Honey Bee Nucs vs Packages

     Whether to buy a bee nuc or package depends like a lot of things on your location and needs.  

Nucs

     A nuc (nucleus of a colony) consists of 4-5 frames of bees in a half sized Langstroth deep box which should include a laying queen, 2 frames of brood, 2 frames of honey and/or pollen and possibly a fifth frame of drawn comb.  Local nucs for us are usually available starting in mid May.  The reason for this is the queen requires temperatures 15-20 C. (60-70 F.) to mate and the formation of drone congregation zones.  In some locations there is a supply of overwintered nucs which are made in August.  The benefits of using a nucleus over a package are that you have a fully functioning colony with a laying queen and brood pattern you can see.  You also have bees in all stages of development from egg to forager.  

 

Good brood pattern

     Unless it is an overwintered nuc produced in the late summer the queen should be a new queen (born this spring). The queen is established (brood pattern visible) and the worker bees in a nucleus colony know their roles so there are nurse bees and foragers and the foundation is set (drawn comb) which will put them at least a few weeks ahead of an imported package.  Because there are foragers and at least 2 frames of honey and pollen the nucleus will not require as much feeding.  Also, with local nucs there is no climatic and forage stress. A negative aspect of nucs is they are available for us l.5-2 months later than packages and may come on old, dark colored frames and nuc boxes that may contain diseases.   

Honey frame

Packages

     A typical package consists of 2-3 pounds of bees, a can of syrup and a queen. A 3 lb package is optimum for most as a 2 lb will be underpopulated and a 4 lb may experience some die off with less accessibility to the syrup can. Normally the package bees are from production hives where they shake out bees into the package box til the required weight is reached. A mated queen is then placed in the package, protected in a queen cage.  There is usually a container of syrup in the package to feed the bees for the few days of travel before they are transferred to a hive. The bees generally fair well for up to a week in a package. A package is usually put together a few days before sold and in the case of cold weather beekeepers in spring comes from a warmer location to the south. In our case because of government restrictions (No U.S. Bees to Canada) this means thousands of miles south from New Zealand, Australia or Chile. Many backyard beekeepers will not have drawn frames to install their packages on to so a lot of energy and feeding will be required to produce the wax to draw out the frames. With a package close attention needs to spent on the survival and performance of the new queen.

A lot of energy and feeding is required to draw out the comb

The video below shows the process of creating a package of bees.

      The main advantage of the package is that in cold weather areas they are available a few months before local nucs which allows beekeepers to take advantage of spring fruit blossoms and to lengthen the beekeeping season. 

      Packages are a necessity in some areas because of the lack of nucs available.  They are usually cheaper, have less pests and diseases (no comb) and can be installed into any type of hive.  Unlike the nuc you don't have bees in all stages of development and if queen acceptance and performance goes well it will take 3 weeks for new brood to be born and several weeks for the population to reach that of a 5 frame nuc.  Despite the added challenges most beekeepers have success with packages. 

     In most areas the packages come from a warmer climate so winter survival may be less likely as proven in a good, small scale study carried out in New England by master beekeeper Erin MacGregor-Forbes (Comparison of colony strength and survivability between nucs and packages).  This single study is certainly not conclusive evidence but suggests a problem with imported warm weather packages and a need for more projects like this.  Erin found a significant difference in winter survival between the southern package and nucleus (the nucs had twice the survival rate) but also found that a southern package with a replaced local queen performed as well as the nucleus. 

      In our situation bee packages may come from a similar climate but the opposite hemisphere so they leave the southern hemisphere in late summer and arrive in Canada a few days later in early Spring where it can be freezing temperatures and snowing (I have experienced this).  This obviously can be hard on the bees.  Erin also found in her study that the packages outperformed the nucs in terms of honey production which she attributed to a high rate of swarming by the nucleus colonies. I don't know if she took measures to prevent swarming but this has not been my experience .  I've not had exceptional problems with nucs swarming but have used swarm prevention methods like checkerboarding  (Check out the "Swarms" section in our Beekeepers' Library).



     The Prince William Regional Beekeepers Association in Virginia carried out a study which compared hives started from packages to those started from nucs which found a higher survival rate in nuc started hives, particularly evident in the second year (Promoting Sustainable Beekeeping Practices Through Local Production of Nucs and Local Honeybee Queens).  One aspect of their study was the importation of Africanized bee genetics and small hive beetles.  Importation of diseases and pests is perhaps the biggest challenge for beekeepers presently.  
     A survey by the Beekeepers Association of North Virginia to determine if the source of queens effected colony winter survival found significant differences between southern imported queens (23%) and local queens (87%).  While this is an extreme example I thinks it supports the theory of the benefits of the use of bees (queens or nucs) from a similar climate.

      Biologist and author Mark Winston (Bee Time: Lessons from the Hive) suggests we need to wean ourselves off of this dependence on imported bees.   In l985 he wrote "it is estimated that, at present colony densities, BC has the potential to produce 75,520 spring packages each year, and increased colony density and a higher level of commercial beekeeping could elevate this figure. Continued and increased package and nucleus production, coupled with increased wintering and queen production, could result in a high degree of Canadian self-sufficiency within the next few years (l989 Study on package and nuc production in B.C.)."  That self-sufficiency was never realized.  Large scale package and nuc production was never developed and with current 25-30% winter colony losses our dependence on imported packages will continue. The solution may be in the lowering of the winter loss rate through the development of a strong local, survivor stock with hygienic behavior and supporting the development of a large scale, local bee colony production industry.  Government initiative, leadership and support may be essential for this to be realized.

  

     In the video below Michael Palmer describes some of the difficulties associated with starting a bee hive from scratch using package bees including the lack of nurse bees for the new brood.

       Here are some questions you may want to ask your nuc supplier and some questions for queen purchasers as suggested by the BC Honey Producers Association.    For more information on nucs and packages check out "Splits, Nucs and Packages" in the Basic Beekeeping section of the Beekeepers' Library above.  Also check out the articles on overwintering nucs by Kirk Webster, Mel Disselkoen and others in the "Winter Management" section of our library.  Other comparitive studies include one from Beekeeping University which has produced a series "Nuc vs Package Bee Comparison"; Kamon Reynold's "Package vs Nuc Challenge"; and Doug the Bee Guy's "Nucs vs Package Bees".  In Vancouver BC Beekeeping and Urban Bee usually sell packages from the southern hemisphere in March-April and nucs late May-June (Vancouver Bees for Sale).  Good luck.

      

Winter Preparation for Vancouver Beekeepers

      It's September and time for Vancouver beekeepers to prepare for winter.  Actually winter preparation is an ongoing task (Beekeeping Calendar for B.C.).  The main reasons our bees die over the winter is starvation, colonies suffering from parasitic mite syndrome, too few bees to heat the cluster and moisture.  I complete my winter hive setup by the middle of October.  Much of what you do in preparation depends on your management style of beekeeping (virtually nothing for the extreme natural beekeeper to intense management for others).  This is a revised post from last year and are just a few suggestions based on my experience keeping bees in Vancouver.  Here is a beekeeper's fall checklist from the BC Tech Transfer Program which includes colony strength, brood diseases, mite monitoring, feeding and wrapping.  Beekeeping is very location dependent so for those outside of Vancouver revise accordingly (Check out the Winter Management section of our library).

     Something I practice is I never put to bed for winter a weak colony.  When I say above, winter preparation is an ongoing task I mean addressing a weakness at it's infancy by treatment or requeening long before September.  Adding frames of bees to a weak colony now won't make it a strong colony just a more populated weak colony.  Some of the practices I use for winter preparation are 2x4 under rear of hive to allow drainage down the front and not on the cluster, R5 insulation under the outer cover to reduce condensation, candy board added at start of winter (December), insulate, tar paper and mite test board in place.  Once again this is location dependant and I'm sure others will find other practices that work well for them.  I completed a formic acid treatment in August and will possibly do another later in September (mite check).  I have screened (eighth inch) entrance reducers to allow for treatment during wasp predation season (unusual low yellowjacket population this year but fairly strong bald faced hornet presence - picking off bees at hive entrance).  We have the normal skunk scrapings at the hive entrances this year and a first for me, a pair of sparrows that spent most of the summer picking off bees at the hive entrances (feeding their young).  Pretty good honey production year despite the cold, wet spring and early summer. 

Food    
     To address the food issue you will need about 10 deep frames or 15 medium frames of honey (65 lbs or 30 kgs) for an average sized colony to survive the winter.  In our specific location (Strathcona) we still have a good availability of nectar and pollen with many different plant species still in flower in our 4 acre garden and the surrounding area.  Due to global warming plants in Vancouver can begin to flower 2-3 weeks earlier than in the past so our forage shortage begins in mid September (the Goldenrod and common Aster are in bloom now).  The problem occurs when the temperatures are still warm enough from mid September through mid October for the colony to stay active.  An active colony without a natural food source may consume much of the winter food supply.  I'm fortunate this year to have a good supply of honey frames from my stronger hives that I can share with my weaker hives. If the food reserves are low it's a good time to feed syrup (September - October).  You can feed during formic acid treatment by using a hive top feeder and adding the feed either before or when you add the formic pads.  You cannot open the hive during the treatment period.  This article "Feeding Bees in Winter" describes the different methods of feeding at different temperatures.  The girls will take a 2 to 1 syrup down to about 12 celsius (53 fahrenheit) after which they find it too difficult to dehydrate for storage.  Some beekeepers will feed syrup baggies on top of the frames in colder temperatures on the theory that heat from the cluster warms the syrup.  I've not tried this.   An issue with syrup feeding this time of year is making sure most of the syrup the bees store gets capped.  The uncapped syrup will become a source of winter moisture and mold.    

     To address our main foraging shortage which occurs from mid September to mid October I have separated the root balls of common Asian Asters for planting and transplanted the invasive Canadian Goldenrod (Aster).  When mature the common Asian Aster becomes a 1.5 by 1.5 metre (4 by 4 foot) bush with hundreds of flowers and can bloom well into October.  We have a few hundred autumn flowering variety Asters in our 4 acre garden.  Other late bloomers in our garden are Japanese Anemone, Mint, Autumn Joy Sedum, Scarlet Runner Bean, Calendula, Sunflower, Rudbeckia, Purple Coneflower, Jersulam Artichoke and the invasive Japanese Knotweed  (Nectar Plants of British Columbia).  A mixed diet is beneficial for the girls so some other late blooming plants are Caryopteris 'Dark Knight' (Blue Mist Spirea), Dahlia, Hardy Fushia, Seven Sons flower (Autumn Lilac), Impatiens omeianan, Camellia sinensis (Hardy tea bush) and Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Olive) (Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens and Pollen Sources).  I will avoid the temptation to plant the invasive late blooming ivy and Himalayan Balsam. 

Goldenrod

Aster

It's good at this point to make sure you have your emergency winter feeders ready if you plan to use them. A major cause of colony death is late winter starvation (February - April) which can be solved by the use of an emergency winter feeder like this one from Beverly Bees (Candy Board).  During a prolonged cold spell bees may be unable to access honey on the other side of the box. A candy board directly above can be a lifesaver.  

Candyboard

They're easy to build with 1x4's and quarter or half inch wire mesh and can be a colony lifesaver.  You can quickly check on the feeders through the late winter to gauge the status of the food supply (Feeding Bees in Winter).  

     In the Greater Vancouver area there are some differences in winter food requirements based on available foraging days and available forage. Because of the  effect of the North Shore Mountains precipitation varies from 150+ inches (380 centimeters) annually at the upper altitudes of the mountains to 30 inches (75 centimeters) along the U.S. border.  This effect reduces precipitation and increases hours of sunlight as you move southward.  It can be sunny in the south and cloudy and rainy by the mountains.  An obvious benefit to late and early season foraging.  This is particularly beneficial in March and April when we have a lot of flowering plants available but marginal foraging weather.  The graph below divides Greater Vancouver into 9 zones with 9 being the upper altitudes of the North Shore Mountains and 1 being the southern region along the U.S. border (Greater Vancouver Precipitation).  As the crow flies this is a distance of less than 30 kilometers or 20 miles.

Though active at lower temperatures I have found high population foraging in our apiary at 12 degrees celsius (53 fahrenheit) in March (Willow trees, Forsythia, Flowering Cherry).

This means more flyable, foraging weather the further south you live and the more active the colony with the additional needed sunshine warming the hive and bees.  The activity of the bees is directly linked to the number of hours of sunlight on the hives.  For optimum colony health maximize the sun exposure on your hives (South to southeast exposure with minimal shade).  We moved our apiary because it was surrounded by fast growing Black Locust, Willow and Cottonwood trees (Great pollen and nectar sources).  Other than occasional bearding the hives didn't seem adversely affected by the extreme heat this summer (2021 - 40 celsius/ 100 fahrenheit).  * Update: Unfortunately we had 3 times the normal rainfall this September followed by temperatures 3-4 degrees cooler than normal in October decreasing the available foraging time.  Feeding may be essential for most.  Check your winter food supply.      
      Also effecting food availability and feeding in preparation for winter is whether you are in a rural agricultural or urban setting. The rural, agricultural areas in Surrey, Delta and the Fraser Valley tend to have extreme honey and brood production during crop blossoms but can suffer in the off season while the urban areas tend to have a more consistent food source availability throughout the foraging period (March - November) due to urban landscaping and irrigation.  

     The honey frames should be positioned on both sides of the cluster in the bottom box and above the cluster in the second super (super = hive box).  If the cluster is in an upper box it's recommended to switch the box to the bottom in preparation for winter.  In the spring you can reverse that process as the girls will have worked their way up to upper part of the second box.

Winter cluster at the end of winter

      For a Kenyan Top Bar put the cluster at one end and the honey frames next to the cluster.  I've often run all deep supers in my Langstroth hives because universal boxes and frames are easier to manage.  I can add honey frames from my third or fourth box to the brood boxes to over winter.  Many new beekeepers and some old are moving towards all medium boxes because of the lighter weight.  This makes sense as a deep box of honey can weigh 80 lbs (36 kgs).
      All beekeepers have plus and negative food accumulation months and generally April 1 to Oct 1 are positive food accumulation months for us in Vancouver.  March and October can be neutral but are usually negative depending on the available foraging days (weather).  November through February are winter cluster, negative food accumulation months.
 
Pest and Disease Control      
     Pest and disease identification and control should be an ongoing process and if you are beginning now it may be too late.  Evidence of chalk brood or nosema would indicate a weak colony (Diseases).  Increased ventilation and removal of old comb can be done to combat the chalk brood and a pollen patty/fumagillin mixture may help combat the nosema.  European Foulbrood can be treated with Terramycin and a positive AFB confirmation means disposal of the hive and prevention of spread.  Mite counts throughout the year and subsequent treatments should let you know whether you have a major issue.  Mite treatments like formic acid can continue into October as long as there is a day time high temp of 10c and although oxalic acid was traditionally done in December when there is little to no brood present (it does not effect mites in the brood) it is now a year round treatment option.  A mistake made by many beekeepers is to treat in August and with a large, healthy colony and assume everything is fine.  Continue mite tests and treatment through September.  If needed I will start my final formic acid treatment in the middle of September.  A reduced screened entrance using eighth inch hardware cloth can be used to allow for needed ventilation during formic acid treatments while providing a more easily defended (against wasps) reduced entrance.  I staple the eighth inch hardware cloth to the bottom board and first brood box.  I find this a necessity as the yellowjacket wasps are very aggressive starting in August.   

     The video below "Getting Your Hives Ready for Winter" is a recorded webinar with Kim Flottum (Bee expert and editor of Bee Culture magazine) which does a very good job of discussing winter preparation for bee colonies focusing on year around mite control.  Controlling mites goes a long way to controlling virus transmission and overall colony health.


 

Cold and Moisture
      The U.S. Bee Informed Survey of wintering hives (the only large scale North American winter survival survey) showed that only 3 conditions determined winter survival success and they were adequate food, strong colonies (equalization or combining hives) and ventilation (moisture reduction).

The survey is extensive and includes the results for geographic region, all types of pest and disease management, feeding and winter preparation.  The Bee Informed Survey 2016 - 2017

     Wrapping and insulation showed no benefit but I think that depends on where you live.  If you live in cold northern climates like Winterpeg either you wrap and insulate or you bring the girls inside. 40 below is 40 below.  While insulation is not traditionally necessary in Vancouver (we have a mild winter climate and rarely get much below freezing) I know some that do with good results.  Insulation could be counter productive by keeping the heat out and preventing the hive from warming up by the sun (Sun in Vancouver in winter?).  However,  insulation under the outer cover is effective at minimizing the temperature difference and resulting condensation between the outside and inner hive (With half inch R5 insulation no moisture and mold, without both).  Some local beekeepers wrap their hives with black roofing paper to prevent wind penetration and to help absorb the heat (Black objects absorb more heat).   It may be helpful but an argument against this is that the girls take care of  wind penetration with use of propolis and do we want a warmer hive in the winter?  Warmer means more active bees and more food consumption.  For us wrapping in March may be a good option as we have lots of blossoms (Willow, forsythia, flowering cherry, bulbs ...) but marginal foraging temperatures.  Wrapping would warm the hives and get the girls flying earlier in the day increasing their pollen and nectar intake and stimulate egg laying.  This winter with a prolonged forecast of -12 Celsius (10 Fahrenheit) I insulated and wrapped the hives.  Over the 2 week period we had cold temps and high winds.  Sunny and 6 Celsius (43 Fahrenheit) today I checked the hives and all were well and active with lots of cleansing flights (poop breaks) and house cleaning (removing dead bees).  One particularly strong 8 frame cluster came to greet me in an unfriendly manner when I added the candy board.     

Temperature difference on black and white surface

     

     Wintering your bees is like real estate value in that the 3 most important considerations are location, location and location.  Location dictates the methods you will use to protect your bees from the elements. Windbreaks are essential in some areas where there are cold, winter winds, especially for rooftop beekeepers.  In winter Vancouver has a predominant, low pressure weather pattern with winds from the southeast that bring with it fairly constant cool, wet weather.  We usually have only a few snow falls per year and a few weeks of freezing temperatures.  Therefore moisture, not cold is our biggest issue.  The moisture is created when warm air created by the cluster of bees rises and contacts the cold inner cover creating cold condensation which drips onto the cluster.  There are a lot of different methods to reduce moisture in the hive from dripping on the cluster like tilting the hive forward by putting a 2x4 under the back of the hive to allow the moisture to run down the front of the hive and not on the cluster and/or as mentioned above insulating under the outer cover.  Another option is an Insulated Moisture Quilt placed above the hive boxes to reduce cold condensation dripping on the winter cluster.

The bee hive in winter without any form of moisture reduction

Insulated Moisture Quilt

     The heat produced by the cluster rises to contact the warmer insulated cover producing less condensation, which then drips onto the wood chips (not the bees) which are dried by the vent holes.  They are easy to make out of scrap material (or an old hive box) and the link above provides detailed building instructions.  

     During winter you must have an upper entrance in your Langstroth hive for ventilation and because dead bees or snow can block the lower entrance. For moisture reduction in a Kenyan Top Bar Hive beekeepers can use an insulated moisture quilt, carpet over the top bars (Bill Stagg's method) or reflective insulation (Sam Comfort's method).  Whether you leave your screened bottom board open or not (for increased ventilation) is debatable but if left open you must block the drafts from blowing under the hive.  I put the mite test board in to block the winter winds.
     In Vancouver we usually get at least 2 major storms a year of 80+ km winds (50 miles per hr).  For this reason and the presence of skunks and racoons we use cinder blocks (ratchet straps are another option) on our hives to prevent the outer cover from blowing off or being removed and have positioned the hives to have a natural wind break (berm to the south).  A wind break is particularly important for roof top beekeepers.  Though not necessary some use pieces of plexiglass extending 4+ inches over our outer covers to provide additional weather protection and extend the life of our beekeeping equipment.

 Winter Hive

  

 
Wasps
      With the decrease in available forage robbing and wasp attacks become a real concern starting in August so guard bees will become more defensive and in the wild the colony may reduce the size of the entrance with propolis and wax.  The beekeeper can assist by reducing the entrance to as small as 1.5 centimeters or a half inch to make it easier to defend (weaker colonies).  In Vancouver wasps have been more aggressive, longer into the winter over the last few years.  I received a swarm call recently in December.  There had been a few hard frosts so out of interest (knowing it wasn't a swarm)  I went to see a very active paper yellowjacket nest in an unheated crawl space.  The Yellowjacket wasps and to a lesser degree Bald Faced Hornets are usually aggressive in our apiary starting in August, attempting to enter hives and picking off stray bees at the entrance.  This year I used eigth inch cloth as an entrance reducer to allow for mite treatment.  This blocks potential wasp intrusion and robbing by other bees if you are feeding and still allows ventilation. The girls are better able to defend the reduced single entrance.  Wasps will stay active at cooler temperatures than your bees so when the girls are in cluster the wasps may enter the hive.  I don't indiscriminately kill wasps (I've identified 9 different types in our garden including a parasitic wasp in my blue mason and leaf cutter bee cocoons) but have found them increasingly aggressive towards our colonies for a longer period of time in the fall (last year until December).  I've found the pheremone lure variety wasp trap to be very effective on our greatest threat which are the common Yellowjacket wasps (does not attract Bald Faced Hornets).  This lure trap can also be used in the spring to kill the emerging wasp queens.  The Rescue brand lure variety works well but the bait only lasts for about 5 days so can be expensive.

Wasp trap

You can also make your own wasp trap.  Here is a study from the University of Athens showing the effectiveness of 3 different types of traps (Wasp Traps).  Maybe the easiest and most popular is the pop bottle trap.  We have a number of these out now with a 50/50 mixture of sugar and water and a capfull of vinegar poured in the entrance to keep the bees away.  They have worked well but you need to add a capfull of vinegar occasionally to dissuade the bees.  Here is a study from the University of California on the effectiveness of different baits (Baits for the Control of Yellowjackets).  I've not had much success with fish or meat baits  later in the summer.  These protein baits are successful earlier in the season when the wasps are feeding their brood.  Wasps prefer a sugar and water bait at this time of year.  For more information on wasps go to the Wasp section of our Beekeeping Library.

  If wasp attacks or robbing persists and they gain access to your hive you can use a robber screen which are easy to make.

     Due to the homeless camp next to our hives last year we had a noticeable increase in our ground tunneling rat population this year which I believe resulted in a decrease in ground nesting yellowjacket wasps.  Charles Darwin and his children studied ground nesting bumble bees and found that the population of bumble bees was dependant on old maids who kept cats who killed the rats allowing for greater bumble bee ground nesting success.  We don't have any cats though this summer a pair of Sharp-shinned hawks moved in to help with the over population of rats.     

Equalization, Combining Colonies or Requeening     
      It is recommended that new beekeepers have 2 hives rather than 1 because inevitably one will be stronger than the other.  This allows you to strengthen the weaker hive with bees from the stronger colony (Equalization of Bee Colonies Strength by Khalil Hamdan) or to split the stronger hive if you lose the weaker colony.  Though this can be done in the spring it can also be done in preparation for winter by adding 2-3 frames of bees and brood as needed.  However, if you have a weak colony it's likely you have a sick colony or weak queen which would suggest treatment and/or requeening.  Adding frames of bees to a weak colony now won't make it a strong colony just a more populated weak colony.  You can also combine the weaker colony with a stronger one using the newspaper method (Uniting Honey Bees by David Cushman).  

    

The newspaper method of combining hives

     In October most beekeepers reduce their Langstroth hives to 2 deep supers (3 mediums) and Kenyan Top Bar hives are reduced by moving your follower board or your false backs forward (Winterizing your Top Bar Hive).  Queen excluders should be removed so the queen can move with the cluster as it moves upward

Mice    
      Though still mild it's time to think of mice which like to winter in the hives. There are a hundred different varieties of mouse proof entrances from quarter inch screened mesh, drilled metal sheet to simple nails minimizing the entrance.  The mice can get through a fairly small area and will chew through wood.  I use a simple wood entrance reducer with a nail reducing the entrance to just over the width of a bee.  This allows for the removal of dead bees which the girls do as part of winter house cleaning.  If you find the mice chewing on the entrance reducer you can wrap it in wire mesh.  Here is an easy step by step guide to making a mouse guard from Brooksfield Farm just south of us near Mt. Baker.

Difficult house cleaning

Wire mesh mouse proof entrance reducer

      

     For more information on wintering your colonies check out the recorded webinars by Kim Flottum, "Getting your hives ready for winter" or "Putting the hive to bed for winter".  You may also want to check out The Biology and Management of Colonies in Winter , Winterization Guide for Beekeeping , The Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies or Wrapping a Honey Bee Colony with Tar Paper  from the "Winter Management" section of our Beekeepers' Library.  Good luck to you and your bees and stay dry.