digestive process in their honey stomach. Another issue you may wish to consider is whether your sugar contains pesticides. That will depend on your supplier. </div>
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When feeding in winter you want to apply the food so that the girls do not have to leave their winter cluster. You can invert your inner cover to leave space to place the sugar cake or patty on top of the frames or build a simple spacer or eke. I use 2 inch feeding spacers similar to those used by Anita at Beverley Bees (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Beverley Bees Candy Board</a>) and a simple no cook sugar and water mixture. Remember to make your spacer as small as possible as the ladies love to fill that space with comb and may do so rather quickly in the spring. You can feed the ladies dry sugar on paper (Michael Bush uses a <a href="http://bushfarms.com/beesfeeding.htm" target="_blank">dry granulated sugar</a> for cold weather feeding) on top of the frames wetted down with water (the hive humidity should keep it moist) or make a Sugar Cake. You can check quickly throughout the winter on nicer days (avoid windy,snowy days) and add as needed. Here is a demonstration by Philip from <a href="http://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mudsongs.org</a> adding a sugar cake on a winter day. </div>
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Here is a few simple recipes for those not as lazy as me:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fondant from Granulated Sugar</b></span></div>
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Fondant can be fed directly to the bees once cooled. They are a good
food source for mini-mating nucs because there is no drowning involved when
you have a small amount of bees. It is also common to use this recipe in small
quantities to plug the hole on a Queen Cage.
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Equipment:<br />
< 1 large saucepan<br />
< 1 Hand or electric mixer<br />
< 1 Cooking themometer<br />
< Shallow disposable setting pans (pizza)<br />
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Ingredients:</div>
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4 parts (by volume) granulated white sugar</span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">< 1 parts (by volume) water</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">< Optional 1 teaspoon white vinegar</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><span style="font-size: normal;">Boil
water and slowly add the sugar until dissolved, stirring constantly. Continue heating until
the mixture reaches 238°F (114°C). Without mixing allow the solution to cool
until it is slightly warm to the touch (200F). Then begin to mix (in a mixer) and aerate the</span> <span style="font-size: normal;">solution.
As you do this the color should turn white and creamy with air bubbles. Pour into shallow dishes or </span>mold
and allow to cool. To feed it can be placed directly on top of the frames or in a feeding spacer. You can make the fondant thin enough to where it can
be worked into an empty frame of drawn comb.</span>
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This video is a step by step process of how to make their version of fondant by the Northwest New Jersey Beekeepers Association.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Bee Candy</b></span>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Candy is not used as much as in the past because it's harder to make and work with. However here is the recipe for those not deterred by hard work.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Equipment:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Heavy duty cooking pans</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Large spoon for stirring</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Measuring jug</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Cooking themometer</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Plastic containers</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Enameled or pyrex dishes</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Ingredients:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Refined granulated white sugar</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Water</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Cooking oil</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">< Newspapers</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;">Pour 500 ml (1 pint) of water in a heavy saucepan and add 2 kgs. granulated sugar. Heat to the boiling point, stirring constantly to prevent the sugar burning on the bottom. Continue to boil til the syrup reaches 117 degrees centigrade (242 fahrenheit). Prepare your enamel or pyrex glass dish by coating with vegetable oil, then lining with a sheet of newspaper. Also, soak an old towel in cold water and lay it on a waterproof heat proof work surface. Once the boiling syrup has reached 117 degrees centigrade place it on the wet towel to cool. Stir the mixture continuously as it thickens. Stir only so long that the mixture can still be poured into the lined dishes. Allow to set and cool and to remove (when cooled) pull gently on the edges of the paper liner. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: normal;"> Here are a few other versions of fondant recipes from <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2014/01/30/making-bee-candy-aka-fondant/" target="_blank">Brookfield Farm</a> and <a href="http://www.303beekeeper.com/2009/11/recipe-fondant-for-winter-feeding.html" target="_blank">Backyard Beehive</a> or you can purchase it from a retailer like <a href="http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Fondant" target="_blank">Brushy Mountain Bee Farm</a>. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Whether you use the above recipes or just dry granulated sugar you can check on your feed and add as needed whenever there is a break in the weather. Here is another video showing feeding at 40 fahrenheit (4 celsius). </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Pollen patties (with sugar) provide both the carbohydrates from sugar and the proteins from pollen (or pollen substitute) and stimulate brood production. In Vancouver pollen patties can be added as early as February. There is a </span><span style="font-size: large;">theory to begin feeding pollen patties 8 weeks prior to the heavy pollen flow (for us fruit tree blossom). 3 weeks for the girls to be born, 3 weeks to become foragers and two weeks to build up the forager numbers. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Remember the presence of new pollen in the hive triggers the queen to produce brood which is why there is little to no brood production through the winter. Pollen is the source of protein and nutrients for bees. The level of body protein in bees varies seasonally between 21-67% depending on the availability and type of pollen available and the amount of energy expended foraging and brood raising. Different blossoms produce different quality pollen. For example dandelions and blueberries produce a fairly low nutritional pollen while almond pollen is fairly high in nutrition. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0Atua6FENc/TxSunjAH12I/AAAAAAAAA2s/j7W-2eLoj_8/s1600/dandelion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0Atua6FENc/TxSunjAH12I/AAAAAAAAA2s/j7W-2eLoj_8/s640/dandelion.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dandelion pollen, although attractive to bees lacks certain amino acids. Other types of pollen must be gathered in order to fully utilize the protein. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Bees store protein in their bodies in the form of vitellogenin which directly determines their life span and immunological strength to fight diseases and pests. When the body protein level in bees drops it may take several weeks to recover. Low body protein level means low brood and honey production. A wide variety of pollens are essential for optimum bee health as each pollen provides different essential nutrients. The report, "<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a>" is an qualitative analysis of the pollen from different plants and trees. This is why pollen patties or pollen substitute patties are not a healthy alternative to a natural variety of stored pollens but rather a diet supplement. Having said that research has shown that colonies receiving pollen supplements in early spring can produce 2-4 times the brood of a non supplemented colony. In addition the life span of worker bees is increased up to 15 days and consequently mid summer honey production is also increased. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The best protein source for supplemental feeding is of course pollen. Studies show that bees are attracted to pollen and consume significantly more when the patties contain pollen rather than pollen substitute. The graph below illustrates the benefits of pollen in supplemental feeding. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMDoZb2eVg9zlnKiBl6tJFEfxreIlDfehUYrMF3INuD4oB_LDo_3ZsmwHOpEmaBLI6SEO4UhA9HjDhYMxAqQwdlWj9i6EVQFDHBBzqlgDzydyMrJO1gLV9HQvVeFH2cNqtw9ob7DqGCg/s1600/Capturewwww.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMDoZb2eVg9zlnKiBl6tJFEfxreIlDfehUYrMF3INuD4oB_LDo_3ZsmwHOpEmaBLI6SEO4UhA9HjDhYMxAqQwdlWj9i6EVQFDHBBzqlgDzydyMrJO1gLV9HQvVeFH2cNqtw9ob7DqGCg/s1600/Capturewwww.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Having said that pollen can be a carrier of bee diseases and if the source is unknown should be irradiated before use in a pollen patty. Since most beekeepers don't want to irradiate use your own pollen collected from healthy hives. The nutritional value of pollen diminishes quickly when dried and stored so it is best to freeze your pollen immediately after collecting without drying. It is recommended that you use between 3-5% pollen in your pollen patty and that your overall protein level be about 25%. The best protein supplements or alternatives to pollen are yeast and soy flour. Brewer's yeast has a 48-56% protein content and is a good but expensive protein source to stimulate brood production. The more affordable soy flour (48-50% crude protein level) appears to be more of an adult bee food stimulating activity in the hive. Due to these different benefits a combination of these protein sources is recommended. Other additives like pollard (mixture of fine bran and flour- vitamin and essential oil source), vegetable oil (feed palatability), vitamins and minerals and sugar (carbohydrate and energy source) can be utilized. I read recently where a local beekeeper is using herring meal as a protein source and no his honey doesn't taste like fish. Human vitamin and mineral supplements are made for mammals not bees so are not recommended. Always use fresh ingredients as nutritional values decrease with time and old soy flour may even be toxic to bees. Sugar is an attractant in your feed and vegetable oil (like soy or cotton seed) can make it more palatable. The patty should be placed directly over the winter bee cluster which is normally in the middle of the brood box as the bees will not leave the cluster if it is cold. You can invert your inner cover to make room for the pollen patty. If you find there is not enough room between your hive frames and your inner cover you can make a simple hive eke (an extender frame or shallow box). When I made my insulated moisture quilt (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a>) I left space over the frames for supplemental feeding. Here are a few pollen or substitute pollen patty recipes. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Pollen Patty</span></b><b style="font-size: medium;"> </b><span style="font-size: large;">(3 different recipes)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(<a href="http://www.al.gov.bc.ca/apiculture/" target="_blank">Government of B.C. Apiculture Department</a>)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In supplement mixes, the percentage of pollen can be increased or decreased depending on availability.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#1 3 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#2 4 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 2 parts dry sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 2 parts lighter sugar syrup (2 sugar : 1 water)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#3 10 parts Torula Type S Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 10 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part pollen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Note: use 2 parts dry mix to 3 parts syrup</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Substitute Pollen Patty </span></b><span style="font-size: large;">(3 different recipes)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#1 soybean flour only</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#2 4 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#3 10 parts soybean flour</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 6 parts casein</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 3 parts Brewer’s Yeast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> 1 part egg yolk powder</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In each case, add 4-5 parts of the dry mix to 2 parts heavy sugar syrup as indicated below in directions on preparation of patties.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Prepare patties as follows:
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mix dry ingredients thoroughly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Mix a heavy syrup of 3 parts sugar to 1 part water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Slowly add 2 parts of syrup to 4-5 parts of dry mix (see dry mix formulas above), while kneading.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Leave overnight and knead again before flattening into a 1.5 cm cake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Cut into squares weighing about 0.5 kg (1 lb).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Place on wax paper and cover with another wax paper to prevent drying.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a video from <a href="http://dchoneybees.com/DC_Honeybees_Site/Home.html" target="_blank">DC Honeybees</a> showing how to make a substitute pollen patty using these ingredients: </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1/2 lb yeast;</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1/2 lb dried milk;</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1.5 lb soy flour;</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">1/3 cup canola oil</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">juice of 1/2 lemon</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">a multi vitamin</span></div>
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Here are the folks from <a href="http://mudsongs.org/" target="_blank">Mudsongs</a> installing a pollen patty.<br />
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I checked my hives a few days ago on a warm (8 C or 46 fahrenheit), sunny day and found lots of food remaining. Don't worry Spring is just around the corner. I saw my first cherry blossoms of the year yesterday. For more information on feeding bees go to the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#feeding" target="_blank">Feeding</a>" section of our "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>".<br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: large;"><b>"There is no other field of animal husbandry like beekeeping. It has the appeal to the scientist, the nature lover, and even (or especially) the philosopher. It is a chance to work with some of the most fascinating of God's creatures, to spend time and do work in the great outdoors, to challenge my abilities and continue to learn. My hope is that I never become so frail with old age that I cannot spend my days among the bees. It gives credence to the old saw that "the best things in life are free". I thank God daily for the opportunity and privilege to be a beekeeper."</b></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-11737226651780704602018-12-17T19:29:00.000-08:002018-12-17T19:31:09.235-08:00Christmas Gifts for Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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At this time of year I'm especially appreciative that I have a roof over my head and food in my belly when so many in the world have neither. You don't need to be a Christian to celebrate the idea of Christmas
which should be a time of peace, love and selfless giving rather than
the modern concept of commercialized over consumption. Here are a few Christmas gift suggestions that we can give to beekeepers less fortunate than ourselves. <br />
In many countries beekeeping is a practical solution to reduce poverty and relieve suffering. Beekeeping requires little space, minimal cost and offers much needed income from the sales of honey, beeswax and pollen. In addition increased pollination from the introduction of these bees can substantially increase fruit and vegetable yields as well as pollinating native plants. For most beekeeping has become a supplement to the family income but for an increasing number it has become a major part of the village economy. This is one of reasons we created our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>, to provide free localized information to beekeepers worldwide. There are many good philanthropic beekeeping organizations worthy of your Christmas donations like "<a href="http://www.beesfordevelopment.org/" target="_blank">Bees for Development</a>", "<a href="http://www.icimod.org/?q=1497" target="_blank">ICIMOD</a>", "<a href="http://www.globalhand.org/en/browse/requests/all/request/7115" target="_blank">Global Hand</a>" and "<a href="http://beesabroad.org.uk/" target="_blank">Bees Abroad</a>".<br />
One organization on my gift list is "<a href="http://www.heifer.org/gift-catalog/animals-nutrition/honeybees-donation.html?msource=kwg2396" target="_blank">Heifer International</a>" which has been operating throughout the world for over 70 years. For a mere $30 you can give the gift of honey bees.
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Although I grow much of my own food and support local, organic farmers an organization that I support at Christmas and throughout the year is <a href="http://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade</a>. Farmers in developing countries have traditionally been exploited by greedy food distribution corporations. A small portion of the price you pay for agricultural products from developing countries goes to the farmer. The concept of "Fair Trade" has empowered these farmers and provided them and their communities with a fair income which has allowed them a healthier, happier lifestyle. This documentary "Hope is Golden" is about the beekeeping cooperatives in Brazil’s arid Caatinga region that produce Fair Trade certified honey.<br />
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The Fair Trade organizations provide funding for the infrastructure required by farming cooperatives in developing countries. "<a href="http://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade International</a>" began 25 years ago and in 2012 the number of Fairtrade producing organizations grew by 16%. It works and it is growing. Each time you buy a Fair Trade product you are supporting the farmer and their family in the developing world rather than the multinational food distribution corporation. Buying "Fair Trade" products (honey, tea, chocolate, sugar, fruit, flowers and coffee), easily identifiable by the "Fair Trade" symbol is a good idea throughout the year.<br />
Another organization that I support is "<a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/" target="_blank">Schools for Chiapas</a>". Mexico is a prime example of how corporate agriculture exploits local farmers in developing worlds. The Zapatista organization "Schools for Chiapas" struggles to educate (<a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/advances/" target="_blank">Schools for Chiapas projects</a>) and empower local, native communities. One part of this is the promotion and education of the beekeeping tradition of Meliponiculture. Melipona beecheii are stingless bees native to Mexico, Central America, the Carribean, and many parts of South America (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2012/09/the-stingless-honey-bee-of-maya.html?utm_source=BP_recent&utm-medium=gadget&utm_campaign=bp_recent" target="_blank">Stingless Honey Bee of the Maya</a>) which were domesticated by the Mayan people long before the arrival of Europeans in the Americas. In much of Latin America stingless beekeeping has been replaced by the introduction of the Africanized European Honey Bee (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2012/09/killer-bees.html" target="_blank">Killer Bees</a>). The native stingless bees are the only honey bee native to the Americas and are essential for the pollination of some native plants and Schools for Chiapas is supporting a revival of this traditional beekeeping practice. You can support this initiative through the <a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/store/gifts-of-change/stingless/" target="_blank">American Stingless Bee Recuperation Gift of Change</a>. They are also working to preserve the native, non gm varities of corn. (<a href="http://www.schoolsforchiapas.org/gifts-of-change/" target="_blank">other Gifts of Change</a>).<br />
In this video a group of Mayan women are challenging social norms and preserving an endangered species (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#nativepollinators" target="_blank">The stingless bee, Melipona Beecheii</a>). Traditionally the prerogative of men in Mayan culture, beekeeping is providing this collective with a source of income and a reason to keep the species from going extinct.<br />
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Organizations that I do not support or legitimize are <a href="http://www.monsanto.com/improvingagriculture/pages/honey-bee-health.aspx" target="_blank">Monsanto's Honey Bee Health</a>, <a href="https://beecare.bayer.com/home" target="_blank">Bayer's Bee Care</a> and <a href="http://www.operationpollinator.com/" target="_blank">Syngenta's Operation Pollinator</a>. There are a number of factors contributing to the demise of all species of bees including imported diseases, pests and diminished available forage but a major cause is the overuse of agrichemicals. Monsanto, Bayer and Syngenta are in the process of monopolizing the world seed market with patented genetically modified seeds that contain or are designed to accept massive quantities of <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#pesticidesandbees" target="_blank">agrichemicals</a> that are dangerous to both bees and humans. Their bee programs are a public relations ploy to divert you from the true danger of their products.<br />
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A free gift I recommend to beekeepers of all ages is the wonderful book, "<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRlFBTTh2RVhzRWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive</a>". This book is written by Elena Garcia and Manuel Angel Rosado and beautifully illustrated by <a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/latest-work/" target="_blank">Juan Hernaz</a>. It is published by <a href="http://apolo.entomologica.es/index.php?d=colmena" target="_blank">Apolo</a> which is an organization dedicated to the preservation of pollinators and their habitat. You can follow Polli the honey bee and her friend Dipter the hover fly as they face the challenges of a disappearing green space. They are joined in their struggle by Bazumba the wild bee, Missus Bombus the bumblebee, Lepi the butterfly, her majesty the queen, Dorian the farmer and Ramon the beekeeper. Sit back with your children or grandchildren and enjoy the <a href="http://www.juanhernaz.com/en/portfolio/the-travelling-beehive/" target="_blank">The Travelling Beehive.</a> <br />
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The bees are snuggled in their hives waiting for Santa. Penny, from the Natural Beekeeping Trust of the United Kingdom says "Traditionally, Christian beekeepers have visited their colonies at midnight on Christmas Eve to tell the bees of the nativity. They also hoped to hear the special melodious humming that the bees were said to perform at this time, portending health and prosperity throughout the coming year. It was thought that this custom was predated by an earlier pre-Christian one when the return of the sun was by no means guaranteed!" If you're wondering what to recite to your bees on Christmas Eve here is a poem by Carol Ann Duffy.<br />
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<span style="color: red; font-size: x-large;"><u>The Bee Carol</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Silently on Christmas Eve,</span></span> <br />
the turn of midnight's key;<br />
all the garden locked in ice -<br />
a silver frieze -<br />
except the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Flightless now and shivering,<br />
around their Queen they cling;<br />
every bee a gift of heat;<br />
she will not freeze<br />
within the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Bring me for my Christmas gift<br />
a single golden jar;<br />
let me taste the sweetness there,<br />
but honey leave<br />
to feed the winter cluster of the bees.<br />
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Come with me on Christmas Eve<br />
to see the silent hive -<br />
trembling stars cloistered above -<br />
and then believe,<br />
bless the winter cluster of the bees.</div>
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I hope that you, your bees and your family have a wonderful Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year. Peace on earth and good will to all.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Merry Christmas!</span></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-32641135261066876112018-09-09T17:25:00.000-07:002018-11-18T07:54:37.541-08:00Winter Preparation for Vancouver Beekeepers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">It's September and it's time for Vancouver beekeepers to prepare for winter. Actually winter preparation is an ongoing task (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs103.pdf" target="_blank">Beekeeping Calendar for B.C.</a>). The main reasons our bees die over the winter is starvation, colonies suffering from parasitic mite syndrome, too few bees to heat the cluster and moisture. I complete my winter hive setup by the middle of October. Much of what
you do in preparation depends on your management style of beekeeping
(virtually nothing for the extreme natural beekeeper to intense
management for others). This is a revised post from last year and are just a few
suggestions based on my experience keeping bees in Vancouver.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Food</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">To address the food issue you will need at least 10 deep frames or 12+ medium frames of honey (65 lbs or 30 kgs) for an average sized colony to survive the winter. In our specific location (Strathcona) we still have a strong availability of nectar and pollen with many different plant species still in flower in our 4 acre garden and the surrounding area. Due to global warming plants in Vancouver can begin to flower 2-3 weeks earlier than in the past so our forage shortage begins in mid September. The problem occurs when the temperatures are still warm and dry enough from mid September through October for the colony to stay active. An active colony without a natural food source will consume much of the winter food supply. I'm fortunate this year to have a good supply of honey frames from my stronger hives that I can share with my weaker hives. This is why I prefer to wait til October to extract honey when I know the state of my winter supply. Some beekeepers have started feeding 2 to 1 syrup to their hives now because their honey reserves are low. This is a personal decision based on your style of beekeeping and your location. I usually like to reserve my feeding to emergency late winter feeding. An issue with syrup feeding this time of year is making sure most of the syrup the bees store gets capped. The uncapped syrup will become a source of winter moisture and mold. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> I've identified our main foraging shortage to occur from mid September to mid October so to address this issue I have separated the root balls of common Asian Asters for planting and transplanted the invasive Canadian Goldenrod (Aster). When mature the common Asian Aster becomes a 1.5 by 1.5 metre (4 by 4 foot) bush with hundreds of flowers and can bloom well into October. We have about a few hundred autumn flowering variety Asters in our 4 acre garden. Other late bloomers in our garden are Japanese Anemone, Mint, Autumn Joy Sedum, Scarlet Runner Bean, Jersulam Artichoke, and the invasive <a href="http://bcinvasives.ca/search/results/1708aa0cb72d0a47fbd5641916571b79/" target="_blank">Japanese Knotweed</a> (<a href="http://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/farming-natural-resources-and-industry/agriculture-and-seafood/animal-and-crops/animal-production/bee-assets/api_fs904.pdf" target="_blank">Nectar Plants of British Columbia</a>). A mixed diet is essential for the girls so some other late blooming plants are Caryopteris 'Dark Knight' (Blue Mist Spirea), Dahlia, Hardy Fushia, Seven Sons flower (Autumn Lilac), Impatiens omeianan, Camellia sinensis (Hardy tea bush) and Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Olive) (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/2sl1a6ecu7u31y5q86op" target="_blank">Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens</a> and <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.de/p/plants_5661.html" target="_blank">Pollen Sources</a>). I will avoid the temptation to plant the invasive late blooming ivy and Himalayan Balsam. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJclLT9bcVIRh6FA22CLA8wketcWKvmBZejLgx4eqdxFBde7LjlXNdps2l_bVp8IJiy3j8Tnjz7VtTJN1_Sqo4H2qodgnRq1tP2CVClDjDE06GGEYBB04Ms8osh2vYUaTtqe1Md-8NaRA/s1600/asterrrrr_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJclLT9bcVIRh6FA22CLA8wketcWKvmBZejLgx4eqdxFBde7LjlXNdps2l_bVp8IJiy3j8Tnjz7VtTJN1_Sqo4H2qodgnRq1tP2CVClDjDE06GGEYBB04Ms8osh2vYUaTtqe1Md-8NaRA/s400/asterrrrr_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: normal;">It's good at this point to make sure you have your emergency winter
feeders ready if you plan to use them. A major cause of colony death is late winter starvation
(February - April) which can be solved by the use of an emergency
winter feeder (<a href="http://www.beverlybees.com/i-want-candy-so-lets-make-a-candyboard-for-winter-feeding/" target="_blank">Candy Board</a>). </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXy6mKJGh42FFWwzo5WdfdMqmgty22VlOHy2TQzCYHEV3uLWosYGFFKhcpPHhYMrwMXGSpKD9X2b63EW8xjG0AW-CQuMI-kmeUFl1nO-LhHVgkGD7PeaZX_yQtlQ1AraEcblbU2xBR8g/s1600/Candy+board_5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXy6mKJGh42FFWwzo5WdfdMqmgty22VlOHy2TQzCYHEV3uLWosYGFFKhcpPHhYMrwMXGSpKD9X2b63EW8xjG0AW-CQuMI-kmeUFl1nO-LhHVgkGD7PeaZX_yQtlQ1AraEcblbU2xBR8g/s400/Candy+board_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Candyboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">They're
easy to build with 1x2's and quarter inch wire mesh and can be a colony
lifesaver. You can quickly check on the feeders through the late
winter to gauge the status of the food supply. Some beekeepers begin feeding in August. This
article "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2014/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a>"
describes the different methods of feeding at different temperatures.
The girls will take a 2 to 1 syrup down to about 12 celsius (53
fahrenheit) after which they find it too difficult to dehydrate for
storage. Some beekeepers will feed syrup baggies in colder temperatures
on the theory that heat from the cluster warms the syrup. I've not
tried this. In the Greater Vancouver area there are very big
differences in winter food requirements based on available foraging days
and available forage. Because of the effect of the North Shore
Mountains precipitation varies from 150+ inches (380 centimeters)
annually at the upper altitudes of the mountains to 30 inches (75
centimeters) along the U.S. border. This effect reduces precipitation
and increases hours of sunlight as you move southward. The graph below
divides Greater Vancouver into 9 zones with 9 being the upper altitudes
of the North Shore Mountains and 1 being the southern region along the
U.S. border (<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/clzry9yrghgpdyf/Greater%20Vancouver%20Rainfall.pdf?dl=0" target="_blank">Greater Vancouver Precipitation</a>). As the crow flies this is a distance of less than 30 kilometers or 20 miles.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLsyFDu_7kb6gl4XoKts-CPzFbeWH-WlzGhgwljaFlAiK9eGW82V80Pcl0-beidzHBUxktuCJ-HL3aGnDGc4cVBbRwJoyw2zzsjjQKHRxEfodSj31DlMztYy0oWm7dw8s_t2LTidqHss/s1600/Temp.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLsyFDu_7kb6gl4XoKts-CPzFbeWH-WlzGhgwljaFlAiK9eGW82V80Pcl0-beidzHBUxktuCJ-HL3aGnDGc4cVBbRwJoyw2zzsjjQKHRxEfodSj31DlMztYy0oWm7dw8s_t2LTidqHss/s640/Temp.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Though
active at lower temperatures I have found high population foraging in
our apiary at 12 degrees celsius (53 fahrenheit) in March (Willow trees,
Forsythia, Flowering Cherry).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dM88-qj8MoZR7vmZo7SxPKHrZfkdtSpNXC7YYpOwrrZvhLa8xYlGmHj6QXxK3KcbBCqd0mQbphEG9O6HqEHOeP48QS2yYftIpHywCV06_djfJSD-nvtLMZGpmiDdnmkYrpIwO9zrssg/s1600/Daylight.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dM88-qj8MoZR7vmZo7SxPKHrZfkdtSpNXC7YYpOwrrZvhLa8xYlGmHj6QXxK3KcbBCqd0mQbphEG9O6HqEHOeP48QS2yYftIpHywCV06_djfJSD-nvtLMZGpmiDdnmkYrpIwO9zrssg/s640/Daylight.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">This
means more flyable, foraging weather the further south you live and the
more active the colony with the additional needed sunshine warming the
hive and bees. I have observed the activity of the bees throughout the
lower mainland to be directly linked to the number of hours of sunlight
on the hives. Conclusion, for optimum colony health move to a southern
suburb like Tsawwassen, Ladner, White Rock or Abbotsford or maximize the
sun exposure on your hives (South to southeast exposure with minimal
shade). We moved our apiary because it was surrounded by fast growing
Black Locust, Willow and Cottonwood trees (Great pollen and nectar
sources). </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Also effecting hive performance is available
forage which can vary according to whether you are in a rural
agricultural or urban setting. The rural, agricultural areas in Surrey,
Delta and the Fraser Valley tend to have extreme honey and brood
production during crop blossoms but can suffer in the off season while
the urban areas tend to have a more consistent food source availability
throughout the foraging period (March - November) due to urban
landscaping and irrigation. We're fortunate to have 7 cultivated acres
in our 2 combined community gardens surrounded by fields of clover and
flowering trees. While it varies by region, because of the reasons
discussed above (weather and available forage) and the size of the
colony we need on average a minimum of 10 deep or 12 medium frames of honey
(65 lbs or 30 kilograms) to over winter. The honey frames should be
positioned on both sides of the cluster in the bottom box and above the
cluster in the second super (super = hive box). If the cluster is in an
upper box it's recommended to switch the box to the bottom in
preparation for winter. In the spring you can reverse that process as
the girls will have worked their way up to upper part of the second box.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s1600/Capture_0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZVOZo-ZxcZW-JMKoZ6eRfphFT7zJBilECaxQ2au5_K0MU0IkDlUqFs4-P9GDiD-sF0KHQd_vopSu9CpqhsYHeeZrtUGLATsKvXeRpstNyUa373aubjAMi0q5EuLipy8QUD3pHAdRbIY/s400/Capture_0.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter cluster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">For
a Kenyan Top Bar put the cluster at one end and the honey frames next
to the cluster. I've always run all deep supers in my Langstroth hives
because universal boxes and frames are easier to manage. I can add
honey frames from my third or fourth box to the brood boxes to over
winter. Many new beekeepers and some old are moving towards all medium
boxes because of the lighter weight. This makes sense as a deep box of
honey can weigh 80 lbs (36 kgs).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> All beekeepers have plus
and negative food accumulation months and generally April 1 to Oct 1 are
positive food accumulation months for us in the Strathcona area of
Vancouver. March and October can be neutral but are usually negative depending on
the available foraging days (weather). November through February are
winter cluster, negative food accumulation months.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Pest and Disease Control </span></b><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The biggest problem I see with new beekeepers is not planning ahead. In our beekeeping coop new beekeepers are always rushing around for needed hive boxes and frames, feeders, robber screens, quilts …. The best advice I could give new beekeepers is to plan 2 months ahead of where you are at. Pest and disease identification and control should be an ongoing process and if you are beginning now it may be too late. Evidence of chalk brood or nosema would indicate a weak colony (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandparasites" target="_blank">Honey Bee Diseases and Parasites</a>). Increased ventilation and removal of old comb can be done to combat the chalk brood and a <a href="http://scientificbeekeeping.com/nosema-ceranae/treatment-for-nosema/" target="_blank">pollen patty/fumagillin mixture</a> may help combat the nosema. Mite counts throughout the year and subsequent treatments should let you know whether you have a major issue. Mite treatments like formic acid can continue into October as long as there is a day time high temp of 10c and oxalic acid is usually done in December when there is little to no brood present. A reduced screened entrance using eighth inch hardware cloth can be used to allow for needed ventilation during formic acid treatments while providing a more easily defended reduced entrance. The video below "Getting Your Hives Ready for Winter" is a recorded webinar with Kim Flottum (Bee expert and editor of Bee Culture magazine) which does a very good job of discussing winter preparation for bee colonies focusing on year around mite control. Controlling mites goes a long way to controlling virus transmission and overall colony health.</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wxk5at5Pqps?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Cold and Moisture</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="https://beeinformed.org/results/the-bee-informed-partnership-national-management-survey-2014-2015/" target="_blank">U.S. Bee Informed Survey</a> of wintering hives (the only large scale North American winter survival survey) showed that only 3 conditions determined winter survival success and they were adequate food, strong colonies (equalization or combining hives) and ventilation (moisture reduction).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPP4hBR1d6fUCwSrVtG6OnEV-ZPcIDE9E6gL1OVRyl6VJeQrrR-cw-i-vdHb7ri0kAfNLxN9oNZIcg5YHgE0n3tbF98YDBU9XFB7xEYc9S7T88-OKG0hjjfG1dMDTU7UNLbm0AsIDoCE/s1600/Bee+Informed_4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPP4hBR1d6fUCwSrVtG6OnEV-ZPcIDE9E6gL1OVRyl6VJeQrrR-cw-i-vdHb7ri0kAfNLxN9oNZIcg5YHgE0n3tbF98YDBU9XFB7xEYc9S7T88-OKG0hjjfG1dMDTU7UNLbm0AsIDoCE/s640/Bee+Informed_4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The survey is extensive and includes the results for geographic region, all types of pest and disease management, feeding and winter preparation. <a href="https://bip2.beeinformed.org/survey" target="_blank">The Bee Informed Survey 2016 - 2017</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RLVmdWKOHy_CPM9pJCeZBFdCbK9N3isBNDQMceRHeOeEhWwA72nHy1rps5ukfPXLf0LPAdYn41UfsiStXIXw81K1vmWBPyQhHfGV58rkYpaXPOF5V5rf_-4dEv-_PlararVo1Ln7zkk/s1600/vent_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RLVmdWKOHy_CPM9pJCeZBFdCbK9N3isBNDQMceRHeOeEhWwA72nHy1rps5ukfPXLf0LPAdYn41UfsiStXIXw81K1vmWBPyQhHfGV58rkYpaXPOF5V5rf_-4dEv-_PlararVo1Ln7zkk/s400/vent_3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Wrapping and insulation showed no benefit but I think that depends on where you live. If you live in cold northern climates like <a href="http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-deep-freeze-as-cold-as-uninhabited-planet-1.2479967" target="_blank">Winterpeg</a> either you wrap and insulate or you bring the girls inside. 40 below is 40 below.
Insulation is not necessary in Vancouver and can be counter productive by keeping the heat out and preventing the hive from warming up. Some local beekeepers wrap their hives with black roofing paper to prevent wind penetration and to help absorb the heat (<a href="http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=3873" target="_blank">Black objects absorb more heat</a>). The argument against this is that the girls take care of any wind penetration with use of propolis and do we want a warmer hive in the winter? Warmer means more active bees and more food consumption. For us wrapping in March may be a good option as we have lots of blossoms (Willow, forsythia, flowering cherry, bulbs ...) but marginal foraging temperatures. Wrapping would warm the hives and get the girls flying earlier in the day increasing their pollen and nectar intake and stimulate egg laying.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh3jWiQxPVhyEaUe6KAzDBS51uz1qKsYT_kLQpIJFxY1WBVUmkdMMaAsukFToo6I81H5ZyOSLsWClb1OGh3qrJkrx3BqQjCd5tOxVfaULXZF4TOlt2x1Lc55aUbo5ML718vx4lFCP6ho/s1600/black_5.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temperature difference on black and white surface</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Wintering your bees is like real estate value in that the 3 most important
considerations are location, location and location. Location
dictates the methods you will use to protect your bees from the
elements. Windbreaks are essential in some areas where there are cold,
winter winds, especially for rooftop beekeepers. In winter Vancouver has a predominant, low pressure weather pattern with
winds from the southeast that bring with it fairly constant cool, wet weather. We have only a few snow falls per year and a few weeks of freezing temperatures. Therefore moisture, not cold is our biggest issue. The moisture is created when warm air created by the cluster of bees rises and contacts the cold inner cover creating cold condensation which drips onto the cluster. There are a lot of different methods to reduce moisture in the hive like tilting the hive forward by putting a 2x4 under the back of the hive to allow the moisture to run down the front of the hive and not on the cluster. Another option is an <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2011/10/moisture-quilt-insulated-hive-cover.html" target="_blank">Insulated Moisture Quilt</a> placed above the hive boxes to reduce cold condensation dripping on the winter cluster.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s1600/Stage+18_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBZR_MWB638n3ZKNE-lcYh8vJl-AX_8k9zWKfs5yXL1oHZrDJ6sGFO4EZmp74-Y5ZlLujzyCSdRKKscO7hL-g8T6k_oUeK00AVMC8PKTtz85tKiZGGVI7r6jMsKzXha0WLP8wGgIIUdo/s640/Stage+18_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bee hive in winter without any form of moisture reduction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s1600/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcA6Jv8dYP-MZjUK2LkUtVsa08kvEv6VL8esEBDT3stqtCyXFCksJFqZy87yg1sapSqBo531WwPlxfVHRBoiCocyahUGeJew4UrHMQuUJJfEvup752zSZVd4cO0n8CCXE_OxLD2NCqwk/s400/Insulated+Moisture+Quilt_2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insulated Moisture Quilt</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The heat produced by the cluster rises to contact the warmer insulated cover producing less condensation, which then drips onto the wood chips (not the bees) which are dried by the vent holes. They are easy to make out of scrap material and the link above provides detailed building instructions. During winter you must have an upper entrance in your Langstroth hive for ventilation and because dead bees can block the lower entrance. I presently have my upper entrance covered with eighth inch hardware cloth to keep out robber bees and wasps. I will remove this once those threats have passed. For moisture reduction in a Kenyan Top Bar Hive beekeepers can use an insulated moisture quilt, carpet over the top bars (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Bill Stagg's method</a>) or reflective insulation (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi" target="_blank">Sam Comfort's method</a>). Whether you leave your screened bottom board open or not (for increased ventilation) is debatable but if left open you must block the drafts from blowing under the hive. I put the mite test board in to block the winter winds but have friends who do not and successfully overwinter their bees. One moisture issue is that if you feed syrup to your bees in September and October some of the stored syrup may not be capped before the arrival of winter and it may ferment and mold and increase the moisture within the hive.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> In Vancouver we get at least 2 major storms a year of 80+ km winds (50 miles per hr). For this reason and the presence of skunks and racoons we use cinder blocks on our hives to prevent the outer cover from blowing off or being removed and have positioned the hives to have a natural wind break (berm to the south). A wind break is particularly important for roof top beekeepers. Though not necessary some of us use pieces of plexiglass extending 4+ inches over our outer covers to provide additional weather protection and extend the life of our beekeeping equipment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Winter Hive</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Wasps</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">By October bee colonies are actively into winter preparation by
increased house cleaning, increased hive defense and the removal of
drones. The drones having fulfilled their roles in hive
thermoregulation and mating become a liability as they do not
participate in foraging or hive tasks and can consume twice that of
worker bees. Hygienic house cleaning (i.e removal of dead bees,
applying antiseptic propolis ...) which is difficult in the cold of
winter when the bees are confined to the cluster is an important part of
disease reduction. With the decrease in available forage robbing and
wasp attacks become a real concern starting in August so guard bees will become more
defensive and in the wild the colony may reduce the size of the entrance
with propolis and wax. The beekeeper can assist by reducing the
entrance to as small as 1.5 centimeters or a half inch to make it easier
to defend. The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a>
have been aggressive in our apiary for about 4 weeks, attempting to
enter hives and picking off stray bees at the entrance. I have reduced the bottom
entrance of my hives to between a half inch (1.5 cm) for weaker colonies to 3 inches for stronger colonies and screened off the upper entrance (eigth
inch hardware cloth). This blocks potential wasp intrusion and robbing
by other
bees
if you are feeding and still allows ventilation. The girls are better able
to defend the reduced single entrance. Wasps will stay active at cooler temperatures than your bees so when the girls are in cluster the wasps may enter the hive. I don't indiscriminately kill
wasps (I've identified 9 different types in our garden including
recently a parasitic wasp in my blue mason and leaf cutter bee cocoons) but have found them
increasingly aggressive towards our colonies for a longer period of time
in the fall (last year until December). I've found the pheremone lure variety to
be very effective on our greatest threat which are the common <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow_jacket" target="_blank">Yellowjacket wasps</a>. This lure trap can also be used in the spring to kill the emerging wasp queens. The <a href="http://www.rescue.com/product/why-trap-wasps-hornets-yellowjackets" target="_blank">Rescue</a> brand lure variety works well.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYx6mARUE90nxamMbNZbD1hR6-dY-it7YT5t4vYdQrgG-x8KeRBo05O4Kv0k_y9ITaHa4qTj7r3aazkzBPiXEj41gGp2PAwHp-Xn3CKSWsBn1_P2hwhTqCLzdn-kwQZ5wNH7kEehaAPpg/s1600/wasp_2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wasp trap</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can also make your own wasp trap. Here is a
study from the University of Athens showing the effectiveness of 3
different types of traps (<a href="http://www.bulletinofinsectology.org/pdfarticles/vol59-2006-135-145bacandritsos.pdf" target="_blank">Wasp Traps</a>). Maybe the easiest and most popular is the<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Wasp-Trap" target="_blank"> pop bottle trap</a>. Here is a study from the University of California
on the effectiveness of different baits (<a href="http://www.pestboard.ca.gov/howdoi/research/2009_yellowjacket.pdf" target="_blank">Baits for the Control of Yellowjackets</a>). I've not had much success with fish or meat baits later in the summer. Wasps prefer a sugar and water bait at this time of year. Add a splash of vinegar to keep the bees away. For more information on wasps go to the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wasps" target="_blank">Wasp</a> section of our <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeeping Library</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">If wasp attacks or robbing persists you can use a <a href="http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/files/147611.pdf" target="_blank">robber screen</a> which are easy to make.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Equalization or Combining Colonies</span><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></b></span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> It is recommended that new beekeepers have
2 hives rather than 1 because inevitably one will be stronger than the other. This allows you to strengthen the weaker hive with bees from the
stronger colony (<a href="http://countryrubes.com/template/images/Equalization_of_Bee_Colonies_Strength_update_9_09.pdf" target="_blank">Equalization of Bee Colonies Strength by Khalil Hamdan</a>) or to split the stronger hive if you lose the weaker colony. Though this can be done in the spring it can also be done in preparation for winter by adding 2-3 frames
of bees and brood as needed and available every 3-4 weeks starting in July. If you find you have a weak colony now you can combine the colony with a stronger one using the newspaper method (<a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/unitenewspaper.html" target="_blank">Uniting Honey Bees by David Cushman</a>). Although some will insist it imperative to kill the weaker queen others like the late, great <a href="http://www.dave-cushman.net/" target="_blank">David Cushman</a> suggest that it is not necessary: "Many texts will tell you to kill the least desirable queen in one of the
two groups to be united, but I find it is often prudent to leave both
queens, so that the bees can make the choice, in most cases the younger
and fitter queen remains, but there may be subtle things in a queen's
make up that the bees are better able to make
choices about rather than the beekeeper (David Cushman)." Some beekeepers (not me) like to requeen as part of their winter preparation to make sure they have young, active queens the following spring. In October most beekeepers reduce their Langstroth hives to 2 deep supers and Kenyan Top Bar hives are reduced by moving your follower board or your false backs forward (<a href="https://app.box.com/s/cv4940rtyau4hivphwed" target="_blank">Winterizing your Top Bar Hive</a>). Queen excluders should be removed so the queen can move with the cluster as it moves upward.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4_QCSwURgMoCwyegfW5823aimL9TMrCOhl9MrmHqrUD0mk3k8afHwEnaYMJVH4vm1mdactT75Jtti08KyokMHjyZs4nlyDqqtYAisVsFXX3xlozi5H7ksheGiQZy2awCrCT-vB75fpI/s1600/newspaper_uniting.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4_QCSwURgMoCwyegfW5823aimL9TMrCOhl9MrmHqrUD0mk3k8afHwEnaYMJVH4vm1mdactT75Jtti08KyokMHjyZs4nlyDqqtYAisVsFXX3xlozi5H7ksheGiQZy2awCrCT-vB75fpI/s320/newspaper_uniting.gif" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The newspaper method of combining hives</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Mice</span></b> </span> <br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Though still mild it's time to think of mice which like to winter
in the hives. There are a hundred different varieties of mouse proof
entrances from quarter inch screened mesh, drilled metal sheet to simple
nails minimizing the entrance. The mice can get through a fairly small area and will chew through wood. I use a simple wood entrance reducer with a nail reducing the entrance to just over the width of a bee. This allows for the removal of dead bees which the girls do as part of winter house cleaning. If you find the mice chewing on the entrance reducer you can wrap it in wire mesh. Here is an easy <a href="https://brookfieldfarmhoney.wordpress.com/2013/11/04/making-mouse-guards-2013/" target="_blank">step by step guide to making a mouse guard from Brooksfield Farm</a> just south of us near Mt. Baker.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Difficult house cleaning</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s1600/mouse2_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMIasoKJrkd-nhWWs-2gVQA9dKbx5i3lnmCjpPTDZwhXsuX1C5-nl4Itn59QB6GhvLJsFD3N78eTa9t_srxfJufKDSLGfO_p1AaaGQc4R3no0F3dGvjKyvyVyCSHfn-llIoZNFt8aSak/s400/mouse2_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wire mesh mouse proof entrance reducer</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For more information on wintering your colonies check out the recorded webinars by Kim Flottum, <a href="http://youtu.be/Wxk5at5Pqps" target="_blank">"Getting your hives ready for winter" </a> or
<a href="http://youtu.be/OdA1SnRKi90" target="_blank">"Putting the hive to bed for winter"</a>. You may also want to check out <a href="https://app.box.com/s/x1ewocs9t5tt94xltb21">The Biology and Management of
Colonies in Winter</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/gfxqpkmaz4e4mf41u5oi">Winterization
Guide for Beekeeping</a> , <a href="https://app.box.com/s/ajcqvuu8e6z3yutmxkzl">The
Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies</a> or <a href="https://app.box.com/s/csires9qmv2ylz0c21o5">Wrapping a Honey Bee Colony
with Tar Paper</a> from the "<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#wintermanagement" target="_blank">Winter Management</a>" section of the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>. Good luck to you and your bees and stay dry. </span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.1207375000000249.1169156 -123.44346100000001 49.448542599999996 -122.79801400000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-57021623428998165282018-06-27T11:37:00.002-07:002021-10-24T19:52:06.864-07:00Top Bar Hive Split<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos by Colin</td></tr>
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It was a beautiful day for a top bar hive split in our Vancouver beekeeping coop in Strathcona Park. It was about 20 Celsius (70 fahrenheit), no wind and the birds were singing. Anna's treatment free Kenyan Top Bar hive contained a strong, survivor stock of bees from a treatment free bee breeder that had overwintered and thrived. Everyone joined in to assist and learn. She was also able to harvest some honey (<a href="https://www.dummies.com/home-garden/hobby-farming/beekeeping/harvesting-honey-top-bar-hive/" target="_blank">Top Bar Honey Harvesting</a>).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ap7CsCsxcuN-P1mImxSsBTbD7Cxknn_C/view" target="_blank">removing a honey frame for crush and strain extraction</a></td></tr>
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The split method we employed is moving 2 frames of brood of different ages and 2 frames of honey into the split along with the old queen. Anna found the queen on a honey frame. Anna also shook a few frames of bees into the new hive. The parent hive was left with new uncapped brood and 2 capped queen cells. We also moved the positon of the old hive over 1 foot and placed the new hive next to it in an effort to gain some foragers. A similar method of colony division is described by Les Crowder in the video below (The split begins 16 minutes into the video). <br />
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Thanks to Colin for the great photos. For more information on top bar beekeeping go to the <a href="https://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.com/p/natural-beekeeping.html" target="_blank">Top Bar section of our Beekeepers' Library</a>.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.1207375000000249.1169156 -123.44346100000001 49.448542599999996 -122.79801400000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-13117653005604487252018-05-05T19:55:00.000-07:002019-02-18T13:40:09.724-08:00Introduction to Beekeeping in Vancouver Class<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Every year in May and June we have presented our "Introduction to
Beekeeping in Vancouver" classes. Beekeeping has become popular and a
recent survey in the U.S. revealed that over 70% of beekeepers quit
beekeeping within the first 5 years. I believe this is because people
enter into beekeeping too quickly and are not properly prepared for the
dedication of time and continuous learning that is required to be a
competent beekeeper. Also, new beekeepers do not have the support
needed to deal with problems that arise. The goal of this class is not
to discourage you or take the place of a full beekeeping course but to
assist you and better prepare you in your decision to become a
beekeeper.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQIbw1dPL5Jlt2dsDFG7Z8djwFdYQpI6SJCLuQvza_xxRS38D4DzwvO4ITe-eX9SRHByX3et_EpKwHpgCyOhI_KXZDcmIjCZZAfhGnKSHm8n4C2gu7MdxtoO_66NXaVU85zXxsjO2bTfI/s1600/Being+with+the+Bees+Kurt+Liebich+1896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQIbw1dPL5Jlt2dsDFG7Z8djwFdYQpI6SJCLuQvza_xxRS38D4DzwvO4ITe-eX9SRHByX3et_EpKwHpgCyOhI_KXZDcmIjCZZAfhGnKSHm8n4C2gu7MdxtoO_66NXaVU85zXxsjO2bTfI/s320/Being+with+the+Bees+Kurt+Liebich+1896.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beeing with Bees by Kurt Liebich 1896</td></tr>
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We will provide you with a very basic theoretical overview of honey
bees and beekeeping and answer all of your questions. The class is
about 2 hours in length (1 hour theory and 1 hour in the hives) and as it is held outside is weather dependent.
We keep the class small so that everyone can have if they wish an
intimate experience with the bees so reservation is necessary. There is
no cost and we provide the veil and gloves. Our classes are held at
Cottonwood Community Garden in Strathcona Park in Vancouver. To reserve a spot in
our first "Introduction to Beekeeping Class" on May 26 contact us at "<b>strathconabee at gmaildotcom</b>". For more information on beekeeping
courses check out our <a href="http://goo.gl/QwF7ES" target="_blank">Vancouver Beekeeping Courses</a> page.<br />
All of theory needed to be a beekeeper is available for free online. A good start is "<a href="http://goo.gl/DB9E2a" target="_blank">Beekeeping 101</a>" which is an assortment of books, videos and online university beekeeping courses. Our <a href="http://goo.gl/doxovX" target="_blank">Beekeepers' Library</a>
is also a good source of information. While theory is important the
practical application and guidance of experienced beekeepers is more
so. We look forward to seeing you at our beekeeping class.<br />
Update 2019: We no longer run our introduction to beekeeping courses. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjsiFUKeOCsXTB_kAX6-gfqoAdIlNRHbzuSf6-T3iTE7AIBxAPlrzZXK_FCHWi3y0v0rMj_VJXSA7n4IpSghmjB0DpgJqBcMbTa3fHc0YSvILmazfyR8YGi0eL9wp_m5r0bepCRU1p0U/s1600/Kale+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1377" data-original-width="1600" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjsiFUKeOCsXTB_kAX6-gfqoAdIlNRHbzuSf6-T3iTE7AIBxAPlrzZXK_FCHWi3y0v0rMj_VJXSA7n4IpSghmjB0DpgJqBcMbTa3fHc0YSvILmazfyR8YGi0eL9wp_m5r0bepCRU1p0U/s400/Kale+%25284%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of our girls enjoying a Kale blossom</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, BC, Canada49.2827291 -123.1207375000000249.1169156 -123.44346100000001 49.448542599999996 -122.79801400000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-53976667915345875932018-03-13T10:04:00.000-07:002018-11-18T07:56:13.045-08:00Mason Beekeeping<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osmia_lignaria" target="_blank">Blue Orchard Mason Bee (Osmia Lignaria)</a></td></tr>
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An unfortunate part of the recent popularity of honey beekeeping is a high drop out rate of new beekeepers within the first few years because of the significant commitment of time and money. For those of us who whether the storm of diseases, pests and colony losses it can become a life long obsession and love. For others an easier, cheap alternative (minus the honey) is to provide homes for native pollinators. </div>
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While I am a keeper of honey bees, I also house mason and <a href="https://backyardpollinator.ca/" target="_blank">leafcutter bees</a> in my garden. The mason bees also known as Osmia Lignaria are an important, native spring pollinator in our area of the world. I've found them actively foraging at temperatures a few degrees cooler than honey bees which is important for early spring fruit pollination. For many crops our native bees are better pollinators than honey bees and require far fewer bees.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lDaaDdu5IicYXxvGG9gjq-25h_2_ys4jUW-K8aLG4R82uvqjx6iwCgqzPHdawBsMR3Aa7roNicBUOewhsd0BxNJ67O8ElNI0Tj_JsDCt7kIxdpduAVIAqzwOCT5fGQ0ZRxW6GEQ6aWk/s1600/Capture.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="411" data-original-width="584" height="449" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0lDaaDdu5IicYXxvGG9gjq-25h_2_ys4jUW-K8aLG4R82uvqjx6iwCgqzPHdawBsMR3Aa7roNicBUOewhsd0BxNJ67O8ElNI0Tj_JsDCt7kIxdpduAVIAqzwOCT5fGQ0ZRxW6GEQ6aWk/s640/Capture.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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They make nests in reeds or natural holes and utilize mud to space their cocoons. While there is an endless variety of homes that you can make or purchase for your mason bees the important thing is that the inner nesting tube be accessible to clean and harvest the cocoons. Without the ability to access and clean the nesting area it would soon become filled with debris, mold, diseases (i.e. chalkbrood) and predators (i.e solitary wasps). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvatEsiLVZvU54J-pk0dYCTmy1Oo4o5XXi9RkICQcxBr63MDq3UYunXIuM6lJXnDcXxc116x3GCak_RyDTpuIUY9DM3G0IkiEMSsNKrubC_XqMY6MUMQXywgRNipRVnqS1qiAjUzKWmeY/s1600/IMG_0463-1024x683_2048x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="719" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvatEsiLVZvU54J-pk0dYCTmy1Oo4o5XXi9RkICQcxBr63MDq3UYunXIuM6lJXnDcXxc116x3GCak_RyDTpuIUY9DM3G0IkiEMSsNKrubC_XqMY6MUMQXywgRNipRVnqS1qiAjUzKWmeY/s400/IMG_0463-1024x683_2048x.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyv1T5cgs4CZS2BDEftlGoMmHvcPIVG5EJy_pUE_Oi1CZFAeSSQFBsCI1hItoMQilkYM22ufrlcVdIMhjg-s5CckUuoZLt_IJ-0mZpeeIyUodGLvlkgVkPks0tvBQMk5SWuSdOzghWIo/s1600/Capture.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="584" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyv1T5cgs4CZS2BDEftlGoMmHvcPIVG5EJy_pUE_Oi1CZFAeSSQFBsCI1hItoMQilkYM22ufrlcVdIMhjg-s5CckUuoZLt_IJ-0mZpeeIyUodGLvlkgVkPks0tvBQMk5SWuSdOzghWIo/s400/Capture.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Native pollinator homes should have some shelter from weather and face east or south to catch the early morning sun</td></tr>
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I make my mason bee houses by simply drilling half inch holes in 6 inch deep wood.<br />
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I use plain, unbleached brown paper from grocery bags rolled around a tent pole as liners which brings the finished diameter of the hole to the optimal 3/8 inch. The rolled liners extend 1 inch out the back and are folded over with a back wood plate screwed on. When harvest time comes I just unscrew the back plate and pull out the paper liners (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlU0FPMkU4c0dMcVU/view" target="_blank">Paper Liners That Work</a>). You can winter your cocoons in the fridge and release them in the spring. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mason Bee Cocoons</td></tr>
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For more information on how to manage Mason Bees for your home or farm go to the <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#nativepollinators" target="_blank">Native Pollinators</a> section of our Library and scroll down to Mason Bees.<br />
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Good Book</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="452" data-original-width="791" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfrZX7rYggu_sR_kEOGc8wX_KG_iNKEh7nCsPb6-sjnaITQ-oz0mwxFcTs_D4QAdc9OUfYDfoOPSH1rDgahq8qIzIbatoZZlu1Yio7pVaxqlYz7pfha4K3Ryh4Vyv5ZFu9lYWKnx4nPsY/s400/Capture.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlTTFPV3dRLWVockk/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">How to Manage the Blue Orchard Bee</a></td></tr>
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If you are just starting out you can buy cocoons off Craigslist for about 50 cents a cocoon and from some garden stores for $1 per cocoon. Good sources of supplies and information for mason and leafcutter bees are <a href="https://crownbees.com/" target="_blank">Crown Bees</a> and <a href="https://beediverse.com/" target="_blank">Beediverse</a>. Good luck.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4Vancouver, B.C., Canada48.69096039092549 -120.937523.16892589092549 -162.246094 74.212994890925486 -79.628906tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-85269790648346970332017-12-28T16:08:00.000-08:002017-12-28T16:08:29.039-08:00Hapbee New Year<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">To everyone I wish a very happy and healthy new year to you and your loved ones (including your bees). May your bees survive the cold of winter, develop a resistance to Varroa and other pests, be free of all diseases and produce buckets of honey.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> Please don't drink and fly!</span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-28892245883056015032017-08-20T20:14:00.000-07:002017-08-21T10:11:34.325-07:00The Effects of a Solar Eclipse on Honey Bees<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYtfs-hLDIafvQ2yALLvVeeWAenafv0R8yUJzAAzbpFF1L2FEKEh9F15mCgcx3LuUG_RpwqQ7tJ4J43EsT401O2lT7jyIrGoZ1eDtfrcwvry25f_TMLEI00lgxJZDXuT1lrmfBnLd2_mI/s1600/eclipse1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="640" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYtfs-hLDIafvQ2yALLvVeeWAenafv0R8yUJzAAzbpFF1L2FEKEh9F15mCgcx3LuUG_RpwqQ7tJ4J43EsT401O2lT7jyIrGoZ1eDtfrcwvry25f_TMLEI00lgxJZDXuT1lrmfBnLd2_mI/s640/eclipse1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With a solar eclipse scheduled for tomorrow morning (beginning at 9:10 am, reaching it's maximum at 10:21 and ending at 11:37am in Vancouver) and the obvious concern for eye safety I wondered how bees and other critters coped with this phenomena. It appears that unlike stupid humans animals generally don't stare at the sun so don't suffer from the damaging effects of the sun on eyesight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihf2CERRfyfB15Aa0_TkYEAJd1Z7cQFTUPPrB7pSeIlSFeItzHKhqh4oK-ZBod3dVwUJqq6uBTnGiJ9G-JweJORGTwYx59zxTlP1lh-mR8zvGiQA8imv9hD6z0x1LugzTDVs6g9k_wwr8/s1600/Capture.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="483" data-original-width="448" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihf2CERRfyfB15Aa0_TkYEAJd1Z7cQFTUPPrB7pSeIlSFeItzHKhqh4oK-ZBod3dVwUJqq6uBTnGiJ9G-JweJORGTwYx59zxTlP1lh-mR8zvGiQA8imv9hD6z0x1LugzTDVs6g9k_wwr8/s640/Capture.PNG" width="592" /></a></div>
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As for honey bees, <a href="http://www.hobos.de/media/user_upload/Images_pdfs_etc/pressebeitraege/July_2016_235_Jurgen_Tautz.pdf" target="_blank">studies like the one above</a> from <a href="http://www.hobos.de/en/" target="_blank">HOBOS</a> honey bee research in 2015 show that foraging bee activity is decreased during an eclipse as it would be at the normal setting of the sun. "The reduction in flight activity commenced as soon as the brightness was lower than 400 watts/m2. Only as the re-emerging sun reached a brightness of 400 watts/m2 did the bees’ flight activities begin to increase once
more. The bees also reduced their flying ventures in the evening when the brightness level
falls below the 400 watts/m2 mark." Similar conclusions were drawn in a 1957 study of Apis Dorsata in India (<a href="http://www.insa.nic.in/writereaddata/UpLoadedFiles/PINSA/Vol22B_1956_5_Art06.pdf" target="_blank">Behaviour of Apis Dorsata during a partial solar eclipse in India</a>). I'm relieved I don't have to look for solar eclipse glasses for my bees.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-59169555276048131872017-06-03T14:36:00.000-07:002018-11-18T07:57:44.620-08:00Bad Nuc Rant<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The last few years I have observed an abundance of bad bee nucs for sale in the Vancouver area. Last year a number of beekeepers in our beekeeping coop bought nucs from a local retailer, all of which contained swarm cells. As a result all of the nucs swarmed within the first week creating smaller nucs and very small swarms. The owner of the company explained that the nucs were made by inexperienced workers who improperly made the nucs with swarm cells and newly introduced queens.<br />
This week a few nucs were bought by beekeepers in our organization from another beekeeping supply retailer. The nuc boxes had scotch tape on the entrance (half attached), the lids were not attached, the brood comb was black (old) and the nuc boxes were older. The nucs contained 2 frames of old, spotty brood, 2 wet frames, a queen cage and no laying queen. Both of these retailers are good, knowledgeable beekeeping suppliers and the criticism is directed more towards the lack of long term bee breeders not the bee retailers (though the argument could be made that you are responsible for what you are selling).<br />
The bottom line is that we have a very poor, unsustainable honey bee population in greater Vancouver with most of the bees produced done so for a quick dollar rather than creating a legacy of strong, survivor stock. <a href="http://winstonhive.com/?page_id=10" target="_blank">Mark Winston</a>, an SFU professor, biologist and beekeeper produced a study 30 years ago that suggested it was economically feasible to produce honey bee nucs and packages in the Fraser Valley (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb0NKRW1ZakVoRmM/view?pref=2&pli=1" target="_blank">Package and Nucleus production in the Fraser Valley</a>). This potential has not been realized and instead we have become dependent on imported packages and poorly created nucs. Good breeders in our area produce relatively few nucs and queens that don't begin to match the demand. Part of the reason is the extreme property values that make beekeeping not economically feasible in the Greater Vancouver area.<br />
Beekeepers ask me constantly if I can recommend a good bee nuc or queen source and I can't because the good sources are sold out before the bees are ready. If anyone knows of a good source of bees let us know. Bad nuc rant over.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-13026269428921739172017-04-29T23:09:00.002-07:002018-11-18T07:58:44.214-08:00La Nina Beekeeping<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Ni%C3%B1a" target="_blank">La Nina weather pattern</a> is cooler than average sea surface temperatures in the Pacific Ocean (3-5 degrees C.) resulting in colder temperatures and above average precipitation for us in Vancouver. We have experienced these conditions through the winter with record snowfall in the local mountains and this weather pattern has continued through the early part of spring. <br />
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As beekeepers we are always acutely aware of the temperature and rainfall and it's effects on our bees foraging particularly in the early spring. This is a time of great potential brood development with the fruit trees in blossom (pollen) but because of the wet, cool spring both brood development and fruit production will suffer this year. Although our bees will collect pollen and nectar at colder temperatures we don't get major colony foraging until it's 12 C. (53 F.) and sunny. In Vancouver we have positive and negative honey bee food accumulation months. This will vary on your specific location but for our urban apiary the positive months are April 1 through to October 1 with March and October dependent on weather conditions. This year both March and April were negative.<br />
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How does this effect spring beekeeping management? For those who supplement their bees' diet feeding of both carbohydrates (sugar) and protein or protein supplement (to stimulate brood development) will be more important. Keep in mind that below about 12 C. (54 fahrenheit) the bees won't take a liquid syrup as they are unable to process it (<a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/2014/01/feeding-bees-in-winter.html" target="_blank">Feeding Bees in Winter</a>). <br />
In order to carry out spring management we must assess the health of our hives. Many sources (mostly southern) will insist you cannot inspect your frames until 15 C. (60 fahrenheit) for fear of chilling the brood. Some northern beekeepers would have to wait til well into May for this. Bees are hardier than most people think. Peeking briefly into a hive during winter on a non snowy day to assess the food supply is fine as is inspecting the brood at 10 C. (50 fahrenheit). Use common sense and minimize exposure. This from the Huron City Bee Company in Michigan,<br />
"How cold is too cold to inspect my hive?"<br />
I hear this question quite often at this time of year. Let me just say, I was late one year and needed inspection papers to transport my hives. So, one January morning, at 28 degrees, the state inspector and I opened the hives and inspected brood frames VERY quickly. The result was no detectable loss of brood. We didn't stand around, and we didn't chat while the hives were open. We worked smoothly, so as to disturb the cluster as little as possible. And we closed them up as quickly as we could.<br />
On the other hand, I've helped with inspections on a 70 degree day, where the beekeeper took out a frame of brood, stood it up and chatted for 20 minutes about what they found. Then later complained about chilled brood. See where I'm going with this? Go in, do what you need to do, and then get out quickly. However, I want to temper this advice with another question. If you DO find something wrong, what's your plan? Here in Michigan, it's 42 degrees right now. I wouldn't hesitate to pop open the hives. But, to what end? It's too late to replace a queen if I find one failing. The only thing I can do at this point is combine, and even then, they may remain clustered instead of merging. The take away message is not to be afraid of opening the hives. But, if you have no courses of action if you find something wrong, why bother?" I think this is a good year-round philosophy. I go into my hives with a specific purpose and only when required for responsible colony management.<br />
For us in Vancouver that means we should be able to do a full inspection by March to assess the queen performance (brood pattern), presence of disease (continued excessive bee poop on hive) or mites (small hive beetle has arrived - <a href="http://strathconabeekeepers.blogspot.ca/p/the-beekeepers-library.html#honeybeediseasesandparasites" target="_blank">Honey Bee Diseases and Parasites</a>) and food supply (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZGR1SjlWalV5ZVE/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">B.C. Government Spring Management</a>). Some of the spring beekeeping chores are: The cluster should be in the upper super so reverse the brood boxes; maintain a reduced entrance to prevent <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlX0VNV2x6LWhhY1k/view" target="_blank">robbing</a> or mice visits; optionally equalize the colonies by adding frames of bees of a strong colony to a weaker colony (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlRnk4ZVNDb2FGd1U/view" target="_blank">Equalization of bee colony strength</a>); cull your old foundation if you do so (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlMjFkdWJ3cExFemM/view" target="_blank">Replacing brood comb</a>); swarm prevention (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlOGhhbXFYUGFqcTQ/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">checkerboarding</a>, <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlWlQwVFZXOWk5TFk/view" target="_blank">splits</a> ... ) ; maintain good ventilation and empty your bottom board of dead bees and debris. In this article Randy Oliver and Dr. Medhat Nasr (Alberta Provincial Apiculturist) discuss the benefits of early season mite control through the formation of nucs with queen cells and the treatment of those nucs (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlZmZoSE9yYjlWLWM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Early Season Mite Management</a>).<br />
I have been warned of the presence of <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlbmFBc0NCcXRzMXc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">nosema</a> in some of this year's New Zealand packages. Whether that is true or an attempt to boost the sales of <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlb2w3SVhwWEQ5RUU/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">fumagillin</a> it's always a good idea to watch for signs of nosema (difficulty digesting food). Nosema is difficult to diagnose without laboratory equipment (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlaHp4NFBQY0dkQWc/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Nosema Assessment</a>). Some suggest a nosema infected midgut will become swollen, whitish and lose it's visible constrictions (a healthy midgut is tan with visible constrictions) but that is also true of other causes of dysentery. Symptoms that may suggest the presence of nosema are the lack of population buildup as nosema infected bees tend to skip the nurse bee phase and become young foragers, dying at a young age. Desperate they will forage at cooler temperatures and will not take syrup if fed. This from Randy Oliver, "Perhaps the most noticeable effect of N. ceranae infection is the lack of population buildup of infected colonies, due to the premature death of infected foragers. Of interest is that nosema-infected bees tend to forage at cooler temperatures. Woyciechowski (1998) suggests that infected bees may engage in more risky foraging behavior, perhaps sensing that they do not have long to live. Additionally, infected bees may simply fly off to die, exhibiting an “altruistic suicide” to help prevent the infection of nestmates (Kralj 2006). Another symptom, reported by several, and described by Bob Harrison on Bee-L, is that of bees not taking syrup, and then massively drowning in division board feeders. Bob feels that the symptom of going “off feed” is a good indicator for N. ceranae infection, which can be reversed with a drench of fumagillin syrup. The drowning behavior may have an explanation in a recent paper by Chris Mayak (2009), in which he found that “N. ceranae imposes an energetic stress on infected bees, revealed in their elevated appetite and hunger level…. infected bees attempt to compensate for the imposed energetic stress by feeding more…” Mayak suggests that such hungry, nutritionally stressed bees, exhibiting risky foraging behavior, might play a role in the depopulation of infected colonies."<br />
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Here are a few good spring beekeeping publications: <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlX3FfZmRBcEQ4bzA/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Ohio State Beekeepers' Association Spring Management</a>; <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtldHZicjE3UVRacTg/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">The National Bee Unit's Spring Checks</a>; <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlSnFXd1FzM041Sms/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring Management by Dana Stahlman</a>; and from the Ontario Beekeepers Association <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx7DrOGMiXtlcGt4cEl4QXpSdnM/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Spring Checklist: Potential Reasons for Honey Bee Colony Loss</a>.</div>
Due to the cool, wet La Nina weather plant development (blossoming) and our swarm season will be delayed by a few weeks. Other aspects of beekeeping like split creation and queen and local nuc availability will also be delayed. Also, it appears the price of nucs has risen this year to $225-$250. The delayed blossoming of plants may create a stronger late season September-October food supply for our bees. The <a href="https://www.theweathernetwork.com/news/articles/weather-network-2017-spring-forecast-el-nino-canada-precipitation-summer-sneak-peek/79842" target="_blank">Weather Network</a> predicts a cool, wet spring and a warmer summer than last year. "Some years there are strong signals in the global pattern that allow for higher confidence in a seasonal forecast, but unfortunately this is not one of those years. During the next few months, one of the keys to our final summer forecast will be the strength of the developing El Niño and whether the warmest water remains just west of South America or whether the warmest water shifts west into the central Pacific." The La Nina weather pattern can last for a few years but hopefully it will be replaced soon by the warmer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Ni%C3%B1o" target="_blank">El Nino</a> phase. We'll keep our wings crossed.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Vancouver, B.C., Canada48.922499263758255 -121.992187523.400464763758254 -163.3007815 74.444533763758258 -80.6835935tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644096506760919907.post-3667955914161302752016-01-07T18:23:00.030-08:002022-09-14T21:28:21.303-07:00Telling the Bees<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Bees and beekeeping have held a great importance to many cultures through history particularly prior to the arrival of sugar cane to colder areas of the world. A European tradition that was held by some beekeepers was referred to as "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telling_the_bees" target="_blank">Telling the Bees</a>". This involved informing the bees of any important family events like birth, marriage or death. Beekeepers would often leave small offerings like wedding cake or small sweets for a birth and drape the hives with black cloth or turn the hives away from the house upon death. It was said that the bees would either die or leave the hives if not told of the death of their keeper. Th<span style="font-family: inherit;">is</span> tr<span style="font-family: inherit;">adition was brought to the Americas by immigrants in the 19th century. </span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-family: inherit;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YB5Xb0mBI9I" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe>
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</span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span> In Mark Twain's Huckleberry Finn he wrote:
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<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">“And he said if a man owned a beehive and that man died, the bees must be told about
it before sun-up next morning, or else the bees would all weaken down and quit
work and die. Jim said bees wouldn't sting idiots; but I didn't believe that,
because I had tried them lots of times myself, and they wouldn't sting me.”</span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Another example of "Telling the Bees" is in England in 1840, a woman upon the death of their keeper leaving an offering of sweets and reciting the poem: </span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><span center="" style="font-family: inherit;" text-align:=""><span>Your master J.A. has passed away.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
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<span>But his wife now begs you will freely stay,</span></div>
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<span>and still gather honey for many a day.</span></div>
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<span>Bonny bees, Bonny bees, hear what I say. </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span><div> The process is described in 1901 work of Samuel Adams Drake A book of New England legends and folk lore in prose and poetry:</div><div>...goodwife of the house to go and hang the stand of hives with black, the usual symbol of mourning, she at the same time softly humming some doleful tune to herself. (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telling_the_bees" target="_blank">Wikipedia</a>)</div><div><br /></div></span></div></div>
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This video is of a Dutch beekeeper in l926 <span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>telling the bees </b>of a death. A black cloth is draped over one of the hives and he taps on each of the hives to get there attention to deliver the news. In Holland it was customary to use a pipe as a smoker to calm the bees. (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/Historical.Honeybee.Articles/" target="_blank">Historical Honeybee Articles</a>)</span><br /><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Here is a poem written by John Greenleaf Whittier about "Telling the Bees" of their keepers passing.</span></span></span><br /><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;">Telling
the Bees</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">(The
traditional <span style="font-style: italic;">telling</span> the bees
of a recent beekeeper passing)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Here
is the place; right over the hill</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Runs
the path I took;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">You
can see the gap in the old wall still,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the stepping-stones in the shallow brook.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There
is the house, with the gate red-barred,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the poplars tall;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the barn's brown length, and the cattle-yard,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the white horns tossing above the wall.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There
are the beehives ranged in the sun;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
down by the brink</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Of
the brook are her poor flowers, weed-o'errun,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Pansy
and daffodil, rose and pink.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A
year has gone, as the tortoise goes,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Heavy
and slow;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the same rose blows, and the same sun glows,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the same brook sings of a year ago.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There's
the same sweet clover-smell in the breeze;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the June sun warm</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Tangles
his wings of fire in the trees,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Setting,
as then, over Fernside farm.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
mind me how with a lover's care</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From
my Sunday coat</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
brushed off the burrs, and smoothed my hair,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
cooled at the brookside my brow and throat.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Since
we parted, a month had passed,--</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">To
love, a year;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Down
through the beeches I looked at last</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">On
the little red gate and the well-sweep near.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I
can see it all now,--the slantwise rain</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Of
light through the leaves,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
sundown's blaze on her window-pane,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
bloom of her roses under the eaves.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Just
the same as a month before,--</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
house and the trees,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
barn's brown gable, the vine by the door,--</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Nothing
changed but the hives of bees.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Before
them, under the garden wall,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Forward
and back,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Went
drearily singing the chore-girl small,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Draping
each hive with a shred of black.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Trembling,
I listened: The summer sun</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Had
the chill of snow;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">For
I knew she was telling the bees of one</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gone
on the journey we all must go!</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Then
I said to myself, 'My Mary weeps</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">For
the dead to-day;</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Haply
her blind old grandsire sleeps</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
fret and the pain of his age away.'</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But
her dog whined low; on the doorway sill,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With
his cane to his chin,</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The
old man sat; and the chore-girl still</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sung
to the bees stealing out and in.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And
the song she was singing ever since</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In
my ear sounds on:</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">'Stay
at home, pretty bees, fly not hence!</span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Mistress
Mary is dead and gone!'</span></span></span></div><div style="margin: 0in; text-align: center;"><span><i><br /></i></span>
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://daily.jstor.org/telling-the-bees/" target="_blank">Quaker writer John Greenleaf Whittier’s 1858 poem “Telling the Bees.”</a> (Daily Jstor)</span></div></div></div></div><div style="font-style: inherit; text-align: left;"><span><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="font-style: inherit; text-align: left;"><span><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> A poem by </span></span></span><span style="text-align: center;">by Katherine Tynan (l918)</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div><b>Tell it to the bees</b>, lest they</div><div><span>Umbrage take and fly away, </span></div><div><span>That the dearest boy is dead, </span></div><div><span>Who went singing, blithe, and dear, </span></div><div><span>By the golden hives last year. </span></div><div><span>Curly-head, ah, curly head!</span></div><div><span>Tell them that the summer’s over, </span></div><div><span>Over mignonette and clover;</span></div><div><span>Oh, speak low and very low!</span></div><div><span>Say that he was blithe and bonny, </span></div><div><span>Good as gold and sweet as honey, </span></div><div><span>All too late the roses blow!</span></div><div><span>Say he will not come again, </span></div><div><span>Not in any sun or rain, </span></div><div><span>Heart’s delight, ah, heart’s delight!</span></div><div><span>Tell them that the boy they knew</span></div><div><span>Sleeps out under rain and dew</span></div><div><span>In the night, ah, in the night!</span></div></span></span></span></div><div style="font-style: inherit; text-align: center;"><span><span><span style="font-family: inherit;">by Katherine Tynan (l918)</span></span></span></div><div style="font-style: italic; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="font-style: inherit; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> <a href="https://rosiehodgson.bandcamp.com/track/bee-boys-song" target="_blank">Here is a musical rendition</a> (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7Cc1qQd4lE" target="_blank">live</a>) of the poem "<b>The Bee-Boy's Song</b>" by Rudyard Kipling which depicts the practice of "Telling the Bees" sung by Rosie Hodgson.</span></span></span></div><div style="font-style: inherit; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span><span><span><div>Bees! Bees! Hark to your bees!</div><div>"Hide from your neigbours as much as you please,</div><div>But all that has happened, to us you must tell,</div><div>Or else we will give you no honey to sell!"</div><div><br /></div><div>A maiden in her glory,</div><div>Upon her wedding - day,</div><div>Must tell her Bees the story,</div><div>Or else they'll fly away.</div><div>Fly away -- die away --</div><div>Dwindle down and leave you!</div><div>But if you don't deceive your Bees,</div><div>Your Bees will not deceive you.</div><div><br /></div><div>Marriage, birth or buryin',</div><div>News across the seas,</div><div>All you're sad or merry in,</div><div>You must tell the Bees.</div><div>Tell 'em coming in an' out,</div><div>Where the Fanners fan,</div><div>'Cause the Bees are just about</div><div>As curious as a man!</div><div><br /></div><div>Don't you wait where the trees are,</div><div>When the lightnings play,</div><div>Nor don't you hate where Bees are,</div><div>Or else they'll pine away.</div><div>Pine away -- dwine away --</div><div>Anything to leave you!</div><div>But if you never grieve your Bees,</div><div>Your Bees'll never grieve you.</div><div style="font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit;">by Rudyard Kipling</div><div style="font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit;"><br /></div></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> There is also a tradition called "Asking the Bees" where a new beekeeper "Asks the Bees" to accept them as their keeper and to impart their wisdom to them. </span></span></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> Emily sent me a wonderful story of the prayers read at the funeral of Clive Watson<span style="font-family: inherit;">, a much loved <span style="font-family: inherit;">leader and supporter of the beekeeping commun<span style="font-family: inherit;">ity. These are the prayers that were read to his hives (<a href="https://ealingbees.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/clive-watson-funeral-prayers-for-the-bees.pdf" target="_blank">Telling the Bees</a></span></span></span>). </span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> With the recent passing of Queen Elizabeth II, John Chapple, the Palace beekeeper had the sad task of informing the royal bees of their master's passing (<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nWiv1Mc49d8btkrv2JBXFFprQ5k8gBow/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Telling the Bees from Bee Culture</a>). He placed black ribbons around the hives and explained that King Charles III is their new master. </span></span></span>“You knock on each hive and say, ‘The mistress is dead, but don’t you go. Your master <span><span><span>will be a good master to you.’”</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span> </div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm38wgT9qkZcIHKuLpM9hsofEujCbGzE9qiL3LshU0NIkROn8yoQXhokzf4fMe0KODOp2mwKS0kEyHiwxy67M5Nc4VXN_pWuGUxhdne_-NL0uZGPY9BMKd_2zM2qrpY9Y88JzT8kw4b4uz-jziLAOa-kj6ufjAV1UD2Eo_jc63VK0iGjsKb3jjwnND/s596/The%20Queens%20bees.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="454" data-original-width="596" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm38wgT9qkZcIHKuLpM9hsofEujCbGzE9qiL3LshU0NIkROn8yoQXhokzf4fMe0KODOp2mwKS0kEyHiwxy67M5Nc4VXN_pWuGUxhdne_-NL0uZGPY9BMKd_2zM2qrpY9Y88JzT8kw4b4uz-jziLAOa-kj6ufjAV1UD2Eo_jc63VK0iGjsKb3jjwnND/w640-h488/The%20Queens%20bees.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> I hope that upon my passing someone informs my bees. This is a film about a son informing the bees of his father's passing and deciding their future.</span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></span></span>
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