Basic Beekeeping
-  Beekeeping Books 
  
-  Children's Books
-  Beekeeping Video Series
-  Online Education
-  Regional 
-  Bee Biology 
-  Basic Beekeeping Information
-  Hive Inspection
-  Splits, Nucs and Packages
-  Swarms
-  Feeding
-  Winter Management
-  Beehive Construction 














Getting Started


Beekeeping in Northern Climates
This beekeeping manual accompanies an online course from the University of Minnesota Bee Lab.  "Interested in becoming a beekeeper? Dr. Marla Spivak, Dr. Katie Lee and Gary Reuter from the University of Minnesota Bee Lab will help you get started in beekeeping. If you have no prior experience keeping bees in our cold climate, Beekeeping in Northern Climates will teach you everything you need to know. The course modules cover honey bee biology, management, successful wintering of colonies, managing diseases and pests and so much more. If your goal is to keep your bees alive and healthy year after year, this engaging course is for you.  This online class is over 12 hours of recorded instruction divided into modules. You will be able to work through the course material in modules entirely at your own pace and schedule. There are optional live Q&A sessions with the Bee Squad that you can choose to attend on the first Tuesday of each month at 6pm CT. There is also ample opportunity to ask questions in the discussion forums. You will have access to the materials for two years to allow you to review any module over two beekeeping seasons. Two manuals accompany the class: Beekeeping in Northern Climates and Honey Bee Diseases and Pests. The manuals can be downloaded for free either in the course itself or from our manual page. If you wish to donate see our Giving page."  A worthy cause to support.   To register for the course.  The Beekeeping in Northern Climates video series is also very useful.  




Backyard Beekeeping (James E. Tew)  This book by Dr. James Tew is a good overview of the basic steps to acquiring and management of a bee colony for the beginner beekeeper.  Some of the things that are covered are the cost, races of honey bees, bee life cycle, hive design, equipment, swarms, hive site, seasonal management, pesticides, diseases and harvesting of honey and wax.  "Nearly anyone can keep a hive or two of honey bees. The majority of beekeepers are hobbyists, who keep bees just for pleasure. Men, women, teens, or young children, to some extent, can all be beekeepers.  Gardeners, retirees, professionals, teachers, physicians, construction workers, airline pilots, and lawyers are among the types of diversified occupations enjoying beekeeping. A sideline beekeeping hobby can earn extra income if colonies are managed efficiently. Even if you do not have a place to put a few colonies, most people can find a friendly farmer or landowner on whose land to place colonies. If you enjoy biology, outdoor activities, woodworking, gardening,
animal care, or if you are just looking for a sideline income, beekeeping will probably interest you."


Beekeeping Basics  This Penn State University publication provides a fairly comprehensive and detailed book for the backyard beekeeper.  "This manual is all about beekeeping—understanding honey bee biology, getting started, managing bee colonies for fun and/or profit and is designed to help you become a successful beekeeper. Welcome to the world of beekeeping."  It covers topics like bee castes, beekeeping equipment, clothing, packages and nucs, apiary location, seasonal management, diseases and pests, honey production and processing, rendering bees wax and pollen trapping ... A very good resource for the beginning beekeeper.  "This manual is all about beekeeping—understanding honey bee biology, getting started, managing bee colonies for fun and/or profit—and is designed to help you become a successful beekeeper.  Welcome to the world of beekeeping."













Handbook on Beekeeping: (Europe) A good, complete guide to sustainable beekeeping from the European Union Bees project.  "BEES is a Transfer of Innovation project aiming at further developing a module from the Leonardo da Vinci ENSA project on organic and biodynamic agriculture education. The main objective of the project is to create completely updated teaching materials on bee behaviours and relevant importance as indicators of agriculture sustainability. Biodiversity is directly linked to this approach. The main targets of the handbook are farmers' associations, environmental associations, agriculture professional schools, agriculture and veterinary medicine universities, bee keepers associations, policy makers, institutions at European, national and local level, elementary and secondary schools."





Australian Beekeeping Guide  A great beginner's guide to beekeeping from the Australian government.  It covers everything from bee castes and life-cycle to seasonal management, diseases and pests.  "This book provides basic information to assist beginner and sideline beekeepers. It draws on the knowledge and experience of apiculture scientists, various state and territory apiary inspectors and apiary officers, and most importantly, the many beekeepers who enjoy keeping bees."  It covers most everything except treatment of varroa mites which are not present in Australia.






A Guide for Beekeepers by the Honey Bee Health Coalition
Every beekeeper should seek to have hives that are healthy and productive. Today, the many threats to honey bee health — including parasites, pests, disease, pesticides, and inadequate nutrition — make achieving this goal a major challenge. Successful beekeeping means closely monitoring bee health and taking proactive steps to protect them.
     Over the years, a wide range of public and private organizations have developed Best Management Practices (BMPs) for the honey bee industry. Important work has been done by state governments, crop and grower organizations, universities (particularly extension services), state beekeeping organizations and other stakeholders. This guide collects BMPs from many sources into one document to make it easy for beekeepers to find practical information that they can use. Experts from within and outside the Honey Bee Health Coalition, including entomologists, small-scale and commercial beekeepers, apiary inspectors and commercial bee suppliers, have reviewed the BMPs in this guide to make sure that they are accurate and consistent with the latest research findings.
Whether you are just starting out as a beekeeper or have years of experience, you’ll find that this guide offers valuable BMPs on many topics, including:
Safety
Apiary and hive set up and maintenance
Pesticide exposure
Treatment of parasites and bee diseases
Queen health, bee breeding and stock selection
Bee nutrition




Written by Eric Mader, Pollinator Outreach Coordinator,
The Xerces Society Pollinator Conservation Program.
Marla Spivak, Professor of Entomology, University of Minnesota and Elaine Evans, Author of Befriending Bumble Bees.
"This book cound not have come at a better time.  We
stand at a crossroads, where honey bee losses and
rental rates for pollination are on the rise, research is
expanding our knowledge of native bees’ role in crop
pollination, and growers are looking for pollination
alternatives to improve crop security. Herein lies the
heart of this book: It is a technical resource that brings
together the latest advances in native and introduced
bee management with a big-picture perspective on
how to manage a farm for these pollinators’ greatest
success. In the coming years, honey bees will continue to
be critically important for production agriculture. To
improve the sustainability and security of farming in
the United States, however, it is important for grow-
ers to diversify the pollinators upon which they rely. It
also might be time for beekeepers to diversify their own operations and expand their management to native bees. This book provides the necessary tools for growers, beekeepers, and other agricultural professionals to do just that. Perhaps the silver lining of Colony Collapse Disorder is its wake-up call to invest time, research, and energy into new managed pollinators and new ways of looking at farm management for the betterment of all pollinators. We are being asked to picture a future in agriculture where even the most intensively managed almond orchards, cranberry bogs, and squash fields make room for flowering plants that complement blooming crops and have strategically placed hives of honey bees, tubes of leafcutters, boxes of bumble bees, and natural habitat that provides a home for wild native bees."





Starting Beekeeping in Ireland by Thomas Carroll
"This book is as much a guide to sources of additional information as it is a how to beekeeping guide. There is a lot of bee related information available and I have compiled an impressive list of
sources of additional information from an Irish centric perspective.  Why did I write this eBook? The need for this book came to me when I searched for as simple and straightforward text on how to start beekeeping in Ireland.  I was restarting my beekeeping here in 2015.  I wanted a plain and straight to the point book which was up to date and appropriate in the Irish context. I wanted a book at a sensible price which was available in electronic format (an eBook) which I could easily and quickly download and start reading.  I could not find or easily access a suitable publication to assist me and therefore decided to write the book my self to assist others who may be trying to start beekeeping...  I have spent over two years researching and writing this eBook. I hope that you find it useful and helpful.  I would be delighted to hear from you and to get your feedback."  Tom Carroll PHD, Killenure Nursery, Ballybrittas, Co Laois. Website -  Apiconsult






Beekeeping in California   "This publication describes the fundamentals of keeping bees in California (1987) and discusses the differences between commercial and non commercial approaches.  Persons considering keeping bees can learn through self education and experience. Classes and short courses in beekeeping are also helpful, and many good books and other literature are available (see References). However, no amount of reading can substitute for actual experience with colonies. Local beekeeping clubs often willingly share information, and many will show beginners how to manage a colony and what to expect through the year."












Canadian Best Management Practices for Honey Bee Health (Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada) - "Best Management Practices (BMPs) for the honey bee industry are developed by different levels and divisions of government, various organizations, institutions and stakeholders. Content ranging from regulations for pest and disease treatment thresholds to management of colonies during pollination services are included. While in many cases these recommendations are readily available, their authors are varied and the publications are provided by diverse sources. Some recommendations will apply to the Canadian nation as a whole, while others will only relate to specific areas of the country. The BMPs discussed in this document refer to those that pertain to honey bee health. Traceability aspects like food safety, beekeeper safety and environmental safety are not included within this BMP document."






4 H Beekeeping Manuals  The 4-H  Beekeeping  Project  from Purdue University is  divided  into  three  divisions.  Division  I,  Understanding  the  Honey  Bee, covers information on the basic facts of beekeeping: the types of bees, the honey and wax they produce, the plants that attract bees, and the equipment a beekeeper needs. In the first year, youth are not required to have any bees, but prepare to take care of a honey bee colony of their own. In Division II, Working with Honey Bees, youth acquire a colony of bees and learn how to care for their beehive throughout the year. This will include basic beekeeping operations that result in the production of extracted, chunk, or cut comb honey. When the youth are experienced and knowledgeable in the basic care of a beehive, they should move on to Division III, Advanced Beekeeping Methods. The advanced topics include: increasing the number of your honey bee colonies, increasing honey production, producing special kinds of honey, learning more about the bee societies, and how to manage honey bee diseases and parasites.  This is a good resource for beginning beekeepers of all ages.  In addition here is a 4H Basic Beekeeping Manual from Malcolm Sanford (University of Florida) and from the Virginia Cooperative Extension 4H Honey Bee Youth Project Book 1 and 2 .



4 H Beekeeping Manual  A good beginner beekeeper manual written by Brian Rowe of the 4 H organization that covers everything from hive components, types of bees, first year and seasonal management, honey, wax and diseases and pests.  "Welcome to beekeeping.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.  The bees have been good to me, and I hope they will do the same for you." Brian Rowe.






The Basics of Beekeeping  (Scotland) This is a good introductory Beekeeping guide written by M.M. Peterson on behalf of the Dunblane and Stirling Districts Beekeepers' Association in Scotland.  The topics discussed include bee biology, beekeeping equipment, handling bees, swarm control, diseases and pests and harvesting.   










At the Hive Entrance  This useful German handbook written by Prof. Storch in 1985 (pre varroa) explains the value of being able to calculate a hive health by observing the outside of the hive.  "All year round it is through this little opening that the life of a colony pulses. Here it breathes and rejects all that it will not tolerate in its domain. Here it transmits its meaningful message for the person who can understand it. Here the colony's behaviour informs the beekeeper of its problems and state of health, and lets him know whether it needs his help. A keeper who can tell the condition of his bees by observing the hive entrance does not need to open his hives and disturb the bees' sanctuary, the brood nest. This never produces good results.  A healthy colony must have peace if it is to perform its productive role. On principle a visit should only be made once the keeper has determined at the hive entrance that something is not in order. It is not always easy to know what is happening inside the hive by observing the hive entrance and this is only learnt after many years, especially when the keeper is alone and there is no-one to give advice.  





Beekeeping in the United States  This beekeeping handbook from the U.S. Department of Agriculture provides readers with a better understanding of beekeeping in the United States from a l980 perspective (pre Varroa). Some topics discussed are the life history of the honey bee; bee behavior; breeding and genetics of honey bees; queens, packaged bees, and nuclei; managing colonies for high honey yield and crop pollination; dis- eases and pests of honey bees; and effects of pesticides on honey bee mortality. The handbook also lists beekeeping organizations and some statistics on bees and honey. Martin, E. C, E. Oertel, N. P. Nye, and others. 1980. Beekeeping in the United States. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agriculture Handbook. 





Beekeeping for All by Abbe Warre L'Abbé Eloi François Émile Warré was born on 9 March 1867 at Grébault-Mesnil in the Somme département. He was ordained a priest on 19 September 1891 -- Amiens diocese -- and became the parish priest of Mérélessart (Somme) in 1897 then of Martainneville (Somme) in 1904. He disappeared from the records in 1916 subsequently to reappear at Saint-Symphorien (Indre-et-Loire) to devote himself exclusively to beekeeping. He died at Tours on 20 April 1951. Abbé Warré developed The People's Hive based on his studies of 350 hives of different systems that existed at his time as well as of the natural habits of the bee. To publish his findings, he wrote several books: La santé ou les Meilleurs traitements de toutes les maladies (Health or better treatments for all illnesses), Le Miel, ses propriétés et ses usages (Honey its properties and applications), La Santé, manuel-guide des malades et des bien-portants (Health, a manual for the ill and the well) --1912 -- and by far the most important L'Apiculture pour Tous (Beekeeping for All) whose twelfth and last edition is dated 1948.
Basic Beekeeping Manual  (Africa) This is a 2 volume publication written by Pam Gregory with assistance of Gay Marris of the U.K. National Bee Unit (FERA) that concentrates on top bar hive beekeeping, but many of the techniques and ideas can also be used by traditional and frame hive beekeepers.  "This field manual is designed for use by field-based trainers in sub Saharan Africa. It is based on colour pictures with few words. The manual covers basic techniques needed to start a beekeeping business. It also offers some new ideas to help beekeepers to become independent by making their own equipment from local materials. I hope that this will help people to start beekeeping at an affordable cost, and maybe to experiment with new materials. The pictures show some of the many different ways that people keep bees. This is intended to promote discussion and shared experiences to help people to solve problems locally. The manual concentrates on top bar hive beekeeping but many of the techniques and ideas can also be used by traditional and frame hive beekeepers."   The Advanced Beekeeping Manual covers more advanced management techniques and problem solving and offers some ideas about how to tackle them.  The Swahili language version of this manual.





A Beginner's Guide to Beekeeping in Kenya by Thomas Carroll, Msc. (Agr.)
"This book was written to assist beekeepers in Kenya and other African countries improve their beekeeping.  It is written in simple language and is intended to be as practical as possible." Thomas Carroll.  Reader's feedback on the guide. “It is a wonderful and easily understandable introduction to beekeeping with all the important tips and advice……….it is by far the most informative book (about Kenyan beekeeping)”.  From  the Organic Farmer Magazine, Nairobi, Congratulations for your Beekeeping Guide that is very interesting, complete and useful not only for the Scutellata beekeepers but for the Adansonii ones in Central and West Africa where the problems are similar”.





Tropical and Sub-tropical Apiculture  The book brings out the enormous untapped potential for the development of a dynamic apiculture industry in the developing countries. Most countries in these regions are blessed with abundant sunshine, and a rich flora which blooms all the year round. An integrated consideration of the problems and potential of the apiculture industry in the tropics and sub- tropics will therefore help in identifying the constraints responsible for the gap between potential and actual honey production. At the same time, it will help to monitor and regulate the movement ofbees and associated pathogens from temperate into tropical areas, where beekeeping is especially vulnerable to setbacks caused by new diseases. We urgently need a mechanism for disease monitoring, and for organizing an early warning system with reference to the spread of new pests and pathogens. Information on marketing opportunities will also be necessary for countries that are substantially increasing their apicultural production.  Much of this book has been written by scientists who are authorities in their respective fields. The book, therefore, serves as an encyclopedia of information relating to the various aspects of apiculture.



The National Beekeeping Training Extension Manual  (Uganda) This beekeeping training guide produced by the Ugandan Ministry of Agriculture is a manual that others in tropical and subtropical areas may find useful.  "Over the years, several stakeholders including Government Ministries, Departments and Agencies have been carrying out training of farmers in their own ways without standard guide and uniformity.  Some of the guides/manuals used by the stakeholders are substandard. This practice has for long undermined efforts to increase production and enforce compliance to standards.  This manual has therefore been developed to provide the basic standards for training beekeepers all over Uganda."





This practical guide to Beekeeping in Africa is one volume in the programme of publications on apiculture in the Third World initiated early in 1986 by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Previous volumes include Tropical and sub-tropical apiculture; Honeybee mites and their control: A selected annotated bibliography; Honey and beeswax control; Beekeeping in Asia, Honeybee diseases and enemies In Asia: A practical guide; and Beekeeping in Latin America. It is hoped that other topical works will follow.  The present practical guide was written by Mr. Stephen O. Adjare, Research Fellow in charge of the Apiculture Promotion Unit of the Technology Consultancy Centre, University of Science and Technology, Kumasi, Ghana. While it draws on a wealth of information based on the experience of beekeepers around the world, and especially in the United States, it focuses on those problems, opportunities and resources which are peculiar to Africa. It stresses the potential that beekeeping offers to agriculture, rural development, nutrition and income generation in the continent, and the ways in which individual, small-scale and commercial beekeepers can improve the productivity of their hives. The use of local technology and materials, as well as the particular characteristics of the African honeybee, are treated in detail.
    




Apiculture in Sub-Saharan Africa (A manual for trainers)  This manual focuses on modern beekeeping in Sub-Saharan Africa. It attempts to upgrade and refine the knowledge of trainers/field workers within government departments or organizations/NGOs on the correct use of modern beekeeping techniques. The final aim is that competent services will be provided to farmers/beekeepers and appropriate transfer of know-how will be accomplished to the same. It is hoped that this will contribute to the creation of a new generation of beekeepers in the Region.




Small Scale Beekeeping (The Peace Corps) As part of the United States “whole of government” effrt to address food security in the developing world, the Peace Corps has edited and revised several existing technical manuals designed for use by Volunteers. Most of these materials were created in the late 1970s and early 1980s and were written by a number of diffrent subject-matter experts employed or contracted by the Peace Corps. They have been revised with funding provided to the Peace Corps by the U.S. Agency for International Development’s (USAID) Bureau of Food Security under a food security agreement, known as “Feed the Future.”  The Small-Scale Beekeeping manual is written as a guide for Volunteers who are getting started with small-scale beekeeping projects. The intention is to provide an overview of beekeeping and its possibilities as a tool for development. The manual focuses on “intermediate levels” of beekeeping that can be self-sustaining, using only local resources.




A Manual for Trainers of Small-Scale Beekeeping Development Workers (The Peace Corps)   A Manual for Trainers of Small-scale Beekeeping Development Workers [T0029] is useful for Volunteers and staff for training purposes. The content is adaptable to pre-service and inservice training events. It is also valuable to Volunteers interested in training community members. The training is designed to help participants develop the skills they will need to work and live as beekeeping extensionists.  The emphasis of this training is on equipping future Volunteers, counterparts, and community members with the skills necessary to promote appropriate beekeeping development. This is a creative process that requires individuals to take an active role in identifying their own needs and finding appropriate and sustainable ways to meet them. The sessions outlined in this manual cover a range of skills needed to establish beekeeping projects. The approach to training used in this manual is based on the principles of non formal education and is designed to strike a balance between structured learning and independent discovery. By using the sessions, resources, and methods outlined here, participants will develop a working knowledge of beekeeping, as well as skills for applying that knowledge in a meaningful way.


Beekeeping Training for Farmers in the Hymalayas  This manual produced by the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development covers the full range of basic topics related to beekeeping development, including the importance of beekeeping in modern agriculture and the use of bees for crop pollination; production of honey, wax and other hive products; honey quality standards; and using value chain and market management to increase the benefits accruing to beekeepers. The focus is on participatory hands-on training, with issues explained in simple language with many illustrations. The manual was prepared to meet formal training needs in Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, and Nepal, but it is suitable for use in ICIMOD's other member countries as well - Afghanistan, China, Myanmar, and Pakistan.





Beekeeping in Asia by Pongthep Akratanakul (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) - "In a continent as vast as Asia, differences in climate, levels of agricultural development, and bee races are so variable that no one book can cover all beekeeping situations. The author of this study draws heavily on his experiences with European honeybees introduced into northern Thailand, but he also discusses the principal features of beekeeping activities in the other zonal and socio-cultural contexts in Asia at different stages of development.  Both the experienced beekeeper and the novice will find a mine of useful information, guidance and suggestions in the publication and it is for this reason that FAO hopes that it will be a useful contribution to the economic development of the most populous continent in the world."






Bees and their Role in Forest Livelihoods by Nicola Bradbear (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) - "The role of bees in sustaining forests and forest dependent livelihoods remains poorly known and appreciated. Bees are a fantastic world resource: they are essential for sustaining our environment because they pollinate flowering plants. Bees sustain our agriculture by pollinating crops and thereby increasing yields of seeds and fruits.  Today, apiculture plays a valuable part in rural livelihoods worldwide, and this book aims to provide an insight into the many ways in which bees and beekeeping contribute to these livelihoods, and how to strengthen this contribution. While the rationale for the sustainable use of tree resources is widely appreciated, by contrast the sustainable use of bee resources is poorly promoted and appreciated. Rural people in every developing country are keeping bees or harvesting from them in one way or another.  This book aims to help ensure that these people gain the most from these activities."






A Beekeeping Guide  - A good beginners guide written by Harlan Attfield of VITA for beekeeping in the tropics and subtropics.  "This guide provides an overview of beekeeping in the tropics and subtropics.  It explains hive management techniques and offers insight into the life of the common honey bee, Apis Mellifera and the Asian Honey Bee, Apis Cerana.  There are many races of these two honey bees and they often require very specific techniques and equipment to hive them successfully."




Beekeeping in the Tropics   - A beginners beekeeping guide written by P. Segeren and published by Agrodok.  "You can keep bees as an interesting hobby, or as a main or an extra source of income. This booklet  mainly provides information on how to work with honey-bees that nest in cavities. In most of the world regions this will be the European bee Apis mellifera, but in large parts of (sub)tropical Asia the quite similar species A.cerana is mainly used. Although the composition of a honey-bee colony is basically the same all over the world, the management of bees must be adapted to the species and race, the climate and the vegetation." 





Beekeeping in India    Beekeeping has been practiced in Indian since time immemorial.  The earliest mention of it is in the Vedas and the Ramayana.  Success in beekeeping is largely a question of the proper understanding of the biology and behaviour of the honey bees and their proper management including knowledge of their diseases and enemies and the latest equipment for handling them.  This book is intended to serve as a handy reference and guide for students of agriculture, extension workers and all those who are interested in beekeeping either as a hobby or profession. 

Honeybees and Their Management in India by R.C. Mishra (Indian Council of Agricultural Research) - "The beekeeping practices for domesticated Indian honeybee, Apis cerana indica F. were adopted from the west with suitable modifications suiting to Indian honeybee. There is need to undertake intensive research for therefinement of management practices for improved honey yield and efficient pollination of crops. Production of other valuable hive products like royal jelly, beeswax and bee venom needs commercialization. There is a great diversity in regional agroclimatic conditions and flora. Therefore, for taking up beekeeping, there is a need to carry out some careful studies to explore the potential of each area.  This is an attempt to present a world-wide picture of beekeeping, suitable for practical and class-room reference. The book is mainly focussed on Indian literature, though the contents also draw from the knowledge accumulated in more advanced countries. It is a comprehensive account on different aspects of beekeeping, and students, teachers and scientists will profit by studying it. I am sure, the book will generate awareness and catalyse action towards a more effective exploitation of honeybees for honey and other bee products as also for crop production through bee pollination."





This is a beginners beekeeping guide to beekeeping in the Central Western Ghats part of India which includes the keeping of  Apis Cerana, Apis Florea, Apis Dorsata and the stingless Trigona.  "Beekeeping is a forest and agro-based industry, which is beyond the ordinary realms of industry,in the sense that the humans derive benefits from interaction between two living things like plants and bees without affecting adversely both. On the contrary plants, including many crops,prosper with the abundance of bees (as pollinating agents) and the bees, sheltered both by nature and humans provide mainly honey and other by-products like beeswax, bee-pollen, propolis and royal jelly. Bee-keeping, systematically adopted as a supplement to farming, can bring prosperity to the villages of Uttara Kannada, a district endowed with species rich forests and cultivation of a high diversity crops. Unlike intensive farming or fishing that can corrode the natural resource base, abundance of honey bees in a natural environment benefits both crops and wild plants."





"Beekeeping has been a traditional household activity in Sikkim for centuries. Rural communities
throughout the state have adopted this activity as substantial part of their sustainable livelihoods. In
addition to providing income and honey, beekeeping supports other products and services such as wax, pollen, medicine and, of particular importance, pollination. The entire state of Sikkim represents an ideal situation to develop beekeeping as an important component of integrated development and sustainable livelihoods. The various bio physical conditions, such as varied natural heritage of rural communities make it an ideal activity for enterprise development.  This beekeeping handbook has been compiled from various sources to provides a tool to farmers, governments, NGOs, universities, vocational training institutes, private sector organizations and individual beekeepers in the North Eastern Region to initiate and manage beekeeping activities, as well as facilitate the training of other farmers. It includes a wealth of information on a full range of topics related to beekeeping development. I am confident that the handbook will be one of the important resource materials for beekeeping development in Sikkim." Dr. Peter Gross





Rafter Beekeeping  Sustainable management with Apis Dorsata training manual.  The following document is intended to serve as a training manual and has been developed on the basis of related literature and the personal observations of the author. It aims to provide the essential requirements for the implementation of rafter beekeeping and presents guidelines for rafter construction and management as a means of sustainable harvesting. Nevertheless, it should not be considered as a substitute for practical training by an experienced rafter beekeeper, at least in the first stages of implementation. As is the case for any beekeeping activity, experience is a key factor for success. Eric Guerin, Beekeeping consultant Eric.guerin68@gmail.com





Beekeeping in the Phillipines (University of the Phillipines)
The Ancestral Domain and Natural Resource Management in Sagada, Mountain Province, Northern Philippines is an action research program of the Cordillera Studies Center, University of the Philippines College Baguio.  In line with the Program’s objective “to test sustainable and equitable community-based natural resource management systems,” beekeeping was introduced to the
community. Today, there is a cooperative of beekeepers in Sagada that seeks to encourage individuals to take up beekeeping.  This Kit covers the following aspects of beekeeping, including discussions
particular to Cordillera conditions, in four sections, as follows:
Section 1: An Introduction to Beekeeping
Section 2: The Bee Farm
Section 3: Operation and Maintenance of the Bee Farm
Section 4: Pests and Diseases of Honeybees





Beekeeper's Manual (Belize) - Management and Caring of Africanized Bees for the Production of Honey In the Vaca Forest Reserve in Belize.  The primary aim of this Beekeeper’s Manual is to provide information to beekeepers on the integrated management of Africanized Bees. The manual describes the basic management of beekeeping from the formation of a new nucleus to the extraction and marketing of honey.  Beekeepers in Belize should not only think that the only product in beekeeping ishoney. Pollen, propolis, wax, royal jelly and venom, the queen, the beehives and the apicultural materials are other products that capture a good market price.  This manual takes into consideration climatic changes experienced over the past 5 years and the response of bees to this factor.













Classic Beekeeping Books



The Hive and the Honey-Bee (Langstroth) - This Treatise on the Hive and the Honey-Bee
is respectfully submitted by the Author, to the candid consideration of those who are interested in the culture of the most useful as well as wonderful Insect,in all the range of Animated Nature. The information which it contains will be found to be greatly in advance of anything which has yet been presented to the English Reader; and, as far as facilities for practical management are concerned, it is believed to be a very material advance over anything which has hitherto been communicated to the Apiarian Public.  Debarred, by the state of his health, from the more appropriate duties of his Office, and compelled to seek an employment which would call him, as much as possible, into the open air, the Author indulges the hope that the result of his studies and observations, in an important branch of Natural History, will be found of service to the Community as well as to himself. The satisfaction which he has taken in his researches has been such that he has felt exceedingly desirous of interesting others, in a pursuit which, (without any reference to its pecuniary profits,) is capable of exciting the delight and enthusiasm of all intelligent observers.


* A few great sources of classical books are Cornell University's "The Hive the Honey Bee Collection",  Michael Bush's classic bee book collection and  The Biodiversity Heritage Library.




The Travelling Beehive - Children's  - "The Travelling Beehive" is an amazing book for children of all ages.  I highly recommend it for every beekeeper, their children and grandchildren.  This book is wonderfully written by Elena Garcia and Manuel Angel Rosado and beautifully illustrated by Juan Hernaz (Picture books by Juan Hernaz).  It is published by Apolo which is an organization dedicated to the preservation of pollinators and their habitat.  You can follow Polli the honey bee and her friend Dipter the hover fly as they face the challenges of a disappearing green space. They are joined in their struggle by Bazumba the wild bee, Missus Bombus the bumblebee, Lepi the butterfly, her majesty the queen, Dorian the farmer and Ramon the beekeeper. Sit back and enjoy the The Travelling Beehive .


For more children's bee activities and learning go to the Education section of this Library.



Beekeeping Video Series

A Web-Based Introductory Beekeeping Training Program  This online beekeeping program from the Ohio State Beekeepers' Association consists of 34 videos and 3 powerpoints and is made to accompany the book "Backyard Beekeeping" (above).  Some of the video segments include assembling your hive and frames, branding, lighting a smoker, seasonal management, cross combing, evaluating a queen, package bees, swarms, laying workers, diseases and pests, moving hives, feeders and overwintering your colonies.  This combination of information is a great starting point for the beginning beekeeper.


Honey Bees and Beekeeping: A Year in the Life of an Apiary  This is a very useful 7 part, 25 video beekeeper series presented by Dr. Keith Delaplane of the University of Georgia and covers a wide range of topics like assembly and placement of hives, installing bees, bee biology, diseases and pests, seasonal management, harvesting and overwintering.  It was created in l993 so does not include treatment for newer issues like Small Hive Beetle or Africanized bees.

2.1  Bee biology and equipment (7:38 mins)
2.3  Releasing queens (6:43 mins)
2.4  Releasing queens and stings (7:05 mins)
3.2  The brood nest (5 mins)
3.3  Our growing hives (5:49 mins)
3.4  Migrating our hives (9:18 mins)
4.1  Requeening (8 mins)
4.2  Queen Rearing (9:44 mins)
5.1  Diseases and Pests (8:52 mins)
6.2  Extracting honey (7:36 mins)
6.3  Packaging and selling honey (6:11 mins)
6.4  Commercial honey processing (6:32 mins)
7.1  Overwintering hives (6:06 mins)
7.4 Fall Management (4 mins)



The University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre's  online beekeeping series is a great collection of 50 videos that cover beginner topics like hive location and setup, hive equipment, protective clothing, smoke use, stinging, comb building, inspections, colony management, pests and diseases to more advanced topics like making nucs, queen rearing and indoor overwintering.  The University of Guelph is in the city of Guelph, Ontario, Canada so although much of the information is universal it is written from a northern perspective.  You can access all of the videos from this University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre's video list



Beekeeping in Northern Climate Video Series from the University of Minnesota.  This is a very useful collection of videos particularly for the northern, cold weather beekeeper.  "The following videos were produced by the University of Minnesota’s Department of Entomology Bee Lab and UMN Extension. Starring lead UMN Bee Lab apiculture technician, Gary Reuter, they are intended to be instructive and entertaining vignettes on a variety of beekeeping topics. Each video covers a single topic, and you do not have to watch them in any special order. In their entirety, they are a lesson on how to keep bees in cold climates such as Minnesota. Videos produced by Deacon Warner: dwarner@myfilmnorth.org"



Stewart Spinks of the Norfolk Honey Company in the UK has produced and is continuing to produce an exhaustive series of over 200 videos that cover pretty much every topic you may encounter from your initial setup (hive construction, painting, installing bees, inspecting, diseases and parasites.....) to catching swarms, shook swarms, queen rearing, overwintering, poly hives etc...  "Here you will find resources to help you get started in beekeeping, learn the basic essentials for a successful first year. Gain help and advice to take you through into your second year and beyond."  You can access all of the videos from the Norfolk Honey Company youtube channel







Hiveworld out of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada offers a large library of instructive videos based on season.  "We've arranged our video gallery by seasons because we think that's the most logical way to do it! But note that our most recent Meet the Beekeeper sessions get their own section because they're so popular.  Pretty well all of the YouTube videos we've produced can be viewed here.  Tip: Once you've started running a video you can make it go full-screen by either clicking the four square corners icon in the bottom right corner of the video box, or pressing 'F' on your keyboard. Use the same controls to shrink it back down when done.  We always get asked by new beekeepers, "Why do I need to split my hive?" Here Barry talks about why you need to do a split and few other options for those who don't want to make a split..." 

Beekeeping Video Resources

B.C. Honey Producers Education Day Videos and Slides  This is a large library of videos and slides covering every subject from overwintering 4 frame nucs to evaluating honey flavour.
Brushy Mt Bee Farm has a very large collection of educational videos on pretty much every topic of beekeeping. 
North Carolina State Apiculture has produced an informative selction of videos. 
Honey Bee Honey has a good selection of videos on a wide variety of topics like spring management, hive inspection and fall preparation for winter. 
The folks at GardenFork have produced a series entitled Beekeeping 101 which covers a wide variety of subjects any new beekeepers should know. 
A good collection of videos from David Burns at Long Lane Honey Bee Farms.
A selection of videos from the legendary Don the Fat Bee Man.
Informative videos frm Devan Rawn.
 




Free Online Beekeeping Course  "Honey Bees and Colony Strength Evaluation" (You can log in as a guest)  Recommended for beekeepers, inspectors and farmers hiring bee pollinators.  This online course from the University of California is useful for all beekeepers from the beginner to the professional.  "The objective in developing this course was to provide easily accessible information to improve the understanding of basic honey bee biology, recommended colony strength evaluation practices, and recognition of important diseases, pests, and parasites that impact honey bees. The course consists of individual modules that provide background information on honey bees as well as clear, consistent recommendations for apiary inspection. Individuals can take advantage of the training at their convenience. The modular approach requires short blocks of time for each section and the viewer can proceed at their own pace viewing modules in any order they wish. Modules covering basic information may not be necessary for more experienced beekeepers or apiary inspectors. However, for those less familiar with the process, training modules can be re-visited as necessary. The existing information will be updated when appropriate and additional topics may be added in the future. Within each module, there are short quizzes to test for understanding. A series of skills practice sets is also included in this online training to improve your understanding of brood, frame, and cluster count evaluation. Nothing can replace actual hands-on experience, so this course should be considered as an overview of the colony strength evaluation process with the aim to improve consistency of inspections."  This course comes with a workbook that you can view or download, Honey Bee Colony Assessment Workbook .




First Year Beekeeping is presented by biologist, Randy Oliver on his website Scientific Beekeeping which is one of the best sources of beekeeping information available.  "I’ve attempted to distill 50 year’s of beekeeping experience into a short set of instructions for starting out with bees in the Sierra Foothills.  This page provides some quick step-by-step notes for your first year of beekeeping, written specifically for those starting with a nucleus hive or package bees purchased from me, but generally applicable.  Since the vast majority of colony failures are due to lack of varroa management, I’ve covered this subject more extensively.  For a summary of treatment options, scroll to the end (Randy Johnson)."  As mentioned this website contains a wealth of regularly updated information on most beekeeping subjects.



     


Ohio State University has created a free honey bee biology and beekeeping course based on Dr. Reed Johnson's for-credit OSU Beekeeping Course.  The free course consists of video lectures, handouts and readings presented on iTunes which is a free download.  Unfortunately it's only available to those with apple devices which means most people can not access it. The course is in the testing phase, is extensive and consists of 138 segments covering every aspect of bees and beekeeping including: Packages and Nucs; Package Installation; Pheremones; Mites; Swarming; Vitellogenin; Queen rearing and development; Foraging; Planting; Pesticides; Phenology; Nest Architecture; Honey Extraction; IPM; Honey Flow; Honey Laundering; Commercial Pollination; Drone Congregation; Dance Language; Feeding and Wintering; Honey Crystalization; Apiary Sites; Nutrition; Pests and Diseases; Broodmapper; Bee Races; and Bee Biology.  O.S.U. is asking for volunteer beekeepers to review the course and offer suggestions.  The only suggestions I would give of this great course are that a few of the videos are repeated and that they be presented in order of learning.  To access this course and assist in it's development go to "Beekeeping and Honey Bee Biology on iTunes. 





The University of California Cooperative Extension-San Diego County has developed this self-paced online training course for beginning beekeepers and as a refresher annual training for experienced beekeepers with hives located in unincorporated areas of San Diego County.  The course consists of three modules and a 10-question quiz survey, which may be taken separately. The entire course is approximately 30 minutes long.  To begin the course, click the button below and wait a moment for the course to load in your Internet browser. If you are using Internet Explorer®, use the 'Direct Links,' below. Once started, you will be able to move through the training using the forward or back arrows located at the bottom left and right of your screen. You may also move back and forth through the course using the slide navigation panel on the left. Note, module 2 includes videos. Depending on your Internet connection, you may need to wait a few moments for each video to load on-screen.
At the end of the training, you will be provided a link to the quiz survey. You may also access the quiz, directly, by clicking the button or direct link below. To begin the survey, you will be required to enter your first and last names and email address. Your information and quiz results will be recorded.1 A summary of your quiz results will be provided at the end. To keep a copy of your quiz results for your own records, you may print using your computer's print-screen function.


The BeeMD is a diagnostic tool to help beekeepers identify honey bee health issues. The BeeMD will be used in multiple modalities including computers and handheld devices such as tablets and smart phones. The information on The BeeMD will be continually evolving and updated as science and technology add new information to the ability to diagnose and understand hive health.  The BeeMD originated as a project of the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign (NAPPC) with funding from the USDA APHIS, the Rust Foundation, the Pollinator Partnership and the University of Delaware. The founding team included the University of Maryland, Jamie Ellis from The University of Florida, the American Beekeeping Federation, and the Pollinator Partnership.  The BeeMD welcomes comments and photographs to expand the effectiveness of this free service.


Begin at the Beeginning: 
This is an introductory beekeeping course from  master beekeeper Janet Wilson which includes everything from hive components and acquiring bees to seasonal management, diseases and pests. It is written from a northwest perspective (West coast Vancouver, Coastal Washington State). It's a fairly complete beginners course with links to expert resources (i.e. Randy Oliver).  "Week by week we will explore together the canon of knowledge which is Beginning Beekeeping. We will both cover the usual course outline for beginning beeks, and chat about what we are finding in our hives, and in the beeyard, at this time of year (we are beginning in mid July in the Pacific Northwest, in an unprecedentedly dry and sunny summer).  The main focus of our learnings will be giving you tools to prevent colony loss.  Upwards of 80% of new beekeepers quit beekeeping in under three years, likely out of frustration when their bees keep dying. Bees are precious, and expensive. So we will emphasize what it takes to keep bees alive, using lots of web content and resources."


Beginner Beekeeping Course:   

This is a beginner beekeeping course from Amazing Bees in Australia which includes bee biology, rules, regulations and registration, hive inspection, honey extraction, swarming, queen replacement, winter prep and feeding.  It covers most everything a new beekeeper in Australia needs to know.






Jamie Ellis' Field Guide to Beekeeping
(use the above link for all 41 issues in Jamie's DropBox)
These articles originally published in the American Bee Journal.

Note: These PDF files may take several seconds to download...   patience!

See Jaime's Curriculum Vitae

1. Introduction
2. Why Keep Bees?
3. The Langstroth Hive
4. Personal Protective Equipment
5. The Hive Tool and Smoker
6. Miscellaneous Beekeeping Equipment
7. Informational Resources for Beekeepers
8. Know Why You are Keeping Bees
9. Choosing the Right Location for Your Apiary
10. Hive Choice and Configuration
11. Assembling Wooden Supers
12. Assembling Wooden Frames
13. Acquiring Bees and Queens
14. Stocks of Bees in the United States
15. The Basic Startup Costs Associated With Keeping Bees
16. Installing Packages and Hiving Nucs
17. Inspecting Your Newly Installed Colonies for the First Time
18. The Members of a Honey Bee Colony
19. The Components of a Honey Bee Nest
20. The External Anatomy of the Honey Bee
21. The Internal Anatomy of the Honey Bee
22. The Tasks of a Worker Honey Bee
23. Swarms
24. Mating Biology of Honey Bees
25. The Honey Bee Sting
26. Colony Level Thermoregulation and the Honey Bee Dance Language
27. Honey Bee Colonies as Superorganisms: The Hive or the Honey Bee
28. An Overview of Honey Bee Biology
29. Mitigating the Potential Threat Your Bees and Beekeeping Activities Pose to Other People
30. Beekeeping Rules and Regulations
31. Biotic Stressors of Honey Bee Colonies
32. Other Stressors of Honey Bee Colonies
33. Ways of Generating Income With Honey Bees
34. Basic Equipment Needed to Extract and Bottle Honey
35. The Time Commitment Associated with Keeping Bees
36. Reasons for Colony Losses: The Big Three (and One Ugly Cousin)
37. Honey Bee Development
38. Now That You Are a Beekeeper...
39. Conducting a Hive Inspection
40. The Indispensable Nuc
41. What To Get Your Beekeeper for Christmas


The Perfect Bee is a commercial beekeeping company that sells beekeeping equipment and lessons.  They also offer a free introductory beekeeping course in the form of 40 emails.  To sign up for the course go to Perfect Bee Introductory Beekeeping Course .  Below is a sample from Paul Mikkilsen's website which is a useful source of beekeeping information.     

Perfect Bee

  Browse at www.perfectbee.com
Save at www.perfectbee.com/store
Learn at www.perfectbee.com/course
Higher learning at PerfectBee Academy
Like at www.facebook.com/perfectbee
View at www.pinterest.com/perfectbee
Join at www.perfectbee.com/colony-membership

  1. LEARN ABOUT BEES
1.1 The Science of Bees
  • 1.1-01. Why bees rock!
  • 1.1-02. The Incredible Diversity of Bees
  • 1.1-03. How Honey Bees Reproduce
  • 1.1-04. Exploring the Process of Pollination
  • 1.1-05. The Secrets of Honeycomb
  • 1.1-06. Why bees can’t fly
  • 1.1-07. The Anatomy of Bees
  • 1.1-08. Honey Bee Genetics
  • 1.1-09. The Honey Bee Life Cycle
  • 1.1-10. How bees use pheromones
  • 1.1-11. The Common Races of Honey Bees
  • The Science of Bees Overview
  • The Benefits of Bees
  • The Types of Bees


  • 1.2 The Life of Bees
  • 1.2-01. How Bees Sense and React to Their World
  • 1.2-02. Inside and Out of the Beehive
  • 1.2-03. Why and How Bees Forage
  • 1.2-04. How Do Bees Make Honey?
  • 1.2-05. Why and How Bees Swarm
  • 1.2-06. The Role of the Drone Bee
  • 1.2-07. The Role of the Queen Bee
  • 1.2-08. The Role of the Worker Bee
  • 1.2-09. Sticking with Propolis
  • 2.1-10. Understanding The Honey Flow
  • 2.1-11. Fat Bees and the Winter Cluster


  • 1.3 About Beekeeping
  • 3.1-01. Beekeeping with Kids
  • 3.1-02. Finding Beekeeping Clubs and Mentors
  • 3.1-03. Top Beekeeping Books For Your Bookshelf
  • 3.1-04. The Philosophy of Natural Beekeeping
  • 3.1-05. The Growth of Urban Beekeeping
  • 1.3-06. Understanding Bee Stings
  • 1.3-07. Beekeeping and the neighbors
  • Learn About Bees: Stage Summary
  • A potted history of beekeeping
  • Is Beekeeping Right For You
  • Inside and Out of the Beehive
  • How Bees Sense and React to Their World


  • 2. YOUR BEEHIVE
    2.1 Beehive and Accessories
  • 2.1-01. A Practical Guide to Starting in Beekeeping
  • 2.1-02. What Bees Need
  • 2.1-03. What Beekeepers Need
  • 2.1-04. The Common Types of Beehives
  • 2.1-05. The Practicalities of Setting Up a Beehive
  • 2.1-06. A Look at the Langstroth Beehive
  • 2.1-07. A Detailed Look at the Warre Beehive
  • 2.1-08. A Detailed Look at the Top Bar Beehive
  • 2.1-09. Foundation or Foundationless Beekeeping?
  • 2.1-10. A Detailed Look at Flow Hive
  • Why Have More Than One Beehive?
  • What is a slatted rack and why use one?


  • 2.2 Equipment and Clothing
  • 2.2-01. Beekeeping with a smoker
  • 2.2-02. Beekeeping equipment
  • 2.2-02. Beekeeping protective clothing overview
  • 2.2-03. Tools for beekeepers to consider
  • 2.2-04. Perspective on feeding bees
  • 2.2-04. Using feeders with your beehive
  • 2.2-05. Beekeeping and technology
  • Parts of a Beehive
  • Selecting The Right Beehive Components
  • 2.3 Starting Your Beehive
  • 2.3-01. Questions the new beekeeper should answer first
  • 2.3-02. Preparing and installing your beehive
  • 2.3-03. An overview of obtaining bees for a beehive
  • 2.3-04. Practical guidance for the new beekeeper
  • A Practical Guide to a Thriving Colony
  • 2.3-05. An introduction to the beehive inspection
  • 2.3-06. Beekeeping advocacy
  • 2.3-07. Involving family and friends in beekeeping
  • 2.3-08. Obtaining and installing a package of bees
  • 2.3-09. Obtaining and installing a nucleus colony
  • 2.3-10. An introduction to capturing and installing a swarm of bees
  • 2.3-11. An introduction to feeding bees
  • 2.3-12. Contrarian positions every new beekeeper should consider
  • 2.3-13. An introduction to the brood nest
  • 2.3-14. Tracking beehive progress and keeping records
  • 2.3-15. Beekeeping myths for the new beekeeper to question
  • Your Beehive : Stage Summary
  • When To Start a Beehive
  • Planning and purchasing your beehive
  • Buying bees
  • Where to place a beehive
  • What Bees Need To Thrive In Your Location
  • Purchasing and installing your bees


  • 3. A HEALTHY BEEHIVE
    3.1 Threat To Bees
  • 3.1-01. A Healthy Beehive: A Practical Guide to a Thriving Colony
  • 3.1-02. An Introduction to Colony Collapse Disorder
  • 3.1-04. The Threat of Robbing
  • 3.1-05. Small Hive Beetle and Bees
  • 3.1-06. From Tiny Mice to Big Bears
  • 3.1-07. The Threat of American and European Foulbrood
  • 3.1-08. An Introduction to Nosema and Chalkbrood
  • 3.1-09. An Introduction to Tracheal Mites
  • 3.1-10. The Threat of Varroa Mites: Part 1
  • 3.1-11. The Threat of Varroa Mites: Part 2
  • 3.1-03. The Main Threats To Bees
  • Threats To Bees Overview
  • A Practical Guide to a Thriving Colony


  • 3.2 Inspecting Your Beehive
  • 3.2-01. The Big Issues to Check at Every Inspection
  • 3.2-03. The Challenges of Cross Comb
  • An Introduction to Cross Comb
  • 3.2-04. Managing Hive Capacity
  • 3.2-05. A FAQ for the Committed New Beekeeper
  • 3.2-06. Learning From Deadout Inspections
  • 3.2-07. Queenlessness in Your Hive
  • 3,2-08. Why and When to Consider Requeening
  • 3.2-09. Inspecting and Understanding the Brood Pattern
  • 3.2-10. Splitting a Hive
  • 3.2-11. An Introduction to Queen Rearing: Part 1
  • 3.2-12. An Introduction to Queen Rearing: Part 2
  • 3.2-13. An Introduction to Overwintering Honey Bees
  • 3.2-14. Moving a Hive
  • Recognizing and Avoiding Swarms


  • 3.3 Reaping The Rewards
  • 3.3-01. The Tangible Rewards of Beekeeping
  • 3.3-02. From the End of a Course to the Start of Beekeeping
  • 3.3-03. An Introduction to Harvesting Honey: Part 1
  • 3.3-04. An Introduction to Harvesting Honey: Part 2
  • 3.3-05. An Introduction to Extracting Beeswax
  • 3.3-06. Making Money from Beekeeping


  • Certificate in Beekeeping
    This is a fairly complete beginners beekeeping course from the Indira Ghandi National Open University.  The course focuses on beekeeping in India with an awareness of the preference for the more productive introduced European honey bee.  The course covers subjects like bee biology, beekeeping history, bee flora and pollination, seasonal management, pests and diseases, hive products and the economics of beekeeping.  The course is accompanied by several manuals available to view or be downloaded from the University website. 


    North of 60 Beekeeping  For beekepers in the extreme north (Yukon, N.W.T. and Alaska).  This website is a good source of beekeeping information specific to northern latitudes.  They include an education section which covers all the basics from a northern perspective:  Bee Biology Basics, Getting Started, Northern Basics, Bee Yard Setup Basics, Nuc Install, Hive Inspection Basics, Disease and Pests, Northern Forage, Honey Harvest and Fall and Winter Preparation.  Their facebook group.




    Beginner Beekeeping Short Course from the Virginia Cooperative Extension.
    The PlanBee Beekeeping Training Course (Europe)
    Plan BEE aims at the development of an apiculture training game for adults supporting the development of beekeeping. The Plan BEE serious game will serve as single information point that guides potential beekeepers on how to start a lucrative business depending on their own needs and background by diminishing risks related to traditional beekeeping. At the same time, the project aims at increasing the bee population in the wild by promoting apiculture.



    Beekeeping Tests

    The legendary master beekeeper Dana Stahlman has an online course which is being worked on at present but he has a test for the beginner, advanced and master beekeeper which are useful tools.  Check it out at Gobeekeeping.



    Beekeeping in West Virginia  Beekeeping in West Virginia began with individuals keeping bees in log hives often called gums. Some bees were managed in hives made out of rough sawed lumber and they were called box hives. Records show that these honeybee colonies produced from 14 to 24 pounds of honey on average each year.
    Beekeeping in the Phillipines
    Biosecurity Manual for the Honey Bee Industry (Australian Government)
    Best Management Practices for Beekeeping (Australian Government)
    Asian Honey Bee Manual (Australian Government)
    Easy Beekeeping for Hobbyists in New Zealand by Tudor Caradoc-Davies






    1. Digestive and excretory systems.
    2. Circulatory, respiratory, and nervous systems.
    3. Endocrine system.
    4. Reproductive organs.



    This video, "Biology of the Honey Bee" is presented by Dr. Jamie Ellis, Professor of Entomology from the University of Florida. 

    Videos
    Bee Biology with Larrry Connor from Wicas Press
    The Biology of Wintering Bees by Medhat Nasr, Provincial Apiarist, Alberta, Canada












    Western Honey Bee Subspecies   The European Honey bee or Western Honey Bee (Apis Mellifera) is a species of honey bee.  The genus Apis is Latin for "Bee" and mellifera comes from the Latin meli meaning "honey" and ferre meaning "to bear".  Hence the scientific name means "honey-bearing bee".  The name was coined in 1758 by Carolus Linnaeus who, realizing that bees do not bear honey, but nectar, tried later to correct it to Apis Mellifica (honey-making bee) in a subsequent publication.  However, according to the rules of synonymy in zoological nomenclature the older name has precedence.  
    Hobby beekeeping in the city of Vancouver
    Useful Beekeeping Websites
    Beekeeping Glossary
    Glossary of terms use in Beekeeping
    Flow Frame Instructional Manual
    Keeping a hive at someone's home written agreement
    Honey and Infant Botulism by John Durkacz (S.B.A.)
    Honey Bee Sting Pain Study by Michael Smith (Cornell University)
    Normal and allergic reactions to insect stings
    Odds of death by stings


    Informative Beekeeping Websites:
    Dave Cushman's website
    Scientific Beekeeping (Randy Oliver)
    Michael Bush's website
    Bee Informed
    Ohio State Beekeepers
    Cooperative Extension
    Virginia Cooperative Extension
    Beesource
    Better Bee












    It's important to have a purpose/s when inspecting a hive.  Why are you inspecting and what are you looking for?  An argument can be made that new beekeepers can only improve their skills by regular weekly inspections but the disruption to the colony is real and should be minimized.  A beekeeper can learn a great deal by observing the entrance to the hive.  The book "At the Hive Entrance"  explains the value of being able to calculate a hive health by observing the outside of the hive.  In this video Paul Kelly, research and apiary manager (University of Guelph, Canada), shows how to open a bee hive and in the following video he will describe what you are looking for.


    A list of frequently asked questions on the University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre website.  These videos are from University of Guelph's video series which can be found in the video series section of our Library. 


    The Hive Inspection - What are you looking for 
    and what do you see? 
    "OUTSIDE OF THE HIVE  • What is the level of activity of the colony at the entrance of the hive?  • How does the activity compare to that of other colonies in the bee yard?  • Are the bees “bearding” (festooning) and what does that behavior mean?  • Is there any indication of robbing behavior?  • Are the bees bringing in pollen? What does that mean?  FESTOONING Hanging out on the front of a hive. Just cooling off on the front porch on a hot summer day. Don’t confuse this with swarming or robbing behavior. ROBBING BEHAVIOR Bees are all over a hive and can be on all sides. Flight patterns are erratic and frenzied. Installing entrance reducers may help to mitigate robbing behavior.... " INSIDE THE HIVE  Checking for adequate stores, queenright, pests, parasites and diseases.     Prepared and presented by Bill Evans, Master Beekeeper, Rose Hill Farm, LLC, Jemison, Alabama. 

                                                          Brood cell types

    Hive Inspection Guide and Checklist   "To have healthy, strong, honey producing hives, beekeepers must make inspections to know the conditions inside the hive. Hive inspection is simply a term to describe:  Taking the hive apart and making observations, then deciding what needs to be done, based upon those observations.  There are a number of things we need to look for when we inspect a bee hive. An inspection sheet helps keep things organized and allows easy comparison from one inspection to the next.  Experienced beekeepers may find this check list too detailed, but that’s really the point. It helps keep beginners and forgetful old folks like me from overlooking something important.
    APPROACH the hive from behind or from the side. As much as possible, stay out the bees’ line
    of flight. The rule of thumb is to smoke the bees a little and smoke them often. Give them 2 or 3
    puffs of smoke in the entrance and under the lid before opening the hive. After that, giving them
    1 or 2 puffs of smoke across the frames before you remove each frame will usually keep them
    calm. Smoke under each box before removing it. If the bees get aggressive, put a LOT of smoke
    in the air. This will mask the alarm scent and some of the bees will seek shelter inside the hive..."
     Jerry Freeman, Ashley County Beekeepers Association, Arkansas.

    September Inspection, Menifee County, Kentucky. 
    An inspection sheet helps keep things organized and allows easy comparison from one inspection to the next.  It helps keep new beginners from overlooking something important.  I encourage you to use one of these or one of the many available apps.  As you become more experienced you will make up your own checklist that suits your needs.  There are many apps and software programs for tracking your hives like Hive TracksBeeCloud and Beetight.



    Inspect a Colony with Project Apis m Executive Director, Danielle Downey



    The BeeMD is a useful tool to help identify issues a beekeeper may find during an inspection.  "The BeeMD is a diagnostic tool to help beekeepers identify honey bee health issues. The BeeMD will be used in multiple modalities including computers and handheld devices such as tablets and smart phones. The information on The BeeMD will be continually evolving and updated as science and technology add new information to the ability to diagnose and understand hive health."  The BeeMD originated as a project of the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign (NAPPC) with funding from the USDA APHIS, the Rust Foundation, the Pollinator Partnership and the University of Delaware. The founding team included the University of Maryland, Jamie Ellis from The University of Florida, the American Beekeeping Federation, and the Pollinator Partnership.


    Finding the Queen - It's important that new beekeepers know you don't have to find your queen each inspection. You can observe the state of her health and performance by the brood pattern and the presence of all ages of brood from egg to capped. 
    From Bee Health Honey Bee Development

    However, finding the queen is a necessary skill you will eventually have to develop.  
    • The more your eyes get used to landing on the queen, the faster you will be able to find her during hive inspections.
    • The queen will often be moving, but training yourself to recognize her on still pictures will still make you better at locating her.                                                                  • She is often easier to see when she is moving. She is much larger than workers and when she moves quickly she leaves a wake of workers in her path.                               • If she is laying, or not running from you, her movement is usually slow and graceful with a noticeable retinue of attendants as seen in many of these images.
    • Move from slide to slide, and see how fast you can find her. Some are very easy. Others are more of a challenge.
    • She is often easier to see when she is moving. She is much larger than workers and when she moves quickly she leavesa wake of workers in her path.
    • If she is laying, or not running from you, her movement isusually slow and graceful with a noticeable retinue of
    attendants as seen in many of these images.
    • Move from slide to slide, and see how fast you can find her. Some are very easy. Others are more of a challenge.

    Queenspotting Like a Pro - How to Spot the Queen Every Time from Beekeeping Made Simple


















    The advantages of using Nucs (University of Florida)  Nucleus colonies, commonly called “nucs”, are smaller versions of full-size Langstroth colonies. They usu-ally have the same length and depth dimensions as full-size colonies, but nucs are not as wide. As such, nucs may hold 3-5 frames compared to the 8-10 frames typically held by a full size colony. A second type of nuc, commonly called a “baby nuc” or “queen mating nuc”, exists but is smaller than full-size colonies in every dimension and is used primarily for queen bee production. Queen mating nucs will not be discussed in this document. Rather, we will focus on five-frame nucs exclusively, although three- and four-frame nucs can be used and managed almost identically.



    Nuc vs Package Bee Comparson (A 6 video series from Beekeeping University)


    Package vs Nuc Challenge (A video series from Kamon Reynolds)












    Swarm Control

                Swarm Intelligence with Tom Seeley


         Swarm Control: University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre

    The main thrust of Checkerboarding is to break up the overhead band of capped honey maintained by the colony through the swarm preparation season. (The literature refers to the band of honey or nectar as causing a “honey bound” condition.) In the undisturbed colony, it is capped honey. In the colony reversed in the early season, the band is rebuilt with nectar. Maintenance of the band is deliberate addition of empty comb above the band is often ignored, and swarm preparations continue below the band – which Walt calls the “reserve”. He says that the reserve is maintained through the swarm prep period to offset forage drop – outs or bad weather during swarm preps.



    Swarm Catching
    Swarm Traps: What you need to know to be successful (Brown's Beef and Bees)









    (Beaverlodge Research Farm, Alberta, Canada) In nature bees have two general methods for maintaining colony temperatures in winter: 1) selecting a protected and well-suited cavity (Tab. 1) and 2) clustering.  Clusters have a two-part structure (Fig. 1): 1) a dense outer mantle in which bees jam together, orienting their heads towards the center of the cluster and 2) a loose inner core where bees are free to move. The mantle insulates and, at its tightest, approaches the insulation of bird feathers or mammal fur (0.1 W/kg/ºC). Clusters move slowly from empty combs to ones full of honey. This movement is typically upwards and sideways, never downwards. Before we go on, here are four critical temperatures you should know: 1) brood nest = 32-36ºC, 2) minimum thorax temperature needed for flight = 27ºC, 3) minimum temperature needed to pump flight muscles and warm up (analogous to mammal “shivering”) = 18ºCand 4) below which bees go into a “chill coma” = 6ºC.
      


    Winter check with Jorik, from Hudson Valley Bee Supply in Kingston, New York. 

    Indoor Wintering Highlights (Research Station, Beaverlodge, Alberta) Remotely Controlled Bee Wintering Building (Latvia University)


    Adding Sugar Bricks to Beehives in Newfoundland (Mudsongs making no-cook sugar bricks)


    Indoor Storage of Honey Bee Colonies in the United States   It is important to consider the purpose and/or motivation for the use of indoor storage as part of the overall management strategy of each unique
    operation. The following statements might have made for a good title for this publication and reflect underlying principles for the recommendations found herein. These sayings have become something of a mantra from beekeepers with experience in managing indoor storage.“You get out what you put in” “Garbage in, garbage out” “Storages are not hospitals” Indoor storage is not a cure-all and they are not suitable for all operations. All the work and preparation in the month leading up to the storage period are critical. This document is intended to be a starting block to be built up and create a central repository of knowledge on the practice of indoor honey bee storage and the management surrounding storing bees in buildings. The following sections are the initial collection of invited contributions from individuals with experience from different aspects related to indoor storage. We expect to learn more and openly invite additional collaborators to add to this work - watch for an online resource coming soon. Following this introduction is - The “Ins” and “Outs”. A section intended
    to cover the preparation of colonies before they go into storage and some precautions and advise for treatment of colonies when they get out of storage. This is mainly composed of advice gathered from commercial operations who have been storing bees indoors.


    Indoor storage of honey bee colonies for winter is not a new idea, but it is rapidly becoming a more widely-used practice, with many potential benefits to explore.
    This virtual conference is presented by Project Apis m., The Almond Board of California, and Washington State University. Resources and content in this video include Researcher talks about the latest science and results, panel discussions with Researchers, Commercial Beekeepers, and an HVAC specialist, and virtual tours and informative videos.

    Chapter Links Below:

    0:00 - Introduction of Day 1 with Danielle Downey, Project Apis m. 
    7:51 - Research Talk: Population Dynamics and Biology of Colonies Overwintered in Storage with Dr. Gloria DeGrandi-Hoffman, USDA-ARS 
    0:58:33 - Mini Documentary Part 1:  Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: Tour of Buildings and HVAC Systems
    1:13:18 - Mini Documentary Part 2:  Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: Preparing Bees for Indoor Storage
    1:24:42 - Day 1 Panel Discussion "Indoor Storage Today" with Buzz Landon, Dr. Brandon Hopkins, Dr. Gloria DeGrandi-Hoffmann, Nick Noyes, and Bryan Ashurst
    2:38:37 - Introduction of Day 2 with Dr. Josette Lewis, Almond Board of Califorina
    2:42:30 - Research Talk: Research Updates from Washington State University, with Dr. Brandon Hopkins
    3:54:03 - Resources for Non-Commercial Beekeepers, with Dr. Kelly Kulhanek 
    3:57:33 - Mini Documentary Part 3:  Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: Putting Bees into Storage
    4:07:10 - Mini Documentary Part 4:  Indoor Storage of Honey Bees: During and After Storage 
    4:17:02 - Day 2 Panel Discussion "Best Practices and HVAC Considerations" with Nick Noyes, Anthony Molitor, Dr. Brandon Hopkins, and Jason Miller


    For those beekeeping in the extreme north (Yukon, NWT and Alaska) a good source of information is North of 60 Beekeeping.  
    Our goals are:
    To develop a better understanding of Beekeeping in Extreme Northern Climates (Yukon, NWT and Alaska)
    •Best Practices – How can we improve yields and winter survival of honeybees?
    •Best Forage for Success – What are the best native and non-native pollen and nectar sources in the different parts of the North?
    •Best Equipment to Use – What is the best equipment to use to here for our specific conditions?
    To develop North of 60 beekeeping knowledge for all levels
    To introduce beekeeping to more people in the North (more data and experiences to learn from and share)
    •Save money by not making the same mistakes we made
    •Ability to run successful beekeeping businesses
    •Pooling and sharing resources, skills and tools to reduce some costs (OAV Vapourizer, Extractors, Books, etc...)
    •To educate beekeepers on diseases and pest that could have a large impact on the viability of keeping bees in the North   Facebook group
    Abstract: A bee colony in a hive will undergo a wide variety of heating and cooling events related to weather and due to internal hive biological processes (e.g. brood rearing) where they will be required “control” thermoregulate their internal environment. Our job as beekeepers is to understand these requirements and provide them with the best “homes” possible for them to succeed. In this presentation I will explore the use of simple.  Temperature and Humidity data (in/out of the hive), basic geometry and basic thermodynamic principles to illustrate what goes on in the hive during very cold winters (0C to -46C). I will look to find practical implications/approaches and concepts that beekeeperscan use to improve their wintering performance and make the bees more comfortable during very cold winters.



    The "Biology of Wintering Bees" by Medhat Nasr, Provincial Apiarist, Alberta, Canada.

    Winter Management Webinars









    Hives

    Beehive construction (B.C. Government) - Most beekeepers will assemble pre-cut beehive equipment at some time.  Others go farther by manufacturing their own equipment.  In either case, it is important to use standard dimensions and assembly methods to ensure that the equipment will be interchangeable, strong and durable.  This publication offers dimensions and designs of individual hive parts, and a few assembly hints. In Canada, the Langstroth movable-frame hive has been adopted as the hive standard.  This hive design provides simplicity of construction and ease of manipulation, permitting rapid inspection and interchange of frames.  Well-constructed equipment pays off in ease of management, and retains its resale value.

    Beehive Construction Resource Websites

    - One of the best sources of beehive construction information I have found is Steve Tilmann of the Michigan Beekeepers Association.  His instructional written and video presentations are detailed and easy to understand.  A great contribution to the beekeeping community.   Michigan Beekeepers Association  Beekeepers Workshop Videos
    - Dave Cushman's drawings of National Bee Hive Component Parts. (UK)
    DIY Hive Construction Plans and Tools from UK Beekeeping Forum.
    Beesource Build it Yourself Section.   Plans     Forum
    - Plans for bee hive components from FreeWoodworkingPlan.com.
     


    Steve Tilmann's video on how to make hive bodies (8 frame medium) from the Beekeepers Workshop.  



    Observation Hives


    Parts
    Hive bodies take a lot of abuse and need to be con-structed accordingly.  Not only do they have to bear a lot of weight (up to 70 pounds, or more) for a super, but the bee-keeper will use their hive tool to twist and pry apart hive bodies after the bees glue everything together with propolis. Of all the hive components, hive bodies have the most differences in size.  There are four standard heights (referred to as “depth”) for hive bodes: deep, medium, shallow and  comb honey.  In addition there are three common widths: 10-frame, 8-frame and 5-frame.  We typically recommend to beekeepers just starting out to decide on one size hive body and then stick with it.  That way, all equipment is interchangeable.  Because a 10-frame deep super can be very heavy (70+ pounds), we suggest using 10-frame mediums (which usually top out around 35 pounds when full of honey).  The plans presented in this article are for 10-frame medium hive bodies, though tables on the cut list page provide dimensions for the other sizes.


    Nucs
    1. #8 Hardware cloth should be placed over the middle section of the bottom of the hive for ventilation. It is easiest to install if it is stapled on after the front, back and sides are assembled but before the bottom is attached.  2. A 9 3/4 x 9'' piece of corrugated plastic can be slid in the dados in the bottom pieces to block off the ventilation in cold weather.  3. The feet may be made of treated wood or other wood that resists rot to extend life.  4. To enable feeding the nuc a hole may be cut in the top to fit a quart jar or other suitable feeder. Screen may be placed on the inner side of the hole to prevent the bees from coming out when the feeder is replaced and a square of heavy plastic may be placed over the hole and attached by one screw or nail. This piece of plastic can be moved aside when feeding and moved over the hole when not feeding.
    5. When moving the nuc you need only close off the entrance with duct tape. The bees will have plenty of ventilation from the bottom screen.

    Frames


    Bottom Boards and Racks

    Feeders
    Give entire inside of feeder two coats of polyurethane or marine varnish.  Pour molten wax onto all inside seams.  Attach hardware cloth to top of boards "A" with staples (Beesource.com).


    Pollen Traps

    Queens

    Vacuum

    Parts for Pests

    Winter Protection
    Insulated Moisture Quilt
    Ventilation/Insulation Box


    Transporting
    English translation: The large bicycle tires (57-406, 20 x 2, 125) give the sack barrow a particularly good ride suitability in uneven terrain. The wide wheelbase provides a good grip against slip of the Hives. The Prey truck for hives to max. 46 cm width. If your hives be wider than 46 cm, is only an adaptation of Pos. 1 and 2 (see Plan A) to the desired width make. The construction of the prey truck based on both a comfortable posture and on the great usability with secure stand against overturning. 

    Heating and Ventilating


    Elephants

    Bears
    A Starter's Guide for using Electric Fencing to Deter Bears by K. Annis (M.F.W.P Bear Specialist)
    A properly constructed electric fence is safe for people and pets  and has proven to be effective at deterring bears from apiaries (beehives), fruit trees, gardens, livestock pens, rabbit hutches, garbage containers, dog kennels, chicken coups, compost piles, storage sheds, along with numerous other uses. There is an abundant variety of applications and effective fencing designs for deterring bears. Design, construction and proper maintenance will determine the effectiveness of your electric fence. Safety is always a concern when using electrified equipment. Modern electric fence energizers have been shown to be safe for humans, animals and vegetation. The pulse rate of a modern energizer is so quick that they cannot generate enough heat to start vegetation on fire. While touching an electrified fence is unpleasant, modern energizers are safe to use around pets and children.




    Honey Extraction
    The bicycle wheel extractor begins with a bike.  The frame cage is made of the bicycle rims, with the spokes serving to hold the frames in place.  Which bike you want is based on your drum and your frames.  Not all bike wheels are created equal, primarily because of the spoke design.  For the western supers I use, I discovered that the front wheels of some sixteen inch bicycles would fit nicely, while the rear wheel and some other spoke patterns wouldn’t allow western frames (but did allow true shallow frames).  The way that I discovered this involved my daughter’s bike.  “You don’t need a wrench to put on streamers,” she said.  Her bike wasn’t right anyway.  I didn’t want to buy two bikes just to sacrifice the front wheel, so tape measure in hand I descended on yard sales and thrift shops, carrying a western frame along for a “test fit”...

    Hive Care


    Beehive Construction Resource Websites

    - A great collection of plans and videos from Steve Tilmann and the Michigan Beekeepers Association.   Michigan Beekeepers Association    Beekeepers Workshop Videos
    - Dave Cushman's drawings of National Bee Hive Component Parts. (UK)
    DIY Hive Construction Plans and Tools from UK Beekeeping Forum.
    Beesource Build it Yourself Section.   Plans     Forum
    - Plans for bee hive components from FreeWoodworkingPlan.com.








    Fat Bees Skinny Bees - a manual on honey bee nutrition for beekeepers by Doug Somerville (Australian Government). This publication provides information on the known essential chemical requirements of  honey bees including the components of nectar and pollen.  Pollens with a protein level  around 25% or greater have been recognised as excellent quality pollens, those less  than 20% have been described as of a poor quality. Australia has had more pollens  analysed than any other country, and for the first time all of the profiles of the analysis  are presented, representing 183 species.  There is some evidence that pollens from the  same genus, i.e., closely related plants, exhibit similar nutritional values in regards to  pollen chemical composition. Lack of nectar or stored honey presents the beekeeper with various sets of problems. These scenarios are discussed with the most appropriate course of action. Likewise, lack of pollen or poor quality pollen creates its own set of problems, often exacerbated by the stimulus of a nectar flow. How to recognise the need to provide pollen supplement and the circumstances which may lead a beekeeper to invest in this practice are discussed. Some facts about honey bee nutrition include; nectar flows stimulate hygienic behaviour; total protein intake is what should be considered, not so much the individual chemical properties of individual pollens; fats in pollen act as strong attractants to foraging bees, although increasing concentrations in pollen limit brood rearing; vitamins are very unstable and deteriorate in stored pollen; principal cause of winter losses is starvation, not cold...

    Honey Bee Nutrition by Eric Mussen (UC Davis)
    Honey Bee Nutrition by Zachery Huang (Michigan State U.)
    Honey Bee Nutrition - Review of Research and Practices by J. Black (Australian Government)
    Honey (not sugar) constituents up-regulate immunity and detoxification genes in Honey Bees (University of Illinois) 
    The Benefits of Pollen to Honey Bees (University of Florida)
    Considerations in Selecting Sugars for feeding to Honey Bees by R. Barker (U.S.D.A)
    Feeding Bees Pollen Substitute by Dr. E. Mussen (UC Davis)
    Honey Substitution Chart for Feeding Bees (National Honey Board)
    Nutrition Section of Scientific Beekeeping (Randy Oliver) which includes studies on a variety of topics like light or heavy syrup?; probiotics; beebread; pollen substitutes and more. 

    Recipes

    Bee Feeding Recipes by Cass Cohenour
    Recipe for a Pollen Substitute (Scottish Beekeepers Association)



    Pollen Substitute Patties by DC Honeybees





    Adding Sugar Bricks to Beehives from Mud Songs.


    Feeders


    Feeder Types from Brushy Mt Bee Farm.


    Give entire inside of feeder two coats of polyurethane or marine varnish.  Pour molten wax onto all inside seams.  Attach hardware cloth to top of boards "A" with staples (Beesource.com).





    Winter Preparation for Vancouver Beekeepers



          It's September and time for Vancouver beekeepers to prepare for winter.  Actually winter preparation is an ongoing task (Beekeeping Calendar for B.C.).  The main reasons our bees die over the winter is starvation, colonies suffering from parasitic mite syndrome, too few bees to heat the cluster and moisture.  I complete my winter hive setup by the middle of October.  Much of what you do in preparation depends on your management style of beekeeping (virtually nothing for the extreme natural beekeeper to intense management for others).  This is a revised post from last year and are just a few suggestions based on my experience keeping bees in Vancouver.  Beekeeping is very location dependent so for those outside of Vancouver revise accordingly (Check out the Winter Management section of our library).
         Over the years my winter survival rate has improved.  Folks ask what is my secret and I tell them I never put to bed for winter a weak colony.  When I say above winter preparation is an ongoing task I mean addressing a weakness at it's infancy by treatment or requeening long before September.  Adding frames of bees to a weak colony now won't make it a strong colony just a more populated weak colony.  Some of the practices I use for winter preparation are 2x4 under rear of hive to allow drainage down the front and not on the cluster, R5 insulation under the outer cover to reduce condensation, candy board added at start of winter, insulate, tar paper and mite test board in place.  Once again this is location dependant and I'm sure others will find other practices that work well for them.  I completed a formic acid treatment in August and will possibly do another later in September (mite check).  I have screened (eighth inch) entrance reducers to allow for treatment during wasp predation season (unusual low yellowjacket population this year but fairly strong bald faced hornet presence - picking off bees at hive entrance).  We have the normal skunk scrapings at the hive entrances this year and a first for me, a pair of sparrows that spent most of the summer picking off bees at the hive entrances (feeding their young).  Pretty good honey production year despite the cold, wet spring and early summer. 

    Food    
         To address the food issue you will need about 10 deep frames or 15 medium frames of honey (65 lbs or 30 kgs) for an average sized colony to survive the winter.  In our specific location (Strathcona) we still have a good availability of nectar and pollen with many different plant species still in flower in our 4 acre garden and the surrounding area.  Due to global warming plants in Vancouver can begin to flower 2-3 weeks earlier than in the past so our forage shortage begins in mid September (the Goldenrod and common Aster are in bloom now).  The problem occurs when the temperatures are still warm and dry enough from mid September through mid October for the colony to stay active.  An active colony without a natural food source may consume much of the winter food supply.  I'm fortunate this year to have a good supply of honey frames from my stronger hives that I can share with my weaker hives. If the food reserves are low it's a good time to feed 2 to 1 syrup.  You can feed during formic acid treatment by adding the feed either before or when you add the formic pads.  You cannot open the hive during the treatment period.  This article "Feeding Bees in Winter" describes the different methods of feeding at different temperatures.  The girls will take a 2 to 1 syrup down to about 12 celsius (53 fahrenheit) after which they find it too difficult to dehydrate for storage.  Some beekeepers will feed syrup baggies on top of the frames in colder temperatures on the theory that heat from the cluster warms the syrup.  I've not tried this.   An issue with syrup feeding this time of year is making sure most of the syrup the bees store gets capped.  The uncapped syrup will become a source of winter moisture and mold.    
         To address our main foraging shortage which occurs from mid September to mid October I have separated the root balls of common Asian Asters for planting and transplanted the invasive Canadian Goldenrod (Aster).  When mature the common Asian Aster becomes a 1.5 by 1.5 metre (4 by 4 foot) bush with hundreds of flowers and can bloom well into October.  We have a few hundred autumn flowering variety Asters in our 4 acre garden.  Other late bloomers in our garden are Japanese Anemone, Mint, Autumn Joy Sedum, Scarlet Runner Bean, Jersulam Artichoke, and the invasive Japanese Knotweed  (Nectar Plants of British Columbia).  A mixed diet is beneficial for the girls so some other late blooming plants are Caryopteris 'Dark Knight' (Blue Mist Spirea), Dahlia, Hardy Fushia, Seven Sons flower (Autumn Lilac), Impatiens omeianan, Camellia sinensis (Hardy tea bush) and Osmanthus fragrans (Fragrant Olive) (Nutritional Value of Bee Collected Pollens and Pollen Sources).  I will avoid the temptation to plant the invasive late blooming ivy and Himalayan Balsam. 

    Goldenrod
    Aster
    It's good at this point to make sure you have your emergency winter feeders ready if you plan to use them. A major cause of colony death is late winter starvation (February - April) which can be solved by the use of an emergency winter feeder like this one from Beverly Bees (Candy Board).  During a prolonged cold spell bees may be unable to access honey on the other side of the box. A candy board directly above can be a lifesaver.  

    Candyboard
    They're easy to build with 1x4's and quarter or half inch wire mesh and can be a colony lifesaver.  You can quickly check on the feeders through the late winter to gauge the status of the food supply (Feeding Bees in Winter).  
         In the Greater Vancouver area there are some differences in winter food requirements based on available foraging days and available forage. Because of the  effect of the North Shore Mountains precipitation varies from 150+ inches (380 centimeters) annually at the upper altitudes of the mountains to 30 inches (75 centimeters) along the U.S. border.  This effect reduces precipitation and increases hours of sunlight as you move southward.  It can be sunny in the south and cloudy and rainy by the mountains.  An obvious benefit to late and early season foraging.  This is particularly beneficial in March and April when we have a lot of flowering plants available but marginal foraging weather.  The graph below divides Greater Vancouver into 9 zones with 9 being the upper altitudes of the North Shore Mountains and 1 being the southern region along the U.S. border (Greater Vancouver Precipitation).  As the crow flies this is a distance of less than 30 kilometers or 20 miles.


    Though active at lower temperatures I have found high population foraging in our apiary at 12 degrees celsius (53 fahrenheit) in March (Willow trees, Forsythia, Flowering Cherry).


    This means more flyable, foraging weather the further south you live and the more active the colony with the additional needed sunshine warming the hive and bees.  The activity of the bees is directly linked to the number of hours of sunlight on the hives.  For optimum colony health maximize the sun exposure on your hives (South to southeast exposure with minimal shade).  We moved our apiary because it was surrounded by fast growing Black Locust, Willow and Cottonwood trees (Great pollen and nectar sources).  Other than occasional bearding the hives didn't seem adversely affected by the extreme heat this summer (2021 - 40 celsius/ 100 fahrenheit).  * Update: Unfortunately we had 3 times the normal rainfall this September followed by temperatures 3-4 degrees cooler than normal in October decreasing the available foraging time.  Feeding may be essential for most.  Check your winter food supply.      
          Also effecting food availability and feeding in preparation for winter is whether you are in a rural agricultural or urban setting. The rural, agricultural areas in Surrey, Delta and the Fraser Valley tend to have extreme honey and brood production during crop blossoms but can suffer in the off season while the urban areas tend to have a more consistent food source availability throughout the foraging period (March - November) due to urban landscaping and irrigation.  
         The honey frames should be positioned on both sides of the cluster in the bottom box and above the cluster in the second super (super = hive box).  If the cluster is in an upper box it's recommended to switch the box to the bottom in preparation for winter.  In the spring you can reverse that process as the girls will have worked their way up to upper part of the second box.

    Winter cluster at the end of winter

          For a Kenyan Top Bar put the cluster at one end and the honey frames next to the cluster.  I've often run all deep supers in my Langstroth hives because universal boxes and frames are easier to manage.  I can add honey frames from my third or fourth box to the brood boxes to over winter.  Many new beekeepers and some old are moving towards all medium boxes because of the lighter weight.  This makes sense as a deep box of honey can weigh 80 lbs (36 kgs).
          All beekeepers have plus and negative food accumulation months and generally April 1 to Oct 1 are positive food accumulation months for us in Vancouver.  March and October can be neutral but are usually negative depending on the available foraging days (weather).  November through February are winter cluster, negative food accumulation months.
     
    Pest and Disease Control      
         Pest and disease identification and control should be an ongoing process and if you are beginning now it may be too late.  Evidence of chalk brood or nosema would indicate a weak colony (Honey Bee Diseases and Parasites).  Increased ventilation and removal of old comb can be done to combat the chalk brood and a pollen patty/fumagillin mixture may help combat the nosema.  Mite counts throughout the year and subsequent treatments should let you know whether you have a major issue.  Mite treatments like formic acid can continue into October as long as there is a day time high temp of 10c and although oxalic acid was traditionally done in December when there is little to no brood present (it does not effect mites in the brood) it is now a year round treatment option.  A mistake made by many beekeepers is to treat in August and with a large, healthy colony and assume everything is fine.  Continue mite tests and treatment through September.  If needed I will start my final formic acid treatment in the middle of September.  A reduced screened entrance using eighth inch hardware cloth can be used to allow for needed ventilation during formic acid treatments while providing a more easily defended (against wasps) reduced entrance.  I staple the eighth inch hardware cloth to the bottom board and first brood box.  I find this a necessity as the yellowjacket wasps are very aggressive starting in August.   
         The video below "Getting Your Hives Ready for Winter" is a recorded webinar with Kim Flottum (Bee expert and editor of Bee Culture magazine) which does a very good job of discussing winter preparation for bee colonies focusing on year around mite control.  Controlling mites goes a long way to controlling virus transmission and overall colony health.


     

    Cold and Moisture
          The U.S. Bee Informed Survey of wintering hives (the only large scale North American winter survival survey) showed that only 3 conditions determined winter survival success and they were adequate food, strong colonies (equalization or combining hives) and ventilation (moisture reduction).


    The survey is extensive and includes the results for geographic region, all types of pest and disease management, feeding and winter preparation.  The Bee Informed Survey 2016 - 2017


         Wrapping and insulation showed no benefit but I think that depends on where you live.  If you live in cold northern climates like Winterpeg either you wrap and insulate or you bring the girls inside. 40 below is 40 below.  While insulation is not traditionally necessary in Vancouver (we have a mild winter climate and rarely get much below freezing) I know some that do with good results.  Insulation could be counter productive by keeping the heat out and preventing the hive from warming up by the sun (Sun in Vancouver in winter?).  However,  insulation under the outer cover is effective at minimizing the temperature difference and resulting condensation between the outside and inner hive (With half inch R5 insulation no moisture and mold, without both).  Some local beekeepers wrap their hives with black roofing paper to prevent wind penetration and to help absorb the heat (Black objects absorb more heat).   It may be helpful but an argument against this is that the girls take care of  wind penetration with use of propolis and do we want a warmer hive in the winter?  Warmer means more active bees and more food consumption.  For us wrapping in March may be a good option as we have lots of blossoms (Willow, forsythia, flowering cherry, bulbs ...) but marginal foraging temperatures.  Wrapping would warm the hives and get the girls flying earlier in the day increasing their pollen and nectar intake and stimulate egg laying.  This winter with a prolonged forecast of -12 Celsius (10 Fahrenheit) I insulated and wrapped the hives.  Over the 2 week period we had cold temps and high winds.  Sunny and 6 Celsius (43 Fahrenheit) today I checked the hives and all were well and active with lots of cleansing flights (poop breaks) and house cleaning (removing dead bees).  One particularly strong 8 frame cluster came to greet me in an unfriendly manner when I added the candy board.     

    Temperature difference on black and white surface
         
         Wintering your bees is like real estate value in that the 3 most important considerations are location, location and location.  Location dictates the methods you will use to protect your bees from the elements. Windbreaks are essential in some areas where there are cold, winter winds, especially for rooftop beekeepers.  In winter Vancouver has a predominant, low pressure weather pattern with winds from the southeast that bring with it fairly constant cool, wet weather.  We have only a few snow falls per year and a few weeks of freezing temperatures.  Therefore moisture, not cold is our biggest issue.  The moisture is created when warm air created by the cluster of bees rises and contacts the cold inner cover creating cold condensation which drips onto the cluster.  There are a lot of different methods to reduce moisture in the hive from dripping on the cluster like tilting the hive forward by putting a 2x4 under the back of the hive to allow the moisture to run down the front of the hive and not on the cluster and/or as mentioned above insulating under the outer cover.  Another option is an Insulated Moisture Quilt placed above the hive boxes to reduce cold condensation dripping on the winter cluster.
    The bee hive in winter without any form of moisture reduction

    Insulated Moisture Quilt

         The heat produced by the cluster rises to contact the warmer insulated cover producing less condensation, which then drips onto the wood chips (not the bees) which are dried by the vent holes.  They are easy to make out of scrap material and the link above provides detailed building instructions.  
         During winter you must have an upper entrance in your Langstroth hive for ventilation and because dead bees or snow can block the lower entrance. For moisture reduction in a Kenyan Top Bar Hive beekeepers can use an insulated moisture quilt, carpet over the top bars (Bill Stagg's method) or reflective insulation (Sam Comfort's method).  Whether you leave your screened bottom board open or not (for increased ventilation) is debatable but if left open you must block the drafts from blowing under the hive.  I put the mite test board in to block the winter winds but have friends who do not and successfully overwinter their bees.  
         In Vancouver we get at least 2 major storms a year of 80+ km winds (50 miles per hr).  For this reason and the presence of skunks and racoons we use cinder blocks (ratchet straps are another option) on our hives to prevent the outer cover from blowing off or being removed and have positioned the hives to have a natural wind break (berm to the south).  A wind break is particularly important for roof top beekeepers.  Though not necessary some of us use pieces of plexiglass extending 4+ inches over our outer covers to provide additional weather protection and extend the life of our beekeeping equipment.

     Winter Hive

      
     
    Wasps
          With the decrease in available forage robbing and wasp attacks become a real concern starting in August so guard bees will become more defensive and in the wild the colony may reduce the size of the entrance with propolis and wax.  The beekeeper can assist by reducing the entrance to as small as 1.5 centimeters or a half inch to make it easier to defend (weaker colonies).  In Vancouver wasps have been more aggressive, longer into the winter over the last few years.  I received a swarm call recently in December.  There had been a few hard frosts so out of interest (knowing it wasn't a swarm)  I went to see a very active paper yellowjacket nest in an unheated crawl space.  The Yellowjacket wasps and to a lesser degree Bald Faced Hornets are usually aggressive in our apiary starting in August, attempting to enter hives and picking off stray bees at the entrance.  This year I used eigth inch cloth as an entrance reducer to allow for mite treatment.  This blocks potential wasp intrusion and robbing by other bees if you are feeding and still allows ventilation. The girls are better able to defend the reduced single entrance.  Wasps will stay active at cooler temperatures than your bees so when the girls are in cluster the wasps may enter the hive.  I don't indiscriminately kill wasps (I've identified 9 different types in our garden including a parasitic wasp in my blue mason and leaf cutter bee cocoons) but have found them increasingly aggressive towards our colonies for a longer period of time in the fall (last year until December).  I've found the pheremone lure variety wasp trap to be very effective on our greatest threat which are the common Yellowjacket wasps (does not attract Bald Faced Hornets).  This lure trap can also be used in the spring to kill the emerging wasp queens.  The Rescue brand lure variety works well but the bait only lasts for about 5 days so can be expensive.

    Wasp trap
    You can also make your own wasp trap.  Here is a study from the University of Athens showing the effectiveness of 3 different types of traps (Wasp Traps).  Maybe the easiest and most popular is the pop bottle trap.  We have a number of these out now with a 50/50 mixture of sugar and water and a capfull of vinegar poured in the entrance to keep the bees away.  They have worked well but you need to add a capfull of vinegar occasionally to dissuade the bees.  Here is a study from the University of California on the effectiveness of different baits (Baits for the Control of Yellowjackets).  I've not had much success with fish or meat baits  later in the summer.  These protein baits are successful earlier in the season when the wasps are feeding their brood.  Wasps prefer a sugar and water bait at this time of year.  For more information on wasps go to the Wasp section of our Beekeeping Library.


      If wasp attacks or robbing persists and they gain access to your hive you can use a robber screen which are easy to make.

         Due to the homeless camp next to our hives last year we had a noticeable increase in our ground tunneling rat population this year which I believe resulted in a decrease in ground nesting yellowjacket wasps.  Charles Darwin and his children studied ground nesting bumble bees and found that the population of bumble bees was dependant on old maids who kept cats who killed the rats allowing for greater bumble bee ground nesting success.  We don't have any cats though this summer a pair of Sharp-shinned hawks moved in to help with the over population of rats.     


    Equalization, Combining Colonies or Requeening     
          It is recommended that new beekeepers have 2 hives rather than 1 because inevitably one will be stronger than the other.  This allows you to strengthen the weaker hive with bees from the stronger colony (Equalization of Bee Colonies Strength by Khalil Hamdan) or to split the stronger hive if you lose the weaker colony.  Though this can be done in the spring it can also be done in preparation for winter by adding 2-3 frames of bees and brood as needed.  However, if you have a weak colony it's likely you have a sick colony or weak queen which would suggest treatment and/or requeening. You can also combine the weaker colony with a stronger one using the newspaper method (Uniting Honey Bees by David Cushman).  Although some will insist it imperative to kill the weaker queen others like the late, great David Cushman suggest that it is not necessary: "Many texts will tell you to kill the least desirable queen in one of the two groups to be united, but I find it is often prudent to leave both queens, so that the bees can make the choice, in most cases the younger and fitter queen remains, but there may be subtle things in a queen's make up that the bees are better able to make choices about rather than the beekeeper (David Cushman)." 
        

    The newspaper method of combining hives

         In October most beekeepers reduce their Langstroth hives to 2 deep supers (3 mediums) and Kenyan Top Bar hives are reduced by moving your follower board or your false backs forward (Winterizing your Top Bar Hive).  Queen excluders should be removed so the queen can move with the cluster as it moves upward

    Mice    
          Though still mild it's time to think of mice which like to winter in the hives. There are a hundred different varieties of mouse proof entrances from quarter inch screened mesh, drilled metal sheet to simple nails minimizing the entrance.  The mice can get through a fairly small area and will chew through wood.  I use a simple wood entrance reducer with a nail reducing the entrance to just over the width of a bee.  This allows for the removal of dead bees which the girls do as part of winter house cleaning.  If you find the mice chewing on the entrance reducer you can wrap it in wire mesh.  Here is an easy step by step guide to making a mouse guard from Brooksfield Farm just south of us near Mt. Baker.

    Difficult house cleaning
    Wire mesh mouse proof entrance reducer
          
         For more information on wintering your colonies check out the recorded webinars by Kim Flottum, "Getting your hives ready for winter" or "Putting the hive to bed for winter".  You may also want to check out The Biology and Management of Colonies in Winter , Winterization Guide for Beekeeping , The Thermology of Wintering Honey Bee Colonies or Wrapping a Honey Bee Colony with Tar Paper  from the "Winter Management" section of the Beekeepers' Library.  Good luck to you and your bees and stay dry.